MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Filmcamera on April 04, 2020, 03:57:40 PM
-
Since I, like most of the world, am stuck in the house I thought I would take the opportunity to respray the brick.
As oftens seems to happen once I started I have now decided to do more a little. So I am planning to do the frame, engine, gearbox and swing arm next. What is generally considered the best match for the satin black colour of the frame etc? Also is the bottom half of the tail section where the rear brake light is mounted painted the same satin colour?
This is my first ever respray job so I am bound to make a bit of a mess of it but I have plenty of time and am trying to do as much prep as I can before actually spraying. Pics will follow...
Stay well and stay safe wherever you are.
And
STAY THE FUCK AT HOME!
lol
-
Rustoleum Canyon Satin Black seems to be a close match.
Regards Martin.
-
Thanks Martin!
-
Preparation, preparation, preparation is key to a good outcome, that and don't try to cover with one coat. Multiple light coats are better. I haven't painted a whole bike for over 25 years but I had more success with an air brush as far as finish is concerned. If using spray cans keep the nozzle clean between applications.
Regards Martin.
-
I am using a compressor with a gun. Yeah in my research the main thing I have heard is that the prep is everything. Luckily most of the old paint job was not too bad so most of the prep is just scuffing it up with 400 grit ready to accept the new paint. Though I am a little torn, if that is all I have had to do should I prime it still or go straight to top coat?
-
Trouble in QLD is the humidity unless you have a dryer fitted water gets into the paint.
-
It is pretty humid here as well, the rainy season is due to start in a couple of weeks. I do have a little device that is supposed to help remove water from the air, we shall see.
-
There are plans on line on how to build a dryer using desiccant, as against the back and forth tubing method. I might have to build one eventually.
Regards Martin.
-
When I repainted my K100RS, I sanded all the colored parts with 400-grit, then sprayed on some very thick coats of epoxy primer to fill scratches and other imperfections. Sanded each coat with 400-grit before moving on to color coat and clear coat.
-
I like using rattle can clear coat. It saves a lot of work getting the viscosity right and setting up the gun, not to mention the clean up when you're done. Last couple jobs I've been using this 2k stuff. If you throw it in the freezer right after you use it you can keep it from setting up in the can for two days.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SprayMax-3680061-2K-Glamour-High-Gloss-Clear-Coat-11-8-oz-1-Case-6-Cans/362071612205
Another option is to make a deal with a collision shop to shoot the clear in their booth. If you shop around you might be able to get it done for not much more than the cost of the paint. Paying a pro to do the clear can be a lot more efficient than buffing out the runs and orange peel you are pretty sure to have. Not to mention the bugs that won't be in the pro job because it was done in a proper paint booth. Figuring the cost of a buffer and compounds with the clear, the break even is about $250 to have a pro shoot the clear, not to mention the time you spend sanding and buffing your f-ups.
-
I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint. This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though. I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...
-
I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint. This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though. I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...
That would probably be $200 well spent and time saved to read "War and Peace" or try decoupage
You have Earl Scheib or Maaco painting in CR ?
-
I had considered that to be honest, do all the prep and just take the parts to a guy to paint. This is CR, it would probably cost me $200 to have them do base coat and clear - it feels like a cop out though. I am stuck in the house for the next God only knows how long, seems like a good time to screw up and learn from my mistakes...
Have you ever done a paint job before? Gun control on a big flat object like the side of a car is one thing, but smaller complicated stuff like the fairing lowers can be sort of tough to get clear to flow out without runs or sags. You gotta keep moving, but not too fast. Stop for a second and you have a big run down the part, go too fast and the surface will look like 80 grit paper.
You can almost get away with murder putting down the base. Just be patient and do a lot of light coats, but clear has to be wet. That's where someone who does it every day has the advantage of experience.
Do the prep, prime everything, make the parts perfect and shell out the cash for a pro job. Then strip the frame and do a really good job on it. Detail every bit you take off, it will keep you plenty busy. A proper job can keep you busy well after your incarceration has ended.
-
I don't know anything about painting, and https://www.expresspaint.com/ helped me a lot when I did my bike.
Stay safe!
-
Make sure you use a good quality clearcoat.
Regards Martin.
-
skip the clear coat, (https://objects.blains.com/products/39/600/396092.jpg) it
-
Tempting but I am going to go with clear coat. Since I got the street triple the brick is mainly used for gentle weekend rides with my wife. AS such it should look its best!
-
Believe it or not, I've had pretty good results with a rattlecan. I found a paint shop here that mixes water-based BMW paint into a can including metal chips. As everyone else says, it's all about the prep, the only thing that doesn't look excellent on my metallic black brick is where I f**ked it up. If you're doing anything but metallic black, be advised that the color of the primer will affect the outcome in a big way. I tried to match Mystic Red for my Parabellum fairing using a gray primer and got a much darker red, not a match at all, but good enough for bad rock-n-roll so I left it.
I also highly recommend the SprayMax. You can get an excellent result, probably better than you'd get with your compressor and gun. Not to mention the time saved with mixing and cleanup which is a serious PITA with two-part clear coats.
Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3
-
Believe it or not, I've had pretty good results with a rattlecan. I found a paint shop here that mixes water-based BMW paint into a can including metal chips...
Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3
Paint the brick with water-based paint really never heard of that.
You been through a lot I say a prayer for you. Stay safe
-
Also - please...don't do this dumbass trick with the sidestand. I was amazed to hear I wasn't the only moron who ruined 2 days of work through complete ignorance.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9315.25.html?PHPSESSID=adf401e456b4cc0fd5b8d957a0f8adf3
Yeah, you really gotta a be a royal dumbass to park a full tank on the sidestand a couple days after a new paint job. Damn!!!
-
One other point, unless you use 2K Urethane, which is only slightly more toxic than the cyanide used to execute criminals, expect the paint to take at least a month to get to full hardness. It gives you time to buff out the orange peel, but is very sensitive to things like fuel and imprints from things like tank bags that are left in place for a couple days.
-
Good to know, thanks!
-
Paint the brick with water-based paint really never heard of that.
You been through a lot I say a prayer for you. Stay safe
Water based has come very far since most US states started banning oil based paints. It's worth looking into. It's the clearcoat that provides the epoxy protection and shine anyway.
-
OK it turns out I totally suck at this. I am pretty frustrated. I have tried three times to do some smaller parts and the results are just rubbish everytime.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-210420110733-30721298.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-210420110725-30701059.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-210420110723-3070941.jpeg)
I have watched dozens of Youtube videos etc but just cannot seem to get it right. I either put on way too much paint and get sags and runs r too little and get weird patches, the last picture is some sort of chemical reaction I am guessing.
Sadly the virus situation has left me unemployed for now so I do not really have the option to give up and take it to a shop to do.
Right now I have the choice of leaving it off the road or putting it back together and riding with no paint job, unless someone here can give me some miracle advice that is.
Help!
:johnny
-
plastidip and ride, brother. I will put your Ratbiker BMW Society patch in the mail. Plastidip peels off easy when you are ready to get it done professionally.
-
Orange peel is really hard to prevent. Best to just take your time and put on an extra coat. Wait a day or two and wet sand with 2000 followed by 2500. Then buff it with 3M Perfect It #2  on foam pads with a dual action buffer.
If that was peeling, it is probably a combination of things. First, some contamination before the basecoat. You can't be wiping down too many times. Then, possibly too much reducer in one of the coats and not enough flash time before the next coat. High humidity can sometimes double or triple the time between coats.
If it was a run, you need to go lighter on the coats of clear. Give each one about 15 minutes to flow out and flash before the next. Don't try to get too wet before the last coat, just put down enough to see a film of fresh clear forming. Pay attention to how you are moving the gun. Resist the temptation to go back in the middle of a coat to cover some dry spray.
Factory paint is special with chemical compositions that are very poisonous, but work really nice. It is also applied with guns and robots that cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in specially built paint areas with carefully controlled temperature and humidity. Working as we do with cheap guns and safe paint we have to accept that there is going to be some extra work after the paint goes on.
As far as the comment on water based paint, a lot of shops have been using it for a while now. The paint systems are actually pretty good, but require some adjustments to the application process to accommodate the slower evaporation rate of the water vs. the solvents used in the past. Personally, the solvent based systems seem to work better for me, maybe because I'm used to them, or maybe because they're more tolerant of the conditions I'm painting in. YMMV
-
TMG I am embarrassed to admit the there is no clear coat involved so far, the runs and screw ups I have been getting are just in the basecoat. Researching on the internet it seems the only way to fix runs and problems in the basecoat is to sand it back with 400 grit and start again from scratch. Hence my growing frustration.
-
You can do base in super thin coats, just barely dusting the paint on.
On a lot of the parts I paint I use an airbrush to reduce paint waste from overspray. Sometimes I set it up so light you have to look hard to see what is going out. Don't be in a hurry, lay down 6-7 coats until there is coverage. The important thing to remember is that you don't have to put down wet coats of base like you do with the clear. All you need is to eventually get complete coverage.
-
+1 I've had better results using an air brush than spray cans. A couple of times a year Aldi have a small compressor air brush kit for around $100.00 Au. I kept looking at it but couldn't really justify it. Now that I've got spare bodywork I might be justified in getting it. I'm thinking (hoping) that it doesn't have the same problem my big compressor has with too much water in the air.
Regards Martin.
-
ah ok so I need to set the paint volume really low but keep the fan quite small if I am painting small parts or fan wide as well?
Thanks for the help, I am frustrated but am not the type to give up so I shall give it another go tomorrow - luckily the paint shop is close and open so I can keep getting more if needed - I will end up using 2 gallons to paint the bike at this rate!!
-
That's right, throttle back the flow rate of the paint. Don't worry about the width of the fan. The important thing is that the coverage across the width of the fan is even. Too wide and the center doesn't get as much as the ends. Too tight and the center gets too much.
Technique is important too. First pass with half the fan off the part, and then overlap each additional pass by one half the width. Finish with half off the part. Concentrate on keeping the fan perpendicular to the surface you're painting. Start the flow before you are on the part, and sweep the fan across the part at the same speed all the time.
Martin, I use a Badger model 250 airbrush. I get them used for $12 on ebay. There are adapters that let me run them off my big compressor with the regulator set for 15-20psi. Badger sells 2oz. bottles to replace the 1oz. bottles that come with the brush. It's perfect for blending paint repairs or doing small stuff like mirrors and battery covers. I also use it to supplement the gun for getting into tight places like the vents on fairing lowers. The 250 is easy to set up and clean, and when they break it's no big deal.
-
Gryph before I moved to QLD in Victoria I used to run my airbrush off the Vespa compressor with no problems. However the humidity up here is a pain and water ingress has stuffed things up the couple of times I tried to use it. I really should look into building a water separator, I have also thought about getting some air supply cans from the local hobby shop, if they still sell them. I am going to leave my spare panels as they are until needed. I've painted whole bikes and Go Karts with solid paint colours with no problems. Not real good with big jobs with metallic paints. Down south it wasn't a problem as I had a sponsor who had a paint and panel shop. I should have had lessons when I had the chance, big missed opportunity.
Regards Martin.
-
Moisture shouldn't be a big problem. There are disposable in line air dryers available for around $4-5. You can put one at the end of the air hose where the airbrush connects. Shoot the paint, and throw it away when you're done.
https://www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html?_br_psugg_q=filter
-
Thanks Gryph I'll have a look when I decide to finally, maybe, possibly have another go at painting metallic paint.
Regards Martin.
-
+1 I've had better results using an air brush than spray cans.
Agreed, lots more variables to tinker with to make things just right. I do some bake-on firearms finishes from time to time and airbrush is the way to go.
-
Just one question, is the factory paint enamel or lacquer?
-
Just one question, is the factory paint enamel or lacquer?
My guess is that it's a 2K polyurethane from BASF. Similar to DuPont's Imron. Really nasty stuff, but tough as nails. We used similar stuff to paint boats. Even outdoors, we needed full respiratory gear.
Most of the paint available for repairs is acrylic enamel. It's not as tough as the factory stuff, but is safer to work with and less dangerous to the environment.
-
Thanks Gryph.
Once I get the fiberglass repaired I will need to paint the fairing. I have used Duplicolor Exact Match in some Toyota shade to touch up a mirror. That's lacquer, but it hasn't reacted badly with the existing paint. Actually I held one side panel up next to my Rav4 and that color is pretty darn close. Gotta be easier to find than 680 King's Blue.
Duplicolor also makes a metallic blue in their Paint Shop line. That's also a lacquer, but with a urethane clear coat it should hold up.
-
Blitz, clear it with SprayMax 2K clearcoat in a rattle can. Shake the hell out of it before and after you punch the red button. Follow the directions for flash and dry times, don't try to rush the coats.
After a couple days, wet sand any runs and orange peel with 1200 followed by 2000 or 2500 and buff up to a nice shine.
Two cans should do the fairing and maybe have a little left over. Once the button is pushed the pot life is rated at 48 hours. That can be extended to 5 days by putting the can in the freezer to slow down the chemical reactions.
-
Progress, at least I think so.
No runs this time. However quite a lot of orange peel, is this normal in a basecoat or does it mean I went too far in turning down the paint flow? I did three light coats.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIbAmSqQIu4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIbAmSqQIu4)
-
What are you using for paint? I have never seen a base coat go on with a shine like that? Are you using a base/clear system?
What speed reducer are you using? I'm thinking a slow reducer is what you should be using.
How much are you mixing? Most of the base coats I use have a 1:1 reduction, 1 part paint to 1 part reducer.
Are you adjusting the delivery to have a spray that lays down a semi-transparent layer of paint. The gun should be almost putting out a mist of invisible droplets that makes a very light layer of paint with each pass.
How many coats are you putting on? I get my best results with at least three VERY LIGHT coats.
I don't know what gun you're using, but I would guess that you need something in the range of 40-45psi or 3 bar of pressure. Adjust the regulator with the gun's trigger pulled all the way in.
I would strongly suggest that you spend an evening on YouTube watching videos explaining how to set up a paint gun. There is a lot of good information there. Look for similar tips among many videos. That will help filter out the weird stuff.
Right now, try wet sanding what you have put down with 1000-1200. That will get rid of the orange peel and provide some "tooth" for the clear. Be careful not to sand through the edges, in fact, you might want to avoid hitting them with any more than a single pass to scuff them a just a little bit.
-
OK let me go through the questions and try and answer them one by one.
I am using standard reducer at a 1:1 ratio
The paint is called Yaku maxytone automotive paint and the reducer is by innocolor. They both came from the local professional automotive spray paint store as did the clear which I have not even opened yet. I actually took the brick to the store with me and spoke to the guy who mixed the paint up for me and that is what he gave me.
Yes, I would say the paint flow is pretty fine, I had to double check anything was coming out at all. The gun paint volume screw has a total travel of four and a half turns and I have it two and a half turns in towards fully closed. Before my next attempt I will take a quick video of the fan and paint quantity to post with the results
The fan I had set to about half way of the full travel of the adjusting knob as well.
I put three coats on the belly pan in the video. I think that came to 3 fluid ounces of paint plus three more of reducer for the K1100 style belly pan.
I am using a Astro Evo-T LVLP gun with a 1.4mm tip that runs at 1.9 bar.
I have watched a ton of Youtube videos but will watch some more.
I will try and other panel tomorrow with even less paint flow.
Thanks very much for all the help.
-
I assume the reducer is the right one for the temperature you are painting at. I'm guessing the temperature is running 30C. At that temperature it's usually recommended to use a slow reducer.
I have no experience with the paint you are using. I have to look up the data sheet on the interweb.
Same with the gun. The pressure sounds a bit low, but I am used to cheap guns that require more pressure for good atomization. Are you reading the pressure at the gun, or at the compressor? What size hose? Pressure drop with a lot of flow can reduce the pressure at the gun by as much as 0.5 bar which can really mess up the atomization even if the flow is throttled way back.
6oz. of reduced base sounds about right for the belly pan. It's odd that it looks so thick in the video. I am at a loss at how to explain it.
I will do some reading this evening.
-
Practice on something else until you are comfortable with the results.
Regards Martin.
-
I have a pressure gauge on the base of the gun and am reading the pressure with the trigger fully depressed, The 1.9 bar is what the manufacturer recommends for the gun. It is far from a high end gun but nor is it a total cheapo piece of garbage - it was about $110.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-EVOT14-EuroPro-Forged-Plastic/dp/B00HZBX0VI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=astro+evo&qid=1587677066&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/Astro-EVOT14-EuroPro-Forged-Plastic/dp/B00HZBX0VI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=astro+evo&qid=1587677066&sr=8-2)
The video was taken very close up, maybe two or three inches from the surface, also the paint was laid down this morning was maybe it will float out a bit more overnight (though I doubt it)
One other thing I am trying to keep the gun an even 6-8 inches from the surface when I am spraying.
The temp when spraying was not as high as 30C but close, maybe 27C with pretty high humidity. I am painting outside under an awning with plastic hung up on the sides.
-
High humidity can be a problem even with the higher temperatures. I painted in the top end of Australia and orange peel was a problem 9 months of the year, it was only the dry season with the humidity down around 50% that we could get good results without a booth.
-
honestly I can live with a little orange peel - as long as there are not huge runs and sags I think it will be ok. I will do a couple more panels in the morning, but maybe try a little later in the day when the heat has burned off more of the morning dew etc - worth a try anyway
-
Is the paint Yaku or Yatu? I can find a Yatu Maxytone automotive paint. Made in China. Is that what you have?
https://yatu-car-paint.en.made-in-china.com/product/DXfQdwLlAYcS/China-Maxytone-1K-Basecoat-Car-Paint.html
Crossover from mid to slow reducer is 30C.
No idea of what they recommend for mixing ratio.
Pressure is listed as 2.2 to 4.4 kg/cm2 which I think is 1.9 to 3.8bar(28 to 55psi).
Flash time 15-20 minutes between coats.
Found the gun on Amazon, Looks like a decent mid range gun. Looking at questions it appears some users are getting good results at a supply pressure around 40-45psi.
Martin has a good idea for getting some practice on a scrap. In the boat yard we had a piece of heavy duty glass about 9x12 inches. When we set up a gun we test shot on the glass. The glass makes it easy to see what the pattern is, and it's easy to wipe clean with a rag wet with solvent.
About gun settings, do you have the air volume control wide open? That is the knob next to the air inlet. If not, open it up.
Set the pressure at 35-40psi with trigger pulled all the way back.
Set the fan control to about mid-range. Close off the flow control, and open it up about 1 turn.
Shoot a quick burst about 8 inches from a surface. A newspaper will work. Begin to adjust the fan and the flow to get a fan width about 8 inches with a very light coat of paint. Open the flow and adjust the fan so a quick burst makes a vertical line 8 inches long, about 2 inches wide and has very uniform paint delivery over it's entire length. No blob in the middle, or heavy out at the ends with little in the middle.
Take a sweep with the trigger pulled and see if you leave a nice uniform film with no horizontal streaks. Fine tune the fan to get rid of the streaks if there are any.
When the fan leaves a uniform pattern when you sweep over the surface take a really close look at the paint film. Are the droplets almost invisible? You may find you need more pressure to fully atomize the paint.
This brings us to your compressor. The gun appears to require 9.5 to 11.5cfm to work properly. That is a lot of air. How big is the tank on your compressor? It usually takes a pretty big compressor to supply 10-11cfm for any length of time. You can get by with a smaller unit, but you really want to be able to lay a coat on your biggest part before the pressure at the gun drops below 40psi. Among other things, you have to keep an eye on the pressure and stop when it drops below the setting on your regulator.
If you find yourself running out of air, you need to sweep the gun faster and use more coats, otherwise the coverage and atomization won't be uniform from the start to the end of the coat.
-
About air delivery: If your compressor fills that tank to 120psi and your regulator is set to 45psi, a 20 gallon tank will hold about 5-6 usable cubic feet of air.
At 10cfm that will give you about 30 seconds of spray time before you have to stop to let the compressor catch up. A bigger tank gives you more time, and a smaller tank will give you less.
Putting down base coat, 30 seconds should be more than enough time for any parts you will be painting. For clear, you can still do it, but you need to be very careful with how fast you are sweeping so you don't run out of air. For the clear you might want to set up the gun for maybe 30-35psi. The lower the pressure, the less airflow, and the more usable air in the tank.
-
Yep that is the paint I have.
They shop I brought the stuff from actually wrote 1:1 on the reducer can.
I will change the supply pressure, I have it set higher than that. The air inlet was not wide open, I will do that. Basically there are three ways of controlling the air pressure from the compressor. The first is on the compressor itself and is set to 95 psi because that is the most my other air tools are set for.
The second is on the pressure gauge I have installed on the bottom of the gun and the third is on the gun itself. I will open up the one on the gun and use the one on the gauge to set a pressure of 1.9 bar when the trigger is pressed.
The tank is 120 gallons but I am not sure of the cfm, I got it used and have not been able to find info on the specific model on the web. However it seems to run at around 100 psi when I am shooting, it is filling almost running but the pressure does not drop that low.
I do have a sheet of paper taped up to test fine and paint etc, I will do a video tomorrow before shooting again. One of my issues is because I am new and do not have much space I am painting only one ro two parts at a time then have to clean the gun etc before trying again so keeping the settings consistent is an issue.
I think I need to leave more time between coats as well, I did the three today as almost one constant coat starting on oen side covering the part giving it a quick look then doing it again. I will leave more 10 minutes between tomorrow.
-
1:1 is good if that's what the supplier specs.
120 gallon tank is great! that should have more than enough capacity.
Leave the compressor regulator set for 95psi. Set the pressure on the regulator at the input to the gun to 2.6bar. I don't understand the pressure regulator on the gun itself. None of the guns I've used in the past had one.
"I think I need to leave more time between coats as well, I did the three today as almost one constant coat starting on one side covering the part giving it a quick look then doing it again. I will leave more 10 minutes between tomorrow."
That is you problem. The tech sheet says 15-20 minutes between coats to flash off. 10 minutes is too soon. Because of the humidity, you need to go closer to 20 minutes.
If you're worried about paint drying in the gun, I would do this: Get a gallon jug of lacquer thinner and an empty gallon jug. As soon as you finish painting, dump the cup back into the paint can. Pour about 125ml of the lacquer thinner in the paint cup and slosh it around a bit.
With the air disconnected, pull the trigger and let the thinner run out the nozzle into the empty jug. When it all runs through, connect the air and put a 125ml in the cup and spray it through. Catch some of it on a rag, and use the rag to wipe off the surface of the gun. When the cup is empty wipe the inside of the cup and set the gun aside for the next coat.
When you fill the gun for the next coat, a couple seconds of spray will flush out any of the remaining thinner before you go for the part.
I can't overemphasize how important flash time is to getting a good paint job.
-
After a couple more failed attempts I am beginning to get the hang of it
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-070520141259-316751.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-070520142039-316963.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-070520142057-31702135.jpeg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUW-Zn_4jdU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUW-Zn_4jdU)
Tomorrow I am going to have a go at painting the tank - wish me luck!
-
Looks bad arse
paint scheme is black fairing and chrome bellypan?
-
Thanks, belly pan is black as well just shiny!
-
If it was rocket surgery, for sure I couldn't do it. Looks like you have it figured out.
Interesting to hear what you're doing.
-
Pretty much what you suggested I do.
Less paint per coat, worrying less about getting too much coverage with the colour and putting the clear coat on after 10 minutes drying time for the colour.
I was always a bit tentative before so I tried to be more decisive and positive with the painting motion etc.
I have a few its of garbage dropped on the clearcoat and a couple of minor runs but nothing I cannot fix.
-
Nice job! That sucker is gonna look GOOD!
-
Looking great, let me know when to send you my upper fairing!
-
I did a couple more parts yesterday and one tragkorp cover and one mirror housing reacted badly to the paint. I assume there was some rattle can in their previous lives or something. Anyway that meant I had to sand back the paint I had put on, get some primer, spray that and then repaint. I decided if I was going to prime something I might as well go ahead and do the tank as well. So that is what I did today. Tomorrow I will sand back the primer and hopefully paint the last pieces of body work. Then it is just a matter of waiting a couple of days for the clear coat to harden then I can sand and buff everything to what will hopefully be a mirror finish!
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-090520203419-3190777.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-090520203419-3190267.jpeg)
-
Did you prime the mirror? It almost looks like you put a heavy coat of base on Rustoleum enamel without allowing enough time to flash off. Mirrors take a lot of abuse, and I wouldn't be surprised if a previous owner fixed it with some rattle can paint from the hardware store.
Wet sand it down with 220, prime and try again. Other than that, your work is looking pretty good.
-
Well after much sanding and polishing and a few more false starts it is finished
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/3/3823-240520183449-32402140.jpeg)
It looks great from five feet, not so much from 12 inches but overall for my first attempt at painting I am pleased.
-
. . . overall for my first attempt at painting I am pleased.
This is what it looked like 1376 posts earlier. You should be pleased. icon_cheers
-
Thank you Laitch, one of the most rewarding things is that prior to getting the brick my wrenching experience consisted entirely of being able to change a car tyre and check the oil...
I have really enjoyed the process of learning to work on the bike and the ability to do so has given me the confidence to work on my own cars and my other bike as well.
A huge thanks to Motobrick and all the people on it for that!
Now to get some miles on my amazing 30 year old machine...
-
Nice job! Just remember that a paint job is the process of protecting a surface from the elements while exposing it to criticism.
-
I plan to ride as fast as possible and stop as little as possible to avoid people so I do not have to deal with too much close inspection.
I call it social distancing - I doubt it will catch on though - oh wait...
-
:laughing1:
More fun that agonizing over a paint job!
-
Couple of questions that I might have missed in the previous posts:
1. You are using a clear coat as the final? You mentioned it but as though it were an option.
2. Are you using a hardner in addition to the reducer? Specifically in the clear coat assuming you did use a clear coat.
-
Yes I did use a clear coat on top of the basecoat. I use standard hardener and some thinnner in a ratio of 4:1:1 ie 4 parts clear and one each of thinner and hardener.
I was pretty worried about spraying the clear but actually it was not too bad. I also discovered that if a grinder make you look like the welder you are not then wet sanding and polishing makes you look like the painter you are not! I was able to completely remove most traces of runs or orange peel.
-
wet sanding and polishing makes you look like the painter you are not! I was able to completely remove most traces of runs or orange peel.
Hey, don't let the cat out of the bag.
-
Yes I did use a clear coat on top of the basecoat. I use standard hardener and some thinnner in a ratio of 4:1:1 ie 4 parts clear and one each of thinner and hardener.
Just checking, In my locale, California, the use of hardner's is apparently no longer allowed. And I was wondering how others are dealing with this. I usually shoot outside and have a homemade but fairly effective positive air feed system to keep me away from the fumes. From your post I'm assuming the hardner is used only in the final, i.e. clear coat. Do others have this issue with not being able to use a hardner and how do they compensate/handle it?
-
Just checking, In my locale, California, the use of hardner's is apparently no longer allowed. And I was wondering how others are dealing with this. I usually shoot outside and have a homemade but fairly effective positive air feed system to keep me away from the fumes. From your post I'm assuming the hardner is used only in the final, i.e. clear coat. Do others have this issue with not being able to use a hardner and how do they compensate/handle it?
I've been using this clear on my bikes. Works well and saves having to clean the gun after small jobs like bike parts. Even though it's 2K it looks like they ship to California. Not being a polyurethane clear, the hardener doesn't appear to create serious levels of cyanide.
So glad I don't live there, according to Prop 65 everything causes cancer in California. Seems like a dangerous place to live.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SprayMax-3680061-2K-Glamour-High-Gloss-Clear-Coat-11-8-oz-1-Case-6-Cans/362071612205