Post by: Rcgreaves on June 22, 2019, 10:54:49 PM
The world seems a more lovely place knowing a Motronic equipped, 4 puck Brembo, liter + brick can be had and potentially road/track worthy for under a grand.. Anyway that’s my goal.
Did I mention the near complete tool kit, pristine (French bread basket luggage...) tragkorbs..tragborgs,whatever, and Michelin Pilot radials with plenty o Tread? “Score!”.
I’m scratch building a hack BTW, see the sidecar forum, maybe once sorted this will end up married to my creation. I’m hard pressed to consider carving up my K75S fairing for a hack. Some own sculpture, I appreciate these sculpted fairings, and the RS is no slouch, great profile!
So the battery was toast as per normal. Online Amazon Westco source was only $80 but I spotted a sealed unit at Walmart $95. Unearthing the battery is a project: it’s buried under the Motronic fuel injection controller, connectors require time, coffee and patience. At nearly 25 years of age, I found a couple harnesses with worn out, UV degraded sheathing. One fits tightly behind the battery base so I removed it all and added a layer of Tygon fuel line then wrapped with electricians tape. The Motronic ground connector was very loose a few crimps and that was tight. Shiney battery connector terminals and voila... fire it up already...
So I bought it sight unseen from a phone call. 5 minutes later the PayPal funds were gone...I would have missed out otherwise. So the first twist of the key was ....key. It fired right off. Engine sounds sweet, tranny snick snick snicks...nicely. See me twist the key here:
https://youtu.be/EqCTPh7hYYo
So first the positives:
I rode it a few miles and checked all the systems. Shifts felt fantastic, solid, nice. Steering, handling...it feels really planted and predictable, better than my K75 in need of head stock bearings and a shorter overall seat height...Overall, as advertised.
So the negatives: I bought it knowing it needs a engine to tranny Input/output seal. It leaked on the trailer but so far nothing on the garage floor. The clutch started to slip when I gave it some abrupt twist. Clearly the clutch in contaminated with oil.
Front brakes were unremarkable so I jumped off for a closer look. Right front strut leaking and drooling all over the caliper and rotor. So the front struts need a rebuild Seat is starting to tear at the stitching in the usual spots. Aft compartment cover under seat has a broken tab. Rear ABS seemed to be activating too strongly.
Reviewers describe this bike as “buzzy” at high revs and I sensed that,. At 5000 rpm it sounded mechanical. Valves maybe? Anyway my K75 spins right up to redline very smoothly...Hopefully this will too though I recognize
These to be very different animals. What does yours do?
So that’s about it, for first impressions.
Input shaft seal: what’s the right source? Is this OEM only, have improvements been made? Ive read EVERY K1100 eats this seal at 80k.
Clutch, o. Ring will get replaced
Spline service of course.
All the fluids are dated so I’ll probably do the brakes and final drive before tackling the big job.
I have a hectic summer family vacation schedule that Includes completing resto to our camper so this may sit several months before I strip it down. I imagine the clutch will deteriorate if I drive it. I may sort the other Stuff and just do that nevertheless. Worst case is the clutch slips a lot right. PO added a nifty manual on off for the fan. Just tooling around it was two ticks below the red.
Think I can keep the parts list to $400? Make that $350 as I bought all the necessary fluids. Cheers all.
Post by: Scott_ on June 23, 2019, 08:30:04 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on June 23, 2019, 08:50:29 AM
Unless you are going to be riding this bike before you take out the transmission, I wouldn't worry about flushing the brake fluid. As this bike is ABS 2, you will find the transmission removal way easier by removing the ABS controller. I've done it both ways, for me personally I'd remove again the next time.T
Scott hi, so admittedly this is my first dance with this model so what you mean then is— space wise it’s easier to get at the tranny by removing the abs controller right? So when I do that I guess the fluid is drained so no sense swapping fluid now.. right? Thanks for the tips
Post by: Scott_ on June 23, 2019, 09:32:56 AM
There are a few things that need/should come out to facilitate the removal of the transmission.
One being the cross brace between the foot-peg side plates. The battery tray is bolted to this cross brace, and there is a fastener for this tray under the ABS unit. Trying to move the ABS around and working around it all the time, in my opinion, puts extra stress/strain on the steel brake lines as you are flexing them around, as well as the point that this thing is not a featherweight part to keep hanging somewhere.
My 1st venture in removing the transmission from my '97 I tried to leave the ABS connected as I didn't want to mess with draining the brakes nor did I want to try and unwire the sealed electrical box(that's another issue that is addressed with pictures in the service manual). I also tried to leave the swing arm and FD connected to the tranny as well.... All I was trying to do was a simple spline lube...
In the end I spend more time f-ing around trying to leave stuff connected and undamaged than if I had just taken it all apart in the 1st place... I learned this the next time when I did my '95 a few years later.
Post by: billday on June 23, 2019, 11:18:42 AM
Great find, looking forward to following this project!
Post by: K1300S on June 23, 2019, 12:20:08 PM
If you don't know how old the brake fluid is, replace before riding.
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 04, 2019, 06:57:56 PM
Back at the ranch it’s dripping lubricant in the correct telltale locations. But all things being equal I see a huge upside potential with this project. Engine/tranny feel strong.
So today I removed all the fairing coachwovrk, foot pegs, seat and the rear cowl. With the seat off I recognized the similarity to my K75 and found that my immaculate K75S sports seat drops right in -what a gorgeous substitute for the tired seat I removed. Mounts the same too??
Well,I didn’t reference a service manual for removing the fairing -it’s all pretty familiar given I ride a K75S.
My big faux pas of the day though was that I had the whole fairing in my hand before disconnecting the turn indicators. 🤔😓🤐Why on earth would they not have quick disconnects on the turn indicators? With everybody still in bed and no third hand available: my bike will get quick disconnects- a side cutters was in reach - I cut them free .
The previous owner put a lot of torx style bolts on the fairing. They work well but I think I’ll go find hex heads instead. Did find one straight blade bolt not holding the rear mudguard “seriously”!! That was good for a nice laugh, then I threw that hardware in the garbage can. In the 21st century straight blade and even Phillips screws should both be obsolete IMHO.
I took a few minutes to do a fairing sculpture installation on the wall of my garage and then brought the bike indoors to stage for surgery...
I removed the foot pegs and then I was feeling the heat of the summer afternoon . Time to wrap up.
My preferred sawhorse set up for spline work-next-has been turned into a worktable base, so I will have to fabricate some for sort of sawhorse or tripod base support for the frame .
The most significant damage on the bike is road rash on the lower side fairings. I’m thinking I will restore these areas with polyester resin body filler and then repaint these areas black rather than re-shooting the whole component. I need to research the proper bonding additive for my polyester filler.
I went to a lot of effort to make a non-standard battery work last month- today it looks as my brother used to say “hokey”- like an owner willing to use straight blade hardware😑and since I have to take it out now, I think I will return that one to Walmart and mail order the less costly Amazon Wesco that’s designed for this bike. Anyway it will probably be winter the next time I twist the key.
It sounds like I can dig into the bowels of this power train without monkeying with the ABS brain etc. I owe Marshall a call back to talk through next steps. I’ve never rebuilt Front struts that will be new and challenging. Question: What make is my fancy looking gold rear strut? Is it serviceable? Are my rotors oem or maybe EBC? Fancy cross drilling😁...Hopefully the center stand fixtures are not stripped out. Does this have the same fuel pump rubber damper issues of my K75? Might as well inspect, swap out filter at minimum. Fun so far-Cheers.
Post by: natalena on August 05, 2019, 09:22:50 AM
What's the toggle switch above the shock remote reservoir? Manual Kill? Ejector seat? Keurig dispenser?
Post by: Laitch on August 05, 2019, 10:27:37 AM
Didn’t note but WTB a side cover preferably in the matching red without the customized , read broken -mounting clip.If you're referring to the rear/front posts, query MaxBMW because currently the #4 entry in their Frame, Fairing, Cases section for the K1100 is incorrect. It depicts a fuel hose which is not part of a body panel assembly. Max likely has a stock of some of these small parts.
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 05, 2019, 05:03:06 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 25, 2019, 01:54:27 AM
So the fuel strainer is different than my 75, I spose a big hole in the end of the strainer won't even stop butterflies? Best source - Motobins...
Pump damper looks acceptable, filter from 03 prooooobly needs a change out. So the submersible line isn't looking bad, but seems stiff. Kbikestuff.com has this stuff priced well... The lines to the fuel bar seemed ready to swap out. All in all a shiny happy tank after a bit o TLC.
Battery I installed was a cobble so out goes the Walmart job. My Toyota needs a battery so I'll exchange it... I'll order a proper Westco probably- $80 on Amazon. My K75 came with an odyssy, must be much lighter!! and fills only half the compartment. Westco/Odyssy??
Right front strut is leaking so I dug into the brake calipers. both struts and calipers will get rebuilt. All the rubber lines appear original and toast. Where should I shop for braided lines/pads? I'll give the calipers a good look tomorrow. I realize now I just shot my budget...oh well, don't tell mom.
Battery support tray runs under the ABS brain, can that be removed for painting without removing that unit?
So the front rotors are rattling/wiggling around loose...Is that normal? Never encountered this before.
Post by: Laitch on August 25, 2019, 03:31:14 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 31, 2019, 12:22:05 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 31, 2019, 12:45:32 PM
Post by: johnny on August 31, 2019, 01:07:34 PM
i replace mine when there is visual wear plus can rotate the rotor cw ccw quarter inch or so...
ive had oe last 60 thou miles... ive had oe last 150 thou miles... never had to replace the motobins (https://www.motobins.co.uk/) 20393 units...
20393.jpg (19.4 kB . 300x225 - viewed 42 times)i gotts an extra set for 2 rotors at the motobrick garage... just saying...
20190831_114048.jpg (26.69 kB . 576x576 - viewed 42 times)i roll outta the chee till mid october on tuesday... you would think being so close to madison i could getts my gender reassignment completed locally... nope... i gotta to go to canadica... crazy world aint it...
we are rolling to the rockton bar (https://www.google.com/maps/place/Rockton+Bar/@43.4351773,-90.0127328,9z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x87fc2d536f1e70a3:0x1c53e4b88a6a89d2!8m2!3d43.6412386!4d-90.602392?hl=en) for chicken lunch tomorrow... can meet you there at 11am...
rockton chicken.jpg (50.03 kB . 768x576 - viewed 2031 times)this is our route if you dont wamma go all the way to la farge...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1-310819133216-243491.png) (https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Juneau,+WI/Rockton+Bar,+S2463+Rockton+Road,+La+Farge,+WI+54639/@43.4540912,-89.6426527,9z/data=!4m34!4m33!1m25!1m1!1s0x880423f00f5dc43d:0x5dace0c2bae00988!2m2!1d-88.7051037!2d43.4055504!3m4!1m2!1d-89.7738874!2d43.4749001!3s0x88076a02d8aded9d:0x8b4ae432593d5093!3m4!1m2!1d-90.0102291!2d43.4836936!3s0x87fd8aad50da8e8f:0xc2fc9a4ec4e3e448!3m4!1m2!1d-90.0367346!2d43.4403782!3s0x87fd8a54a5599ffd:0x724acbea54851956!3m4!1m2!1d-90.2487665!2d43.3815732!3s0x87fd96c21ea137c9:0xd65bc3652f71430b!1m5!1m1!1s0x87fc2d536f1e70a3:0x1c53e4b88a6a89d2!2m2!1d-90.602392!2d43.6412386!3e0?hl=en)
j o
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 31, 2019, 01:39:23 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 02, 2019, 01:46:32 AM
Anyway kudos to Johnny for parting with his spare bobbin kits. We also picked up my newly mounted Battlax T30s for my daily driver K75s. Our dog Pnut was clearly pissed this was not a car ride for him. Cheers.
Post by: Rcgreaves on October 20, 2019, 10:26:46 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 06, 2019, 07:10:46 AM
Post by: Martin on November 06, 2019, 03:13:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 14, 2019, 10:43:24 PM
Some of the parts seemed impressively priced despite the 1.28 to 1 exchange rate to pounds sterling Here's tonights $407 Motobins.com order:
BRAKE HOSE KIT ( Front ) ( With ABS )
BRAKE HOSE KIT ( Front ) ( With ABS )
Code: BHKIT11ABS
1x £98.00remove item $125
FLYWHEEL END NUT
FLYWHEEL END NUT
Code: 11679 BMW: 11 21 1 460 673
1x £8.00remove item
BRAKE PADS ( Front ) ( Ferrodo )
BRAKE PADS ( Front ) ( Ferrodo )
Code: 22835 BMW: FDB2050P
2x £38.00remove item
CLUTCH BOLT ( Each ) CLUTCH BOLT ( Each )
Code: 32330 BMW: 21 21 1 454 417
6x £12.00remove item
CLUTCH BOLT WASHER ( Each )
CLUTCH BOLT WASHER ( Each )
Code: 32360 BMW: 21 21 1 242 377
6x £3.00remove item
REAR MAIN CRANK SEAL
REAR MAIN CRANK SEAL
Code: 40120 BMW: 11 11 7 666 186
1x £22.00remove item
FLYWHEEL O-RING FLYWHEEL O-RING (Max is about $40)
Code: 41230 BMW: 11 21 1 460 456
1x £1.50remove item
LONG LIFE FORK SEAL LUBRICANT LONG LIFE FORK SEAL LUBRICANT
Code: 44005 BMW: C4122/034
1x £1.00remove item
FORK OIL SEALS ( High Quality Pattern Part ) ( Pair ) FORK OIL SEALS ( High Quality Pattern Part ) ( Pair )
Code: 44250A BMW: 31 42 2 312 928
1x £13.50remove item
FUEL PUMP GAUZE BAG ( For 74105 pump )
FUEL PUMP GAUZE BAG ( For 74105 pump )
Code: 74106 BMW: 16 14 1 341 233
1x £29.50remove item
FUEL LEVER SENDER TO TANK O-RING FUEL LEVER SENDER TO TANK O-RING
Code: 74112 BMW: 62 16 1 459 608
1x £3.00remove item
FRONT FORK BOOT / DUST CAP ( Each ) FRONT FORK BOOT / DUST CAP ( Each )
Code: 93908 BMW: 31 42 2 310 344
2x £31.00remove item
FUEL FILLER CAP GASKET SET FUEL FILLER CAP GASKET SET
Code: 94609 BMW: 16 11 9 062 461
1x £16.50remove item
FUEL FILLER CAP TO TANK SEAL FUEL FILLER CAP TO TANK SEAL
Code: 94611 BMW: 16 11 1 453 690
1x £6.50remove item
FUEL HOSE ( High Pressure ) ( Per metre ) FUEL HOSE ( High Pressure ) ( Per metre )
Code: 95410 BMW: 13 11 1 337 827
1x £6.50remove item
Subtotal
£290.00
Fedex Express Insured
£28.35
Total
£318.35 ($407)
Post by: billday on November 15, 2019, 07:19:17 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 15, 2019, 12:11:48 PM
For example fuel strainer “bag” as named by the brits at motobins. $38 vs $78 at Max. Also their website is well executed.
Post by: volador on November 15, 2019, 12:37:04 PM
Yes cheaper and some bits only sourceable there..
For example fuel strainer “bag” as named by the brits at motobins. $38 vs $78 at Max. Also their website is well executed.
You donating lotta quid to the Motobins.
Those O-ring viton ?
https://www.tills.de/strainer-to-replace-16141341233.html (https://www.tills.de/strainer-to-replace-16141341233.html) Strainer to replace 16141341233 8.99 USD
https://www.tills.de/seal-bmw-62161459608.html (https://www.tills.de/seal-bmw-62161459608.html) Seal replacing BMW 62161459608 - VITON 4.05 USD
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 15, 2019, 05:19:38 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 15, 2019, 05:43:59 PM
I’m having buyers remorse!!The up-side in this case, of course, is that now you aren't doing better than you deserve, which should relieve you of some unease. :-)
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 15, 2019, 05:47:23 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 15, 2019, 05:53:43 PM
. . . with horse trades mom can’t trace. . .O, what a tangled web. :-)
Post by: billday on November 16, 2019, 12:10:57 PM
Post by: volador on November 16, 2019, 10:35:02 PM
I’m having buyers remorse!! But thanks!Did read somewhere that you're very fond of the queen of England
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 17, 2019, 12:02:59 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 18, 2019, 05:12:59 PM
front forks
front brake hoses and calipers, fresh pads.
fuel tank resto all rubbers etc
Crank seal.
still need to spring for pressure plate that will likely be found soaked in oil.
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 26, 2019, 11:14:52 PM
Stands are 2” tubing so I selected 1 7/8 tubing 31” tall with a 4x6” plate atop with screw holes for a 2x6 crossbar. The tubing didn’t fit so I notched it with a cut off wheel. Gearing up for Moto surgery😜
Post by: cycleman on November 28, 2019, 10:39:24 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 28, 2019, 01:48:42 PM
Post by: cycleman on November 28, 2019, 01:58:16 PM
One of those small scissor jack lifts for motorcycles/ATV works well and that is what I use. Frees up the whole back end of the bike. You will want to tie the front end of the bike down so it can't move.
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 16, 2019, 11:10:14 PM
advise please.
Post by: Laitch on December 16, 2019, 11:46:11 PM
Ive ordered the bolts but it occurs to me that for a few hundred bucks extra Motobins has complete clutch kits.Anytime people are able to refer to hundreds of dollars as a few, they should spend them asap. :-) If the odometer has 50K on it, buy a new pack. You can grow old with it serenely.
Post by: volador on December 17, 2019, 12:09:47 AM
Anytime people are able to refer to hundreds of dollars as a few, they should spend them asap. :-) If the odometer has 50K on it, buy a new pack. You can grow old with it serenely.Or soak friction plate in lacquer thinner or naphtha or acetone wash the rest with your favorite degreaser
Slap it all back together and ride off serenely into the landscape
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 29, 2019, 07:15:08 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 29, 2019, 07:53:44 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 30, 2019, 01:17:59 AM
Something like a milk crate but strong enough to spend a month under my engine without collapsing.
Post by: billday on December 30, 2019, 08:03:26 AM
Post by: Laitch on December 30, 2019, 08:21:10 AM
. . . what works well under the engine and maybe will provide extra lateral support?That, and this.Um . . . the center stand?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q48EptqVzB4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q48EptqVzB4)
Post by: cycleman on December 30, 2019, 10:01:17 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 30, 2019, 03:45:59 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 31, 2019, 06:12:15 AM
Um . . . the center stand?
As for servicing the main shaft seal on the lashed center stand: I've seen how some have performed surgery that way. Two things:
there's a bolt missing from my center stand and support and removal gives me the chance to inspect for damage, stripped threads, etc. Am I able to pull the tranny/clutch etc with the stand in place? I suppose so. Anyway, a support will allow me to completely strip the bike of everything behind the engine. That's my premise anyway.
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 31, 2019, 06:54:45 AM
How bout that box! "Cheap bastard can't afford to go buy a fresh sheet of plywood"...I can hear Laitch snickering. Roads here are a skating rink yesterday. Thinkin I'll add a couple of safety straps to lock down the front of the machine...I have visions of cranking on the clutch gland nut and clunking it to the ground with a thud....then I awaken in a cold sweat... maybe I should go back to bed.
So my front calipers appear to have been serviced recently, shiny bolts, nearly new pads, Clearly, I need to study up on bleeding an ABS II system (bleeders on the module, the back bleeder is for the front?? )That's new to me.
The rear master also has the look of recent service- shiny piston. Its been six months since my test ride....other than needing bobbins replaced brakes seemed fine...I guess I'll price the seal kits anyway. Best to have a service benchmark.
Can I get away with splitting the calipers without replacing sealing O-rings etc? Prior threads suggested once split, home mechanics ( that would be me..) had difficulty avoiding leaks.
Fuel Tank: I have a pile of new gaskets etc for my shiny clean fuel tank. I ordered the fuel line from Motobins , but I don't recall the MB site specifically stating whether their supplied fuel line is submersible?? website references 13111337827 and shows it right alongside the pump etc, but MAX shows the submersible line as 1612118040 Must not be submersible..Krud... Mine is serviceable but stiff of course.
I think I may need to order a submersible fuel line before assembling my shiny clean fuel tank.
I went to review Marshall's dandy restoration thread and all the Photobucket links are down.
I've never R +R d a front strut but its time to learn. I have the seals and dust caps, but overlooked fork oil. And I want to add what I term "Johnny gaiters" Yo- Juneau- where did those come from again please?
It's New Year's Eve Day in the Chee. My garage is hovering at 60 degrees with a ceramic heater. New lighting really gives the shop and inviting new feel. The early bird gets the worm
Post by: billday on December 31, 2019, 07:41:36 AM
That, and this.
Not one f-bomb? I'm demanding a refund.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on December 31, 2019, 08:16:45 AM
Post by: Laitch on December 31, 2019, 09:18:03 AM
So my front calipers appear to have been serviced recently, shiny bolts, nearly new pads . . .If the action of the pads is smooth and positive, why split the calipers for the sake of list-making? Clean debris from between the calipers, bleed the brakes then replace the fluid at least once a year.
The rear master also has the look of recent service- shiny piston. Its been six months since my test ride....other than needing bobbins replaced brakes seemed fine...I guess I'll price the seal kits anyway. Best to have a service benchmark.
Can I get away with splitting the calipers without replacing sealing O-rings etc? Prior threads suggested once split, home mechanics ( that would be me..) had difficulty avoiding leaks.
Trying to get away with using old seals after splitting the calipers would be a hubristic adventure.
Post by: Rcgreaves on December 31, 2019, 11:56:28 PM
Great way to wrap up my year. Happy New Year.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 01, 2020, 07:38:04 PM
So I'm halfway done with the project, with about 99% remaining. Need a few parts, need to paint and pretty, but the upside potential is still there. Back to work tomorrow.
Post by: FlatSix on January 06, 2020, 03:28:42 PM
Nice project.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 17, 2020, 05:57:40 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 28, 2020, 06:33:08 PM
The next purchase is at minimum one replacement brake piston, and most likely complete rebuild kits for the front Brembos. Motobins shipped is about $150. Where is the best offer you know of for Brembo rebuild parts?
Post by: volador on January 28, 2020, 07:37:09 PM
Some Brembo parts kit choices
https://www.beemershop.com/category/brakes-934.html (https://www.beemershop.com/category/brakes-934.html)
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2986.htm (https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/2986.htm)
https://www.tills.de/bmw-k75-74/bmw-k75xx-230/ (https://www.tills.de/bmw-k75-74/bmw-k75xx-230/)
Post by: billday on January 29, 2020, 06:23:06 AM
I did a post in the workshop a couple years ago about caliper rebuild, including parts sources. I'm too lazy to search it out for you, but you may find it useful.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 29, 2020, 10:48:38 AM
Post by: Laitch on January 29, 2020, 11:19:23 AM
My. 02, do not rebuild just one caliper. I did a post in the workshop a couple years ago about caliper rebuild, including parts sources. I'm too lazy to search it out for you, but you may find it useful.If it ain't broke, clean it; don't "fix" it. billday's post is here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,12182.msg107307.html#msg107307) but it concerns 2-pot calipers not 4-pot.I agree entirely on caliper service. Saving my nickels....I'll search out the thread. Thanks.
4-pot caliper rebuilds differ from 2-pot rebuilds. The K1100 manual cautions not to split 4-pot calipers. Some have gone ahead and done that with varying degrees of success. The pistons and seals can be replaced in most cases without that step. Of course, thorough cleaning and flushing with brake cleaner is necessary first; however, because you're doing better than you deserve, no matter what you do it might all workout ok.
:laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 29, 2020, 11:26:59 AM
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on January 29, 2020, 10:01:00 PM
Post by: billday on January 29, 2020, 10:28:55 PM
4-pot caliper rebuilds differ from 2-pot rebuilds. The K1100 manual cautions not to split 4-pot calipers. Some have gone ahead and done that with varying degrees of success.
Is 'varying degrees of success' measured by how hard you hit the wall?
Sorry for missing the distinction between 100 and 1100 Brembos.
Post by: Filmcamera on January 30, 2020, 12:48:29 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 30, 2020, 12:51:43 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 07, 2020, 04:02:22 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 07, 2020, 04:04:46 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 15, 2020, 08:37:07 PM
Running out of parts to buy.
brake lines check
main shaft seal
oring
caliper kits, pads
fork seals/dust caps -
fuel tank seal rebuild parts
Friction disk
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 08:50:18 AM
I’ve forgotten the fix for my inverted photos- moderator help plzz
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2020, 11:41:04 AM
I have split my four pot calipers with no problem, I have never had a leak. I got the rebuild kit from beemerboneyard I think it was. It may be possible to install new pistons and seal without splitting the caliper (but it must be pretty tricky) but there is no way to replace the other small seal in the oil passageway that goes from one side of the caliper to the other without splitting them.
it is possible to install new brembo pistons and seals without splitting the caliper...and it is NOT tricky at all. just like refreshing any other caliper. did the K11RS in my shop last year. simple.
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2020, 11:48:52 AM
New Year's Day 2020 had me chasing a 30mm standard wall socket when I learned that my impact style socket would not seat on the gland nut. Busting loose the gland nut turned out to be a routine affair, the outrigger legs on my box helping to keep the frame from twisting. There's a rubber ring on the rear main seal that proved to be hard and cracking in my hand. Pulling the clutch housing- the last of the four clutch components had me resorting to a puller. The o-ring on the shaft really does halt progress when VERY hard...By removing the puller after an inch of progress and tapping the housing back in, the binding o-ring becomes visible and vulnerable to ..my scalpal. perfect cutter for this. Housing slid out like "budda"
So I'm halfway done with the project, with about 99% remaining. Need a few parts, need to paint and pretty, but the upside potential is still there. Back to work tomorrow.
when you used the puller on the clutch, was the center of the puller against the pilot bushing? your bushing looks pressed in further than it should be. as far as i could find, those bushings are NLA and they get destroyed if they are pulled out. depth is important as if they are too far in, the clutch rod end won't reach them.
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 12:05:34 PM
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2020, 03:09:39 PM
i did the same thing you did, but caught it happening early enough that the bushing did not going very far. DOH!!!
all good at this depth.
(https://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20200103_144929.jpg) (https://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20200103_144929.jpg.html)
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 03:39:12 PM
Post by: K1300S on March 05, 2020, 06:57:49 PM
you DO NOT want to screw up the bushing. they are NLA. it is not even listed in the parts fiche. i talked with techs at two dealers and they had never seen one or replaced one.
Post by: Laitch on March 05, 2020, 07:09:16 PM
you DO NOT want to screw up the bushing. they are NLA. it is not even listed in the parts fiche.Contradicting mlytle is not to be taken on lightly but I believe the pilot bushing is listed as part #2 in the 11-Engine/Output Shaft diagram in MAX BMW's parts fiche (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&rnd=07242017).
A blind hole bearing puller could be used to extract it then it could be reinstalled to an acceptable distance, or a replacement bushing could be found—OEM 11211461539, maybe—or fabricated then installed. This video gives you the gist of extraction starting at 0:12. The narrator is speaking in my native tongue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIy1xcfFITs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIy1xcfFITs)
The alternative is to clean up the bushing's opening with emery cloth then adopt the belief that its position looks as good as mlytle's and everything is ok. icon_cheers
Post by: billday on March 05, 2020, 09:11:00 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 05, 2020, 10:46:06 PM
I ordered the bushing $18 from Max.
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 04:09:12 AM
...I could grumble about yours looking just like mine . . .Grumble? I'd be celebrating. :laughing4-giggles:
Regardless, while you're waiting for what might be the correct part, you could follow this wrencher's obsession (http://www.k100-forum.com/t15859-clutch-assembly-question#183685).
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 06, 2020, 07:14:31 AM
Post by: K1300S on March 06, 2020, 08:03:44 AM
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 08:09:59 AM
the clutch rod rides in this bushing and the negative effect of pressing it in several extra mms is? Maybe the clutch could bind by falling out?The clutch falling out of what? The clutch? Falling? Where? It seems all seems so perilous. :laughing4-giggles:
the clutch rod never reaches the bushing center. hits the side and stops. no clutch.To inhibit that circumstance is likely why the bushing's opening is chamfered.
Be advised as previously, rc, the video was submitted for understanding removal of the bushing. Clearly, the whole business is unsettling for you so replacement is probably the best course. I haven't observed the action of the clutch rod within the bushing because my I lost the x-ray glasses I bought from an advertisement in a GI Joe comic book before I was graduated from elementary school.
The bushing probably stabilizes the clutch rod and prevents its vibration which would ultimately cause distress—if not to parts, then to the serenity of some riders. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: K1300S on March 06, 2020, 08:10:40 AM
Contradicting mlytle is not to be taken on lightly but I believe the pilot bushing is listed as part #2 in the 11-Engine/Output Shaft diagram in MAX BMW's parts fiche (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51713&rnd=07242017).
A blind hole bearing puller could be used to extract it then it could be reinstalled to an acceptable distance, or a replacement bushing could be found—OEM 11211461539, maybe—or fabricated then installed. This video gives you the gist of extraction starting at 0:12. The narrator is speaking in my native tongue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIy1xcfFITs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIy1xcfFITs)
The alternative is to clean up the bushing's opening with emery cloth then adopt the belief that its position looks as good as mlytle's and everything is ok. icon_cheers
awesome! damn if neither I nor two dealers could read the fiche well enough to find that part.
with a new one in hand, getting the old one out becomes less problematic. destroy at will. the issue is the hole in the center is TINY. pilot bearing pullers like the one in the video just don't work as they are too big to fit. i actually have a BMW pilot bearing puller. too big. the old "put a big screw in it and slide hammer it out" trick probably will work.
Post by: K1300S on March 06, 2020, 08:17:55 AM
The clutch falling out of what? The clutch? Falling? Where? It seems all seems so perilous. :laughing4-giggles:
To inhibit that circumstance is likely why the bushing's opening is chamfered.
Be advised as previously, rc, the video was submitted for understanding removal of the bushing. Clearly, the whole business is unsettling for you so replacement is probably the best course. I haven't observed the action of the clutch rod within the bushing because my I lost the x-ray glasses I bought from an advertisement in a GI Joe comic book before I was graduated from elementary school.
The bushing probably stabilizes the clutch rod and prevents its vibration which would ultimately cause distress—if not to parts, then to the serenity of some riders. :laughing4-giggles:
ahh, but look at the two pics. mine is not camfered. i think RC's puller induced the bevel in his pic. the bushing is soft brass. when clutch is released, the rod should still be inside the bushing. as clutch lever is pulled, the rod slides further into the bushing keeping the clutch disk centered in the clutch. cars use a bearing, not a bushing, in this location.
Post by: K1300S on March 06, 2020, 08:22:24 AM
Grumble? I'd be celebrating. :laughing4-giggles:
Regardless, while you're waiting for what might be the correct part, you could follow this wrencher's obsession (http://www.k100-forum.com/t15859-clutch-assembly-question#183685).
i bow to your knowledge and searching ability. i spent hours searching for info on this silly bushing and didn't find that link!
but in my defense...i noticed that thread was done AFTER i was searching....:-)
Post by: Laitch on March 06, 2020, 09:35:52 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 06, 2020, 12:43:50 PM
You can't go wrong with this panoply of input, rc—crazy, maybe; but not wrong. Please video removal and installation for posting here.
So in all likelihood- tapered or not my stealthy GI Joe rod would most likely sit happy in my bushing as it is. Either way I now have a thorough understanding of what’s next
+ 1 to Marshall on the bushing may be NLA comment- looks like it will need to come from Germany:
From my inbox today:
Good morning Clayton,
Thank you for your MAX BMW parts order. Your order is in process with the bushing coming from Germany. Please allow up to 2 weeks for your order to complete and ship out to you.
Russell Chave
Internet Parts
MAX BMW Motorcycles
Thanks over and over gentlemen and Laitch for your time, effort,and attention. Forecast says two days 50 degrees plus in the Chee- so much touring is planned for the coming weekend.
russell@maxbmw.com
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 07, 2020, 10:45:54 AM
Forecast says two days 50 degrees plus in the Chee- so much touring is planned for the coming weekend.:laitch
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 07, 2020, 11:06:03 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 08, 2020, 10:52:49 PM
Post by: SHNAPS GUY on March 20, 2020, 09:17:41 AM
So last weekend several gagged and coughed up their coffee when I posted my Craigslist find, a $500 Brick.
The world seems a more lovely place knowing a Motronic equipped, 4 puck Brembo, liter + brick can be had and potentially road/track worthy for under a grand.. Anyway that’s my goal.
Did I mention the near complete tool kit, pristine (French bread basket luggage...) tragkorbs..tragborgs,whatever, and Michelin Pilot radials with plenty o Tread? “Score!”.
I’m scratch building a hack BTW, see the sidecar forum, maybe once sorted this will end up married to my creation. I’m hard pressed to consider carving up my K75S fairing for a hack. Some own sculpture, I appreciate these sculpted fairings, and the RS is no slouch, great profile!
So the battery was toast as per normal. Online Amazon Westco source was only $80 but I spotted a sealed unit at Walmart $95. Unearthing the battery is a project: it’s buried under the Motronic fuel injection controller, connectors require time, coffee and patience. At nearly 25 years of age, I found a couple harnesses with worn out, UV degraded sheathing. One fits tightly behind the battery base so I removed it all and added a layer of Tygon fuel line then wrapped with electricians tape. The Motronic ground connector was very loose a few crimps and that was tight. Shiney battery connector terminals and voila... fire it up already...
So I bought it sight unseen from a phone call. 5 minutes later the PayPal funds were gone...I would have missed out otherwise. So the first twist of the key was ....key. It fired right off. Engine sounds sweet, tranny snick snick snicks...nicely.
I DON'T FREAKING BELIEVE IT. I saw this bike on CL immediately after I bought my K75 for $800 from my neighbor and immediately had buyer's remorse. I called my neighbor, who's something of a Beemer guru, and told him he needed it. He called to make an offer the next morning, and you'd already snatched it up, apparently.
Great score, sir. Hopefully I'll see you in the alphabets somewhere southwest of Madison soon!
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 20, 2020, 02:32:53 PM
I DON'T FREAKING BELIEVE IT. I saw this bike on CL immediately after I bought my K75 for $800 from my neighbor and immediately had buyer's remorse. I called my neighbor, who's something of a Beemer guru, and told him he needed it. He called to make an offer the next morning, and you'd already snatched it up, apparently.
Great score, sir. Hopefully I'll see you in the alphabets somewhere southwest of Madison soon!
Shnaps Guy, you make me giggle, thanks. I didn't believe it either. My bride is still rolling her eyes as I'm supposed to get clearance.
How it happened: I was off for that day and sitting in the oral surgeon's waiting room in Middleton, awaiting a root canal appointment. Like me, you probably scroll through Craigslist postings as a distraction and in this instance, it was the throbbing pain in my jaw.
I called the dude who admitted to having 8 inquiries queued for callbacks but not takers.. I consider myself a fair judge of character, probably from decades in sales and despite my choice of mentors here in the asylum...ok I jest... You can smell when you have a straight shooter on the line. He didn't mix metaphors, it was running, maintained, ridden that day, but puking oil in the telltale location and correct 80k mileage for a main shaft seal replacement.
Knowing my name would be called any minute I asked: "do you have a Paypal account?" - in less than 5 minutes I pulled the trigger sight unseen and without even running it when I picked it up. If you look at my video after I installed a fresh battery, I was pretty tickled at how well it fired up. A fun day in deed.
I take pokes and prods here about my goal to have it roadworthy for a grand. All told, more like $1500. In truth that's entirely possible but not practicable when my full intent is to thrash the thing. Perfect brakes adds to about $500 with all-new stainless lines etc. etc.
The BIG story, all here can appreciate is the silly high-value propositions available with used Bricks. Mind you, No one here will get rich flipping K Bikes but what you get for your money is very impressive.
The majority of Brick patrons cared for their bike and stored it indoors. My latest find is an even more sick example: 96 VRF750F Interceptor with 16k miles for ...yes $500. And that project will roll for under a grand.... bmp
Granted it's not an air-cooled 911 but for the cost of some Porsche bits I've purchased over the years...a $1200 spark plug harness, $2000 second gear synchrode...the bang for the buck is pretty satisfying. Thanks for writing. I live just West of Dodgeville under the windmills at Montfort. Where are you? Come visit. Come ride!
Post by: SHNAPS GUY on March 20, 2020, 07:11:53 PM
The BIG story, all here can appreciate is the silly high-value propositions available with used Bricks. Mind you, No one here will get rich flipping K Bikes but what you get for your money is very impressive.
The majority of Brick patrons cared for their bike and stored it indoors. My latest find is an even more sick example: 96 VRF750F Interceptor with 16k miles for ...yes $500. And that project will roll for under a grand.... bmp
Granted it's not an air-cooled 911 but for the cost of some Porsche bits I've purchased over the years...a $1200 spark plug harness, $2000 second gear synchrode...the bang for the buck is pretty satisfying. Thanks for writing. I live just West of Dodgeville under the windmills at Montfort. Where are you? Come visit. Come ride!
Agreed, the value prop on these bikes is incredible, as long as you don't plan on making $$. But if all you want to do is ride, they're damn near perfect in my estimation. That VFR you grabbed is a sick bike as well. Love the V4 Hondas.....
I live on the south side of Madison; Park and Beltline-ish. My neighbor and I often ride out that way, we'll have to set something up! You seem a good sort, what with references to air-cooled 911's and constant CL trolling for deals..... 112350
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 20, 2020, 07:28:51 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 20, 2020, 07:54:08 PM
For those and Laitch lacking Xray vision a few of the clutch rod and pilot bearing showing the taper before beating the living @$%p[oi out of the brass with my puller.....
Then there's this bargain Harbor Freight slide hammer kit that happens to have a pilot bearing puller small enough to grab this tiny beasty "I'll show that fancy panty Lytle who knows what for....only ... the puller, adapter and pilot puller have differing threads like all well thought out Chinese ......things. All the parts are in the picture...Yeah yeah I know thread in a screw, destroy the b#@$% and get on with it before July RC!!! But its the principal I say %$@#$%@ @#$%@#$%
Expletives requisite.....
So my clutch housing has some pretty deep pitting? Does that matter? That rides on the friction plate right? Maybe I'll get that too...$$ @@#$%42.
I need a beer.
Post by: Laitch on March 21, 2020, 09:10:34 AM
"I'll show that fancy panty . . . So my clutch housing has some pretty deep pitting? Does that matter?Point of order!
Where I came from that adjective would be fancy-pantsy but it was an admittedly machismo culture. Yours is more inclusive.
Your pitted part in the photo is what BMW terms the clutch housing cover. The clutch housing is the splined part that engages with the engine output shaft. Some non-Germglish speakers might be tempted to call the clutch housing a flywheel. In your opening post of this epic, you indicated the shifts felt fantastic. You could clean the cover's surface with fine emery cloth on glass, leave it alone or spend more money.
You indicate there's a hole in your budget already, so nothing need stop you now. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Martin on March 21, 2020, 05:15:00 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 25, 2020, 12:13:09 AM
Is this unit worthy of restoration and service?
Seems the company is out of business perhaps?
Any recommendations on a servicer? It would be nice to know the overall condition and at minimum repaint the spring. Does spray paint hold up to spring compression, flexing?
Two weeks under the weather with influenza. Barely enough motivation to lift the remote control. Today I felt I was getting my strength back.
Post by: volador on March 25, 2020, 02:41:21 AM
http://epmperf.com/motorcycle-shock-rebuild-service/
https://www.beemershop.com/contact-us.html
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 25, 2020, 09:29:25 AM
Looks like Marzocchi is focusing on bicycles, but is still out there. They were top of the line back in the day and would be worth restoring.
If it was my shock and it seems to work I would take it to a motorcycle shop that caters to the motocross crowd. Someone there(probably one of the older guys) will recognize your shock. They can remove the spring so you can have it stripped and powder coated.
Ask them about a new spring. Racers are always changing springs and if it's a good shop, they'll have a source for a new one, maybe for less than powder coating the old one.
They may also be able to do a rebuild, but if the damping works, I would be inclined to let sleeping dogs snooze. Clean it up, paint it, and have the moto shop charge the nitrogen and reinstall the spring.
Post by: Hilltopper46 on March 25, 2020, 09:41:29 AM
He's about 45 minutes southeast of me in Kenosha County..
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on March 25, 2020, 12:04:28 PM
Wooooow. This must be a truly magical place, do I need a DeLorean or a telephone call box to get there? Maybe that peacock chair from the H.G. Wells story? Here in Old New Mexico they ain't got such establishments. Next you'd have us believe there are places where toilet paper and hand sanitizer can just be bought off the shelf whenever you want to!
If it was my shock and it seems to work I would take it to a motorcycle shop that caters to the motocross crowd. Someone there(probably one of the older guys) will recognize your shock. They can remove the spring so you can have it stripped and powder coated.
Ask them about a new spring. Racers are always changing springs and if it's a good shop, they'll have a source for a new one, maybe for less than powder coating the old one.
They may also be able to do a rebuild, but if the damping works, I would be inclined to let sleeping dogs snooze. Clean it up, paint it, and have the moto shop charge the nitrogen and reinstall the spring.
:poo
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 25, 2020, 12:17:15 PM
Wooooow. This must be a truly magical place, do I need a DeLorean or a telephone call box to get there? Maybe that peacock chair from the H.G. Wells story? Here in Old New Mexico they ain't got such establishments. Next you'd have us believe there are places where toilet paper and hand sanitizer can just be bought off the shelf whenever you want to!
:poo
Nobody rides dirt bikes or races in New Mexico anymore????!!!
Any moto dealer's shop should be able to remove the spring while you wait for a couple bucks. An abrasive blaster can strip the old paint, and then it's off to a powder coater. The shop that took it off puts it back on and charges the nitrogen. None of it is rocket surgery.
Marzocchi was a big name in racing shocks and forks back in the late 70's mid 80's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAzSvhioo34
Post by: Rcgreaves on March 25, 2020, 09:26:00 PM
Thanks all for your latest input. I've located a spring compression tool and a shop to do some powder painting..As for my clutch challenges I checked into machining and used bits but can’t stomach it. Maybe on K clutch #4 but not on K 11 #1.
There's a serviceable clutch kit on Ebay for $40 - I’ve attached a blurry image of the housing mating surface I had to request from the seller... Bothers me -when selling clutch bits to not show the most critical stuf without having to request a follow up pic. Sorta like a used car ad that omits images of the drivers seat. My local shops didn't have tooling to grasp and machine my clutch housing without a center mounting point . Growing impatient. I don’t want to dick around with this. And I definitely want to reassemble once!!
A few overlooked items ordered from MAX today (free shipping on a $30 order BTW) compression ring, Spacer ring and a new K75 badge...
Pitting on the mating face is probably passable. Auto machinist thought so too...New clutch housing at Motobins is about $170. Money tight but with this critical bit I’ll go the Johnny route on this score- new bits is best when it comes to an 84k mile clutch I’ll repaint and inspect my rear strut spring and see how it goes.
Temps in the high 40s today- you can smell spring in the air. Looking forward to some Moto induced social distancing -Cheers.
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 10, 2020, 12:54:22 PM
Now back to my last acquisition for the K11 clutch: I need, and acquired today Part #6 on the fiche attached- outer housing far right, Mine is fairly deeply pitted and nasty from 80k and an oil soak.
Max gets $300+ for this OEM Sachs outer housing OUCH. Not a whole lot different than the K75 version for half that. a rude awakening when I saw first saw it...My COVID deprived play money account can hardly afford the used unit on eBay , now discounted to $38. Gotta do better.
Motobins gets about $180 plus even higher cost shipment from the locked-down fortress Europe. So, Motobins is out as a USA supplier for now. A German dismantler outfit quoted $100+ $105 to ship...ouch!!
Anyway, good news: a Vegas dismantler on Ebay just posted a complete clutch from a rather high mileage 1100LT (same clutch) and with a nearly spanking new -:" I can still see the machining grooves in the mating surface " part # 21212333472 can be read on the posting...."Take my money!!!
Here's the auction:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/93-99-BMW-K1100LT-OEM-CLUTCH-PRESSURE-PLATE-R3-BX1/383409677077?autorefresh=true
the second image is the actual part from the listing. Note the spots of wear surrounded by concentric rings. this thing hasn't even been worn flat yet...gotta be very low mileage. Do experts agree??
Better news yet: he accepted an offer of $52.75 shipped. Time to install the main seal and maybe paint the center stand.
Post by: natalena on April 10, 2020, 03:59:51 PM
Wooooow. This must be a truly magical place, do I need a DeLorean or a telephone call box to get there?Nah, I can meet you at the Mall or near the clock tower.
Post by: Bon Jon Bovi on April 10, 2020, 07:39:50 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6807-100420193756-29832358.jpeg)
Post by: natalena on April 11, 2020, 12:50:17 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 16, 2020, 02:09:20 PM
I have three days of liberty, maybe I can clear a path in my trashed workshop.
I still have no idea why the threads on my pilot puller are different than the other parts in my kit. Early morning epiphany: maybe that component comes with theads compatible with a puller? Gotta check that out. ideas?
Post by: Rcgreaves on April 19, 2020, 09:49:33 PM
S100 detailer is the real deal, combined with a low setting on the pressure washer and it made quick work of detailing. Got a nice line up before packing up for the night.
Interceptor project is on the market, but I can't help but take it out and flog it while I can. What a sound! I uploaded a raw unedited video to YouTube.com. If impatient.....no names... :nono2: Skip to:30 or 2:30 for best bits.
https://youtu.be/UkS86gjoy2w
Shop is cleaner than its been in months. I'll start by replacing the main shaft seal and pilot bearing.
Post by: herseyb on April 19, 2020, 10:28:11 PM
Post by: volador on April 19, 2020, 11:28:44 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 17, 2022, 07:44:48 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 17, 2022, 07:48:09 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 19, 2022, 12:52:25 PM
Now I have all the clutch components layed out on a bench like a surgical theatre. Planning to take my factory service manual along on errands today to review the install steps.
should the oring be lubed?
mainshaft seal .5mm proud correct?
New clutch bolts... gotta look up the torques.
clutch centering tool...check.
lube the clutch splines.
got this other cool wooden tool....thinkin it was for aligning the gearbox...there was a trick to that one.
Man servicing my K75 clutch splines will be no prob! I'll be an old hand...
gotta go, pics to follow.
How did I miss the bread method in all these decades! Shame on you all. Laitch! You been sleeping in?
Post by: Laitch on September 19, 2022, 01:22:59 PM
How did I miss the bread method in all these decades! Shame on you all. Laitch! You been sleeping in?When it comes to machine repair, Rc, my first choice has always been to use tools rather than food, probably because I'm a light eater. In my defense: I usually finish a clutch job within a year. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: frankenduck on September 19, 2022, 02:59:50 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 19, 2022, 04:06:38 PM
FOR THE UNINITIATED: here's a bread trick video that translates to our application.
https://youtu.be/T0Ms6G0S_Fc
Half a slice o white bread was all this took....
:johnny :johnny 112350
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 19, 2022, 09:29:50 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on September 21, 2022, 01:53:34 AM
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PiTJbV5GRPSM1Df57
Post by: mr_10brook on September 21, 2022, 05:11:06 AM
Just went completely through this thread. WTF, you have neglected this project as I have a few myself that are are dust collectors and coat racks.
Me thinks that I like your two or three red sickles and I would like to ride each of them back to back sometime!!
112350
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 06, 2023, 04:46:14 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 06, 2023, 05:53:41 PM
To celebrate I took a spin on the now dry roads. Hizzah! I was soo excited by the sun I did handsprings....leaving last pic inverted to annoy my pal Laitch. Cheers. This will one day be a spectacular ride!
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 16, 2023, 10:53:26 AM
Ive seen ridgid bits of rubber stuffed in these wear areas but as soon as you want them off you have to monkeye with this klugey fix.
This material is fibriod yes? ie ABS with fiberglass fibers like the fairings??
My plastic welder has a spoon head comme soldering iron. Maybe I "plow" molten fibroid into these low spots worn away? I wonder if molten abs added to this area would bond well? Here goes.....
Just thinking out loud on a dreary Monday. Time to go mount the center stand.
Post by: Laitch on January 16, 2023, 05:43:52 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 16, 2023, 08:32:47 PM
So, if I understand why Brickmeisters succumb to "trajecto traborgs" its a combination of the ( Pan....french word for bread box I prefer to the Deutsche though not allowed here...) lifting AND then sliding back. My take is that Martin's ingenious block though functional only addresses half the wear problem. If it clamps to the rack in doesn't slide back. So I score this a 5 of 10 on the Kluge index with 0 being- to buy two new components, $220 and 10 being a few wraps with baling twine. My fix is a fix at best and not something I'd want to explain to a concourse judge at Pebble Beach :nono2: Anyway, this fix looks effective. So I devoted 90 minutes to plastic welding one of MrTenBrook's worn our components ( why experiment on mine, right?) and I think the repair will work.
Plastic welder Amazone $130, is a hopped up soldering iron with a powerfully hot high setting and a spatula end for spruging (technical term) ABS plastic in the form of USA sourced zip ties from Summit Racing. Is all Chinese ABS on par? I think...ok perhaps...
So I spread the plastic like a welding bead. Where not molten it let go when worked. Rough shaping with a Dremel sanding drum. Flats leveled with a fresh sharp rasp.
Mom's calling me to dinner. One wheel repainted, center stand painted and ready to install. Lock tight?
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2023, 09:37:34 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 16, 2023, 09:58:25 PM
Another part of my fix in order to stop movement which leads to wear was to glue a strip of 2.25 mm thick insertion rubber into the channel of the pannniers.
Regards Martin.
Hey Martin! Great fix! 2.25mm thick. Check.
Post by: Martin on January 17, 2023, 02:30:21 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 17, 2023, 09:50:05 PM
Center stand is detailed and ready for install..then starter, alternator, ABS brain, battery. Big snow on the way so here's a chance to really move this beasty forward...Cheers and always a pleasure to hear from Martin way off yonder. Johnny you alive?
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 22, 2023, 09:09:36 PM
Can you identify the non oem cartridge components I have here? Those look good, but from the sludge i removed from the right slider I wasn't too surprised to find the bushings show considerable wear. If you look at my initual post I test rode it on date of purchase and fork oil was liberally flowing past the seal and all over the rotors.
Bushings and miscelaneous sealing o rings add $100 to the tab....no surprise though. And, yes the tab is well past a grand...
Painted the flip side of the front wheel so I'll soon be remounting the front rotors. Rustoleum makes a metal flake "Steel" wheel paint I used here. Really pops. Center stand received another top coat, installing that next followed by the starter, alternator ABS brain and Battery. Right or wrong I cut the leads to the ABS controller so I'll be soldering up some insulated spade connections or solder and sleeve them. Opinions?
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 27, 2023, 11:23:12 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 28, 2023, 09:20:41 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on January 28, 2023, 12:35:44 PM
So I learned a few things from restoring my bobbins so I’ll take a moment to describe some of my faux pas. I drive school bus, and made a faux pas yesterday turning around on an icy rural intersection. I needed only a short tug to regain traction. It was a lot like this job. Don’t rush, be patient… Think the whole job through before you proceed if you wish to only do the install once:
If both tips of the e -clip are NOT engaged in the bobbin slot and you force the clip you can over stretch it change its shape and ruin it… Don’t ask!
The washer ID matches the bobbin’s. If you slide the washer offset into the slot a wide gap, a smile where with just a bit o down pressure both sides of the clip can engage. From there it’s a simple matter of firmly pressing the clips home.
After a few it goes quicker…after mounting the rotors backwards you can throw one together in minutes.
I have two resistant caliper piston to extract after a morning in the ultrasonic bath. Here goes. Editing here at bed time after 24 hour ultrasonic pounding all 4 recalcitrant pistons released. once they were proud I just gripped and twiste wiht a channel locks.
Starter, alternator and ABS pump/battery mount next. 3-4 foot drift across my drive so Sunday is a shop day here.
Post by: milq on January 28, 2023, 08:38:17 PM
Edit to add: You might look into filament for 3D printers for some good quality plastics for welding, there are some fiber reinforced spools available out there.
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 02, 2023, 11:00:59 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 09, 2023, 09:15:45 AM
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=15082.0
Front strut parts arrived...very small box for $250! Could be jewels inside!
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 13, 2023, 08:48:27 PM
The depth of the U channel that grips a moulded edge is roughly 2mm taller than OEM. Nevertheless, it pushes home and grips tightly. "Yayy". about 24 linear inches does the job. There are kinks in the tube but my guess is that when pressed against the tank, stretche and warmed it will probably press evenly along the perimeter nicely.
Now I have two Purdue wheels…
Check!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 13, 2023, 09:45:32 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 14, 2023, 12:34:30 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 14, 2023, 07:35:27 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 14, 2023, 10:48:43 AM
I got some CRC Brakleen on my painted wheels and it spotted the paint.On the up-side, I once used CRC green Brakleen and a barbeque lighter to seat a stubborn Brick tire bead successfully. The wheel wasn't sullied but a neighbor's dog started barking. I don't recommend the procedure to riders under 70 years of age who have something to live for. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 14, 2023, 11:02:30 AM
The solvents in Brakleen are pretty strong. They're tough on aftermarket wheel paint, but the factory finish is more resistant to it.
Post by: Martin on February 14, 2023, 04:17:41 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: Rcgreaves on February 24, 2023, 09:14:10 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2023, 01:08:48 PM
The only steel wheels I have ever seen are the chromed rims on laced wheels. Everything else is aluminum alloy.
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 25, 2023, 02:53:03 PM
Gryph I have the valves of the R80 out today, lovely, other than trace surface rust. Lapping compound along with my ultrasonic cleaner will shine the shafts.Whats the right low buck way to dress the valve seat surface. Too busy today for reasearch. Cheers!
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2023, 03:34:30 PM
Hey Gryph et al: Cast Iron and with the heft to boot! See the attached.Hey, Rc et al.: Read this extract from Snowbum's site (https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/19inchrecall.htm) then BREAK OUT THE MAGNETS. :laughing4-giggles:
SOME 19 inch front cast aluminum snowflake wheels were 'recalled'. Not 18 inch front wheels. Not 18 inch rear wheels. Recall is only for certain Airheads 19 inch front wheels. Note that any fiche that says any of these wheels was cast IRON is faulty.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2023, 03:38:22 PM
The parts list says the same thing about the aluminum wheels on all the bricks that have wandered through my garage, and yet, not one has a wheel a magnet will stick to. These wheels are all die cast aluminum alloy. Cast iron would weigh three times as much and can't be made in a die casting machine.
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 25, 2023, 03:51:18 PM
My magnet says "Nay, you are alloy!! :nono2:
And i'll carefully inspect for hairline cracks in the wheel hub of the front wheel.
I have a hand lapping tool and Permatex lap compound on order.
:popcorm
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 25, 2023, 04:14:04 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2023, 04:47:18 PM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 25, 2023, 06:00:09 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2023, 06:52:37 PM
I believe I just got called a turkey :idunno:Sometimes a photo of turkeys is just a photo of turkeys, Rc---especially if it's irrelevant. :laughing4-giggles:
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 25, 2023, 08:09:16 PM
Post by: Laitch on February 25, 2023, 11:02:49 PM
And sometime a pic of the coolest motorcyclist of the cool is a relevant way to convey esteem....I only understand esteem in context. Were you riding to a golf excursion on that Triumph?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 18, 2023, 10:14:20 AM