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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: bgcameron on June 19, 2020, 01:46:29 PM
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I am on the lookout for an OEM "comfort" seat for my '90 K75S. My understanding is that part number 52532309388 will fit the bike. When I search for pictures of this seat, I see that it has a molded plastic pan like this:
(https://fotobucket.site/uploads/bd77799f53aace847f2a24461bb46c686ca7b828.jpg)
I have found a seat in the Netherlands. It the pan looks different..perhaps it is fiberglass? I am wondering if anyone has seen a seat like this before.
(https://fotobucket.site/uploads/9c7de1da87423498cf8234f099f1e5514863e1d9.jpg)
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There's a permutation of that pan style in this current post (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13719.msg122893.html#msg122893). Scroll down to it.
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I have mixed and matched seats on my bikes. Comfort seats, Corbin seats, a couple Russell seats, and basic seats.
Except for the very early seats with the handles as part of the seat, almost any seat will work on any bike. With one caveat. The seat from a K1100LT(and possibly some late model K75RT's) won't work on a bike that has the under seat tool box. The reason is that the pan is deeper under the driver to allow for more padding or something. Not a big deal if you can live without the tool box. You will have to replace it with the ECU holder that doesn't have one.
Otherwise, the hinge locations are the same except that at some point the base was changed to allow a rubber cushioned hinge. As long as you have the right hinges for the seat base and the tool box isn't in the way you can do almost anything as far as seats.
Hope this makes sense.
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If you use the later K1100 Lt seat you can use the under seat tool box if you trim it down. I used a white marker to run along the frame along the side of the box and trimmed the box off above the frame line. As per Gryph the hinges are different and harder to obtain in OZ, however they can be made. A welder, a vice, hacksaw and a drill is all the tools needed.
Regards Martin.
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I have mixed and matched seats on my bikes. Comfort seats, Corbin seats, a couple Russell seats, and basic seats.
Except for the very early seats with the handles as part of the seat, almost any seat will work on any bike. With one caveat. The seat from a K1100LT(and possibly some late model K75RT's) won't work on a bike that has the under seat tool box. The reason is that the pan is deeper under the driver to allow for more padding or something. Not a big deal if you can live without the tool box. You will have to replace it with the ECU holder that doesn't have one.
Otherwise, the hinge locations are the same except that at some point the base was changed to allow a rubber cushioned hinge. As long as you have the right hinges for the seat base and the tool box isn't in the way you can do almost anything as far as seats.
Hope this makes sense.
Thanks, this is great info. I currently have a modified Corbin seat but I am not happy with the way it sits on the bike. I am exploring other options at the moment.
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When you say it doesn't sit right on the bike what do you mean?
You may have the wrong hinges, or the side to side adjustment may be out of whack. Can you post some photos that show what is off?
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When you say it doesn't sit right on the bike what do you mean?
You may have the wrong hinges, or the side to side adjustment may be out of whack. Can you post some photos that show what is off?
There is a pronounced gap between the front of the seat and the tank. It is as far forward as it will go. There are also issues with how it bears down on the frame of the bike. The edges put pressure on the side-panels (to the point of one popping off the tank). I am trying to source new rubber bumpers/feet, but I am not having much luck. I ordered some from Corbin but they sent the newer style that are too short.
So at this point I am just keeping an eye out for something different to try.
(https://fotobucket.site/uploads/69b236c6ec21ec25b05ae64221f0f45651b1ec37.jpg)
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I am trying to source new rubber bumpers/feet, but I am not having much luck. . So at this point I am just keeping an eye out for something different to try.
A rubber stopper sliced to the appropriate diameter and thickness then secured with weatherstripping cement or silicone adhesive could work. Furniture leg gliders could, also. This is hardware store stuff.
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Make sure the tank is fully down.
The original seat cover was formed, if replaced, the new one was probably stretched on, bending the plastic base, creating the gap between the tank.
My '90 model k75s is the same as your bottom picture, it's plastic. I use it on my '85 k100rt (which it fits just as well) cause it's better.
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I just checked the seats on my three bricks. The gap between the tank and the front of the seat on all of them is at least a quarter inch, and closer to 5/16". The front of the seat has never been close to the tank on any of the 5 bricks I've owned. Your photo doesn't look unusual to me.
As far as sitting low and hitting the battery covers, is it on both sides, or just one side? Is it the hinge side? Can you post a photo of the bumpers on your seat?
I don't have a Corbin seat here anymore, but I think you can use the OEM bumpers which come in two versions. One is about 3mm thick, or a bit less than 1/8" and the other is closer to 1/4", maybe 5mm.
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+1 When John Moorehouse did my seat re-furb many years ago he came out to see how it fitted. The gap was much the same as yours so after I removed it he hit the base with a heat gun and carefully applied weight to it, it took a couple of goes to get it back to where it should have been.
Regards Martin.