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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Trash Hauler on April 18, 2020, 04:33:38 AM
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I searched for a rebuild guide on the 13 mm Magura front master cylinder but could not find one so here is a summary of what I have done for those who plan to do the rebuild of the original master cylinder.
Note that this model master cylinder does not have a grub screw - it uses a C clip in the cylinder bore. To get to the c clip you have to split the master cylinder
1. Remove the master cylinder from the handlebar
2. Remove the switch block
3. Remove the brake lever
3. Remove the reservoir (3 screws on top and one on the bottom
4. Remove the two hex head screws from the inboard end of the master cylinder
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5. Place the master cylinder in the vice clamping the area of the master cylinder assembly that does not contain the bore. Note the split line in the assembly.
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6. Tap on the underside of the bore. I tapped on the outlet flange after removing the hose fitting.
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7. Once you have started the separation work it free by hand
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8. Once separated identify the c clip. Likely to be covered in corrosion.’
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9. Remove the c clip and then remove the piston assembly.
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10. Assembly is reverse of the above using rebuild kit. Make sure to order the c clip separately as it does not come in the kit.
I hope this assists.
TH
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To stop the corrosion pack silicone around the "C" clip and entrance, and don't use high pressure washing around that area. It's also a good idea to pack silicone grease under the rear master cylinder boot. The grease stops or reduces the chance of ingress of water and road crap. If you ever get a front master cylinder with an un-restorable bore there is apparently two places in OZ that sleeves cylinders in stainless steel and makes up new pistons to suit. One is in Brendale QLD the other is in SA, I've no details on the SA repairer.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks Martin - great advice.