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MOTOBRICK MARKETPLACE => FS WTB WTT ~ Bikes ~ Parts ~ Gear => Topic started by: unknownroad on May 06, 2020, 10:09:43 PM
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Let me put this right up front- this bike runs great right up until it decides not to. For five years I’ve spent far more time cursing it than riding it and am now admitting defeat. I assume that someone smarter can fix it, but I offer no guarantees.
With that said, the positives are:
Low 27k miles
99.5% complete and original
Many parts replaced within past 1000 miles- front tire, fuel pump, fuel filters, injectors, plugs, good used computer, and an Odyssey AGM battery that I just wasted $140 on last month (April 2020).
Cooling system flushed April 2020, splines supposedly done @24k by previous owner.
Never been crashed, no dents in tank, all plastics are good aside from one side panel clip that’s been shoddily replaced (panel itself is fine), and road rash on the upper lid of a tragkorb that opened while riding.
ABS equipped and functioning, all gauges and lights work as they should. $70 LED headlight bulb, which is probably not ideal but is better than the bulb it had when I brought it home.
Currently registered and roadworthy, I have a clean SC title.
Little stuff already done for you- sidestand cutoff disabled, manual fan switch, USB charging ports, 4-wire tank plug replaced, mirror and side panel tethers, aux light mount set up and properly wired.
Cons-
Periodically decides to sputter and die for no reason once warmed up. Will restart and run again after sitting on the side of the highway for a while (or at least it has so far). Usually starts 45 minutes to an hour into a ride, at highway speed.
Many small nicks and scuffs from constantly being muscled around the garage and taken apart.
Original hazard light switch broken, and ABS switch is currently MIA somewhere in my garage. Right side “bunker” (big chunk of rubber to block heat from radiator) lost and replaced with a homemade substitute.
No tool kit (where DO they all go?)
Rear tire is getting on in years, although tread is fine.
Fog lights apparently hit the fender at full compression, and I butchered the plastic filler panel under the headlight a little to install them (fairing itself is untouched).
Located in zip code 29449, Hollywood South Carolina, about 25 miles south of Charleston.
Asking $2,000, which is an embarrassingly small fraction of what I’ve got into it. If you can fix it without spending a fortune or losing your sanity like I have, it’s a hell of a bike for the money, and in theory it's barely broken in. Won’t go a lot lower on the price before I part out the high cost/low effort stuff and ceremonially destroy the rest.
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(I can take any other pics upon request)
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greetings...
if i fix your moto telepathically... will you keep it or still sell it...
j o
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Replace the Hall Sensors. Then it will run and you can sell it for $2400.
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Replace the Hall Sensors. Then it will run and you can sell it for $2400.
You don't think I tested the Hall Effect sensors? Give me at least a little credit. 177381
greetings...
if i fix your moto telepathically... will you keep it or still sell it...
j o
I honestly thought I'd fixed it back in February- I got about 500 miles without a single hiccup, then it tried to kill me on I-95 again. No more. I'm going back to my cheap carb-fed bikes.
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You don't think I tested the Hall Effect sensors? Give me at least a little credit. 177381
Cheer up! You're on the cusp of release from bondage. You didn't indicate that you'd checked Hall sensors in any of the descriptions of your work so it was a reasonable suggestion. Clearly, this moto's reluctance to start is baffling and it's a wise move to rid yourself of it. Good luck with your sale.
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You don't think I tested the Hall Effect sensors? Give me at least a little credit. 177381
You should have mentioned it. Unlike Johnny, I have no telepathic powers.
In any event, the problem screams classic Hall Sensor failure. You've replaced everything else.
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I've been on the hunt for one, and my daughter and grands live in Charleston, I may be up for the challenge to sort this out, I've PM'd you.
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Couple more. Right side does exist.
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More suspension travel than I realized
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Forgot to add that the PO butchered the rack for a cheapo top case
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$55 worth of custom-printed waterproof switches
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nominated AUX light award
nice moto
what's the paint code?
does this moto have a CO sensor?
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Paint code is 658.
I'm not familiar with a a CO sensor. I can check if you give me more info on what to look for.
Price reduced to $1800 firm, or PM me with parts requests.
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I'm not familiar with a a CO sensor. I can check if you give me more info on what to look for.
It is a pollution control device. When not adjusted correctly, the engine can misfire and even stall. Adjusting it is part of tuneup procedure. You'll find a procedure in the Maintenance and general instructions section p. 00.26 of BMW's K1100 workshop manual at this link (http://www.bskspeedworks.co.uk/downloads/BMW__K1100LT_K1100RS_Repair_Manual.pdf).
Have you checked the fault codes of your moto's engine?
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Paint code is 658.
I'm not familiar with a a CO sensor. I can check if you give me more info on what to look for.
Price reduced to $1800 firm, or PM me with parts requests.
658 = Marrakesh Red ,same color as my R1100RS. really nice color which doesn't seem to fade as bad as other reds. It would be a shame to part out this classic K. somebody buy this before I have to.
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I forgot that you could pull error codes... last time I tried was with the dead computer run-around, so it didn't give any.
It's currently displaying 1223, 1133, and 1122 in that order. So, 2 Hall Effect errors and a water temp sensor error. I tested the Hall Effect sensors with a heat gun in 2016 or so and they worked then, but maybe they've failed since, or maybe I'm stupider than I give myself credit for. Not taking bets on which.
I'm not clear on where the CO sensor is from the diagram, but I'm guessing it's under the fairing somewhere? If so I donno- I'm not taking it apart again.
Thanks,
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I'm not clear on where the CO sensor is from the diagram, but I'm guessing it's under the fairing somewhere?
At the red arrow tip in the neighborhood of the throttle position sensor.
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At the red arrow tip in the neighborhood of the throttle position sensor.
I have looked at this on my 91 K100 RS, by looking at my plugs I think my bike is running lean. Should one fool with this without a CO analyzer? My manual does not says which way turning the screw leans or enriches the mixture, which way does what?
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Should one fool with this without a CO analyzer? My manual does not . . .
These questions would constitute a threadjack, Tommy, if it weren't for the fact that unknownroad might be able to use the information if his moto languishes on the auction block and he wants to explore options.
AutoZone or one of their cohort might loan a CO analyzer for just a deposit. I don't know if the adjustment is the same on the two motos but here are the instructions for the K1100 if you want to experiment. Keep track of the slot position.
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Think of the CO adjustment as a needle valve that controls the fuel flow. CCW(direction #1) opens the valve to let more fuel flow just like opening a faucet. CW(direction #3) closes down the flow.
I would advise leaving the adjustment alone if you don't have a good exhaust analyzer. In my experience, there are long lag times in the response of the meter to changes, and you can very easily get the engine running way out of whack. Also, the setting is basically just a fine mixture adjustment and only controls the idle setting.
Throttle position and engine temperature have the main effect on plug readings. The condition of the air filter also has an effect on plug readings as well fuel delivery to the injectors which is affected by the fuel pump, filter and pressure regulator. When you say the plugs are showing lean, how lean are you talking, really clean insulator noses or melted electrodes?
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sorry about the thread jack.
The plugs whiter looking then I seen on my other bikes.
I check out autozone for a co meter, if useful I will start a new thread.
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Without further explanation of the issue, I'll bet if you replace that HES, your problem will be solved.
When the HES went out of Big Red, it was a nice humid 98 degree day, 15 miles from home. Only one side quit, and I could feel, and hear the pump surging rather than spinning. If I could get the rpm's up over 4k, it would almost run ok for a little while. Stopped at a Mexican Restaurant about halfway home and had dos glasses of agua and a cerveza. That gave it time to cool enough to run better. I SHOULD have thrown a glass of the ice water on the HES cover too, but didn't think of it at the time. I'm fortunate enough to have two bikes, so I took the HES off the '91 and put it on Big Red, that solved the problem, so the '91 got a new HES.
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is this still for sale? PM'd but never got a reply????
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Same issue years ago on my 96 k11rs. defective water temp sensor, falsely tells the computer to shut off the fuel pump, thinking the engine is overheating.
Bike cools off, it's all good.
Your codes have flagged the part, and my apologies if you have tried this, didn't see that you actually changed it out.
cheers, you own one of the last really great BMW's.