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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: rkildu on November 22, 2011, 10:32:22 PM
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As part of my currently underway spline lube, it looks like I will be replacing the rear main seal. I have the seal on order and should have in a few days.
I have a tech bulletin #2798 that shows a special driver to insert the seal leaving a 0.5 mm of the new seal sticking out. I am used to driving seal in flush and can handle that, this is more difficult.
Has anyone come up with an alternative tool to do this?
Thanks
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Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty
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I have always used an aftermarket seal which is 2mm narrower than standard and heaps cheaper. I put it in flush and have never had a problem.
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I used the stock seal and a large socket and hammer to drive it in. When it looked like It was sticking out about .5 mil it stopped. Never has dripped a drop. I wasn't to critical about it.
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I had to replace the main seal on my K100RS. I used a BMW seal even though a serviceable aftermarket one was available. I used a block of wood and plastic mallet to drive in the seal. I tapped gently and continuously around the perimeter of the seal, making sure all the time that the seal was being driven in evenly. When I came close to the 0.5mm proud stage, I used calipers to measure the protrusion. I wanted to be as accurate as possible. Time efficiency was not a concern so having the proper tool would have been faster but not more accurate. I got a quote from a local machine shop to turn a proper tool from plastic and it was expensive; hence the block of wood method.
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I've been thinking about this. I have the specs on the driver but I don't have a lathe or any metal working equipment. I do have a wood shop, still no lathe, and have been thinking about trying to make something out of hard wood. I can cut round pieces on the band saw and make everything except the 0.5 mm relief. I think I can make up some shims to glue around the edges, it doesn't have to be a complete circle, out of metal can stock. After all, it only has to work once.
Thanks
Rod
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I think I can make up some shims to glue around the edges,
How about using several pan head wood screws? Select an example with a head thickness of exactly 0.5mm. Take twenty or so of them and drive them into your wooden tool around the periphery spaced slightly apart until you have a complete circle of them.
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Here is my home made bearing driver. I think it will work, I'll let you know.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/rkildu/KOG%20logo/IMG_0118.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/rkildu/KOG%20logo/IMG_0119.jpg)
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/rkildu/KOG%20logo/IMG_0120.jpg)
Rod
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I am pleased to report that my creation worked like a champ! When I removed the old seal it started dripping oil, so I had to install the new one immediately. I got the new seal started evenly all around with a rubber mallet, switched to the seal driver and drove it home. It has a nice even lip protruding as intended. It's a good thing I had it ready.
Now I can start putting the darned thing back together!
Rod
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Now thats what I call good thinking and ingenuity. Top shot.
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Here is my home made bearing driver. I think it will work, I'll let you know.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff116/rkildu/KOG%20logo/IMG_0118.jpg)
Hey Rod, how did you get the old one out? Mine's pretty stuck I think the sealant is mega-stuck. Did you use sealant when you put back in a new one in?
Chris
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A seal puller, it hooks under the lip of the seal and pops it right out.
This is the one I used;
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=358&division=1&category=7 (http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=358&division=1&category=7)
A good auto parts store should have one.
No sealant needed, just make sure the surfaces are clean and drive the new one in.
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Mine just disentegrated using a seal puller but was still stuck fast! In the end I used a slide hammer (or a home brew version)
Sent from my BlackBerry using Tapatalk so excuse the spelling!