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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: Rcgreaves on May 22, 2020, 10:51:38 AM
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7/15/20-lots of additional items added as I disassembled and discovered wear items.
Laitch abridged version:
A quick MB search didn't yield any definitive gripes with Enduralast fork seals, so: Should I use OEM only or shall I save significant coin on aftermarket seals? Ok, full disclosure- money is tight, I ordered the aftermarket seals today...
Fork Seal and Dust Cap Kit - BMW K75, K100 ; 31 42 1 451 829, 31 42 1 451 478, 31 42 1 450 127 / EnDuraLast 1 $33.99 shipping was $14 so $49 shipped. I believe with free shipping and 15% off a part Max was $105. That Germany rubber is special after all....
You wish stuff like this would show up in February during an ice storm, but I grant it is a stretch to imagine a fork seal failing in the garage as I make "pffffting beemer sounds" on the center stand, right?
I did a 500 mile "yee haa", a couple of weeks back from the WI Door Peninsula home, and at dismount in my garage, my right strut slider was coated not only in evergreen pollen but fork oil goo too and bleeding fast.... fork oil goo too, amazing what comes out with a strong cup of coffee and good night's sleep.
So: via Max, the resto parts including the "Johnny says I must bushings" eh eh, that's me coughing up my billfold, $165 shipped. that's for the rubber bits 2,4,6 If memory serves..
Euromotoelectrics.com offers a seal "kit" of seals and dust caps for roughly half the OEM .
So I'll snag the Max 15% off for the bushing order and ask:
"Am I ok with Enduralast Aftermarket seals and dust cap?" Will they last?"
Heres the bushing info.
BILLING INFO:
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Name: R Greaves ZIP: 53554-9510
Card: VISA XXXX XXXX XXXX 5709
Part# |Description | Each | Total
-------------------|----------------------------------------|------------|---------------------
2/31422312705 |GUIDE BUSH (from 08/91) | $21.54| $43.08
1/36131181082 |PLAQUE WITH ADHESIVE FILM | $6.77| $6.77
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SubTotal: $49.85
Shipping: $0.00 (Free Shipping-$0.00)
Coupons: MDAY15
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL: $49.85
Dig that cool curvy Rondel (plaque) for my new Shoei! Get yours from the helmet section of MAX.com
From my study, these appear to be the cause of some early failures of replacement seals from any source. Makes sense that the seal would wear prematurely if the slider slips around under load, distorting the seal area, introducing grit, etc...
Gaiters, not my speed:
BTW I'm a convert to the Traxxion.com "non gaiterator, flip off griterators," what are these protectors called that grip the slider and place a plastic....guard in front of the dust cap area? My VFR showed up with what looks like an oem install. Gaiters make sense for extending the life of seals if removed and rinsed out periodically. but this Traxxion gadget that deflects grit away and enabling a periodic rinse of the dust cap area makes the most sense to me. In my youth, many were the time that I removed a gaiter to discover a puddle of grit atop my fork seal. ok I'm rambling now.
Parts total $92 with fork oil.
Thanks in advance for any first-hand experience with Enduralast.
PS the traxxion.com website sucks. The part that works on my K11 struts is spec'ed for a GSXR750, I only got it right because Mr. Yee Haa sent a link. I recommend calling them as it doesn't show up on the site. Are K1100 struts a different diameter than K75? I have a set in hand so I'll see if they clamp well to the K75. Pictures to follow later today when I hit the shop for my first ever moto tire change.
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When I had a leaking seal a couple of years ago, I took one of my SealMates and jogged it around the fork tube half a dozen times. That cleaned out particles that had infiltrated; the seal stopped leaking. You could fashion one of those from film negatives.
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Seal Mates is new to me. It brings to mind a Wurth brand rubber "renewer" my GoldWing wrench used to spritz the unobtanium Carb slider seals on my OEM Honda carbs. If memory served 4 "old stock" were about $360... Anyway, the rubber seemed to swell literally when bathed in this stuff. The sliders sealed and I was in "bidnus"! This is the seal equivalent of a fingernail file tool- who knew!
So the negative would push bits on grit out of the seal area?? makes sense....Does a seal mate fill the gap in the seal? I'll look it up thanks.
PS: Im interviewing in Montreal- We could meet! scary....
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sealmate.com
Laitch 1+ my friend, duh, that's really neat....had no idea.
Seal Mate - Fix Leaking Fork Seals - 1-Pack / Blue × 1
$6.99
Subtotal
$6.99
Shipping
$0.00
Taxes
$0.00
Total
$6.99 USD
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You could fashion one of those from film negatives.
When we finish unpacking, I've got boxes of 35mm slides that work well too. Perhaps a "give-away" for donations to MB ... and maybe the images will have vintage rides in them. ;)
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good idea, though slide negatives are saltine sized, while print negatives in strips are shaped like a 6" ruler.
JULY 10 ADD- print negatives are too floppy for this chore. Tool works well but yielded no grit alas
Either way, one hell of a tip. " Laitch the greater" you have my fealty....
instinct says I could cancel my parts order...nah...but I'll start with the seal mate sweep or maybe I'll steal my wife's nail clean/polish kit.. :nono2:
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I replaced my seals 20 + years ago and haven't had to change them since. Thoroughly clean out the area between the seal and the dust seal. Then pack heavy silicone grease between the two seals. Change out the grease every couple of years or so, more often if riding in extreme dusty conditions.
Regards Martin.
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Hi Martin
Is rubber grease the same thing (Penrite, red) or at least is it suitable? And good for under the brake seals too? I always get this stuff mixed up. How thick do you put it on?
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I always use silicone grease easier to see if it's catching crap. Supercheap used to have it at $9.00 a tube Herschell silicone paste. I also pack it in as to fill all voids under rear master cylinder boots and pack it around the front master cylinder piston entrance. Although I am currently running a Chicom rear master cylinder I still have my 28 year old OEM in perfect condition in storage. I've also been known to smear it around plastic electrical connections ( not the pins) to keep out water and air which leads to oxidation.
Regards Martin.
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sealmate.com
sealmate.net maybe, Gouda Bob?
44271
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OK OK typo on the sealmate site, oops, I suck at such details day in and out... (Get it Richard Day? RC cleaver joker ayyyy?)
It all starts with my corresponding DAILY with some airhead at high altitude Cloudcroft confusing me with a cute handle like Bon Von Jovi...that may be the only time I've typed that correctly. 44271
OK Ok so I finally parked the K75 sealmate in hand. How does one remove the dust cap without mucking it up?
Anyway, I ran the sealmate several times and didn't see any grit come with it...drat. I procrastinated on the seals...now I just need to "git er done"
Im going with the Enduralast parts.
In other news:
While up on the stands I'll ride my manly Interceptor 750, and do all this:
Valve adjustment - three shims on order
Spline Lube
final drive fluid chang
Tranny oil change
Brake fluid change
Tranny Spline Lube
USB Power plug installation
replace fuel filter
Replace muffler system - got a spare for someone here!
Instrument LED upgrade
New Clutch Cable
Then... I gotta go for a seriously long ride!
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Seems like I remember there's a couple of K bikes and spares about 70 clicks from The Greaves Ponderosa, you should like totally buy it all and pile it in a convenient corner Just Cause. Then start your own Patreon channel of Brick How-To vids. I'd watch. :popcorm
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that 76' GL000 must be a REALLY small displacement engine.. 44271 (he had GL000 in his signature- "old age typo!"
Think of this like one of those times in a restaurant with friends and you dribble ketchup all over your shirt, a true pal leans over and says, "hey btw when you sell the bike off you can't take credit for storing it anymore!
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I pulled the pistons & rods, pounded in some wood log 'dowels', added pedals and a sail. Put actual varnish in the tank to kill the gas fumes. Not another GL000 like it anywears!
4265249878
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You can cut out a Seal Mate out of a 1.25 litre soft drink/soda plastic bottle.
Regards Martin.
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You can cut out a Seal Mate out of a 1.25 litre soft drink/soda plastic bottle.
That's a Soda Mate.
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I used a Pepsi Max bottle so it's a Maxi Mate.
Regards Martin.
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. . . it's a Maxi Mate.
With a marketing name like that, you might generate broad interest.
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Laitch for a small percentage you can have the US manufacturing and distribution rights. 112350
Regards Martin.
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Maxi Mate, Pepsi Mate trademarked with patent pending.
With wifey entering week 3 of rehab from full knee replacement I at long last spent an evening in the shop.
I have a stack of staged reassembly to do but have opted to do all the teardown steps first. Last night it was a final drive spline check. Though they show the effects of 83k miles they were lubed and happy after roughly 10k miles. (skipped at tire swap last season)...
I've made a practice of maximizing the rear wheel brake application since acquiring the ABS-equipped brick. Result: a cursory rear brake pad inspection shows about 1/32" of remaining lining.."ok".
QUESTION for the opinionated and Laitch:
So, : Brake Pads- I know great brakes when I use them, Am I getting my money's worth buying for say EBC brand front and back for roughly $75 or can the underemployed get by with Caltric on eBay front and rear for $16 shipped (link below). PS: All my rotors check-in spec but barely, 1.6 to 1.5.....So my thought on this is cheapo pads on the Brembo til winter and fresh rotors/pads for next season.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-And-Rear-Brake-Pads-for-BMW-K75Rt-K75-Rt-750-Abs-1991-1994/282323091720?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225074%26meid%3D7cd372be192041b19959b794ee67e147%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D282323091720%26itm%3D282323091720%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DCaltric&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A60491320-c2cc-11ea-8a3f-74dbd180b5fc%7Cparentrq%3A399b907d1730a688a4083fb4ffea6f14%7Ciid%3A1
My valve shims arrived. I referenced copious notes by the PO showing the #3 exhaust shim at 2.35 but alas it came out marked 2.30mm :johnny I need to break out the caliper today and verify measurements-- pain in my a$$.
My frame support is holding my dormant K1100rs resto so I'm wrestling with the idea of waiting till winter to lube the tranny splines. I'll probably improvise and do that too since I'm shoulder deep, and most importantly- My Interceptor 750 realllllly makes me grin!
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I've made a practice of maximizing the rear wheel brake application since acquiring the ABS-equipped brick.
What is the purpose of doing that?
Unless you can afford to buy another set of EBC pads when you mount new rotors, your choice would seem to be mounting a set of El Cheapos now and letting us know how it all worked out when the dust settles.
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I've been using el Cheapo Volar organic Kevlar pads on all my bikes. They cost about 18 bucks for a complete set, and they hardly wear the rotors.
Of course, my life isn't worth anywhere near what yours is, so I would advise using the most expensive sintered pads you can find and grind down those rotors.
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I've been using el Cheapo Volar organic Kevlar pads . . .
Go with those, Rc. Volar means to fly in Spanish. It's almost like they're meant to be yours!
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What is the purpose of doing that?
Unless you can afford to buy another set of EBC pads when you mount new rotors, your choice would seem to be mounting a set of El Cheapos now and letting us know how it all worked out when the dust settles.
Fair question: I’ve found abs has enabled me to dive deeper into an apex and mash the binders more than I would without the abs click click click. Anyway I went through these pads faster than I would have guessed- that’s why.😬
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ABS on a brick is like training wheels on a kids bicycle. if the kid looses balance, the training wheels will keep the bike upright unless the kid really screwed up. leaning on the training wheels is not the best way to ride a bike. if a brick rider mashes the brake lever/pedal harder that the tires and road can take, the abs releases some pressure so that the wheels can keep turning a little for bike control. not gonna save a rider that really screws up though.
however crude, the ABS on bricks works well for those "oh shit" moments. I see no logic in the reasoning people use for ripping it out.
using the ABS all the time is NOT a good brake technique. braking at the threshold of traction (before ABS kicks in) is the fastest way to stop a brick..and the safest.
and the back brake is really just a decoration in a hard braking scenario. the back wheel is almost completely unloaded if braking hard. front brake is where 99.9% of the braking force is generated. rarely ever even touch the rear brake on track.
note - if loaded two up or with piles of gear on the back, the rear brake does a little more work..but the front is still doing the majority of the stopping.
cheap out on the rear brake pads if you like, but get real brake pads for the front.
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“Braking to the threshold of traction “-like 1300s said is more what I was trying to describe. Thanks, and yes, I’ve found using the ABS as a tool to discover the threshold of traction has improved my riding especially after migraine from a non ABS brick.
Excuse me while I go straighten out my nose.
Still hunting for Volar ABS front and rear kit . Are ABS and non ABS pads different?
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As far as I can tell they're the same for ABS or non-ABS. The outfit I get mine from is D2Moto. They are a seller on eBay.
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As far as I can tell they're the same for ABS or non-ABS. The outfit I get mine from is D2Moto. They are a seller on eBay.
Thanks for the feedback, The parts do look alike. My thought is suppliers create auctions in sloppy fashion to match search that don't necessarily match the app. One I recall was K75 85-88 ABS etc.
order in process. Cheers!
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One warning on the Volar pads. The backing plates seem to be punched with old tooling. Probably why they are so cheap. That makes some of them a couple thousandths oversize. Not a big deal, it just takes a couple minutes with a file to knock off the extra metal to get a nice fit in the caliper. They also like to squeal a bit, so a little anti-squeak on the back will make it easier to sneak up on pedestrians.
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One warning on the Volar pads. The backing plates seem to be punched with old tooling. Probably why they are so cheap. That makes some of them a couple thousandths oversize. Not a big deal, it just takes a couple minutes with a file to knock off the extra metal to get a nice fit in the caliper. They also like to squeal a bit, so a little anti-squeak on the back will make it easier to sneak up on pedestrians.
So I might have pulled the trigger on the Volars but tired of hunting for the best Match of EBay auction to my year and spec.
I chose Caltric brand semi metallics made in China. I like what they sent $17.78 shipped.
Off for 4 days, time to service the tranny splines and turn around and start reassembly in earnest.
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Mahle Air Filter $40.47 shipped Euro Moto Electrics ... No sense in syncing my throttle bodies, valve shins etc without a fresh air filter.
Cancelled July 19 - Amazon much better deal per Gryph.
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Try Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-LX-75-Filter/dp/B0068O1MNG
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$29.31 after tax. Thanks Gryph!!
I think this idea for shim removal is brilliant- compressed air!
I can’t endorse some of the other klugey stuff like grinding shins to size.... He compresses the spring with a screwdriver...Maybe on the side of the road in Alaska, but never for a first experience like I just enjoyed. Buy the spring tool forevermore!! I spent a lot of time getting comfortable that I was measuring etc accurately not confusing SAE and Metric tolerances, revisiting Youtube. Nevertheless, the compressed air is an elegant solution worth sharing.
https://youtu.be/4veyx2QHgnw
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Valve adjust done. Compressed air for shim release from oil suction inside bucket +1 . Included a pic of the shim popped loose behind the cam🤣! Fast. Look how much of an oil puddle sits behind the shim even after a month. Pretty frustrating fighting that with a pick and scratching stuff in the klugey process..Compressed air instantly breaks that suction seal. Video added 7/24. bad mechanic, spark plugs last....
https://youtu.be/pwProV-Kl4I
Most crank the engine for valve adjust with hex sections cast into the cams, I prefer a 5mm hex head turning at the ignition trigger, a ratchet there is more precise than clanging away with a combination wrench all props to Chris Harris.... on the cam and dinging against the case to valve cover sealing surface.
another side track--
Last fall I tipped in a parking lot scratching the corner of the valve cover, so I carefully filed sanded buffer sanded and repainted.
Mititoya pro grade digital caliper and Chinese manual compared and measured very similarly. For giggles I compared Harbor Freight cheapo caliper. Unacceptable readings- sufficiently inaccurate it would create more problems... shit canned that- don’t need 3 dial calipers. Mitutoya is about $70 -a good investment.
A month later and I have yet to sort the front struts that got me started here. That will come last.
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Its been nearly a year since I worked actively on my K75. Shoulder surgery, so much COVID TV to watch. Actually, I've restored a couple of other bikes so here goes:
The shop is cleaned and the parts are laying out like surgery. I didn't address lubricating my clutch splines, so I sprang for a fresh friction disk and the requisite hardware necessary from MAX. With my K1100 still occupying my support, I'll have to come up with a second support apparatus before I can remove the transmission. pictures Saturday. Cheers.