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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: evanwellsk75 on March 08, 2020, 07:07:45 PM
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Hey my clutch cable snapped in the middle of marin county in point reyes. This tiny town on a sunday doesnt have a garage open for another 2 days. Its such a simple thing to cause a conundrum but here we are, is there anyone around that can bring me one. Or does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
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In first gear, push the bike and start it. Time to practice clutchless changes, like truckies do all over the place.
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Hey my clutch cable snapped in the middle of marin county in point reyes. . . . does anyone have any ideas?
Here's a time-tested solution (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=10315.0).
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Yep, that's way safer.
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that johnny motobrick ace fix saved my ass one day. Rode it for like a month after I got the replacement cause it just worked...
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greetings...
once i hooked a bungee to the clutch arm by the exhsust... pulled on it to change gears... that is when i made the kit... and now carry the kit and a spare oe...
rode all the way from johnston ridge observatory at mt st helens to hillsboro... 130 miles... 2up... tugging on the bungee...
if you wanna take the cable out of the jacket you can just tug on the cable... look... take a deep breath... step away... figger it out... go getts something you can tug on...
j o
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Hey, sorry about the radio silence my phone died and I camped out last night. I got the clutchless gear shift down and have put about 30 miles behind me, I tried using the pulley method when it happened but the lever is tighter then hell, or I wasnt pulling on it hard enough. Any ideas why that might be? Did I possibly burn out the clutch somehow?
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Hey, sorry about the radio silence my phone died and I camped out last night. I got the clutchless gear shift down and have put about 30 miles behind me, I tried using the pulley method when it happened but the lever is tighter then hell, or I wasnt pulling on it hard enough. Any ideas why that might be? Did I possibly burn out the clutch somehow?
You smell any smoke? From the clutch I mean? If not pull on that pulley harder
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I havent smelled anything abnormal, I burnt out a clutch before by accidentally over tightening it so I was checking pretty frequently on any acrid smells coming from it. Though I just tried again, hard as a rock. Im starting to think this might be a larger problem than just the cable?
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Op! Sidestand was the issue. Wire and screw clamps here I come!
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Thanks for these updates. Keep them coming. 112350
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Still stuck in santa rosa, no hardware stores seem to have these hillman fasteners so im calling around to repair joints to see if theyd let 2 go. As of now no luck
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I've been carrying a spare clutch cable for the last 20 plus years. It's been used twice, but not on my bike. I do have a tendency to carry a pretty good selection of spares. To be honest besides a couple of flat tyres and the two times I had to use the test light nothing else has been used on my bike. Murphy's Law number 221 is nothing you carry will ever fail. Not shown is spare throttle and clutch cable and a newly added HES. The AM/FM radio has been replaced with wireless ear phones linked to my GPS helmet lock and cable has been replaced with a more compact version.
Regards Martin.

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when you buy replacement cable, buy two.
run the "spare" alongside the new one, grease up the exposed parts and wire-tie the ends out of the way.
you'll never snap another cable again, provided you lube the ends once a year or so.
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more like
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I always lube all my cables with a PTFE lubricant which is compatible with the Teflon lined OEM cables. Some non PTFE based lubricants are not compatible and will actually degrade the lining faster than applying no lubricant at all. WD40 is not a cable lubricant.
Regards Martin.
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Got a used one off a fella here in santa rosa, as far as an emergency kit goes. I had one but decided to store it away in Denver for the winter while I was over seas. Didnt think Id be touching the bike again, but I didn't have a spare clutch cable in that either. Definitely gonna add it when I collect all my things once again.
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Hey so I installed the cable, all is seemingly alright though is doesnt seem like the clutch is engaging fast enough- it feels loose (it wont engage until the lever is almost all the way out). Il walk through my procedure and maybe someone can tell me where I screwed up.
I installed it along roughly the same path as the old one (I couldnt get the metal tube end on the handle side through a piece between the radiator and frame so I went over it.
I lubed up the handle side barrel point. (This is surely why I snapped it in the first place)
I slacked the handle side all the way then adjusted until I had 2.96 in on the lever near the transmission.
I then tightened the transmission adjust bolt just until I had resistance, then stopped.
I readjusted the handle side adjustment screws.
And here I am. It works, but It makes me nervous on hills and for longevity for the clutch.
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greetings...
is this moto oe or delooped... poast up some photos of this moto and include the clutch lever mechanism at the handlebar...
j o
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Here ya are johnny
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You can by this tool off Tills or make one out of a piece of 75mm box.
Regards Martin.
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Hey martin thanks, ive fashioned something similar out of some wire
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Looking good. It is measuring tool for the 3 inches/75mm at the clutch arm/lever
If you have a doubt here is the procedure
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13203.msg117628.html#msg117628 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,13203.msg117628.html#msg117628)
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Right right, smart way to measure around the grommet. Its all well and good, ive measured it a half dozen times now and still the clutch doesnt engage, though theres little freeplay and its quite hard to pull in. I lubed it up some more and its easier to pull in.
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Yeah I have zero free play in my handle bar lever, Ive tried adjusting it both at the handle bar and tranny case. Does this make any sense? The cable came off a k100 so my only thought is maybe its sized differently or the cable was already pretty stretched. But that doesnt really explain the lack of slack coupled with the minute friction zone.
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If your moto has an RT handlebar and that cable is from a stock RS, that could be a problem. Does the cable have some slack? If the cable is too long, that could also cause binding in lever action. You seem to be able to set free cable length so things might be ok.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-110320005406.jpeg)
Here's how I do a basic clutch adjustment on my K75.
- Disconnect the side stand retractor rod by removing its rectangular nut.
- Adjust the free cable length using the hand lever adjuster.
- Loosen then back off the clutch arm bolt from the piston/boot assembly, tighten it until it touches the assembly then lock it.
- Set the hand lever free play to 2–4mm when operated with one finger on the lever.
- Reattach the retraction rod and set it so the stand will retract with a firm—not heavy—pull. Don't sweat this now. Just attach the rod with bare tension and move on.
Clutch cable routing affects ease of pull. Move it around to determine if the pull improves. Lubrication of the clutch arm affects ease of pull. Corrosion might be at play. Oil the pivot if you can.
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all this clutch cable talk has me thinking of putting a spare on the brick. max wants $50+, what about this aftermarket one on fleabay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-CLUTCH-CABLE-K75-K75-C-S-K100-K100RS-K1-Made-by-Venhill-USA-Dealer/222485236799?hash=item33cd274c3f:g:y7oAAOSw~gRVx5yP
best option?
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all this clutch cable talk has me thinking of putting a spare on the brick. best option?
According to tribal lore, just carrying any spare cable is insurance that you won't need it. I've read some good forum reviews of Venhill cables. The ad indicates they'll fit low bars. I'd ask the vendor for tip-to-tip measurements.
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From what I have learned doing graduate work at the school of hard knocks is that the only spare parts that prevent failure are expensive OEM.
There are stories about that aftermarket cables are not as reliable as OEM. An unreliable cable will not prevent the cable on the bike from breaking.
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An unreliable cable will not prevent the cable on the bike from breaking.
Now there's shamanic lore from an irrefutable source. 112350
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so string and / or bailing wire is out?
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According to tribal lore, just carrying any spare cable is insurance that you won't need it. I've read some good forum reviews of Venhill cables. The ad indicates they'll fit low bars. I'd ask the vendor for tip-to-tip measurements.
New message from: ocd_machine Top Rated Seller(1,908Red Star)
Approximately 59 3/4 inches, stock size.
Best regards,
Lyn
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Stock S cable is 1510mm; Venhill is 1518mm so it's in the ballpark for length and it's Teflon lined, too. If you use it, please review it.
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Stock S cable is 1510mm; Venhill is 1518mm so it's in the ballpark for length and it's Teflon lined, too. If you use it, please review it.
I’m going to get it as a spare and hope not to need it but you never know
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. . . but you never know
evanwellsK75 probably wouldn't dispute that.
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I've seen the nipples pull off on non OEM cables. A mate who used my spare when his non OEM cables nipple came off wanted to replace it with a Venhill I declined. A mate of a mate tried the same thing wanted to use my spare and replace it with a Venhill, I declined and he had the longer cable anyhow. I found this site on cable reviews a bit of a mixed bag https://www.amazon.com/Venhill-U01-1-100-BK-Universal-Motorcycle-Clutch/product-reviews/B00O1C26SW
Regards Martin.
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I've seen the nipples pull off on non OEM cables. A mate who used my spare when his non OEM cables nipple came off wanted to replace it with a Venhill I declined. A mate of a mate tried the same thing wanted to use my spare and replace it with a Venhill, I declined and he had the longer cable anyhow. I found this site on cable reviews a bit of a mixed bag https://www.amazon.com/Venhill-U01-1-100-BK-Universal-Motorcycle-Clutch/product-reviews/B00O1C26SW
Regards Martin.
Oh well I already ordered it but going to use it as a spare hopefully if my original breaks it at least get me home without having to clutchless shift it
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My OEM cable is coming up to it's 28th birthday. The key to long cable life is make sure the routing is correct, lube the cable with a PTFE lube, fit a grease nipple to the clutch arm, grease the nipples at both ends, grease the wear points on the lever, and make sure the clutch lever is not worn and catching on the cable. The reason I declined the Venhill swap was they were half the price of an OEM cable, and I had at that point never replaced a OEM cable on my bike. However last year I did have to replace my 27 year old throttle cable.
Regards Martin.
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There's another time-tested solution: carry a spare cable when riding long distance! We used to coil it up inside the headlight shell. But, as much trouble as it is to get the headlight outta these bikes you must find another place.
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Oh well I already ordered it but going to use it as a spare hopefully if my original breaks it at least get me home without having to clutchless shift it
If you don't have confidence using the cable you just purchased as a spare, I suggest you install it when you receive it and use your current cable as a spare. That would serve two purposes. You'd be able to review its fit and performance for us and you would insure having a proven working spare cable for yourself.
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As magical as a unicorn, a few drops of PTFE silky smoothness. For all your clutch cable lubrication needs, use on a regular basis. It is just a wonderful product.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5332-130320024919-2847152.jpeg)
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While working for ESSO in the mid 1980's I was given a can as a trial. I had a sticky Rollador on my garage so I sprayed the runners. On the first lift it shot all the way to the top with no effort. I now only use it on cables, it is just about on it's last legs and I'll have to buy a new can. Really good stuff I've been using on my Brick cables for over 20 years.
Regards Martin.