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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Areshuan on September 01, 2019, 03:34:39 PM
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Here is a little video i manage to make. 3 stop and go . You can here a Rattling, clattering noise when accelerating from 1000 to 1600 RPM. Must noticeable in first gear, But its also present in second gear.
Any ideas?
https://youtu.be/1fuhcg3hE2Q
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greetings...
new pluggs new wiors new fuel filter bottles of techron and no corn ethyl for a few tanks... then throttle body sync... set idle at 950 rpm... then stop your freaking and commence motobricking...
j o
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Greetings johnny!
Gas tank new, new pump, new filter , now hoses, new spark plugs ...... I haven't change the wires.
I also have some vacuum leaks .Waiting for the vent hose and CHAMBER TO THROTTLE BODY RUBBERS.
I though this might be something related to timing belt.
Would you discard that ?
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The timing chain uses a oil pressure tension mechanism, and there is a plastic rail guide that can wear.
How many miles on the bike.
It's possible that between the wear of the chain guide and if the chain is stretched a bit, that the tension mechanism could be at it's outer limits an unable to keep the timing chain tight.
It is also not unheardof for the oil ports in the tension mechanism to plug up, the results being that the chain guide does not get oil applied to it directly and it wears quicker.
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From what I hear in the third example of your takeoff on the video, you don't seem to be using enough throttle; consequently, the engine is lugging. That will produce rattling in a Brick. Also, you're probably shifting into the next gear at revs and speed that are too low. Combining that technique with an engine that needs a tuneup will produce rattles galore.
Give her more revs, but not enough to do a wheelie on takeoff.
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From what I hear in the third example of your takeoff on the video, you don't seem to be using enough throttle; consequently, the engine is lugging. That will produce rattling in a Brick. Also, you're probably shifting into the next gear at revs and speed that are too low. Combining that technique with an engine that needs a tuneup will produce rattles galore.
Give her more revs, but not enough to do a wheelie on takeoff.
Amen to Laitch says... you absolutely don't want to lug these engines. Can they take it, yes. Will they take it for a long time, most likely not....
When I got my 1st K bike, I was easy on the rev's and shifted to soon to keep rev's low(like with my previous V-twin)..... eventually led to burnt valves.....I learned the hard way.
The power band, AKA sweet spot for these K-bike engines is between 4000 and 5000 rpms..
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Thanks for the reply. The bike has 35.000 km (22k miles). But was sitting for 17 years.
I never thought about the revs. Makes sense.
She is also consuming oil. Those spark plugs have 1000 kms.
I think the valves rubber seals might be hard because of age.
I added some AT-205 re-seal liquid. And it seems to be working a bit.
Haven’t check the timing belt yet.
Will ride it at higher revs!
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These engines do consume oil.
Even more if parked on the side stand all the time.
Physics at work here... with the head being on the left side it naturally will collect oil from the pistons when the bike is leaned left on the side stand. The oil that is splashed up inside the pistons will leak thru the rings toward the plugs/valves when setting at that angle. Then when you start the engine it burns off this oil...
Seafoam and MMO are a good engine oil additive to help clean up the inside of the engine. The rings, starter sprag clutch, timing chain, etc... all will benefit from treatment and regular oil changes.
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After sitting for that amount of time rings can take a while to free up. Apparently as per Scott MMO and seafoam can help free up rings. We don't have access to either of those. However a mate successfully gradually freed his rings up by using high detergent oil. He used it for around 1000 K's then went back to his normal oil. As he got more miles under his belt the consumption lessened.
Regards Martin.