Post by: Cheezits954 on December 30, 2019, 05:26:42 PM
The reason I am posting is to figure out if she is safe to ride around in the mean time, simply avoiding second gear and going 1st -> 3rd. I don't mind it all that much for the time being and honestly would use it as a reason to save up for a k11 trans/paralever swap down the road. This way I can dump money into getting everything else in spec while avoiding transmission rebuild/swap expenses. I would like to avoid doing more damage to the transmission that would shorten the life of whatever it currently is now and getting stranded somewhere. All comments are welcome as I've been soaking up as much info and possible/practical upgrades on this bike over the last month.
I can grab a video/audio of this clipping noise while in second gear if anyone is interested, but my research has me thinking a transmission rebuild is in order. Sucks cause the bike is less then a month old to me still. :(
Post by: Chaos on December 30, 2019, 06:13:34 PM
Post by: billday on December 30, 2019, 06:38:16 PM
Post by: Scott on December 30, 2019, 06:39:47 PM
Why not describe the signs and symptoms for us?I know, I thought i came in on page 2.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 30, 2019, 09:35:48 PM
If that is your problem, the good news is that the repair is a one day job that can cost as little as 15-20 bucks.
Post by: Laitch on December 30, 2019, 09:48:19 PM
. . . my research has me thinking a transmission rebuild is in order. Sucks cause the bike is less then a month old to me still. :(I'm thinking you know even less about what's happening with your moto than I do. Post a useful video. Describe exactly what's happening without emotion. You seem to be shifting from first to third gear but don't describe what happens if you shift—or try shifting—into second.
Post by: Cheezits954 on December 30, 2019, 11:40:14 PM
Why not describe the signs and symptoms for us?
Mostly me being to lazy to go through the whole story after hours of reading up on similar symptoms. So I'll start from the top:
About a week after owning the bike it felt like the gears were sticking a bit during city riding. Mainly it'd be in 2->3 or 3->2 getting stuck and reading as a blank on the dash. It's the first motorcycle I've ever spent extended time on so I assumed I wasn't fully shifting properly as I was still adjusting to the bike. Also I had no idea how old the clutch was and thought that may be contributing.
So two weekends ago I was able to knock out some basic PM on the bike (Spline lube on both ends of the drive shaft, Brake Flush, Transmission/Final Drive Oil change, Oil Pan removal and cleaning & Oil Filter Change) that I am planning to share here with all the photos I took. Most of the riding I was doing was on the lighter side, shifting around 3-4k rpms and occasionally getting into the 6-7k rpms. Seeing that my splines were in good shape gave me some confidence to push the bike a little harder. I also noticed the gears weren't sticking like they used and figured it was a combination of me getting more comfortable with the bike's friction zone and the fresh transmission oil.
So last weekend I'm on the forums soaking up all I can as usual and come across a conversation talking about how this engine is more comfortable north of 6k rpms. Some even singing the praises of what sounded like damn near red-lining. I was hesitant because I knew cars often shouldn't be run like this, but it seemed like motorcycles in general usually run pretty high so I was on board. I did some running around town, mostly highway, and really opened her up. Usually coasting at a min of 5-6k rpms and admittedly quick shifting a few times under the adrenaline rush. I'd only just started getting her in shape and was immediately reminded why I got into this, it was amazing!
Then the next day came. I wanted to got for a quick night ride around town while it was cool out and not to many people on the road. I got as far as around the corner from my apartment and heard what sounded like a chirp or snap as the bike shuddered forward. At first I thought it was the tire slipping as I was going uphill, more like wishful thinking. It happened again and again after hard acceleration and I thought it had to be transmission or drive shaft slipping whenever I would get over 2.5k rpms. So I turned around and went home, to late in the night to start diagnosing.
So two days ago with the holidays finally done I was able to test ride the bike as I was on my way to my buddy's place to dismantle and check the splines again thinking it may have slipped out. I noticed it only made the metal on metal slipping sound and jerk the bike forward in 2nd gear. I rode all the gears equally hard up to about 6k rpms to make sure and none of them gave any issue. I'll grab audio of it in the morning and appreciate you guys taking the time to look into this! Trying to keep this short but wanted to paint the whole picture.
And to quickly answer one question the shifter always felt a little heavy having to almost fully engage it to get the bike to downshift but being able to play in the sweet spot, around 80-85% engaged, for upshifting. I've had the training course bike to compare to and those things were pretty crappy.
Post by: billday on December 31, 2019, 07:31:04 AM
Mostly me being to lazy to go through the whole story
That's how not to get popular around here.
You haven't seen the splines that go in and out of the front of the transmission, have you?
Post by: Laitch on December 31, 2019, 10:10:05 AM
Seeing that my splines were in good shape gave me some confidence to push the bike a little harder . . . . I was able to test ride the bike as I was on my way to my buddy's place to dismantle and check the splines again thinking it may have slipped out. . . . one question the shifter always felt a little heavyWhat will affect shifting ease are the splines on the transmission input shaft that engages the clutch disc hub, and it doesn't seem like you've disassembled the drive line to that extent. You should inspect, clean and lubricate those with high-content molybdenum or graphite paste.
Bricks should be shifted firmly. The transmissions of the Suzuki 250 singles used in many MSF rider courses need much less force to engage. This shifting difficulty might be a combination involving lack of transmission input shaft/clutch hub lubrication, a maladjusted clutch cable and your own inexperience. Once those variables have been reviewed and adjusted by you, if second gear shifting is still problematic, a shift fork or the shift lever engagement within the transmission could be at fault.
Post by: Cheezits954 on December 31, 2019, 02:53:52 PM
In this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOnCTqPwjfQ
I'm in first gear then second gear then slow down to the stop sign and drop back into first which is the loud clunk sound. I then have some room to get the rpms up and get up to second. Towards the end you hear some of the jittering which isn't me on the throttle but the bike slipping in the trans area.
In this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ne7nE7qe4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ne7nE7qe4)
Around the 8 sec mark you can hear the transmission slipping again
Sorry the audio isn't great, texting and driving in a car is hard enough! Luckily it was early outside so nobody was around. Lemme know if this is helpful or if you need more details. I'll start looking into properly adjusting my clutch lever in the mean time. As far as what I used on my other splines: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWBSJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWBSJW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Post by: Laitch on December 31, 2019, 03:45:07 PM
In this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOnCTqPwjfQGo to the Service Manual section here, download the K75_K100 2V manual and find the illustrated pages that will guide you to adjusting the clutch.
I'm in first gear then second gear then slow down to the stop sign and drop back into first which is the loud clunk sound. I then have some room to get the rpms up and get up to second. Towards the end you hear some of the jittering which isn't me on the throttle but the bike slipping in the trans area.
Post by: Laitch on December 31, 2019, 04:46:16 PM
The Loctite you've chosen is good enough for the purpose.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 03:25:16 PM
I also noticed I could stop the noise in 2nd gear if I pulled out the clutch just a slight bit. Almost like riding the friction zone but I can still feel the torque.
Post by: billday on January 01, 2020, 03:49:43 PM
Set the clearance back at the tranny, then adjust the slack in your cable, and you will be good. If you're not good, then you've got an indication that more diagnostics is called for.
BUT: Make a half-hearted stab at it, then give up and set it to whatevs . . . well, you can do that. But if you do that *and* persist in asking the forum for advice, brace yourself for some abuse.
Post by: johnny on January 01, 2020, 03:57:42 PM
you may as well trailor it to liors motoride and have him take care of it... (https://liorsmotoride.com/)
j o
Post by: Past-my-Prime on January 01, 2020, 04:13:37 PM
Hint: there is a detailed clutch adjustment video Watch it and try it out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBW4D2jDw2A
(I'm jealous, with a foot of snow on the ground and the roads not good, aaaaaand my garage is not heated so I can't work on mine!)
Post by: Martin on January 01, 2020, 04:33:41 PM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 04:46:05 PM
Thanks for the video, it does mention in the comments that this technique is not for the k75 but everything he said looks identical to my setup. I'll go through it again and let you know if I notice a difference.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 04:50:19 PM
Tills have a clutch adjustment tool to make the whole process even easier. https://www.tills.de/product-140.html I made a homemade one and it definitely works makes it easier and faster.
Regards Martin.Clutch Adjust Tool.png (44.8 kB . 768x576 - viewed 592 times)
I thought about buying that but wasn't sure if it was worth the money. But if you say it's worth it I'll make one the next time I'm at my buddy's place. It looks easy enough to fabricate.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2020, 05:07:12 PM
You might want to check the oil level in the transmission, and the boot at the pushrod. You shouldn't have oil coming out when you do the clutch adjustment, at least I've never had any come out.
I didn't think the procedure was different for the K75. I have a K75, a K100 16v, and a K100 2v, and all of them have the same clutch adjustment. I wonder what the difference is. Guess I have to watch the video again(it's been a couple years since I watched it the last time).
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2020, 05:20:54 PM
When you have the 3" set, squeeze the lever all the way in and let it snap out. If you hear a clank at the muffler, take up a little of the cable length at the lever by screwing the adjuster out a little. Try the squeeze and release again. Don't take up any more of the cable length than necessary to stop the clanking. It shouldn't take more than a couple mm to stop it.
When that is done, you can then adjust the bolt at the end of the pushrod.
As far as the K75 thing, make sure the sidestand retractor is disconnected before you adjust anything.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 05:24:54 PM
Get the three inches(75mm) first, then adjust the bolt at the pushrod until there is a tiny bit of free play. When that is done adjust the lever for 3-4mm(1/8") free play.
You might want to check the oil level in the transmission, and the boot at the pushrod. You shouldn't have oil coming out when you do the clutch adjustment, at least I've never had any come out.
I didn't think the procedure was different for the K75. I have a K75, a K100 16v, and a K100 2v, and all of them have the same clutch adjustment. I wonder what the difference is. Guess I have to watch the video again(it's been a couple years since I watched it the last time).
I had the lever screw bottomed out to get the 3 in and then adjusted the bolt all the way out to see how far it would go. After it actually came out and trans oil started draining out I quickly put the bolt back in. I tightened that until I met a bit of resistance and secured the locking bolt then gave slack to the lever and again.
As a side note doing some back and forth up my street just now I noticed the rubbing only occurred between 2k-3k rpms. Not sure if adjusting clutch helped or if it was always like this. I have a hill on my street so I'm hesitant to push her in her current condition.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 05:27:27 PM
One more thing regarding the K75. If you have the stock exhaust installed and you set the cable length to 3"(75mm) the clutch arm at the bottom of the cable may be down enough to rattle on the muffler.
When you have the 3" set, squeeze the lever all the way in and let it snap out. If you hear a clank at the muffler, take up a little of the cable length at the lever by screwing the adjuster out a little. Try the squeeze and release again. Don't take up any more of the cable length than necessary to stop the clanking. It shouldn't take more than a couple mm to stop it.
When that is done, you can then adjust the bolt at the end of the pushrod.
As far as the K75 thing, make sure the sidestand retractor is disconnected before you adjust anything.
Well s*** thats good to know! I thought the banging on the exhaust was just bad design or a missing bumper. Also wasn't aware to disconnect the kickstand link. I'll be back in a sec!
Post by: Martin on January 01, 2020, 05:29:24 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2020, 05:34:56 PM
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 05:44:09 PM
Also the line seems to be seated correctly unless it’s supposed to be on the bottom hole, which I thought was for getting the rubber cover out.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2020, 05:59:21 PM
Can you see a BMW part number on the cable? I think it might be at the top end near the lever.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 01, 2020, 09:52:23 PM
Well, don't do what I did -- since that day second gear has been skipping and now I have big s**t to deal with. Was there a correlation between hi-revs in third and the skipping/slipping in second? I can't prove it but one day it didn't skip and then I rode at 7000k in third and the next day it did. So...don't do it.This is the thread where he first mentions it before starting a new one: https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9381.0.html
I'll start a new thread about this skipping in 2nd thing soon when I have some time. Basically I have one transmission that works fine except for the bad input shaft and one transmission that skips in second but has a good input shaft. I want to put the good input shaft into the good gear transmission and take apart the remaining transmission as a science project...more later.
But bottom line -- my bike has been perfectly happy averaging 5k rpms with an occasional whatever 85-90mph on the freeway gets me -- I don't know why I listened to you redline-fetishists!
Any way I know I'm vastly inexperienced with this bike compared to you folks, but I've been pouring over transmission videos and info as I was expecting that to be the problem so not sure how the clutch adjustment could fix much more. I'll start digging into "Grub Screw" conversations till I can get the bike on a lift again.
Also sadly no part number on the cable Gryphon, the whole thing is black with no markings anywhere from the lever down. My bike is registered as a regular K75 but I feel like these handle bars are for a RT/LT or something. Maybe one of the previous owners changed the cockpit or I'm to used to riding drop bar city bicycles?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 01, 2020, 11:20:31 PM
If it is solid, that says the grub screw is okay. That will be one less thing to be concerned about. If you can easily flip it up and down an inch or more the screw is loose and you need to go into the transmission to tighten it.
Post by: Laitch on January 01, 2020, 11:45:11 PM
I'm vastly inexperienced with this bike compared to you folks, but I've been pouring over transmission videos and info as I was expecting that to be the problem so not sure how the clutch adjustment could fix much more.Don't confuse your moto with a drop-bar bicycle and don't use your feelings to identify parts. Your moto is a K75 Standard and that is the OEM bar. It's also known as high bar. I recommend you identify parts by using this fiche (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/partsfiche.aspx). It often has illustrations to differentiate among parts. Now that you know which handlebar is on your moto, you can go to the fiche, click on your model to identify the cable and its part number by the approximate measurement you take of it, but you might not need a new cable, yet.
. . . no part number on the cable Gryphon . . .. My bike is registered as a regular K75 but I feel like these handle bars are for a RT/LT or something. Maybe one of the previous owners changed the cockpit or I'm to used to riding drop bar city bicycles?
When you expect a problem to be caused by a particular reason, you tend to quit considering other reasons that might be in play. That can send you on a snipe hunt. Because you know next to nothing about this moto, it's too early for you to be a credible diagnostician. I'd like you to take some time to record the sound again as you are shifting from first to third and back—without endangering yourself and the public—then post it here.
You wrote . . . hear some of the jittering which isn't me on the throttle but the bike slipping in the trans area. What does that mean.? Slipping—when related to forward motion of a moto—means when the engine revs increase, the ground speed doesn't. Is that what is happening in second gear—or is it just grinding and not engaging at all?
The clutch isn't adjusted by watching the motion of the rear wheel when the moto is on the center stand. Here's what I suggest you do, exactly as written without modification.
- Disengage the clutch cable from the clutch operating lever at the transmission.
- Using the clutch hand lever adjuster, adjust the free cable length to 75mm. That's the length of cable from the nipple at the end of the cable to where the cable enters its sheathing; most of it is covered by the pleated boot (grommet in the BMW instructions).
- Once the cable length is set, tighten the hand lever lock nut.
- Re-engage the cable nipple into the transmission clutch operating lever.
- Loosen the lock nut on the transmission clutch operating lever bolt.
- Loosen the lever bolt until it's a couple of millimeters distant from the clutch piston.
- Screw it in until it just touches the clutch piston but applies no pressure to it. Lock it there using the lock nut.
- At the clutch hand lever measure the free play of the lever. That's the space created between lever and its pivot assembly when the lever is squeezed but isn't applying pressure on the clutch piston. It's measurement A in the diagram.
- Adjust free play at the lever to approximately 4mm. If the lever offers no resistance when pulled with one finger until it takes up that 4mm of slack, it's adjusted correctly.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719020231.png)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050719013525.png)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-110219175800.png)
Maybe there is a problem within the transmission as was previously indicated a possibility. If there is, I suggest you buy a replacement transmission and not get involved with disassembling it. Answer Gryph's question. If that is the problem, there are plenty of references here to consult for its repair if you insist on tackling that.
If this moto was purchased from a licensed vendor, you need to start a legal record of your problem. Email the vendor with a description of the problem and ask for a remedy.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 02, 2020, 12:19:49 AM
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 02, 2020, 12:52:04 AM
When I wrote slipping the best description that comes to mind is: Imagine the drive shaft splines grinding against each other. As if there are still teeth but greatly worn down. It's as if the bike loses power for a brief moment and then regains it, then again and again with a loud grinding noise accompanying the feeling of slightly jerking forward. It's especially scary while turning. I did notice if I power through then it keeps grinding while losing power, but if I reduce the throttle and come back on gradually it will slip catch and slip again until I get to about 3k rpms. After that it's all smooth sailing.
Here is a video of the clutch engagement while on center stand from earlier today, I was waiting for this to upload when I saw your post Laitch not sure if it is helpful. You can at least see the clutch play here, very firm:
https://youtu.be/0-Q6yidN_AQ
Here is the part # for the cable Gryphon: 32 73 2 324 960 CLUTCH CABLE - L=1625MM. I might be able to pull it and check the length before the weekend to be sure it isn't stretched or maybe I should hold off on that?. Sadly I go back to work tomorrow so this weekend I'll be able to go through the steps again from the top so I can be sure. I purchased the bike from a BMW moto dealer about 100 miles south from me. Was assured by a local/lazy? mechanic that the bike should be fine since it's a reputable dealer when I offered to pay him to go check it out ahead of time. Thanks again and Happy New Year!
Post by: Laitch on January 02, 2020, 01:14:35 AM
Shifter is firm . . .When I wrote slipping the best description that comes to mind is: Imagine the drive shaft splines grinding against each other. As if there are still teeth but greatly worn down.I don't know what is meant by Shifter is firm. The clutch hand lever should not be firm for 2.5–4mm until it moves the clutch operating arm forward enough to apply pressure to the piston.
If worn shaft splines are loaded, they'll howl and forward motion will cease. That might be what you're describing. The location of the howl is the question. The splines in the clutch disc could be worn; the transmission input shaft splines could be failing; the rear splined socket of the drive shaft could be failing; the rear drive pinion gear splines could be failing. If the clutch disc is worn out, shifting will be difficult and speed won't increase as it normally does under engine power.
A new clutch cable is low on the list of concerns. Disassembly and inspection is the first order.
Howling splines.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7Pdees1ON8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7Pdees1ON8)
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 02, 2020, 02:10:48 AM
I don't know what is meant by Shifter is firm. The clutch hand lever should not be firm for 2.5–4mm until it moves the clutch operating arm forward enough to apply pressure to the piston.
In the video I posted above is that enough play in the clutch line? Based on space required, I don't have a digital caliper yet, this seemed to be enough free play.
If worn shaft splines are loaded, they'll howl and forward motion will cease. That might be what you're describing. The location of the howl is the question. The splines in the clutch disc could be worn; the transmission input shaft splines could be failing; the rear splined socket of the drive shaft could be failing; the rear drive pinion gear splines could be failing. If the clutch disc is worn out, shifting will be difficult and speed won't increase as it normally does under engine power.
A new clutch cable is low on the list of concerns. Disassembly and inspection is the first order.
After watching Chris's bad spline video the noise coming from that bike is definitely higher pitched then the sound coming from my bike. Thanks for that link btw, forgot he had a video of bad splines running. My bike vibrates and shudders forward, that bike looked to be sitting pretty still. Also my bike only makes noise and vibrates around 2-3k rpms only. Maybe the spline reference wasn't helpful. I'll grab audio asap!
The sound is definitely coming from between the drive shaft to transmission area and engine to clutch area. Included some photos of when I did the teardown of the driveshaft to check the splines. I didn't get an after photo when I cleaned the DS but there is a picture of it with whatever grease was already on it and it looked pretty good. Also I noticed a strange groove on the bottom of where the spline mounts. I was afraid I may not of securely placed the DS to the trans after using a rubber hammer on it, but after seeing that video I'm thinking it's unlikely.
Post by: Laitch on January 02, 2020, 07:45:36 AM
Did you check the universal joint for freedom of movement and excessive play? A failing u-joint could account for vibration but wouldn't result in loss of power until it finally broke.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 02, 2020, 09:56:28 AM
The spline photos look good, so I doubt that is the source of the problem. I asked you to check the transmission oil level, did you do that? It may be a very good idea to drain the transmission to see if there is any metal in it. Put some new oil in and keep the old stuff to show the dealer where you got the bike.
With the condition of the splines and the fact that the problem only occurs in 2nd gear makes me think the transmission is the problem. Right now my money is on a shift drum problem, bent shift fork, or bad dogs. None of these problems are going to be easy or cheap to fix, so I would be planning on talking to the dealer who sold me the bike. There should be some sort of warranty on it, and the clock is running on the time you have to get back to the dealer.
At this point, if the bike has a warranty, it looks like you have three choices: return the bike for a refund, have the dealer repair it, or negotiate a partial refund to cover the cost of you doing the work to replace the transmission. The good news for you is that there are several bike breakers in southern Cali who should have readily available used transmissions you could use. I would make calling the dealer the next thing I do on this bike.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 03, 2020, 01:28:11 PM
Gryhon: I was able to pull up the part number of the clutch cable but looking at the cable itself I was not able to actually find any markings whatsoever. That's why I mention measuring it to compare the length to factory spec.
I did check the oil and it almost appeared to have a "sparkle" to it. Nothing major but something that I did keep an eye out for and noticed. I was originally looking for chunks of metal but only came across about a half peas worth(for lack of better description) of metal attached to the magnet. I should've grabbed a photo but didn't think that far ahead at the time. I cleaned the magnet and then threw the oil back in topping off with about a 1/4 of the remaining trans oil I had in the bottle. Should add up to a liter total, I will check level in the morning, as well as drain and get new oil. Keeping the old as evidence as you mentioned.
Sadly no warranty, though I'm curious if Lemon Law apply's here. I specifically asked if warranty was included/available and was told that they don't offer one especially since the bike was so old.
My thinking was that gremlins were inevitable, appreciate you shedding light. Fortunately the bike has had no other issues. If you think I have a fighting chance I'm very willing to look at all my options.
Post by: Laitch on January 03, 2020, 02:13:40 PM
Fortunately the bike has had no other issues.Was the transmission output shaft clipped into the driveshaft's front joint and the shaft needed force to separate it from the output shaft?
Did you find the various clutch cable lengths in the parts fiche and compare their length with the one on your moto? I not convinced you need one though. :-)
Have you inspected the clutch boot for tears?
Do you see that cracked plastic cover on the the rear of the transmission? That should be preventing water from affecting the gear position indicator switch beneath it. If you don't clean the switch and repair the cover, the switch is likely to malfunction if it hasn't already.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-030120140903.jpeg)
Let's have another sound file of the unidentified noise.
Post by: Scott on January 03, 2020, 02:29:59 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 03, 2020, 02:32:46 PM
Gryhon: I was able to pull up the part number of the clutch cable but looking at the cable itself I was not able to actually find any markings whatsoever. That's why I mention measuring it to compare the length to factory spec.
The reason I asked was to confirm that you had the correct cable. Every BMW cable I have come across has the part number printed on it. If what you have is an aftermarket copy, there are no guarantees it is the correct length to allow proper clutch adjustment.
I still think you have a transmission issue, probably associated with the dogs for 2nd gear, or the shift forks.
May I ask how much you paid for this bike? You probably need a replacement transmission. I see a number of them on eBay for under $200 and many of them have gear position indicator switches that look to be in better condition than yours. That switch alone in used condition could cost as much as $100 itself.
Let's hope that your clutch is still okay.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 03, 2020, 03:36:46 PM
Was the transmission output shaft clipped into the driveshaft's front joint and the shaft needed force to separate it from the output shaft?Yes it need to be removed with force. A bit more force then I was expecting. I was glad to have removed the swing arm ahead of time so I could get a proper grip and leverage.
Did you find the various clutch cable lengths in the parts fiche and compare their length with the one on your moto? I not convinced you need one though. :-)
Have you inspected the clutch boot for tears?
Do you see that cracked plastic cover on the the rear of the transmission? That should be preventing water from affecting the gear position indicator switch beneath it. If you don't clean the switch and repair the cover, the switch is likely to malfunction if it hasn't already.
Let's have another sound file of the unidentified noise.
I didn't pull the one from my bike yet so haven't had the chance to compare. I'd like to avoid the trouble of having to re-route it under the tank, at least till the weekend.
The boot is in good shape, I used engine degreaser and tissue to clean in the bell housing as best as I could for now. I plan to take apart and give the outside a real deep toothbrush and scrub wash eventually. But for now I the boot appears leak free.
Good to know about the switch, the plastic was had to the touch and on there pretty solidly. But for sure that's gonna have to come off.
Sound file will be in on Sat.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 03, 2020, 03:41:46 PM
This is the proper procedure to check the gearbox oil if you don't have a manual. The blue one that came with the bike, if it did, is quite helpful as owners manuals go.
I currently have a pdf of the:
BMW Motorrad GmbH + Co. Service Department
dated: 4.1988 scann: 12.2011 Order No: 01 51 9 798 791
BMW K100 & 75 Owners Workshop Manual
by Jeremy Churchill
Haynes Publishing Group
(Also printed in a binder)
Rider's Manual
US Models K75, K75S, K75RT
(Also a booklet that came with the bike)
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 03, 2020, 03:50:59 PM
May I ask how much you paid for this bike? You probably need a replacement transmission. I see a number of them on eBay for under $200 and many of them have gear position indicator switches that look to be in better condition than yours. That switch alone in used condition could cost as much as $100 itself.
Let's hope that your clutch is still okay.
The bike was listed for $2,300 and out the door I paid a total of $2,600. I got the bike from Escondido BMW about 100 miles south of me and rode it all the way back to LA without any issues.
I was actually planning to get a used transmission and YouTube the entire procedure of repairing whatever issue is wrong with the old one. Part learning experience part creating some HD content for others to learn from. That's why I was originally asking if I can limp along for now skipping second gear till I could get the second trans or if I should just bite the bullet and get one ASAP.
On the next tear down I was planning to check the clutch to see how much bite it had left.
Post by: Laitch on January 03, 2020, 04:10:03 PM
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 03, 2020, 05:12:32 PM
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 04, 2020, 10:48:26 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKww9NgCNzc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7V1ERZkEUk
Was riding around today for over an hour and second gear was pretty unpredictable. Sometimes it would grind in low rpms, sometimes just over 4k rpms. For sure I think the safest best would be to swap the trans. Def on the shopping list next. Gonna work on intake and timing first since I've already ordered some things to get that squared away (compression check/vacuum adjusting/valve clearance). Water pump rebuild after that since summer heat is coming soon.
Post by: johnny on January 04, 2020, 10:52:26 PM
if it was mine... i just keep the revs above 4500...
j o
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 04, 2020, 11:00:27 PM
Post by: johnny on January 04, 2020, 11:05:57 PM
embrace it... hawt wimmins on ducatis at newcombs ranch will.take notice...
j o
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 04, 2020, 11:16:31 PM
If you are dead set on working on the cooling system, give it a good flush, and clean the dead bugs out of the radiator fins. Refill with 60/40 water/anti-freeze mix and spend your time and money elsewhere.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 05, 2020, 01:05:50 AM
greetings...
embrace it... hawt wimmins on ducatis at newcombs ranch will.take notice...
j o
I can't wait to add the neon lights and airhorn. Like moths to the flame man!
Why are you messing with the water pump? Is it overheating? Are you seeing water in the oil?
If you are dead set on working on the cooling system, give it a good flush, and clean the dead bugs out of the radiator fins. Refill with 60/40 water/anti-freeze mix and spend your time and money elsewhere.
I'm surprised at this. I get the adage if it ain't broke blah blah blah but this machine is old enough to buy booze and has never had a proper gut check. From many of the videos I've seen online spline and water pump seem to be two areas that have needed the most work. This trans headache is the real curve ball for me, not looking forward to anymore surprises. I was thinking to rebuild then flush it.
Post by: natalena on January 05, 2020, 02:52:22 AM
Looking for problems will end up being a self-fulfilling prophecy, and often the problems aren't true issues to deal with.
FWIW, If idle hands worry you, $14.00 of Deoxit and brushes to clean all electrical connectors and attachments will get you through the harsh winter. Good Luck, being fastidious is a good trait, but can certainly go overboard.
Post by: Laitch on January 05, 2020, 07:14:48 AM
I'm surprised at this. I get the adage if it ain't broke blah blah blah I was thinking to rebuild then flush it.You shouldn't be surprised. This caution is delivered repeatedly throughout the pages of this forum. Blah, blah, blah it isn't; it's experience speaking.
Go ahead. This is your baby. Pull the pump, rebuild it then flush the debris from a neglected cooling system through it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2020, 08:11:21 AM
I've had 5 bricks now and have yet to be blessed with a bad pump(knock on wood). My advice is to do a flush, clean the fins and let sleeping dogs lie. Spend your time and money where the problems are.
Post by: BrickDad on January 05, 2020, 12:20:12 PM
Tills have a clutch adjustment tool to make the whole process even easier. https://www.tills.de/product-140.htmlThis is a great German site, new to me. Thanks Martin!
Regards Martin.
Post by: Cheezits954 on January 06, 2020, 01:24:17 AM
I'll hold off on the water pump and start with a flush as mentioned above, getting gunk out first. Will try to post work done so far before I jump back in next weekend. (will also check on clutch condition while under her).
Thanks TMG, I saw a video from The Illestrator and mikeyfrompiha both having same water pump issues. Most of my knowledge on the pump is from there, I'll dig here as well to see what to look out for.