MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: KJM00 on January 03, 2020, 09:20:25 AM
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Hey Guys! Long time no chat; this one is a rather simple one. (or so I hope) I was getting on my K75s this morning to commute to work as I left my drive way the clutch cable disconnected entirely from the handle/lever. I didn't have a whole lot of time to diagnose exactly what happened, but was planning to buy a new clutch cable and run a new one entirely. I was coming here to make sure that my train of thinking is both correct on this assumption and to ask if you have any tips or tricks on the repair? I was going to crutch on my Clymer manual and hope for the best but you guys are always an amazing resource. I've done a fair amount of my own wrenching over the last ten years, but surprisingly have never had to replace a clutch cable.
I've attached the diagram just for reference, it disconnected from the 'A' and when i looked it looked almost like a seared/severed wire.
Getting to work was a bummer this morning because It's difficult for me to not fixate on wanting to fix the broken clutch.
Thank you very much in advance,
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It sounds like the cable broke right at the barrel on the lever end. It should be obvious if so, probably from lack of lubrication. The barrel rotates slightly when pulled, it should be cleaned and lubed periodically. Route the new one the same, lube the barrel ends, and adjust as per your manual and you should be good to go.
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Unfortunately, can definitely attest the lack of lubrication at minimum from the last 3 years of owning it myself. Really appreciate the insight and will do just that. Thank you.
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While replacing the cable and/or housing, it's cheap PM to install a new clutch lever pivot bushing. Stokester cued me in on this, and it's a part that needed update but since it's never seen, just degrades to an oval and the cable eventually breaks from angular stress. I got one at Morton's for a couple bucks.
Like a lot of moto work, since it's hidden, it'll probably pop up in conversation to help out others.
Cheers
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I put a tiny bit of spline lube on the barrel at the end of the cable once a year when I do the splines. A drop of oil every couple weeks during the riding season as well.
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I'm OCD enough that i pull the clutch every now and then and look to make sure the cable ends are free and rotating and not binding.
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You guys rock, really appreciate it!
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A worn lever can also contribute to the problem.
Regards Martin.
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A worn lever can also contribute to the problem.
Regards Martin.
Yep, if the barrel is too dry for too long, it oblong the hole in the handle and cause the barrel to bind even worse....
Another point to keep lubricated is the pivot pin/bushing of the lever, if it gets dry it can wear and cause the handle to not pull straight, which can bind the works up...
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Here's an easy way to thread the new cable without removing the tank.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y808NLt5bC8)
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Tape the new one to the old one and it should pull through with a bit of to and froing.
Regards Martin.
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That's the procedure my video link was going to show, the link that disappeared (my html needs work).
This link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y808NLt5bC8&t=26s
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A worn lever can also contribute to the problem.
Regards Martin.
There is a nylon bushing that can become oval and cause the barrel to move in the slot when engaging and disengaging the clutch. I think this led to my last clutch cable replacement after I coasted into a Shell station.
I've done it a couple times now and always carry a spare along with duct tape to pull the new one through with the old. The first time I used tape from my first aid kit.