Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 11:16:30 AM
I did an intro in the Welcome section but thought a thread here in the projects section makes sense since I a starting with parts instead of a whole bike. As mentioned in the intro I came across this project while looking for a K bike and I really couldn't resist. It is an 87 K100LT mostly in boxes and bins. The plan is to restore it as I reassemble the bike and acquire all the missing bits (if I can find them).
First thing I did was make a little dolly to be able to easily move the motor around the garage. I then sent the wheels out to get powdercoated after cleaning them ALOT. I also sent out the injectors to be serviced to Mr. Injector and sent the throttle bodies out to @distang on Instagram. I wasn't looking for that but happened across Distang and his K builds and he offers a great service for throttle bodies so I sent them to him and rather quickly they came back looking great.
I ordered some parts I know I will need and taking stock of other items that I will have to find. The challenge with starting from bits is that I don't have a reference for where things go and how they go back together since I didn't take this bike apart.
Some pictures below.
Thanks for looking...
Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 11:22:29 AM
Also pulled the transmission and lubed the splines and reinstalled it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 09, 2019, 12:30:50 PM
The o-ring life cycle is time dependent where the rear main seal is mileage dependent. The seal is probably okay if the engine has less than 100k miles on it.
Otherwise, things look pretty nice. The rear loop wasn't hacked off, and compared to the ones I have owned looks like it just came from the factory. That part of the frame usually gets awful rusty.
Post by: Martin on June 09, 2019, 12:54:48 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 01:15:25 PM
Welcome to the asylum from OZ. While you're there you might want to check and coat your gear position switch with something waterproof. You also might want to fit a grease nipple to your clutch arm.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin, I need to look into those things.
Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 01:21:01 PM
As long as the engine is still out of the frame, I would strongly suggest pulling the transmission and replacing the clutch o-ring. It's a 30 year old two dollar part that is almost guaranteed to start weeping slightly as soon as you put the bike on the road. If you wait, you are looking at a full day of pulling the whole back end of the bike apart and putting it all back together.
The o-ring life cycle is time dependent where the rear main seal is mileage dependent. The seal is probably okay if the engine has less than 100k miles on it.
Otherwise, things look pretty nice. The rear loop wasn't hacked off, and compared to the ones I have owned looks like it just came from the factory. That part of the frame usually gets awful rusty.
Thanks Mighty Gryphon. I appreciate the suggestion and I think I am going to follow your recommendation on the o-ring. I have a set of gaskets and o-rings and I probably have that one included. Not sure what other parts I will need to order to replace it but I will look into it. Better now than later as you say!
Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 02:26:19 PM
Also ordered a new sight glass and magnetic drain plug.
Post by: bocutter Ed on June 09, 2019, 02:56:29 PM
Not sure what other parts I will need to order to replace it but I will look into it. Better now than later as you say!A different machine but in the same vein, I picked up an old wood shaper, parts in a basket. I hand-tight assembled the machine, then took it apart so that a) I'd know what was missing or needed replacing and b) establish an assembly sequence. I dug up a manual on-line after assembly. Buttoning it up today.
Post by: FlatSix on June 09, 2019, 06:14:42 PM
A different machine but in the same vein, I picked up an old wood shaper, parts in a basket. I hand-tight assembled the machine, then took it apart so that a) I'd know what was missing or needed replacing and b) establish an assembly sequence. I dug up a manual on-line after assembly. Buttoning it up today.
Its a great feeling when it all comes together.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 09, 2019, 06:43:22 PM
Post by: FlatSix on June 10, 2019, 07:29:24 PM
Any time you aren't sure what some part is for or where it goes, just post a couple photos here. The Brain Trust has pretty much seen every part that goes into a brick.
It is a tremendous resource.
Post by: FlatSix on June 10, 2019, 07:32:36 PM
Post by: FlatSix on June 10, 2019, 07:44:24 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 10, 2019, 08:07:30 PM
Made this socket tool Sunday for installing the swingarm nut to proper torque. I wasn't feeling to well but it doesn't take much to get out the grinder and send some sparks flying. At least my son thinks it is cool.
Nice!
Post by: billday on June 11, 2019, 06:49:56 AM
Nice!
Yes, brilliant.
Post by: FlatSix on June 17, 2019, 11:56:11 AM
Can someone school me on the gear position switch? Mine looks OK but I haven't tested it or anything. I can see that the area is exposed so sealing it makes sense. Plasticote ( since I have some around)? Or what is the best approach?
On to the swingarm and final drive next.
Thanks in advance
Post by: mw074 on June 17, 2019, 12:14:19 PM
Post by: Martin on June 17, 2019, 04:03:29 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 17, 2019, 05:55:17 PM
Replace the screws with stainless Allen head screws, they'll be much, much easier to remove when the time comes again. Install the switch and test it with the instrument cluster before you install the swingarm. If necessary, that is a good time to clean the internals.
Post by: earlguy on June 18, 2019, 05:31:59 PM
Post by: billday on June 18, 2019, 05:38:48 PM
Post by: FlatSix on June 19, 2019, 09:47:28 AM
I used Plasticote about 15years ago and it's still hanging in. I used Red it makes for faster gear changes.
Regards Martin.
:eek2:
Whatever you decide to use(my favorite is marine epoxy resin), take some time to completely remove all the old, crumbling potting compound. Then clean the area well with electronics cleaner to remove any oil that may be there.
Replace the screws with stainless Allen head screws, they'll be much, much easier to remove when the time comes again. Install the switch and test it with the instrument cluster before you install the swingarm. If necessary, that is a good time to clean the internals.
I do have some marine epoxy and got some replacement stainless allen heads. Testing with the instrument cluster may mean unraveling the mouse nest of my wire harness, maybe. Good news is I did upgrade all the bulbs in my cluster with LEDs. As yet untested though.
Excellent work. Keep it up.
Thanks
How did you get the inside of your clutch housing so clean? I mean, it's cleaner than most of the surfaces in my kitchen.
It was already pretty clean. Just some brake dust around which came off with brake cleaner no problem. I consider myself lucky on this one.
Post by: FlatSix on June 24, 2019, 12:45:18 PM
Removed the gear indicator switch and cleaned it thoroughly. Looks as though someone already went to town with the JB Weld on it and it appears in good shape so I reinstalled with new bolts.
Drilled, tapped and installed grease fitting in the clutch actuator arm and reinstalled along with a new clutch rod cup gasket thingy. Seemed like I was on a roll so installed the swingarm, drive shaft and final drive. Lubed and torqued all to spec.
Reinstalled the lift handle with new rubber and a new spring. Looking good :)
The list of parts to order gets longer. I'm feeling the need to work on the footrests soon and also remove the valve cover and check my clearances. Probably paint the engine covers while I am at it. Haven't given the water pump much thought yet...Also not sure of the order of things but some new to me parts are on the way thanks to some forum members so cheers.
Dave
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on June 24, 2019, 01:49:41 PM
Post by: FlatSix on July 02, 2019, 10:40:01 AM
Also changed the fluid in the final drive.
Oh and I am going to paint the engine covers. Waiting on new bolts to arrive before I remove them. And time to check on the powdercoater and get my wheels back. And need to get some tires. And need to get the seat recovered, etc., etc. Thinking of a brown leather on the Corbin seat but not sure how that would look. May just stick with black but the original seat that came with the bike looks gray, might be pretty faded though.
Dave
Post by: FlatSix on July 10, 2019, 12:04:27 PM
But I do have a question for the experts. How does one go about installing these footpeg springs without losing an eye or messing up my freshly painted brackets? Is there a trick to it?
Should be able to pick up my freshly powdercoated wheels this week.
Dave
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2019, 07:45:06 PM
How does one go about installing these footpeg springs without losing an eye . . .Wear safety glasses.
Post by: FlatSix on July 11, 2019, 09:14:53 AM
Wear safety glasses.
:beer:
Post by: Laitch on July 11, 2019, 10:24:31 AM
Post by: FlatSix on July 17, 2019, 12:40:12 PM
I finally got the footpeg springs installed correctly. Sure its a simple task and should only take a few minutes but one of the drawbacks of not disassembling the parts is that I don’t intuitively know how they go back together. So let’s just say it took me a few extra minutes to figure out that there is a hole in the bottom of the footpeg for the spring to go in. :yikes:
Got some parts in including the signal minder which I thought would be a good addition. Still waiting on some parts and I don’t want to remove the engine covers and redo them until some new bolts come in from overseas. That has taken nearly a month but should be here soon.
I also modded the BMU to hopefully work with LED lights. My plan if I can figure it out is to use as many LED’s as possible on the bike. I got all LED’s on my Triumph and it works for the most part except the headlight flickers a little. But it still works. Hopefully I can get a better quality one and figure out how to prevent it for the K.
That’s all for now.
Post by: Laitch on July 17, 2019, 01:20:20 PM
I finally got the footpeg springs installed correctly. . . . So let’s just say it took me a few extra minutes to figure out that there is a hole in the bottom of the footpeg for the spring to go in.Perhaps you could go into more detail about how you installed the foot pegs to help the next person who is assembling them from a box of parts. Thanks for the update.
Post by: billday on July 17, 2019, 01:38:35 PM
Actually, right now I want the M&M's.
Post by: alabrew on July 17, 2019, 02:01:22 PM
Why do you need this? It should already have factory self canceling turn signals, or am I missing something...
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 17, 2019, 02:32:20 PM
I wanna see a picture of the M&M's Max sent you.
Actually, right now I want the M&M's.
My last couple orders didn't include M&M's. Got a bunch of MaxBMW stickers instead. :dunno
Post by: Laitch on July 17, 2019, 03:05:06 PM
My last couple orders didn't include M&M's. Got a bunch of MaxBMW stickers instead. :dunnoYou also got free shipping, right? The M&Ms were nice but I like the free shipping better.
Post by: FlatSix on July 17, 2019, 04:43:59 PM
Perhaps you could go into more detail about how you installed the foot pegs to help the next person who is assembling them from a box of parts. Thanks for the update.
Good idea. I will take a picture and follow up when I get home.
I wanna see a picture of the M&M's Max sent you.
Actually, right now I want the M&M's.
The M&M’s don’t last long around my house!
"Got some parts in including the signal minder which I thought would be a good addition."
Why do you need this? It should already have factory self canceling turn signals, or am I missing something...
I’m not familiar enough with the BMW flashers yet to answer that however, it does also flash the signal indicators along with the brakes when you hit them.
Also, I forgot to mention still no wheels from the powdercoater. I think I was right on not leaving the frame with him as well.
Post by: alabrew on July 17, 2019, 07:15:19 PM
Post by: DJEwen on July 18, 2019, 03:27:24 AM
Update:
I finally got the footpeg springs installed correctly. Sure its a simple task and should only take a few minutes but one of the drawbacks of not disassembling the parts is that I don’t intuitively know how they go back together. So let’s just say it took me a few extra minutes to figure out that there is a hole in the bottom of the footpeg for the spring to go in. :yikes:
Got some parts in including the signal minder which I thought would be a good addition. Still waiting on some parts and I don’t want to remove the engine covers and redo them until some new bolts come in from overseas. That has taken nearly a month but should be here soon.
I also modded the BMU to hopefully work with LED lights. My plan if I can figure it out is to use as many LED’s as possible on the bike. I got all LED’s on my Triumph and it works for the most part except the headlight flickers a little. But it still works. Hopefully I can get a better quality one and figure out how to prevent it for the K.
That’s all for now.
I feel your pain Dave, driving the old pins out initially then rebuilding everything after powder coat were two of the hardest tasks on my build. Well done.
Post by: FlatSix on July 20, 2019, 07:21:23 PM
Checking valve clearances and I have what appears to be a tight valve on #3 exhaust. I rotated the engine to double check and same result. Should I attempt to fix this or should I wait until I run the bike and then recheck?
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2019, 10:32:43 PM
Others have run their clearance and shim calculations by us here and you could do that, too.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 20, 2019, 10:51:56 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 20, 2019, 11:22:39 PM
Pull the shim and check for the number printed on it, then get the next thinner one. That will get you back in spec.I don't think so. This is an exhaust valve. Shims are manufactured in 0.05 increments and the valve's current clearance is 0.10 out of spec.
Post by: SpecialK on July 21, 2019, 04:24:52 PM
Pull the shim and check for the number printed on it, then get the next thinner one. That will get you back in spec.
I don't think so. This is an exhaust valve. Shims are manufactured in 0.05 increments and the valve's current clearance is 0.10 out of spec.
If it is 0.10mm out of spec, can't he just get the next two sizes down? So if his current shim is say 2.20mm he can get the 2.10mm shim? Never done it myself but I see the shims come 2.00mm - 3.00mm in 0.05 increments as Laitch says so it would seem to be the solution. Correct me if I'm missing something.
Post by: Laitch on July 21, 2019, 04:34:03 PM
If it is 0.10mm out of spec, can't he just get the next two sizes down? Correct me if I'm missing something.You're missing what I wrote, that is, 0.05 + 0.05 = 0.10 the amount needed to return the clearance to specification. If you've reasoned that a shim 0.10 less in thickness should be substituted, you are correct.
If the size isn't on the current shim, it will need measurement. A micrometer will provide the most accuracy.
Post by: FlatSix on July 21, 2019, 06:31:39 PM
Did give me a little time to work on repainting the engine covers and my guess is I won't be able to button up the engine for a few weeks now. In the meantime I will start working on something else. Perhaps the brake calipers which need a complete rebuild on all of them.
Post by: Laitch on July 21, 2019, 06:51:06 PM
And I was so close, it was the very last valve I checked and I thought I was going to be good. But alas that's how it goes.Rejoice that it goes with replacing just shims instead of buckets like on the 16V models. Shims less costly than OEM are available here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5018.msg108537.html#msg108537).
Post by: FlatSix on July 21, 2019, 08:26:38 PM
Rejoice that it goes with replacing just shims instead of buckets like on the 16V models. Shims less costly than OEM are available here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5018.msg108537.html#msg108537).
Thanks for the link!
Post by: billday on July 21, 2019, 08:35:01 PM
Also, note that many old Yamahas use the same size shim, which opens up more possible sources.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 21, 2019, 11:24:07 PM
Post by: FlatSix on July 22, 2019, 09:35:02 AM
When you get it out, post the size. I have a bunch of them laying in my tool chest. One of them might work for you.
Thank you very much!
The tools are on order so I took advantage of the break to work on refinishing the timing chain, camshaft and crankshaft covers. I guess it is true that the obstacle is the way, the impediment to action enhances action.
In case anyone needs to order the same or a few other tools Ken was quick to respond. His info is below:
Polepenhollow Valve Tools and Clutch Pilots
pelopenhollow@yahoo.com
The covers required some sanding, careful masking the paint and clear high temp semi-gloss. I think they came out OK but not perfect. A little dust flew into the garage and shows in the picture but they were dry and cured at that point.
More parts arrived at the end of last week including the two new tires. Powdercoater says the wheels are ready so I will be picking them up soon. We shall see!
Post by: SpecialK on July 22, 2019, 07:12:02 PM
The covers required some sanding, careful masking the paint and clear high temp semi-gloss. I think they came out OK but not perfect. A little dust flew into the garage and shows in the picture but they were dry and cured at that point.
How do you get the silver aluminum parts to come out after painting them black? Just wipe off the silver parts after the black goes on?
Post by: FlatSix on July 23, 2019, 09:21:48 AM
How do you get the silver aluminum parts to come out after painting them black? Just wipe off the silver parts after the black goes on?
Good morning. My process for painting these was to do all the sanding first. I had some imperfections which I sanded down to minimize but I didn't do any fill on them. But with the semi-gloss black they don't show very easily. I sanded all the black but not down to bare metal, just mostly scuffed for adhesion and to smooth things out. I also sanded with 120 in one direction all the bare aluminum sections that won't be painted. I then masked off all the aluminum parts with blue painters tape and probably spent an hour with a scalpel trimming the mask. After that three coats of black high-temp semi. Once that dried I carefully removed all the masking from the bare aluminum and then put three coats of high-temp semi clear over everything. Then let it cure overnight. Turned out OK, but like I said before not perfect. If I wanted perfect I would have filled the few small imperfections (mostly from rubbing of the fairings) and then painted but I like it as it turned out.
Hope that helps.
Post by: SpecialK on July 23, 2019, 01:14:45 PM
I then masked off all the aluminum parts with blue painters tape and probably spent an hour with a scalpel trimming the mask. After that three coats of black high-temp semi. Once that dried I carefully removed all the masking from the bare aluminum....
Hope that helps.
Sounds like you went to some length and a great deal of patience with the masking tape. Looks good from the photos.
Post by: FlatSix on July 23, 2019, 03:32:54 PM
Perhaps you could go into more detail about how you installed the foot pegs to help the next person who is assembling them from a box of parts. Thanks for the update.
Following up on this request:
Initially all my footpegs and brackets were in parts. So I had no experience with taking them apart and was staring at the stack of parts thinking, " how difficult could it be?" Looks easy enough.
I had ordered new rubbers for the footpegs along with some of the small parts from BMW necessary to refurbish with new, including new springs. I also ordered some stainless pivot pins, washers and cotter pins. I had to sand a little with sandpaper wrapped around a round file to get all the new stainless pins to push thru easily but with no slop. They ended up being tight but operated smoothly when everything was installed.
I tried to assemble everything then using a pair of needlenose pliers attempt to force the springs for both front footpegs in place with the vertical portion of the spring behind the peg, in essence to keep the peg extended but with the ability to flex back toward the bracket. That proved to be very difficult and I knew something wasn't right. No way would it be designed like that. So examining the parts I realized there was a small hole in the bottom of each footpeg which appeared to be the same size as the spring. If you look at the picture you can see where the vertical portion of the spring goes into the footpeg. So I assembled everything then tried again to install the spring in the small hole in the footpeg. This was also difficult but I thought doable. However my sense was this still wasn't probably how it was intended to go together.
So what I did was I put the stainless pin thru the bracket and footpeg but didn't install the small plastic bushing or washer or cotter pin yet. I just put the spring loosely on the pivot pin and was able to get the spring lined up with the hole in the footpeg with the other side resting against the bracket. I was then able to rather easily work the plastic bushing in place under the spring and install the washer and cotter pin. All done. I never did find instructions anywhere on the web on how to do it but my guess is that was how it was intended.
Hope that makes sense for anyone dealing with the same problem.
Post by: FlatSix on July 26, 2019, 09:10:53 AM
The markings on the shim are worn. All I can read is the number 5. Mic reading shows 2.55 and I am .10 under on the valve clearance.
Post by: billday on July 26, 2019, 09:22:09 AM
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 10:29:06 AM
Ken's tools are the best. When you said you were doing your valve clearances, I started racking my brain to remember his name but then it was clear you already knew all about him.
Thankfully an internet search helped me locate Ken's contact information and I sent him a message. He responded quickly and I got the tools on order and delivered within a few days.
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2019, 10:56:49 AM
Thankfully an internet search helped me locate Ken's contact information and I sent him a message.I'll post his contact information here for convenience. It's been on Motobrick since 2012. It's in the Repair Guidance (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2276.msg12385.html#msg12385) section. Please review it, Dave and update it if it isn't current.
Kenneth Lively
318 S Hart St
Palatine Il 60067
polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-855
Post by: johnny on July 29, 2019, 11:04:00 AM
and here since 16... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7833.0.html)
dont waste mobil 1 and techron... adjust your valves every august 9th... more on that later...
j o
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 11:26:53 AM
The wheels came back from powdercoating and they look great. I dropped off the frame to have it done as well, they say it will be only a couple of weeks :laugh:
Question regarding rear brakes: I have the stock rear cylinder and reservoir. It's pretty crusty but may be in perfect operational condition, I just don't know yet. I also see discussion about a cheap Chinese one as a good alternative. Is the stock part perfectly serviceable if it is in good order or if I rebuild it? Which performs best?
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 11:33:10 AM
I'll post his contact information here for convenience. It's been on Motobrick since 2012. It's in the Repair Guidance (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,2276.msg12385.html#msg12385) section. Please review it, Dave and update it if it isn't current.
Kenneth Lively
318 S Hart St
Palatine Il 60067
polepenhollow@yahoo.com
847-561-855
Correct, Ken is "da man!"
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 11:34:10 AM
greetings...
and here since 16... (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7833.0.html)
dont waste mobil 1 and techron... adjust your valves every august 9th... more on that later...
j o
I'm a sucker for a teaser.
Post by: billday on July 29, 2019, 12:05:01 PM
The intake tubes (manifolds) appear in good order, just in need of some cleaning. Before and after attached. Thankfully, because they about $50 a piece!
The price on those manifolds for the early K100s is crazy. When I did mine I put some red liquid gasket stuff where they meet the engine block. That didn't hurt and may have helped.
When you reassemble the manifolds, the screw clamps need to be arranged *just so* for everything to fit. Be prepared for some fiddly jiggering.
Question regarding rear brakes: I have the stock rear cylinder and reservoir. It's pretty crusty but may be in perfect operational condition, I just don't know yet. I also see discussion about a cheap Chinese one as a good alternative. Is the stock part perfectly serviceable if it is in good order or if I rebuild it? Which performs best?
You know how the price for the manifolds is crazy? You can get a brand new BMW rear brake fluid reservoir for practically nothing. Others have used aftermarket but I like the shape of the OEM.
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 12:12:05 PM
When I did mine I put some red liquid gasket stuff where they meet the engine block. That didn't hurt and may have helped.
There must be an o-ring or gasket that goes there, right? I can see a groove in the bottom of the manifold where it mounts to the block. I can't imagine there not being a gasket.
Post by: billday on July 29, 2019, 12:15:34 PM
There must be an o-ring or gasket that goes there, right? I can see a groove in the bottom of the manifold where it mounts to the block. I can't imagine there not being a gasket.
Mine looked like some sort of O ring was permanently bonded in, and the fiche doesn't show an O ring as a separate part.
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 12:21:29 PM
Mine looked like some sort of O ring was permanently bonded in, and the fiche doesn't show an O ring as a separate part.
Looks like there is:
Manufacturer Part # : 11 61 1 465 169
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2019, 02:41:09 PM
Manufacturer Part # : 11 61 1 465 169Illustrations for the location of a part with that number indicate that it belongs in a 16-valve (4V) engine, not in an 8-valve (2V) engine. Your moto has a 2V engine. Go with billday's strategy; don't let your imagination run wild. Your parts holding plates are festive!
Post by: FlatSix on July 29, 2019, 06:13:19 PM
Illustrations for the location of a part with that number indicate that it belongs in a 16-valve (4V) engine, not in an 8-valve (2V) engine. Your moto has a 2V engine. Go with billday's strategy; don't let your imagination run wild. Your parts holding plates are festive!
Aha! I stand corrected, thank you.
Post by: Laitch on July 29, 2019, 11:53:02 PM
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-290719234148.png)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-300719000427.png)
Post by: FlatSix on July 30, 2019, 10:26:46 AM
This is a K100 2V intake manifold stub.It is part number 11611460408. The ridge indicated by the arrow fits into the groove machined into the cylinder head intake port. More parts get clamped onto the top of it and finally connected to the plenum. Use a parts fiche for clarification—like this one (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51752&rnd=07242017). The part is in one of the 11-Engine section's diagrams. You might recognize it as a virgin specimen of the subjects in the second photo.
Thank you, I thought I recalled a groove in mine however it could have been a ridge instead. MaxBMW has been a helpful resource and the source for many parts.
Post by: FlatSix on July 31, 2019, 09:35:29 AM
IMG_3590.jpg (43.7 kB . 768x576 - viewed 1010 times)
Post by: Rcgreaves on August 02, 2019, 07:57:16 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 05, 2019, 10:07:05 AM
Got the proper shim in the mail, installed and rechecked all the clearances and we are a GO! Buttoned up the covers, boy I was thinking there must be a trick to getting the gaskets installed in situ without them dropping out of place but followed the manual and got 'er done. Gapped and installed the plugs and wires. Cleaned all the connections with DeOxit and put the coils back on. Overcome with excitement as to having made it this far I couldn't resist putting the intakes and injectors on the motor. She is a beauty when put together.
It was then that I realized the FLAPS in my area don't carry the proper size vacuum line for the bike. Heck probably don't carry any proper hoses that I will need so I will work on securing all those. Any suggestions are welcome. Probably more money for MAXBMW.
Should be able to get the tires mounted this week. If the frame comes back any time soon from powdercoating we can really start to look like a road worthy bike again.
:smiley:
Post by: FlatSix on August 09, 2019, 03:42:06 PM
- Shop one is the shop I used to have my rear tire removed a few weeks ago and prior to having the wheels redone. I just drove over there and they were closed. Thought it might have been just a Monday that they were closed but when I tried to call the number was out of service. I have driven by a few times and they are definitely gone.
- Shop two was Cycle Gear. They were very helpful and friendly but a little nervous about the fresh powdercoat and recommend I take them elsewhere. They gave me a number of a shop that was too far away and I didn't have time to make it over there. Still don't really want to drive there. Reality is it's a big city and I can find someplace but I am trying to not spend hours driving around to get two tires mounted.
- Shop three was the motorcycle dealership next door to Cycle Gear. Multi-dealership including BMW. Service department had a couple of big signs stating they don't install tires that aren't purchased at the dealership. I tried to talk them into it a little but I could tell quickly it was going nowhere.
- Shop four was the mobile tire installer I have used previously on two cars. He was nice enough and said he wasn't sure he could do motorcycle tires but he would try. I told him I will call next time I need tires on the SUV. BTW, great deal...kinda like Discount Tire coming to your house or work and putting on new tires.
- Shop five...speaking of Discount Tire. Called them on a lark and well, you know the answer there.
- Shop six. Cycle shop about 10 minutes North of my house. Would be the ideal location except I work an hour away and not easy to get there before they close at 6pm. But I called them anyway and they answered. "Wish you would have called a few weeks ago. Owner is retiring and we are closing up shop and not accepting any new work" Darn.
At this point I am kinda giving myself an F in tire installation. So I am going to do it myself. As for balancing I will probably just do a hillbilly balance or use balancing beads. Not sure.
Later
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 09, 2019, 04:07:20 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Motorcycle-Rim-Protectors-08-0357/282821124897?epid=1442392898&hash=item41d973e321:g:edkAAOSw0g1akYko
s-l500.jpg (17.17 kB . 500x377 - viewed 1575 times)Post by: FlatSix on August 09, 2019, 04:44:32 PM
I have four of these guys that I use when changing tires. They do a nice job of protecting the finish on the rim.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Motorcycle-Rim-Protectors-08-0357/282821124897?epid=1442392898&hash=item41d973e321:g:edkAAOSw0g1akYko
Good idea. Mr. Bezos will be sending some my way.
Post by: KosmicK1100 on August 10, 2019, 12:39:29 AM
Cheers!
Post by: FlatSix on August 16, 2019, 01:07:54 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 16, 2019, 01:09:08 PM
You are doing a beautiful restoration! It takes a lot of guts to put a bike together from a pile of parts! I admire the quality of your work!
Cheers!
Thanks Kosmic
Post by: FlatSix on August 26, 2019, 11:52:17 AM
I hate to sound like such a newbie but can someone help me out with a question?
What is the difference of the fuel tank with bridge mounting vs. fuel tank with plug mounting? It seems to impact a few things.
(Update: I think I figured it out from the manual. Just don't know which version I have for sure without inspecting the tank...I think...but I believe I have the plug mounting version.)
Also, being in a hot climate in South TX is it recommended to install a fuel line radiator? I have seen reference to it but not entirely sure. If so is there a preference on radiator and location?
Thanks
Dave
Post by: Laitch on August 26, 2019, 12:57:31 PM
I hate to sound like such a newbie . . .You don't sound like a newbie; you sound like somebody who doesn't know how to Web search.
What is the difference of the fuel tank with bridge mounting vs. fuel tank with plug mounting? . . .
(Update: I think I figured it out from the manual. Just don't know which version I have for sure without inspecting the tank...I think...but I believe I have the plug mounting version.)
Fuel tank bridge mounting plate on rear of tank.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260819122735.png)
Frame with bridge-mounted tank.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260819122958.png)
Fuel tank with mounting posts.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260819123129.png)
Frame with fuel tank mounting post receiver bosses.
(https://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-260819123228.png)
. . . being in a hot climate in South TX is it recommended to install a fuel line radiator? If so is there a preference on radiator and location?
It's called a fuel cooler. Hot fuel in the tank radiates heat to the rider. The Mighty Gryphon has an excellent instructive thread on choosing and mounting one. Click on Search Guidance in the menu under the page banner to mount a search for that post.
You should also add a johnny blanket to your modifications if you intend to keep the fairing.
Post by: johnny on August 26, 2019, 01:53:05 PM
i did my corbin butt board in brown... well half of it anyway...
[ Invalid Attachment ]
j o
Post by: FlatSix on August 26, 2019, 02:27:06 PM
You don't sound like a newbie; you sound like somebody who doesn't know how to Web search.
Fuel tank bridge mounting plate on rear of tank.
Thanks. I guess that is fair but I did search this site and couldn't easily locate any info. I'm pretty sure I have the plug mount version. I want to make sure I don't mess this up because I see the manual has different install procedures for the frame.
It's called a fuel cooler. Hot fuel in the tank radiates heat to the rider. The Mighty Gryphon has an excellent instructive thread on choosing and mounting one. Click on Search Guidance in the menu under the page banner to mount a search for that post.
Thank you.
You should also add a johnny blanket to your modifications if you intend to keep the fairing.
[/quote]
Excellent suggestion, thanks. I don't have the fairings yet. Most were sold off by my seller before I got the bike. But I have been thinking of just sticking with stock fairings unless there is a better way to go for me. I do know whatever way I go with the fairings I will paint them a different color.
Post by: FlatSix on August 26, 2019, 02:28:02 PM
greetings...
i did my corbin butt board in brown... well half of it anyway...
j o
That is exactly the color I was thinking. Looks awesome!
Post by: Laitch on August 26, 2019, 03:27:32 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 28, 2019, 12:47:43 PM
One thing I noticed in looking thru the Service Bulletin 2575 on vibrations is the mention of a "support ring."
Screw in all 5 bolts loosely by hand, but not as far as the bolt heads. When assembling, insert a 1mm shim at the right front between the crankcase and rubber mountings, with a support ring on the outside. (1)
There is an image with an inset showing a shim on the inside and a support ring on the outside of where the frame mounts. I don't see a support ring in the parts fiche. Perhaps this isn't for my bike as it appears this bulletin might refer to the K100RS 16V, and not being an expert this may be a different mount than mine.
Am I missing something?
Post by: Laitch on August 28, 2019, 04:11:11 PM
Am I missing something?Yes. Service Bulletin 2575 refers to 16 valve engines and yours is an 8 valve. You're determined to make this more complicated than it needs to be, aren't you?:-)
Post by: FlatSix on August 28, 2019, 04:16:38 PM
Yes. Service Bulletin 2575 refers to 16 valve engines and yours is an 8 valve. You're determined to make this more complicated than it needs to be, aren't you?:-)
Haha! Indeed sir.
Too much time between parts deliveries I suppose.
Thank you.
Post by: FlatSix on September 03, 2019, 02:52:47 PM
Post by: billday on September 03, 2019, 02:58:50 PM
Very interested to see and read about fitting the harness to the frame. The thought of that has always scared me off even contemplating a frame-off project myself.
Post by: FlatSix on September 03, 2019, 03:49:07 PM
Just want to say how much I'm enjoying following your project.
Very interested to see and read about fitting the harness to the frame. The thought of that has always scared me off even contemplating a frame-off project myself.
Thanks billday.
Post by: FlatSix on September 16, 2019, 10:49:36 AM
Took care of the rear MC and brake switch. My reservoir hose looks like it needs to be replaced as well. Got all the hoses in for the radiator and installed. Installed new front wheel bearings. Installed rear shock. It's had a rebuild then sitting in the box uninstalled for years apparently...if I recall correctly. We will see. If it doesn't work out I will just replace with a new one.
I want to rebuild the front forks - springs and seals. Don't have the parts yet but I will start looking for a good option for progressive springs.
Started looking at the wiring. I am going to give it the once over. I laid it all out on the floor in the garage and it doesn't look too bad.
That's all for now.
Post by: FlatSix on October 07, 2019, 11:57:00 AM
Another parts order came in so I got a few more bits buttoned up. Put the wiring in to see some things and take some measurements. Pretty sure I will go thru the wiring and re-tape and clean everything and cross my fingers. Found myself staring more than doing this past weekend for some reason. I think I will call it "planning."
I'm ready to put in the new head bearings and rebuild the fork tubes. Also thinking of going thru the water/oil pump to make sure I don't have any issues there. Most likely its all good but I can't just leave it be without checking.
Prost!
Post by: Laitch on October 07, 2019, 01:10:03 PM
Also thinking of going thru the water/oil pump to make sure I don't have any issues there. Most likely its all good but I can't just leave it be without checkingIf it isn't leaking, it doesn't have issues. They'll come after you check it for issues. :-)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 07, 2019, 06:27:35 PM
Post by: FlatSix on October 08, 2019, 12:28:38 PM
If it isn't leaking, it doesn't have issues. They'll come after you check it for issues. :-)
Laitch you have me worried now! Perhaps an offering to the brick deity is in order instead. I might be OK with that.
Looking pretty spiffy there. Nice job!
Thank you sir!
Post by: Laitch on October 08, 2019, 12:43:48 PM
Laitch you have me worried now! Perhaps an offering to the brick deity is in order instead. I might be OK with that.Worried about the consequences from lack of self-control? Don't worry. They're nothing that time and money can't mitigate. You probably shouldn't consider offerings to the brick deity though. Around here they are often burnt ones.
Good luck with the wiring. :-)
Post by: FlatSix on October 21, 2019, 01:25:48 PM
As for the bearings I was greatly helped by the Chris Harris video on removal and replacement. I thought I might get to employ my hydraulic press which sits so lonely most of the time but I was a little unsure of pressing out the stem partially to remove the bearing as the repair manual states so I was relieved when viewing the video I found I could employ hammer and chisel. I did also use the dremel to give the chisel some purchase after removing the cage and rollers. A few good whacks and it came loose. Then freezing the stem and heating the new bearing with a torch and she dropped right in. A BFH for the races and they slipped right in also.
Fitted the rebuilt rear caliper and test fit the wheel to check for clearance and any other issues. Nice to see the wheel on and things coming together.
Next up is the front forks and brake calipers. Oh, and there still is the wiring which I will be needing some mediation music.
Dave
Post by: FlatSix on November 05, 2019, 05:53:16 PM
I also received a new front fairing which was in pretty good shape when I ordered it however the shipper cracked the front. Looks like something was loaded on top of it and its got a what I would call "forceful" break in it. Repairable of course but more work I didn't plan on. Working with the seller to see if the shipper will offer any help. Not really hopeful there.
Speaking of shipping I got a call last week while I was in the Newark airport that at first glance I thought would be a robocall so I almost didn't answer. But I did and was surprised it was DHL checking if I received two boxes of parts from the great white north that were shipped to me in JULY! I did but really? From July? Sigh, moving on...
Dave
Post by: billday on November 06, 2019, 04:52:21 PM
Post by: Laitch on November 06, 2019, 06:44:46 PM
But I did and was surprised it was DHL checking if I received two boxes of parts from the great white north that were shipped to me in JULY! I did but really? From July? Sigh, moving on...They were likely backtracking during an investigation of diverted shipments.
Post by: FlatSix on November 22, 2019, 04:45:38 PM
Nevertheless I did get some work done on assembling the forks and refinishing the center stand. I am getting near needing to put the electrical in so there is that, plus I have been dreaming (literally) about color for the bike. I am not entirely sold on the original color. Been considering some blues. Started cleaning up and polishing the exhaust. I think I overdid it on one of the pipes using a brass wire wheel. May have to get a new one and try another approach. I did get some stainless exhaust studs but attempting to remove the first old stud proved difficult and I think I might just leave the original ones where they are and not tempt fate.
Broke a fuel tap off in the tank on the Triumph so pulled the tank and now thinking of repainting it as well, maybe maroon...
Dave
Post by: SpecialK on November 22, 2019, 08:25:17 PM
How did you support the bike to get the center stand off? Put blocks under the oil pan?
Was the stand hard to get off and how are you refinishing it?
I want to do mine that's why I ask. Thanks
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 22, 2019, 10:23:47 PM
Post by: FlatSix on November 23, 2019, 10:51:29 AM
How did you support the bike to get the center stand off? Put blocks under the oil pan?
Was the stand hard to get off and how are you refinishing it?
I want to do mine that's why I ask. Thanks
My bike is currently on a small wood cart with wheels that I made for the refurb project. The stand wasn't difficult to remove at all. I would have it back on the bike already except that I was missing one of the bushing circlips and it's on order with a bunch of other stuff. I refinished it with Rustoleum "professional grade" truck bed coating from Wally-world. The stuff is reasonable durable. Good luck with your project.
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 23, 2019, 11:09:25 AM
Post by: daveson on November 23, 2019, 03:52:44 PM
I admire your attention to detail and patience on this. I spose with this much of a rebuild, it's a bonus you bought your brick in bits.
Another way to remove the centre stand is to simply lean your bike against a wall and unbolt it. Use wheel chocks, and if you want to get real anal about it engage the steering lock, so things don't go pear shaped that way. A more simple way than using the steering lock would be to build an upside down table shaped, wheel and bike retaining system from a few pieces of plywood and 4 by 2's (2 by 4's in the good ol U S of A)
Post by: FlatSix on November 27, 2019, 12:08:33 PM
Hi FlatSix,
I admire your attention to detail and patience on this. I spose with this much of a rebuild, it's a bonus you bought your brick in bits.
I hear ya mate. I did enter this endeavor willingly. The thing that stumps me sometimes is that I didn't disassemble the bike, and having never owned a brick, I find I don't exactly know how everything came apart and how to put it back. I mean, I will figure it out but with other bikes and cars I have taken them apart and made mental notes on what goes where and in what order. C'est la vie...
Been staring at my F'd up front fairing and trying to decide if it's worth fixing or should I just get another. I should point out that the fairing has another previous repair where it attaches to the front bracket that I'm not really happy with either.
Post by: Rcgreaves on November 27, 2019, 12:21:39 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 27, 2019, 12:50:01 PM
While the repair with polyester looks real nice, and can bond fairly well, over time or in a repeat accident, the repair patch will release from the part. It won't be as strong as a repair made with epoxy.
Post by: FlatSix on November 27, 2019, 03:21:08 PM
I purchased my 75S with fairing damage. Though tedious I did extensive fiberglass restoration, (better results generally than ABS) and liked the results. Feel free to call over the holiday if you need fiberglassing insites? Glad to entertain Brick inquiries anytime..6087261554
Thanks Rcgreaves.
One thing I learned after several repairs is that they should be done with epoxy instead of polyester resin. The reason is that the BMW fairing parts are made using bulk molding compound that has a wax mold release agent incorporated in the material. This wax prevents a strong bond with the repair. Epoxy creates a stronger bond.
While the repair with polyester looks real nice, and can bond fairly well, over time or in a repeat accident, the repair patch will release from the part. It won't be as strong as a repair made with epoxy.
I work with Epoxy quite a bit, so that would be my preference. Really not looking forward to doing this work.
Post by: FlatSix on December 13, 2019, 02:59:38 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 13, 2019, 03:08:13 PM
Still, it's gonna be a beautiful piece of machinery. Nice work!!!
Post by: FlatSix on December 13, 2019, 03:28:52 PM
Fork boots!!! You need fork boots. Gotta hide those shiny fork tubes.
Still, it's gonna be a beautiful piece of machinery. Nice work!!!
Darn! those shiny naked tubes must be stopped...
Thanks for the reminder TMG. Will be on the next order.
Post by: FlatSix on December 13, 2019, 04:10:58 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K75RT-K75-RT-1-92-OEM-Heated-Throttle-grips/323912108129?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D2aafe780dc9a4bf3ba80afbb0e678704%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D132530119617%26itm%3D323912108129%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aaa6d0153-1de8-11ea-99a1-74dbd18097b4%7Cparentrq%3A00fce63216f0a9e47650636cffb6373a%7Ciid%3A1
Post by: volador on December 14, 2019, 05:43:58 PM
Will these work on my '87?Maybe if you have the rest of the heated grip components: HG type handlebars specific with or without bar ends, harness, HG switch
61312300383 SET: RETROFIT KIT, HEATED HANDLE This kit only applies to models that do not have bar end weights.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383 (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383)
HG handlebar has a hole on the bottom tube in-between upper fork brace handlebar clamps for routing grip wires through connect under the fuel tank
Clutch side has 2- small holes tapped to hold clutch side grip in place
retrofit regular type handlebar after drilling 3 holes I believe is in the kit instruction manual
Post by: FlatSix on December 14, 2019, 07:10:10 PM
Maybe if you have the rest of the heated grip components: HG type handlebars specific with or without bar ends, harness, HG switch
61312300383 SET: RETROFIT KIT, HEATED HANDLE This kit only applies to models that do not have bar end weights.
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383 (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300383)
HG handlebar has a hole on the bottom tube in-between upper fork brace handlebar clamps for routing grip wires through connect under the fuel tank
Clutch side has 2- small holes tapped to hold clutch side grip in place
retrofit regular type handlebar after drilling 3 holes I believe is in the kit instruction manual
Thanks so much for the reply. Will the grips work if I have the other components (wiring, harness and switch)?
Here are my handlebars. There seems to be the hole in the bottom tube between the handlebar clamps. It might be difficult to see in the picture.
Sorry don't mean to be dense, just some of the parts were sold off the bike before I got it. I would like to add the HG option if possible.
Post by: Laitch on December 14, 2019, 07:25:49 PM
. . . some of the parts were sold off the bike before I got it. I would like to add the HG option if possible.Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.
You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/symtec/symtec.htm).
Post by: volador on December 14, 2019, 09:28:25 PM
If you're a gambling person make seller an offer and find out.
otherwise 61312300382
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300382 (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx?&searchtype=undefined&parts=61312300382)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 14, 2019, 11:54:48 PM
I say this because I have found heated grips to be okay to heat my palms, but they do very little to keep the rest of my hands warm when riding in cold weather. You would be better served by a heated jacket liiner and gloves. They have the advantage of being able to warm your core along with your hands, and they are able to be used with every bike you own along with any in the future.
Post by: volador on December 15, 2019, 01:16:32 AM
A sleek pair of Kappa KS603 hand protectors in lieu of Vetter Hippo Hands
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf)
Post by: FlatSix on December 16, 2019, 11:26:00 AM
Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.
You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/symtec/symtec.htm).
You make a very good point. I honestly do not want to cobble anything together on this bike unless I have no option.
Volador has summed it up. That's one of the holes to which he referred. The K100LT has bar end weights to reduce vibrations. The eBay grips don't have accommodation for those weights. The OEM LT grips accommodate weights. It's likely you might adapt the eBay offering but you've come this far with high quality restoration so cobbling something together wouldn't fit the profile of this moto.
You can add heated grips. The wiring harness should have a plug for them already. There is also an effective aftermarket option with installation instructions offered at this link (http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/symtec/symtec.htm).
At this point I think I will take a pass on the Ebay ones. Mosts likely go with some new ones.
You probably don't want to hear it, but from my experience, if the bike doesn't have heated grips, they aren't worth the hassle to install them. You would be better served with heated gloves.
I say this because I have found heated grips to be okay to heat my palms, but they do very little to keep the rest of my hands warm when riding in cold weather. You would be better served by a heated jacket liiner and gloves. They have the advantage of being able to warm your core along with your hands, and they are able to be used with every bike you own along with any in the future.
I didn't think about that but you are right, heated gloves and jacket liner would do a much better job of keeping me warm.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/5332-151219011204.jpeg)
A sleek pair of Kappa KS603 hand protectors in lieu of Vetter Hippo Hands
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kappa-Pair-of-hand-protectors-for-motorcycles-and-scooters-KS603/202665725321?epid=1943130304&hash=item2f2fd18d89:g:tw8AAOSwMmBVnrjf)
At first I thought "well that's just weird looking" but upon reflection it does look to be a very effective option. And not very expensive. Thanks
Post by: FlatSix on December 16, 2019, 12:23:17 PM
Also started refreshing the handlebar parts. Cleaned the switches and installed a new turn button on the left switch. I should have taken a "before" picture as it was really mucky. But looking pretty good now.
Had to throw on the tail section and seat because, well just gotta see her come together. Just a temporary placement. The seat is coming apart so I need to have a plan on where to get it redone.
Post by: alabrew on December 17, 2019, 05:17:25 PM
Post by: cycleman on December 17, 2019, 07:43:17 PM
Heated jackets or vests also work well, but I find if I have heated grips and a fairing I can get away with just the heated grips and layers of polyester clothing under my riding jacket & pants. I always carry a spare set of gloves with me.
With respect to the fuel cooler you might wish to relocate the Fuel Pressure Regulator as well to get it out of the heat soak behind the throttle bodies. With it moved and the fuel rail and hoses insulated with reflective material used in car racing etc, comes in various lengths and diameters as well as flat sheets that you can use on the tank, it will greatly cut down on the heat in the gas tank. Check out a place that supplies the racing fellows. If you are not going to put the fairing lowers on then you can get away with out any of the above. Check this site or the web for descriptions of those that have modified the fuel hoses etc.
If you check at a body shop supply place they have some fiberglass fillers stuff, with Kevlar, that comes in a squeezable bag and you just add hardener, it is designed for plastic. I've used it to rebuild fenders and small tabs on side panels with excellent results. This stuff sets up quickly and gets hard as a rock when it cures, so you want to do some preliminary filling before it hardens fully. Read the directions. You crack looks pretty big so you would need a layer of something like fiberlgass on the inner side, to support it.
You've done a good job and keep going.
Post by: FlatSix on December 18, 2019, 01:08:30 PM
Can you give a little more detail in how you cleaned up the switches? I'm not making much progress.
No problem. Mostly the switches needed just a good cleaning. So I cleaned the buttons with degreaser and 3M scotchbrite pads. They can be a little aggressive so as to not eliminate the markings on the buttons I used my favorite... Mister Clean Magic Eraser. Great for cleaning things and the yellow/red buttons responded well to this. I also used Deoxit on all the electrical components. I decided to replace the orange turn button as mine looked more faded than the yellow or red buttons and I could easily order a replacement and it's only 1 small screw to replace. For the right hand switches I will probably order new ones. Mine look OK but the buttons are broken and I haven't found a source for replacement (other than the orange one). The whole switch is available new thankfully.
Hope that helps.
Post by: billday on December 18, 2019, 02:14:40 PM
Post by: FlatSix on December 18, 2019, 03:30:44 PM
I ride in a cold climate and heated grips are the only way to go. I've bought bikes with Oxford Heated Grips and they work every bit as good as the BMW factory ones, just that you don't have the hidden wiring. You have to figure out where & how you want the wiring to work at the grips before you cement them in place. I used the Oxford Heated Grips for Sport bikes, on my K100RT, closest length to stock and they are designed to work with bar end weights. They have different lengths and most of them are trim able for length. Check them out.
Heated jackets or vests also work well, but I find if I have heated grips and a fairing I can get away with just the heated grips and layers of polyester clothing under my riding jacket & pants. I always carry a spare set of gloves with me.
With respect to the fuel cooler you might wish to relocate the Fuel Pressure Regulator as well to get it out of the heat soak behind the throttle bodies. With it moved and the fuel rail and hoses insulated with reflective material used in car racing etc, comes in various lengths and diameters as well as flat sheets that you can use on the tank, it will greatly cut down on the heat in the gas tank. Check out a place that supplies the racing fellows. If you are not going to put the fairing lowers on then you can get away with out any of the above. Check this site or the web for descriptions of those that have modified the fuel hoses etc.
If you check at a body shop supply place they have some fiberglass fillers stuff, with Kevlar, that comes in a squeezable bag and you just add hardener, it is designed for plastic. I've used it to rebuild fenders and small tabs on side panels with excellent results. This stuff sets up quickly and gets hard as a rock when it cures, so you want to do some preliminary filling before it hardens fully. Read the directions. You crack looks pretty big so you would need a layer of something like fiberlgass on the inner side, to support it.
You've done a good job and keep going.
Thank you for all this. Do you have any thoughts on seat heaters? I need to have my seat redone and I was thinking that since the cover will be off I might use that opportunity to add a seat heater for rider and passenger. Never had one on a bike but as I get older I find the seat heaters in my car getting used more often.
Had not thought about moving the fuel pressure regulator. I will look into where it could be mounted. I do plan on adding the fairing lowers at this time. However I might change my mind...
I was watching Youtube videos on fairing repairs recently. I think it is doable but honestly I still wish I just had a solid fairing that didn't need repairing.
Post by: Laitch on December 18, 2019, 04:05:22 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 18, 2019, 04:35:18 PM
Post by: alabrew on December 18, 2019, 07:13:01 PM
Post by: FlatSix on December 19, 2019, 12:22:40 PM
Does your moto have a 50A alternator? Operating heated gloves, a jacket, a seat, pants, socks, a Garmin, a toaster oven and etc., the stock 30A will be getting a stress test.
Nope, stock 30Amper. Good to keep in mind that I don't want to overtax the system... Could have gone with the 50A version but decided not to at the time. Clearly not all my choices are good.
Where in Texas are you located? It's not one of the places where I would expect anyone to need heated grips. Even up here in shouting distance from the Great White North I can ride late into the year without them. Usually if it's cold enough to need heated grips, the roads are coated with ice and enough salt to make an anchovy jealous. Not the best environment for a bike.
Slightly south of Hell where it gets pretty warm in the summer. But a boy can dream of escape, can't he?
greetings...
seat heators... ridor and passengor... ha ha ha ha ha...
any moar questions...
j o
OK, so its a no on the seat heaters.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 19, 2019, 01:03:06 PM
A 50A alternator is really only necessary if you plan long two up trips in temperatures near freezing.
Post by: FlatSix on December 20, 2019, 10:56:41 AM
Running draw on a stock K bike is conservatively estimated at about 18-20 amps. If you use LED driving lights at 10 watts that rises about 2 more amps. That leaves you at least 7-8 amps for heated gear or about 80-90 watts of heat. If you layer properly above it, that is enough heat to make you medium/well done after a day of riding.
A 50A alternator is really only necessary if you plan long two up trips in temperatures near freezing.
Thank you for that info. I do plan to go full LED if I can sort it all out.
Post by: FlatSix on January 06, 2020, 05:50:01 PM
Mostly electrical work of late. Re-wrapped the wiring harness. Also cleaning of some old parts and installed the pod and instrument cluster. Also continued my work on the handlebar grips but I am still waiting for parts. At one point the electrical appeared overwhelming and I was thinking Oh boy what did I get myself into. But as I make a little progress sorting it out I feel better. I have the schematics and the PO labeled the harness but about half the labels are unreadable so not of much use.
I bought a battery a while ago which has been just sitting in the box. Turns out it isn't exactly the right one but I am trying to make it work. I was at a bike retailer locally and the guy working there was so nice and genuinely helpful that I wanted to buy something from the shop. So while I was there I was thinking what could I buy and I thought, heck I could buy the battery here and won't have to ship it. So he looked it up in his computer and I spent too much money on a brand new Yuasa AGM battery and acid. Turns out it is a little too tall and the posts are top or front mount. Top mount is tough since it is too tall. I did get longer hold down bolts.
My seat escapades are for another post.
Dave
Post by: billday on January 06, 2020, 06:59:47 PM
Good on you for keeping on! Whenever I think about taking a bike down to the frame, the thought of the wiring harness makes me exhausted.
Post by: Laitch on January 07, 2020, 09:16:04 AM
. . . I spent too much money on a brand new Yuasa AGM battery and acid. Turns out it is a little too tall . . .Please tell us the battery case height and other dimensions. They might be helpful for others to know.
I bought my moto six years ago and it had a Yuasa battery in it. So far, it's run approximately 60 thousand miles without using a battery tender, just disconnecting it during six months of unheated winter storage.
Post by: FlatSix on January 07, 2020, 05:55:44 PM
The battery that Beemer Boneyard sells for the K is also "too tall". They include longer bolts. So you can get along with a battery that's snuggled up to the brain.
Good on you for keeping on! Whenever I think about taking a bike down to the frame, the thought of the wiring harness makes me exhausted.
Thanks billday. The thing with electrical I have found over the years is that if I remove it and mark things or take pictures (better with marking) than I can remember how to put it back together. In this case it was already apart so I am trying to not only figure what goes where but how to route things. But yes it is exhausting. I will get it done a little bit at a time.
Please tell us the battery case height and other dimensions. They might be helpful for others to know.
I bought my moto six years ago and it had a Yuasa battery in it. So far, it's run approximately 60 thousand miles without using a battery tender, just disconnecting it during six months of unheated winter storage.
Laitch I went with the Yuasa YIX30L-BS battery on referral from my friendly moto parts supplier. I looked up on the Yuasa site and they do have that battery as one of the recommendations for "K" bikes. I think it will work. Metric Dimensions: 166mm x 126mm x 175mm
I may try to move things around so as to front mount the cables. Also wish I had terminals covers but I can buy something for a few buck from the Bay or Amazon I'm sure.
What I failed to mention in the post above is that I have a nice gouge on the side of my head from hitting the handlebar ends which are currently exposed. I should put a tennis ball or something on there to keep from doing it again. But my head is pretty solid :cheesy:
Post by: billday on January 07, 2020, 06:53:01 PM
Post by: FlatSix on January 08, 2020, 09:30:32 AM
Is the handlebar end OK?
HA! billday your post did have me concerned. So I went out and cleaned all the blood off of it and all appears good! Whew!
Post by: FlatSix on January 16, 2020, 02:47:35 PM
Also, looking for a good used set of side/battery covers. Most of what I find have broken tabs or too pricey. I can buy new, which I might if need be.
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2020, 03:23:08 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 16, 2020, 04:06:39 PM
Post by: volador on January 17, 2020, 12:06:34 AM
Looks like a choke plug or high altitude or something and I have looked thru what I have but not sure what to do with it...hey, now!That is high altitude plug
Also, looking for a good used set of side/battery covers. Most of what I find have broken tabs or too pricey. I can buy new, which I might if need be.
Sent a PM
Post by: FlatSix on January 21, 2020, 05:50:39 PM
Put the exhaust on and looking good. I only took a picture of the pipes pre-muffler. Getting four pipes to line up in the four holes in the exhaust was pretty amusing but it all managed to come together with minimum cursing.
I repainted the muffler heat shield but I don't like the looks of it at all. Back to the drawing board with it I think.
That's all for now.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 21, 2020, 09:01:59 PM
Post by: caveman on January 22, 2020, 05:16:25 AM
Post by: FlatSix on January 23, 2020, 12:59:12 PM
Oh man, those header pipes are going to break your heart.
No doubt. But I really couldn’t put them back on the bike in the condition they were in.
At the risk of sounding like a ass because you seem to know your way around a machine; I think it best to run the exhaust through a couple of heat cycles before torquing down the clamps. I think it helps with vibration caused by tension in the exhaust.
No problem it’s good advice. I usually recheck everything I can after running the bike thru a few. I am conscious of vibration issues so anything I can do to address that is welcome.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 23, 2020, 02:41:37 PM
Have you looked at plating them? Chromed stainless is suddenly very hot in the yacht fitting business, and is claimed to hold up very well in hot saltwater environments where even stainless will rust. The parts I have seen are stunning.
I'm not positive about this, but have heard that hot rod guys plate their pipes a second time after they blue and the second plating doesn't discolor. Being all buffed up now, you have done the expensive part of getting them plated.
Post by: FlatSix on January 23, 2020, 03:03:10 PM
Those header pipes look so-o-o good.
Have you looked at plating them? Chromed stainless is suddenly very hot in the yacht fitting business, and is claimed to hold up very well in hot saltwater environments where even stainless will rust. The parts I have seen are stunning.
I'm not positive about this, but have heard that hot rod guys plate their pipes a second time after they blue and the second plating doesn't discolor. Being all buffed up now, you have done the expensive part of getting them plated.
My powder coating guy does Cerakote and was talking it up last time I was there. I haven’t been able to get back over there and ask him about how that would hold up on an exhaust and what colors are available. I did think about it after my diy job on the exhaust shield. Not sure if he does chrome stainless so I might have to find a place. Good news is I have time :)
Post by: Laitch on January 23, 2020, 03:22:37 PM
My powder coating guy does Cerakote and . . .There's also this (http://www.k100-forum.com/t15543-mmmmmm-ceramic-coating)–relevant at Reply#3.
Post by: FlatSix on February 04, 2020, 02:45:02 PM
There's also this (http://www.k100-forum.com/t15543-mmmmmm-ceramic-coating)–relevant at Reply#3.
Thank you Laitch for that. I haven't had time to do much but work lately so no visit to the powder guy. But I am not sure I like the looks of that exhaust in the link. I may just not coat the exhaust with anything and just let it "turn." I haven't decided.
I was able to put the controls on and rebuild the front master. I plan to try to route the cables soon if I can figure out how they should be routed. Also need to figure out where the small ground wires that attach to the handlebar controls attach (on the other end, not the control end).
Is this small switch above the alarm lock cylinder standard?
Looks like I also will need the wiring for the temp and fuel level gauges.
Dave
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 04, 2020, 02:53:34 PM
Post by: FlatSix on February 04, 2020, 03:20:30 PM
I think I have a harness for the fuel and temperature gauges around here somewhere.
Thank you sir. PM sent.
Post by: FlatSix on February 10, 2020, 11:08:20 AM
More fun with parts from MAXBMW. Great outfit and I have received a few shipments from them. Seems like whenever I place an order I immediately think of something else I need. Two attempts at buying a new choke cable on Ebay were failures. What a mixed bag Ebay has been of late.
I threw some of the fairing parts on this weekend to get a glimpse of what is to come and to see what parts I need for the fairings. I know some of these are in bad shape. The main fairing was broken in shipment. I want to try refinishing the windshield and see what I get. If it doesn't work out, no great loss.
Really wishing my bike was Bermuda Blue at this point.
Post by: Martin on February 10, 2020, 01:07:43 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: FlatSix on February 10, 2020, 03:29:56 PM
I've successfully restored windscreens. I used a 6" loose cotton mop on a bench grinder and very fine buffing compound followed by Plastx. You need a light touch and keep the job moving as too much pressure or too long in the same spot will burn the screen.
Regards Martin.
That is good to hear Martin. I was wondering what product would be best so I need to source some Plastx.
Post by: billday on February 10, 2020, 03:54:04 PM
Really wishing my bike was Bermuda Blue at this point.
At least your paint is in decent shape (judging from your photos, anyway). And that gold is so 1987. I seem to remember a lot of Toyota Avalons that color.
Post by: Martin on February 10, 2020, 09:09:03 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: daveson on February 11, 2020, 05:00:55 AM
You need a lot of patience with heat, a little bit too long in one spot, it overheats and goes white. Even then you can file it out, but again you then need a lot of patience.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 11, 2020, 08:57:14 AM
If you plan to do any paint in the future, it might be a good investment to get a Harbor Freight dual action buffer and some 3" foam pads. Along with some 3M Perfect-It #2 and #3 you can do some really nice things to your paint, windshield and your car's plastic headlights.
Post by: FlatSix on February 11, 2020, 12:02:46 PM
At least your paint is in decent shape (judging from your photos, anyway). And that gold is so 1987. I seem to remember a lot of Toyota Avalons that color.
What's funny is I was really thinking about what it would take to change the whole bike over to blue and yesterday my wife took a look at it for the first time with the fairings on. She said she like the gold/bronze/Avalon color. So there you have it. Gonna stay with the original color...I'm pretty sure.
Before you go out and by the Meguires Plastx try using toothpaste. While at the guild today one of the guys had some scuffed Perspex and El Presidente said he just uses toothpaste and elbow grease to get out the scratches. The buffing sticks that I use first are fine or ultra fine and are white in colour.
Regards Martin.
I have heard that toothpaste is an option. But I don't know. Probably give the Plastx a try first.
I've used Jiff, because it's cheaper than tooth paste, because I'm a cheap bastard, for plastic headlight covers, etc. Probably in the U S it's a different name, tooth paste like consistency for cleaning shower bases etc. That's for acrylic. I've got rid of scratches on polycarb with a soldering torch, about four inches from the screen looking at an angle that reflects, as soon as you see it go glossy, move to the next part. It wood be good to practice on the lower part, which isn't so important.
You need a lot of patience with heat, a little bit too long in one spot, it overheats and goes white. Even then you can file it out, but again you then need a lot of patience.
I'm more of a Skippy man myself :laughing1:
If the previous owner used Windex with ammonia there won't be much you can do for your windshield. Along with the sun that stuff will cause discoloring and breakdown of the plastic below the surface.
If you plan to do any paint in the future, it might be a good investment to get a Harbor Freight dual action buffer and some 3" foam pads. Along with some 3M Perfect-It #2 and #3 you can do some really nice things to your paint, windshield and your car's plastic headlights.
TMG, I suppose I won't know until I try. Good news for me is I did get a DA sander last year for Christmas, so I have that. Plus I have some polishing compounds for cars and some real fine stuff for guitars. Heck, certainly easier to just buy a new windshield but where is the fun in that?
Post by: volador on February 11, 2020, 03:53:17 PM
Question for the experts...is there a ground wire from the left hand controls (to ground) when heated grips are installed? I have one on the right hand control but my wiring came with two ground wires so I was thinking the second one should be for the left hand controls but I don't know where it mounts. Routed the grip wires thru to the hole in the bottom of the handlebars and it was much easier than I anticipated.
The heated grip kit 61312300383 or 61312300382-(with bars ends) only comes with 1 ground wire 61122303023 which is called 'Tubing' on MaxFiche
I see no mention of where ground wire begins and ends connections in 01299797139 Install manual.
Can you describe where you began and ended the ground wire connections?
Sent a PM few days ago
Post by: FlatSix on February 11, 2020, 04:01:32 PM
The heated grip kit 61312300383 or 61312300382-(with bars ends) only comes with 1 ground wire 61122303023 which is called 'Tubing' on MaxFiche
There is no mention of where ground wire begins and ends connections in 01299797139 Install manual.
Can you describe where you began and ended the ground wire connections?
Sent a PM few days ago
Thanks Volador,
I connected the ground wire (tubing) to the small socket head bolt on the right hand control near where the accelerator cable connects. I terminated it under the tank at the main ground point. There is plenty of length to do so with full handlebar movement.
My apologies, I thought I had replied to your PM from a few days ago.
Dave
Post by: volador on February 11, 2020, 04:15:06 PM
I see no mention of where ground wire begins and ends connections in 01299797139 Install manual.Thanks
I see it on step #33 for K100 RT/LT
Post by: FlatSix on February 21, 2020, 11:30:58 AM
My first seat was the factory seat in some sort of grey with rips in it. Not pretty or comfortable to me. So I thought, no problem lets just get a new seat (I should have just done that) but I saw a few used ones listed on the Bay for what was reasonable and I figured might as well give one a try. So I bought one that looked pretty good except for a small tear which I though I could repair, then I would have a serviceable seat for little investment. Well that seat "looked" decent but when I got it was mostly junk. The brackets that bolt the seat down were rusted so bad that when I removed the first bolt the bracket just snapped off. All the bolts were worthless. Great, not easy to replace those without taking the seat apart. Plus the cover itself was so aged that just pushing on the seat cracked the cover in multiple places...no good.
So I bought another one that was similar, but included the backrest portion and all good brackets but was otherwise a mess. I was able to use parts from both to take to the upholstery shop and get this one made. I am really happy how it turned out...and very comfortable.
It's just resting on the bike, not attached at this point.
FYI, you might notice in the background I have the Triumph apart to get it repainted. Too many projects at once! It's a sickness.
Dave
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 21, 2020, 11:40:21 AM
Post by: FlatSix on March 24, 2020, 11:09:29 AM
Lovely seat sir!
Thank you sir.
Post by: FlatSix on March 24, 2020, 11:32:19 AM
Been a few weeks. Mostly failure on my part but with a little positive news thrown in.
Failure in that I attempted to repaint the Triumph while working on the BMW. Knowing that once I got the T painted, I would let it cure a bit and work on repairing and repainting the front fairing of the BMW which was damaged in shipping, I got to work. Stripped the T tank and found under many decades of paint layers a tank which needed fixing first. Badly dented but not leaking. So I fixed the dents and sprayed primer and blocked then sprayed a beautiful dark cherry pearl base coat and lovely 2K clear. All looked good but I actually wet sanded thru the clear in the tiniest spot and tried to spot fix it. No good. Have to redo the tank. So I sanded it down and laid down color and clear again with my sprayer. This time it looked worse for some reason. Flaws in the clear. The whole time my BMW front fairing was just sitting there. Sadly, I did have to admit defeat. I took the whole bunch to my favorite auto painter (he is great, just thought I could DIY). Told him my woes and he says he will take care of it all. BMW fairing first. He asked me if I wanted the T tank and fender painted the same color (dark cherry pearl) and I told him surprise me, I don't care anymore what color it is.
So in the midst of this I decide to redo the lexan windshield. I really like this windshield but it needs work. I tried to buff it with various products and Plastix and it did look better but not even close to what I want. I think next will be just sanding it down like redoing a car headlight with increasingly fine sandpaper then hitting it with some 2K and see what I get.
I did get the seat properly mounted and located a seat lock keyed to my ignition...(thanks duck). Also got my sensor installed and run for the temp gauge and all the wiring for additional instruments in the dash. Edit: I did run the wiring properly and that's why you see no bolts in the cover to my coolant/oil pump. And filled with coolant...ready to fire her up soon...very very soon.
Still missing a right hand mirror cover in Bahama Bronzit (sp) and need a part number for the rubber pad which sticks on the back of the tank next to the seat. Did get some other things done but can't recall them all.
Thanks y'all.
Post by: billday on March 24, 2020, 11:47:20 AM
How about a picture of your Triumph?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 24, 2020, 11:54:48 AM
First, it has a 2K polyurethane clear on it to prevent scratching. You have to take it all off to buff, and removing that crap is a b!tch. Try 3M Perfect It #1 on a buffer. Once you get it off, 3M Perfect It #2 & #3 with a DA polisher will do a decent job.
It may be possible that the shield has been out in the sun a lot and somebody cleaned it with ammonia based cleaner and it will have crazing that goes well below the surface and can't be buffed out. That crazing had a yellow tint on my K75S shield. In that case, you might want to consider painting it with a transparent tint and clear. The tint will hide the microcrazing, and isn't that big a deal since you are probably looking over it.
Post by: FlatSix on March 24, 2020, 12:18:26 PM
Great to hear from you.
How about a picture of your Triumph?
Hope this works. If so, this was a few months ago with the messed up paint job:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tekfqvkR9ZU
Post by: FlatSix on March 24, 2020, 12:24:49 PM
Windshield: been down that road...twice.
First, it has a 2K polyurethane clear on it to prevent scratching. You have to take it all off to buff, and removing that crap is a b!tch. Try 3M Perfect It #1 on a buffer. Once you get it off, 3M Perfect It #2 & #3 with a DA polisher will do a decent job.
It may be possible that the shield has been out in the sun a lot and somebody cleaned it with ammonia based cleaner and it will have crazing that goes well below the surface and can't be buffed out. That crazing had a yellow tint on my K75S shield. In that case, you might want to consider painting it with a transparent tint and clear. The tint will hide the microcrazing, and isn't that big a deal since you are probably looking over it.
Thanks Gryphon, now that I think about it sure does seem like it already has a 2K clear coat on it and no amount of DA buffing was really making any progress. I will go with your approach and see. I don't really want to buy a new one.
Post by: billday on March 24, 2020, 12:28:19 PM
Hope this works.
Sweet! That's a beautiful sound.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 24, 2020, 01:27:41 PM
Wore comes to worse, you might have to go with wet 2000 to strip that clear. You gotta remember that it's there specifically to prevent scratches.
Post by: FlatSix on April 20, 2020, 02:03:39 PM
Surviving the pandemic and doing some work on the projects. Spent some time refinishing the windshield, going after it more aggressively with sandpaper and then polishing it. Turned out acceptable. Not sure what I was hoping for because perfect was never in the cards, but I will put it on the bike and most likely be happy with it.
Tried to fire up the bike for the first time last weekend. No joy... She lit up and lights, turn signals, horn, etc. all worked fine. Sounded like the starter was turning but she didn't sound like she wanted to fire. I'm sure there is something I am missing.
That's all for now.
Dave
Post by: Martin on April 20, 2020, 04:17:03 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: FlatSix on April 23, 2020, 09:16:57 AM
Meguiars Plastx and a new cotton mop on a buff does a good job on finishing screens.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin. After looking at it again I'm not unhappy with it. I will probably spray it with some 2K clear (or tinted) and be done with it.
What I am hoping to get some expert advise on is the non-starting issue. I took a short video and I will attach it below. The starter spins but the engine isn't turning. I am pretty concerned whatever the issue is will involve major work and darn if I don't really need more disappointment right now. Anyway if you gents have any advice it would be greatly appreciated.
https://youtu.be/oI4R9hN-knU
Thanks,
Dave
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 23, 2020, 10:45:29 AM
Lots of different suggestions for ways to get it working. First thing to try is a "backspin".
Post by: Past-my-Prime on April 23, 2020, 11:42:15 AM
Post by: FlatSix on April 23, 2020, 01:37:49 PM
I'm gonna suggest that you do a search on "sprag problems". Yours doesn't sound like it's engaging to spin the engine.
Lots of different suggestions for ways to get it working. First thing to try is a "backspin".
Thanks TMG been "Googling" and searching. Learn something new every day!
Have you disassembled and reassembled the starter? If so, you have at least an even chance it was put together backwards and now is spinning backwards. As I have read on various threads here that others have experienced.
Damn! I did rebuild the starter. Actually I hope I was bonehead enough to do that and I can fix it.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 23, 2020, 03:23:01 PM
Post by: Martin on April 23, 2020, 05:04:52 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: FlatSix on April 24, 2020, 03:53:10 PM
FS my non OEM acrylic screen is over twenty years old and is in really excellent condition. When it started looking a little bit tatty 5-6 years ago I just carefully buffed it with PlastX using a new cotton mop on my 6" bench grinder. Since then a just clean it occasionally with a glass window cleaner friendly to plastic Earth Choice. I then treat it with a product called Dy-mark PlasGuard anti static plastic and Perspex conditioner which is a cleaner, protectant and polish for clear and coloured Perspex. It is also good for visors as it is anti fogging which is not a problem encountered in QLD. The PlastGuard was recommended and sold to me by a guy who used to work a lot with Perspex. I only use it on my windscreen and visors, Perspex needs to be cleaned and treated with products that are friendly to Perspex, never use cleaners containing silicone.
Regards Martin.
Thanks Martin. The one I have was too far gone for PlastX to work. I used it and it made an improvement but I needed to get slightly more midieval on it and use the sander. I think for now it's going to be OK until I happen upon a new or used excellent condition one to replace it.
For my non-starting situation I am going to pull the starter and go from there. See if I buggered it up when I rebuilt it. Frankly I hope so
Dave
Post by: FlatSix on May 04, 2020, 10:40:54 AM
I must give credit and thank Past-my-prime for pointing out the possibility of rebuilding the starter to spin backwards. It appears that I did just that. It was an easier fix than dealing with the sprag clutch issue (which I got to learn a lot about in the past week).
https://youtu.be/Q_tB996aDrA
Dave
Post by: volador on May 04, 2020, 11:32:06 AM
Post by: FlatSix on June 26, 2020, 10:27:36 AM
I also broke down and simply ordered a newly made windscreen. Crossing my fingers because it's been a month and still showing "in production" we will see.
Does anyone know the part number of the roundel that goes on the front fairing of the LT? The replacement one I ordered wasn't right and I ruined it trying to install it. The curve was too much I think. So I am sure it was the wrong part.
Stay safe folks.
Post by: FlatSix on July 13, 2020, 04:31:07 PM
Dave
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2020, 08:15:39 AM
I did get my new windscreen delivered and I am very pleased with the outcome.It looks like it throws the moto off-balance.
Post by: Martin on July 15, 2020, 04:29:44 PM
Regards Martin
Post by: FlatSix on July 15, 2020, 05:26:16 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 15, 2020, 05:59:11 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 03, 2020, 09:43:09 AM
Moved the bike(s) around this weekend and put air in the tires as the K was low. Been sitting on the center stand for months. Ready for the inaugural ride and off to the DMV to get tags and boom, not start. Darn it the bike started two weeks ago when my brother in law came over to borrow a helmet (well, I just donated one to him) for his "M" license class and test. Got a new Schuberth helmet with integrated intercom that I need to start using anyway.
But I must have done something because now I get no sounds when I try to turn over the bike. Lights on the dash come on but no headlight and no sound from the starter and I don't think any sound from the fuel pump either. No idea what I have done but it is vastly disappointing.
But heck she looks good. I think I need to lose the backrest. And get the tank painted.
Dave
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 03, 2020, 11:47:29 AM
http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/
Bike looks really nice!
Post by: FlatSix on August 03, 2020, 11:56:41 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 03, 2020, 12:12:50 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 03, 2020, 12:18:59 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 03, 2020, 12:26:06 PM
Even if it isn't the problem, it's a job that needs to be done for the reliability of the bike.
Post by: FlatSix on August 17, 2020, 12:13:07 PM
I did figure something out on my own that was slightly frustrating. I was idling high, like 1500, and decided to adjust hot idle so I ran her around to warm up and tried to adjust hot idle and it wasn't going any lower. In fact it seemed to want to stay even higher unless I pressed down on the idle adjustment screw. I though perhaps it was the TPS hanging it up so I tried adjusting and I was hearing the click when coming off idle before and no adjustment amount would allow the idle to reset back without me pushing down on the idle screw. So I reset the TPS and after much staring and poking around I realized I was getting some interference from an intake clamp screw with the throttle cable cam. It's not easy to get to some of those screws but I did manage to adjust it so that there isn't any more interference. Works now, but I still am idling around 1000 and I would like to get it down to 900. This is all part of the shake down for me but happy to be riding her around!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on August 17, 2020, 01:39:42 PM
Have you done a throttle body balance? If you haven't, it might be a good idea.
I would set the idle air screw on cylinder #4, the one with the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, to 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly bottomed. Then balance the other cylinders to have the same vacuum as #4. That should get you close to the factory setting and the proper idle speed.
Post by: FlatSix on August 17, 2020, 05:24:04 PM
Post by: FlatSix on August 27, 2020, 11:14:31 AM
Post by: Laitch on August 27, 2020, 11:18:37 AM
I am the one who rebuilt a starter to turn backward. Thanks in advance TMG.It's ok to hang the Carbtune upside down to lessen fluctuation of the bars. It's reading will be accurate in either position.
Post by: FlatSix on August 27, 2020, 02:41:36 PM
It's ok to hang the Carbtune upside down to lessen fluctuation of the bars. It's reading will be accurate in either position.
Then there is hope afterall.
Post by: Falco144 on October 05, 2020, 09:07:17 PM
I am about to start a similar one on a '87 K100LT in the same color like yours. This is a great!
Post by: FlatSix on October 06, 2020, 11:11:24 AM
Let me know if I can be of any assistance. It is a rewarding endeavor.
Post by: FlatSix on October 12, 2020, 03:28:12 PM
Note: My picture appears upside down. I promise the bike is right-side up.
Post by: Laitch on October 12, 2020, 05:23:19 PM
Jiminy Christmas! What have I done wrong?If it's engine oil, your O-ring installation failed. Maybe the compression ring was installed with the wrong side facing the O-ring. Maybe it wasn't torqued. If it's transmission fluid, there's a seal leaking. Take a whiff.
Post by: FlatSix on October 12, 2020, 07:12:18 PM
Post by: Laitch on October 12, 2020, 07:22:46 PM
I don't suppose this doesn't just happen from sitting?Take it for a ride and see if it stops leaking.
Post by: FlatSix on October 12, 2020, 08:28:58 PM
Take it for a ride and see if it stops leaking.
Worth a shot.
Post by: Laitch on October 12, 2020, 11:29:15 PM
Post by: FlatSix on October 27, 2020, 11:36:41 AM
I'm serious, too. Make it as long a ride as possible—a veritable shake-down cruise.
Laitch I hit it pretty hard for a long drive over a week ago and no seepage since then. Also the old Triumph chopper found a new home with a couple young female tatoo artists. It's been a good few weeks. I hope long term to not see any more oil droplets but I think for now I will not be doing any exploratory surgery and just keep riding. It is getting to be nice riding weather around here :) Thanks for all the help.
Post by: FlatSix on January 05, 2021, 03:36:43 PM
I feel like I need to wrap up this thread and thought I would do so on a good note. The bike is running exceptional and been doing quite a bit of riding lately, including 2 up. Nothing leaking thank goodness. I did install a Ram mount for the phone so I can bluetooth with the Schuberth helmet electronics and it's pretty stable. Also testing out a TMPS from Amerzon and its more annoying than I thought it would be. Seems I lose a little air in the front tire and the monitor beeps like crazy. I suppose it's better to know, but need to address that. Only lingering issue I have is the fuel gauge isn't working. I have another if that is the issue or perhaps I will need to get into the sender. But that really isn't a big deal. Never had one on my Triumph, nor did the one on my Triumph car from 1978 I had back in college work either.
I want to say thanks to all those on here who helped, gave advice or tolerated my mistakes. But in the end she is back to life and on the road and I couldn't be happier about it.
Cheers!
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 05, 2021, 05:34:12 PM
Don't be a stranger, keep us posted on your adventures.
Post by: daveson on January 05, 2021, 06:46:19 PM
I always have respect when I see an old vehicle where it can be seen that a lot of effort has been made to restore it.
Post by: gkanai on October 04, 2021, 08:31:18 AM
So what I did was I put the stainless pin thru the bracket and footpeg but didn't install the small plastic bushing or washer or cotter pin yet. I just put the spring loosely on the pivot pin and was able to get the spring lined up with the hole in the footpeg with the other side resting against the bracket. I was then able to rather easily work the plastic bushing in place under the spring and install the washer and cotter pin. All done. I never did find instructions anywhere on the web on how to do it but my guess is that was how it was intended.
Hope that makes sense for anyone dealing with the same problem.
Many months later, I just wanted to thank you for posting this as I was struggling with the same problem and your solution explained what I needed to do. Thank you!
Post by: frankenduck on October 04, 2021, 11:03:30 AM
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/installffp/installffp.htm
Post by: FlatSix on October 05, 2021, 10:21:34 AM
Update: I recently had the tank off the bike for two reasons. 1. I wanted to get a small dent fixed and the paint done correctly and 2. I wasn't getting anything to register on the fuel gauge. I drained the tank and got it off to the painter who did a pretty good job. Paint match isn't perfect but looks good and the price was right. :)
Afterward I took out the sending unit with intentions to just give it a good Deoxit cleaning and see what I could get it to register with my multimeter. But when I removed the sender it was toast. Totally corroded and no way of making it work again so I broke down and ordered a new sending unit and rebuild kit for my gas cap. It's all cleaned out and back together now. Crossing my fingers it works as I have been out of town since I put the tank back on the bike and haven't even had the chance to gas her up.
Later folks.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 05, 2021, 12:29:00 PM
Post by: FlatSix on October 05, 2021, 04:39:28 PM
Nice to hear from you again. Hope you're enjoying your bike.
Thanks TMG, am most definitely enjoying the bike. My wife really likes going for rides on it as well. The bike seems rather modern considering its age. Nice and smooth. Still buttoning up a few lingering issues like the new (when I got it) front tire likes to lose air. Its odd because it doesn't go flat, just down to about 25psi. And the fuel gauge issue I just worked on. Also the transmission mostly shifts great but about a month ago I had to fight to get into first at a stop sign. Planning on putting in fresh gear lube of a different brand and see if that helps but no big deal really. Also want to add some additional lights up front when I get around to it. Always something I suppose.
Later
Post by: FlatSix on October 26, 2021, 10:34:00 AM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on October 26, 2021, 11:59:08 AM
I have found that shifting is very easy if you just sort of squeeze the clutch a little when shifting. If I pull it all the way in, it's almost impossible to get a clean, smooth shift, especially on down shifts. I suspect that completely disengaging the clutch stops the transmission input shaft from spinning fast enough for the gears to engage.
Have been adding about a teaspoon of molybdenum disulfide powder to the gear oil before I put it in the transmission. It seems to lubricate all the sliding thingies in there so they move around a little easier.
Post by: frankenduck on October 26, 2021, 12:05:43 PM
I do plan on changing over the tranny fluid and see if that helps any.
I'd use synthetic 75/140. (I use Mobil 1 but I think any name brand would be fine.)
Add half a tube of this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384392343899
The moly can take a few hundred miles to "bond" to the metal but should smooth out shifting.
Post by: FlatSix on October 26, 2021, 12:54:23 PM
TMG, I think I know what you mean about the shifts. I tend to only pull just enough to shift when my brain is on "auto-pilot" but when I am focused I probably pull too far. I did feel the transmission was pretty snick-snick at first and lately more clunk. Hope the fluid change helps.
Looking forward to some cool weather riding.
Post by: FlatSix on November 09, 2021, 05:41:20 PM
Harley dealer wants me to trade it in and get a new Pan America or whatever it's called. But I like this bike and I don't like the looks of the Harley. (Went with a friend to pick up his brand new Road King). Now the Road King was a beautiful chrome beasty but not my thing so I told the sales folks. They also tried to push me towards a Street Glide that had a sparkly green / sparkly purple paint job depending on which angle you were looking at it from. I am a sucker for sparkly green, but nope not for me either. Plus it kinda annoys me that Harley won't put price tags on the bikes.
Thinking of modifying some Pelican cases as smaller side cases. Saw someone on here do a set but thinking about different mounting options.
That's all folks...beautiful weather here for riding. Took the bride for a Saturday picnic in the park on the bike, her idea. Wohoo!
Post by: frankenduck on November 09, 2021, 07:40:56 PM
(https://i.imgur.com/ESWHF9T.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on November 09, 2021, 08:00:50 PM
I have looked at pelican cases, and while nice, they're eye-watering expensive. I have seen alternatives for a better price at Harbor Freight. It may bear looking into.
Post by: frankenduck on November 09, 2021, 08:42:15 PM
City cases are nice, but almost as rare as unicorn farts. They seem to have a strong drive for freedom(I've lost two of them now) which is probably a leading reason for their scarcity. The latches don't hold them securely to the frame, even when they're locked. Mine are secured with straps now, and so far none have escaped.
I have looked at pelican cases, and while nice, they're eye-watering expensive. I have seen alternatives for a better price at Harbor Freight. It may bear looking into.
I use city cases all of the time and have never had an issue with them escaping. I must admit that I did lose one - kind of my fault though - it had a really loosy goosy Type 1 flat lock and I hit 100 yards of pavement from hell doing about 60ish so it shook right off.
They're great for splitting in California. You only need to make sure that the mirrors and handlebars will make it.
Post by: caveman on November 10, 2021, 05:19:22 AM
Post by: FlatSix on November 10, 2021, 11:43:09 AM
Post by: frankenduck on November 10, 2021, 12:48:17 PM
I really like the looks of the city cases. There is one left side case for sale on the bay for $500 plus shipping and tax. The only set sold was $460 plus shipping and tax. I bought 2 Pelican 1450 brand new cases for $150 for both plus tax and shipping. Now I just need to fabricate some mounts.
You need to keep a close eye on Ebay and pounce when you find them. I already have enough of them (6 sets) so when I saw a pair on Ebay for $150 earlier this year I sent the link to a friend who bought them. I found a pair the year before for $140 shipped from the UK.
Post by: caveman on November 10, 2021, 05:59:21 PM