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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Thomas on December 06, 2019, 11:53:27 AM
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Hi All, New here! Bought a 1991 K100RS, about a year ago. Had to have some work done on it before it was road worthy. Soon after getting on it for the first ride. I discovered it wants to fall over when trying to turn around slow. Or when you come up to a stop sign, or behind a car. Is this normal for this bike?? I can't believe that it is! I was trying to turn around in a parking lot, at a campground I was staying at. The damn thing started to go over! I couldn't stop it from going! Threw me on the ground! Messed my leg up pretty good! I love the bike when I get it moving. But, this feet down turning issue, ain't good!! Anyone else having or heard of this problem?? If so, I'd appreciate any ideas of what is causing it. And how to fix it. If I can't figure it out, and straighten it out come spring. I'm afraid it will go back on Craig's List. I'm 67 yrs old...can't be doing this tipping over stuff any more!! Thanks for any thoughts about this!! PS: Come spring I'll be replacing the steering head bearings, and fork seals.
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greetings...
the reason your motobrick wants to fall over is because the forces of top heavy balance and gravity...
its same thing for slow manuvering plus the forces of motorcycle gyroscopic effect...
look... the goal is to be able to do slow figger 8s in a space of 4 parking spaces... start with 8 spaces and get it down to 4... it takes counterbalance slipping clutch back brake...
you do that daily until its involuntary... then you can pull a fog line to fog line u turn on a narrow country road feets on pegs one fluid manuver...
look here... www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,154.msg174.html#msg174
setts you up a cone course in a parking lot... you can getts the layout here... www.msf-usa.org
its a crazy world... butts you already knew that...
j o
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K bikes tend to be a little top heavy and that's exaggerated if you're short of inseam or weak/bad knees. There are some tricks for lowering the bike, that may help. Otherwise it's just something to adapt to or buy something less tippy.
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There are techniques for slow manoeuvring. There are multiple sites showing how on the web, once viewed find a large flat area and practice. In OZ there are also courses that you can do on both high speed and slow speed very worthwhile. Are you able to flat foot? If not there are various things that you can do.
Regards Martin.
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Avoid using the brakes when moving slowly with the front wheel turned, especially the front. Also, make sure the throttle position sensor is adjusted properly and the throttle bodies are balanced to minimize notchy throttle response.
Have you checked the fork oil? Changing the oil and adding the proper amount helps a bit with the front end dive that contributes to slow speed drops.
Also, look at things you can do to lower the bike. If you can find one, Worx performance shocks, can be rebuilt and lowered at the factory for a reasonable price. I have my K75 lowered 1/2" with a Worx shock and the forks pushed up in the triple clamps.
Having said that, I still have a drop every year or so. I look at it as part of the K bike experience. I ride about 8-10,000 miles a year. I'm 71 and 6' tall and like to think I still have another five or six years of riding left in me.
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Try here for a training course.https://dmv.vermont.gov/young-drivers/vermont-rider-education-program-vrep There are heaps more sites dedicated to slow manoeuvring. https://www.ridinginthezone.com/how-to-ride-a-motorcycle-slowly/
Regards Martin.
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Hi All, New here! Bought a 1991 K100RS, about a year ago. Soon after getting on it for the first ride. I discovered it wants to fall over when trying to turn around slow. Or when you come up to a stop sign, or behind a car.
Come spring, let's get together and see about improving this. Your youth and experience won't bother me. In the meantime, this is how it's done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zluOSO-0aU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zluOSO-0aU)
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I have 1990 K100Rs16v and at 71 find I have to be careful,although no problem at walking speed up over it can(especially with full fuel tank)catch me out when paddling around garage or whatever.If it tips past a certain point I cannot stop it and need help to lift it back up but I have never had any issues pulling up to a stop at junctions etc.If memory serves me correctly there were some "drops" when paddling about by journalists on the K1 launch and it is nearly the same bike apart from cosmetics.
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Make sure the handlebar is straight when stopping, and you won't be dropping it anymore at stop signs. The video's are good, I think the best tips with turning is practice slipping the clutch to get the lean angle right, look ahead and counterbalance with your body.
I recon to be initiated into Brickdom you have to have dropped it at least once on the right hand side. My five bricks all have before I got them and I've done a few too. It's the "schmiss" of Brickdom, I wear the battlemarks with pride on the right hand crash bar.
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It gets better. Mine has gotten tired and needed a nap occasionally; probably half a dozen or so times in 23 years. Always at slow speed. I can u-turn it on a narrow road but it takes some active leaning and judicious throttle.
This is a bike you need to "stay ahead of" and know where it's going.
I think I've had it go over twice when I was astride it. The rest of the time when I'm getting it onto the centre stand and am not quite centered.
It's a price I'm willing to pay for a bike that feels so right any time I'm over parking lot speeds.
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Hey Everyone, I want to thank you all for your reply's!! I've learned a couple of thing here. One, I've got to live with the top heavy feeling of this bike. Two, learning about the friction zone!! I've watched a couple of the video links already. Very interesting!! I have ridden several bikes over the 50+ yrs. that I have been riding! Have to admit...I have never used the friction zone in quit the way these gentleman have explained. Looking forward to spring! Getting the new steering head bearings and fork seals installed. And putting the friction zone theory to work for me!! Thank You all again!! PS: Liking this forum!!
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The dry clutch makes it a bit more difficult. Using second gear is another option as is shifting your butt to the outside of the turn.
The instructors at the Motorcycle Safety School Open House Rodeo are always telling me to turn my head further into the turn.