MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: evanwellsk75 on June 06, 2019, 02:00:12 AM
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Hey so i just bought a 86 k75, test drove fine and the title was clean. Rode it about 25 miles home, and around 10 miles in the bike started to lose power (felt like a piston isn't firing) then started to backfire, and the farther i rode it the worse it got. Would stall out at stop lights, and was an absolute pain to get off the line, when it didnt stall the rpms would sit super low then kick into it and jolt me like a bronco. It seems like everyone is saying this is a fuel line problem but the lines look brand new, injectors dirty maybe? But i can figure out why it test rode so well, or why it got worse as i rode. Anyone experience anything like this?
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possibly fuel filter.especially if it hadn't be run for a while before you bought it.
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What do the spark plugs look like?
A bad water temperature sensor or dirty connections can make the engine run very rich. This will make it start and run well when cold, but get worse as the engine warms up.
How does it run when you start it in the morning after sitting all night.? Unless the plugs are badly fouled, if it's the temperature sensor I would expect it to start and run nice, getting progressively worse after a couple minutes.
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Lol this would be my second flying brick. With that said can i swap fuel system parts from my 94 75?
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IMHO, blindly swapping parts is the path to having more non-running bikes. Especially when you have poor mechanical skills.
Much better, not to mention productive, is to begin a program of refurbishing parts that impact the proper running of the engine.
Having purchased a Brick with running issues, I would strongly advise a teardown and close inspection of the external engine components, especially the rubber bits, the stuff lurking in the fuel tank, testing and cleaning of all engine related electrical thingies, followed by a complete tune up. This will reward you with a properly running machine in the shortest amount of time, and make you intimately familiar with your engine.
I can't avoid repeating that these bikes are like women, and will reward you abundantly for the time you spend fussing over them.
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Fantastic thank you, im busy right now but im gonna pull the spark plugs when i get home later. If i figure out exactly whats off il post the steps i took, thanks.
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Has the moto sat for some time? Old fuel? What does the inside of the fuel tank look like?
Rubber fuel pump damper will disintegrate over time sitting in fuel making a bloody mess.
A missing pump strainer will allow the tank debris to be sucked into the fuel pump. No buono!
(http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l572/adriannarnold/92%20BMW%20K75S/5d14f2a0.jpg)
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update: all plugs are black, plug 2 is absolutely coated with oil and plug 3 had a little oil on it also this dude was running autolite plugs..... worrying sign for any work he might have done.
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spark plugs Bosch X5DC or NGK D7EA with spark plug 5KΩ wires
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What does the inside of the fuel tank look like?
The tank looks good, im gonna try with new plugs and rule out any electronic malfunction before messing with the fuel system. Any idea why the plugs would be covered with oil? other then the piston not firing? didnt know they made bmw 2strokes
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Moto was sitting on the side-stand too long
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This stain looks like evaporated fuel, these problems could be symptomatic of a gas leak right?
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Something is making your engine run very rich. Try a set of new, clean plugs to see what happens. I suspect you'll have the same issues as with the Autolite plugs.
I am going to reiterate my earlier advice to thoroughly go through all the engine operating stuff on the bike before you attempt to do any serious riding. It appears the bike has some issues that need to be addressed. It will better in the long run to address them now, especially since the previous owner appears to have had some novel maintenance procedures.
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Right tried new plugs (correct bosch ones too) and same problem as before, you seem to know why? You think its a faulty sensor or dirty points then? Im not planning on serious riding for at least two months, but dont have access to a shop for 20 days, so I'm just trying to get the engine running so i have something to ride before a tear down/ restoration.
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Right now you need to go through the engine control system point by point. First off, oily plugs possibly indicate stuck rings. A compression test would be a good start.
The next thing would be the injectors possibly sticking open and over fueling. Then you need to check the engine temperature sender. Are you sure the fuel pressure regulator is working properly?
Do you know if the previous owner made any "adjustments" to things like the MAF and the Hall Effect Sensors. Being a new owner, you really have no idea of the maintenance history of the bike. You need to establish a starting point of the engine controls.
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To add to all the previous good advice on checking all the items that may be deteriorated from sitting - is it oil or fuel on your plugs?
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Okay cheers. No i think the guy knows he sold me bunk bike and is ghosting so no luck on engine history. Its oil for sure, maybe an oil and gas mixture but its black and thick, also left deposits just on a test run with the new plugs- also getting spark but spark is orange.
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Im not planning on serious riding for at least two months, but dont have access to a shop for 20 days, so I'm just trying to get the engine running so i have something to ride before a tear down/ restoration.
There are no motorcycle gods that allow useful riding of a stalling moto without repairing it.
You're all over the map with this thing and diagnosing without skill. Follow Gryph's advice. Proceed system by system. We just had a member whose moto was running intermittently rough and he seemed to relieve those symptoms by tightening the fuel injection control unit's plug to its connection. So review that connection.
Pull the spark plug wires that connect to the coils—one at a time. Check their ends and the coil terminals for corrosion. Check the spark plugs' top connections. Does each have a rounded terminal nut, or a bare screw? Does the coil wire fit tightly to that connection or loosely?
Let us know what you see.
This stain looks like evaporated fuel, these problems could be symptomatic of a gas leak right?
Another member had a stain in that area, too. It turned out to be dog piss, or at least he said it tasted like dog piss.
No i think the guy knows he sold me bunk bike and is ghosting so no luck on engine history. Its oil for sure, maybe an oil and gas mixture but its black and thick, also left deposits just on a test run with the new plugs- also getting spark but spark is orange.
He didn't sell you a "bunk bike." You bought a neglected K75 that is typically acting like a neglected K75. You're likely to get it running if you can follow directions.
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Read my mega thread, if you can read for that long, it will be helpful to you, eventually...(the political pics and references are nothing to do with me, bored mods, I think...). My bikes running great now, by the way.
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Hey so i was finally able to get it into the shop and this is what i've done:
Replaced the fuel pump with a used but working one
Cleaned the tank
Brand new fuel filter
Replaced the fuel hoses inside and outside the tank
Replaced the oil/oil filter
Had the injectors cleaned
Cleaned the air filter
Blew out all electrical points with compressed air
Replaced both the icu and ecu with used but working ones
Replaced the spark plugs (twice)
Replaced the throttle butterfly switch
What i've found:
Fuel delivery is working fine though when we plugged in the new icu the bike started great but the idle continued to rise and fall without the throttle, though after turning it off and turning it back on we were back to no idle and ignition failure after 15 seconds . We swapped the icu back to the original and the bike ran fantastically, it sounded like it should and revved up as far as we wanted it. We turned it off, back on and back to a dolphin like sound and no idle with ignition failure (again) after about 15 seconds or as long as we held the starter.
Im going to swap the injection relay tomorrow but wanted to consult you guys first, again if anyone has ever experienced this sort of thing?
Read my mega thread, if you can read for that long, it will be helpful to you, eventually...(the political pics and references are nothing to do with me, bored mods, I think...). My bikes running great now, by the way.
Soggz i would love to is there a link or something of the sort i could follow, im at a bit of a loss on this guy and could use all the help i could get though i cant seem to find this thread your talking about. Im pretty new to this site.
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Based on your latest descriptions, consider dismantling and cleaning your moto's ignition switch (http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/). A faulty or filthy ignition switch will cause electrical current to fluctuate or fail intermittently.
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As above, clean ignition switch, compression and leak-down, and do more than blow air on the 4-prong connectors. Deoxit and Dielectric grease are your buddies.
Worse case scenario is that it's something so fundamentally simple, you'll kick yourself for missing it.
Good luck, continue to caress and wax her, and she'll eventually come around to purr for you.
* I also had crappy Autolites when I got my K75, must've been a period thing.
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Hey thanks guys, never would have thought of an ignition switch for this sort of problem but makes sense.
Yeah it does feel like its right on the verge of wanting to start and run, I certainly hope its something easily missed. That'd be one gooooooood celebratory beer.
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Update: Not the ignition switch, ordering a new fuel pump relay and replacing the fuel pressure regulator.
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I think the mods renamed it to something like soggz maga thread or something, for a laugh. Ask Laitch or the mighty griffin. It’s on here somewhere. I can’t find it either.
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. . .
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We turned it off, back on and back to a dolphin like sound . . .
That "dolphin sound" is most likely the fuel pump which will be heard running for a second or two after a starting attempt. It's helpful to post a YouTube video for sound identification.
TMG cautioned against throwing parts at this moto but that seems to be your strategy. Rather than doing multiple replacements at one time, I suggest starting the engine after each replacement. That might reveal the exact cause and will be helpful to others who might have a similar problem but not the funds for shotgun-style parts replacement. Please continue to update us when the ignition control unit and fuel pressure regulator have been replaced.
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greetings...
im thinking you take it to pete at...
bavarian motocycles west of colorado
2312 s delaware st denver co 80223
720 570 2044
he will have it figgered out just rolling it in... however we all know its the fore pin...
j o
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The fuel pressure regulator, icu, ecu, and fuel pump relay have all been replaced with zero changes to the problem at hand. The sound im referring to isnt the fuel pump its the starter motor.
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Laitch, I have been starting the moto after each replacement or cleaning. Its run great twice, once after swapping an icu (no start on the replacement) and then plugging in the old one. The second after literally the exact same back and forth on a fuel pump relay. SO we have narrowed down the problem to be an electrical misstep somewhere in- and heres where im lost- we suspect fuel supply system.
Johnny, id love to take it to a shop but frankly im out a decent bit of cash on both the salvage title k75 im using as a parts bike and this '85 lemon that im trying to fix up. Would rather sell the both to the highest bidder and use the cash to pick up a ticket and a little shitter in laos or vietnam.
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Crankcase breather hose. When replacing the fuel regulator i noticed it was cracked, i removed it to do a momentary repair with liquid gasket and made the last post before putting it back on. Ordered a new one but the DIY job seems to work okay, giving me the confidence to say with general certainty that that was the issue. Thanks for letting me throw my thoughts against ya here, il keep this thread posted if it continues to run fine or if i run into another problem
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Crankcase breather hose. il keep this thread posted if it continues to run fine or if i run into another problem
:clap:
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Crankcase breather hose. When replacing the fuel regulator i noticed it was cracked, i removed it to do a momentary repair with liquid gasket and made the last post before putting it back on. Ordered a new one but the DIY job seems to work okay, giving me the confidence to say with general certainty that that was the issue. Thanks for letting me throw my thoughts against ya here, il keep this thread posted if it continues to run fine or if i run into another problem
yup, that was one of the first rubber bits I had to replace to make it run even. I did do a ‘repair’ with heat shrink wrap, which worked until I could afford to throw a few quid at the bike. The bike was cheap, it the parts are sooooo expensive for what they are...
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Hey so i just bought a 86 k75, test drove fine and the title was clean. Rode it about 25 miles home, and around 10 miles in the bike started to lose power (felt like a piston isn't firing) then started to backfire, and the farther i rode it the worse it got. Would stall out at stop lights, and was an absolute pain to get off the line, when it didnt stall the rpms would sit super low then kick into it and jolt me like a bronco. It seems like everyone is saying this is a fuel line problem but the lines look brand new, injectors dirty maybe? But i can figure out why it test rode so well, or why it got worse as i rode. Anyone experience anything like this?
I had this exact symptom when I clanged the fuel sender (early pre float type). I changed it back and the problem was cured. You can read about it in my thread from post 240 onwards: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10875.225.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10875.225.html) I'd check that the collars for the 4 pin under the tank are tight and clean ensuring a good connection.
Had your seller just power washed the bike? I also had an almost identical issue the last few days after going to pick the moto up from a vehicle detailer, it wouldnt run, then would but not hold idle, would backfire. She dried out over the weekend, then started on the monday, rode her home for her to not restart. I traced it back to a dirty and slightly damp #4 injector plug as can be seen from this video, The bike has seen 3500 miles of roads in all conditions in the last year and is due a connector "service":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMrJROmgHlg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMrJROmgHlg)
I also found, at least on my first fuel injection wiring harness, that the run from the under tank connector down to the FICM had been water logged due to poor wrap, this had caused a wire break which will give you the same symptoms again. In my case every wire was corroded black, I had to replace the whole harness.
It's always electrical for me I've found. Could it be an earth? As a matter of course, it is beneficial to go through every electrical connector and clean and grease the contacts. I went as far as removing heat shrink around earthed connections to ensure they weren't broken. The electrics are old on these girls, regular tlc or heavy front end refreshing will save you less pain in future.
The good luck in your fault finding.
EDIT: You've cured it - well done!
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I had a lot of ignition problems earlier this year getting the bike awakened from the winter hibernation.
It idled slightly rough, but wouldn't make power starting off, and had a consistent miss at speed.
What did the trick was cleaning the low voltage contacts on the coils, both in the connectors and the pins in the coil.
I had unplugged and plugged these multiple times, but attacking them with some contact cleaner is what did the trick.
I got there by pulling the spark plugs and finding that the middle one was slightly black compared to the other two. I cleaned the middle coil first, and the misfires went away, and followed-up by cleaning all three.
YMMV, of course.
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Alright guys so heres the saga of the last week- I take the bike out first day- rides great go to a movie that night and when i come out i notice a little gas under my bike. Weird but i brush it off. Next day i ride it down to a meeting first thing and by the time i get to the cafe the bike is pissing gas everywhere. I narrow it down to a single injector thats spraying from the rail side. I wheel it over to a friends garage pull the injectors to find one of my O rings had broken up (I had my injectors done professionally/ by a friend) before so a little annoyed but ya know what its alright. Run down to bmw dealer to pick up my 45$ o rings run back and find that my pintle cap on that injector is cracked. New one coming in from good old mr injector and im throwing my rail back on a few days later (today.) Now heres where im stumped, replaced the o rings on all three and did a total overhaul of the problem injector, and now im pissing gas out of the header side. I did everything correctly when putting the guys back on, any ideas?
TLDR: pissing gas out of my header side on injector 1, replaced the o rings already.
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I did everything correctly when putting the guys back on, any ideas?
Describe how you installed them. Did you lubricate the o-rings?
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I installed the spacer then using a loose socket installed the pintle cap, then rolled o ring on. Then took a blowdryer to the cap and used a little motor oil on the end of a q-tip to smother the o rings. Then i twisted and applied pressure to the injector until it seated fully into the header (it was seated on the same level then the other two) then used a block of wood and light hammer taps to seat the rail. So I think i did everything right? Only thought is that the heat from the dryer may of damaged the o ring. Is that even possible?
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Is everything clean? Oils be a little bit of dirt sitting on the face of the seat where the O ring sits. Or sometimes, when putting it all back together, the O ring can sort of move up a little bit. Happened to me, and had a tiny fire, as I had a plug cap off when checking the spark on no.1.
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I get my o-rings from Carquest. P/N BWD 274572. Not only are they cheaper(about $10 for 10), but they include a plastic cone that lets you install them without nicks that cause leaks.
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Then took a blowdryer to the cap and used a little motor oil on the end of a q-tip to smother the o rings.
Q-Tips always leave lint hairs. Probably not a biggie, but they shed more than cocker spaniel in summer.
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Huh maybe I just nicked or broke one when installing it, I gave em a good look over but if that's easily done then I guess it's an option. I just got the bike back to the shop today, will update. Thanks yall
Side note is it possible that the washers that connect the fuel rail to the header could be bad and therefor not giving enough tension on plug one to keep it in place? Easy fix and just wondering because mine look original.
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Huh maybe I just nicked or broke one when installing it, I gave em a good look over but if that's easily done then I guess it's an option. I just got the bike back to the shop today, will update. Thanks yall
Side note is it possible that the washers that connect the fuel rail to the header could be bad and therefor not giving enough tension on plug one to keep it in place? Easy fix and just wondering because mine look original.
Old bike now, replace ALL rubber parts.
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Well folks, here i am again with the bucking problem. I set out on my 86 k75 last week to head up to montana for some good old brick-camping and hanging, annnnnd the bike sputtered to a stop on a mountain pass. Heres what happened and what i think, but im still new to my brick so id like to run it past yall. I was going around 70-80 (speedo dont work) and felt a little bump, like a buck but tiny so much so i thought it was something i went over. Then about a 2 minutes later, again, and again with increasing intensity and speed and as they increased i slowly dropped rpms, to the point where i was wide open and had nothing. Pulled over and the bike died, couldnt get it to start back up. So i post up, smoke a cigarette and try her again, and boom shes all good, though my first thought was vacuum leak so i look around the bike and find a single drop of something. stayed by it for a while longer to see if i was leaking and where from but cant find it and dont see any more mystery liquid I limp, keeping the rpms under 3000, the 10 miles down to butte misfiring the whole way and here i am. Now i reckon its either a fuel problem or a vacuum leak but those are both aspects that i refurbished when i got the bike.
New pump
new filter
new fuel lines
refurbished injectors
new rubber bits all around
etc etc
And body got a lead? I read someone had power loss when his exhaust valve went out, but i did a compression test before i left and clocked in on all 3 with 145. Also when i left i had a good amount of oil above the dot, now i look through the view glass and its at the dot. Could be unrelated but i thought it was strange. Taking the bike down to slc tomorrow where i can use a garage for the week.
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etc etc
Please be specific.
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Replaced the fuel pump with a used but working one
Cleaned the tank
Brand new fuel filter
Replaced the fuel hoses inside and outside the tank
Replaced the oil/oil filter
Had the injectors cleaned
Cleaned the air filter
Blew out all electrical points with compressed air
Replaced both the icu and ecu with used but working ones
Replaced the spark plugs (twice)
Replaced the throttle butterfly switch
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whoops didnt mean to post that yet
Also replaced the crankcase breather hose and fuel injector o rings
Did a few more things to it but nothing having to do with the engine itself
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cleaned my air filter too, and checked the rubber there. it looked fine.
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Vacuum port caps on the throttle bodies? Did you check the manifold bushings for leakage? Have you done the Hall sensor test?
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Havent worked on the bike at all, this happened last night. Like i said getting it down to salt lake tomorrow, though those do all sound like good places to start. How do you do a hall sensor test?
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This is the simple way.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9072.msg71864.html#msg71864 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9072.msg71864.html#msg71864)
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update, its backfiring like crazy above 4k rpms
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When you replaced the return fuel hose from the FPR to the tank did you replace it with a OEM one with the preformed bends? If not depending on the quality of the hose used and the temperatures encountered it is possible for the hose to collapse where it goes into the tank. The collapse can be hard to detect even when sliding the tank back to check. As you slide the tank back the kink in the hose can rectify itself. A collapsed hose will cause symptoms similar to what you are encountering.
Regards Martin.
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Nice! Terrorizing the pristine Utah country side with a backfiring Brick. :laughing4-giggles:
You borrow a hair dryer from any motohoe and try that HES test?
You may also have too little throttle cable “play” which may be holding the butterflies slightly off idle, keeping the throttle position switch actuated. Check for a audible “click” at the injector area as you slowly ease off the twistgrip to idle. If the throttle position switch is incorrectly adjusted or the throttle cable too tight, you won’t hear the “click”, and the engine will receive fuel as you decelerate, causing backfiring.
Remove the plug for the throttle position switch.
Go for a ride. Any change?
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When you replaced the return fuel hose from the FPR to the tank did you replace it with a OEM one with the preformed bends?
please exuse my ignorance here, but what does FPR stand for? and no none were oem, just standard fuel injection hoses.
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Havent done the HES test yet, could be throttle position? I had to take the throttle handle off do replace a bad brake piston about 2 weeks ago, so the cable might have gotten jammed or something- would that make sense though?
Also, went for a ride today in utah to grab a circle clamp to throw between my airbox and throttle body (it was straight up gone and they were disconnected ??? thought that might be the source) and the bike was hard to start when i got out of the parts shop. got to the joint im staying at and put the bike in the garage for lunch, came back 1 or 1:30 hours later and the engine was scorching hot to the touch. Ever experienced something like that?
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never mind got the click alright
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Well so just revved the bitch up for about 10, then let it idle and ran a hairdryer over it for another ten. So i guess when it comes to evans bike you can go so far to say HE'S gooooooooooooouuuud
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You take the "T" shaped cover off and heat the HES ?
FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator
The top barb on the FPR has hose connects to the underside fuel tank return port/tubing stub
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. . . went for a ride today in utah to grab a circle clamp to throw between my airbox and throttle body (it was straight up gone and they were disconnected . . . 1 or 1:30 hours later and the engine was scorching hot to the touch.
If the throttle body intake bushings weren't attached to the air box, then un-metered air was being taken into the throttle bodies leaning the mixture in the combustion chambers. That was likely to contribute to chronic backfiring and the poor performance of this derelict from the get-go.
Hot engine? How old is the coolant and what's its level in the reservoir?
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Well so just revved the bitch up for about 10, then let it idle and ran a hairdryer over it for another ten. So i guess when it comes to evans bike you can go so far to say HE'S gooooooooooooouuuud
Ayy, hit'in the good stuff in Utah
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FPR stands for fuel pressure regulator it is fitted between the fuel rail return line and the tank. I've had previous trouble with the line collapsing where it goes back into the tank. The Gates brand line had been substituted by a cheaper type by our local auto supply shop. Due to the inferior quality of the new hose it was collapsing on the bend, the heat in QLD summer and slow traffic were also a contributing factor. The problem was solved by fitting a better grade hose along with a Unicoil on the bend, I also added 13mm by 10mm thick foam insulation.
Regards Martin.
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Oh yup gotcha all sorry for the disconnect, yup replaced the fpr when I refurbished the bike and replaced the line. Could be that the line collasped however, will take a second look at in it the morn.
Also yup took off the hes cover and heated it, the t shaped one.
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Well so Laitch, i dont quite know what you mean by bushings there are two large hoses that connect the two and they have a circle clamp on the outside and a medium sized metal piece on the inside. The circle clamp was missing and the hoses were loose.
As for coolant age no idea but levels have looked good since i left denver
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Well so Laitch, i dont quite know what you mean by bushings there are two large hoses that connect the two and they have a circle clamp on the outside and a medium sized metal piece on the inside. The circle clamp was missing and the hoses were loose.
As for coolant age no idea but levels have looked good since i left denver
Well evan, bushings are the BMW term for what you seem to be calling hoses. Hoses are what I call flexible tubes long enough for a K75 owner to flog himself as punishment for not getting acquainted with a parts fiche like this one (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51739&rnd=07242017) or not knowing the condition of essential fluids in his moto's engine. :-)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-050919102952.png)
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Thanks for the help there laitch! Saying the same thing over and over then being an asshole about it really does improve the all around community! God what would I do without you? Maybe I would have never reconnected my intake hoses like I did yesterday. What if I had called them vents? Or tubes? Literally any other descriptor for an oddly named piece seems to be too hard for you though, so god I am so sorry since I have done such a dishonor to you by asking for advice the wrong way. How ever can I make it up????
get off the thread, your not helpful.
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Thanks for the help there laitch! Saying the same thing over and over then being an asshole about it really does improve the all around community! God what would I do without you? Maybe I would have never reconnected my intake hoses like I did yesterday. What if I had called them vents? Or tubes? Literally any other descriptor for an oddly named piece seems to be too hard for you though, so god I am so sorry since I have done such a dishonor to you by asking for advice the wrong way. How ever can I make it up????
get off the thread, your not helpful.
lol.
Nice.
I had a slight air leak difficulties with my rear one of these,the top inner side of it looked ‘chipped’, maybe forced on. I just cleaned everything with a mild degreased, then spread black silicone sealer around the inside top, then reassembled it all, then left overnight to cure. That was just under a thousands miles ago, with no problems.
Admittedly, it had been off of the road for a number of years, so I had to do other things to it,too.
But these bike seem to be one of many parts, and to me, a new learning curve, on otherwise,quite a simple engine once you get to the extra ‘elektrickery’, it has.
Hope this helps.
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Woooww Dude, chill out. The man is helping you!
Smear some silicone/grease/saliva inside the intake bushings/hoses/stubs/vents/tubes/whatever if/ when you are reassembling
Any change in the moto performance?
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Thanks for the help there laitch!
The pleasure has been all mine, evan! Anytime.
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Okay my apologies to the forum. I have zero patience for public shaming or condescension.
Now I popped my airbox off and maybe found the cause for the mix up, I dont have a bushing in there. I also went into my book and found no mention of a bushing being there. So maybe the bushing thing is a function of later models, since this is a 86. I no longer think this could be the cause of my problem, since the bike was running great before this clusterfuck. Here are some pictures of what Im looking at.
Also would like to point out that the hose that I have been referring to as a hose, the book refers to as a air intake hose.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?action=gallery;su=user;cat=147;u=6448
http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/videos/1_12_01_19_6_45_32.gif (http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/videos/1_12_01_19_6_45_32.gif)
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That elbow is a pathway to the airflow meter. The meter signals air volume to the Jetronic fuel injection control unit which adjusts the fuel mixture accordingly. If air bypasses that meter the engine will run unpredictably and rough. Be certain the electrical connector is attached snugly.
Bushings referred to the rubber connectors attaching the throttle bodies to the plenum, the box above them.
To post your photos into your reply, go to the bottom of each photo's page in your gallery. The URL information of the photo is in a narrow window. Copy all the information then paste it into the reply box wherever you want the photo to appear.
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Solved.
I used the propane test to identify that one of by intake tubes under the butterfly assembly had gone bad, item number 3 in the diagram.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6448-050919172557-24431584.jpeg)
As for the propane testing that I did i found the info on how to do that from a thread called k1100 intake rehab
Heres the link
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.msg1572.html#msg1572
Again the book I have refers to the piece in the intake manifold as a tube not bushing. Though thank you for the help.
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Again the book I have refers to the piece in the intake manifold as a tube not bushing. Though thank you for the help.
As was indicated earlier, bushings is BMW's term. It isn't necessarily a widely used term but it's they one use in the order forms accompanying the diagrams for ordering parts from their dealers. Sometimes it's useful to know the arcane terms BMW uses when mounting a search on the Internet for replacement parts.
I guess we're both repeating ourselves. :-)
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As was indicated earlier, bushings is BMW's term. It isn't necessarily a widely used term but it's they one use in the order forms accompanying the diagrams for ordering parts from their dealesr. Sometimes it's useful to know the arcane terms BMW uses when mounting a search on the Internet for replacement parts.
I guess we're both repeating ourselves. :-)
Compulsive repetitive disorder, this thread needs some therapy. I'd be happy to recommend someone.:laughing4-giggles:
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Compulsive repetitive disorder, this thread needs some therapy. I'd be happy to recommend someone. :laughing4-giggles:
The Sisyphean Society must have quite the database of therapists. Ping me.
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Solved.
I used the propane test to identify that one of by intake tubes under the butterfly assembly had gone bad, item number 3 in the diagram.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/6448-050919172557-24431584.jpeg)
As for the propane testing that I did i found the info on how to do that from a thread called k1100 intake rehab
Heres the link
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,624.msg1572.html#msg1572
Again the book I have refers to the piece in the intake manifold as a tube not bushing. Though thank you for the help.
lol, yeah, like I said, the third one leaks.
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lol, yeah, like I said, the third one leaks.
Brilliant, everyone is repeating themselves
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(http://www.motobrick.com/Smileys/default/laughing4-giggles.gif)
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Okay my apologies to the forum. I have zero patience for public shaming or condescension.
you may need to find a different forum then. I have found this forum essential to a properly running brick and the inmates on this site have been more then helpful, however the price of admission often seems to be a varying amount of humor and attempted humor, a small price to pay for all the great help.
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And not everybody can get the grips with my British sense of humour. Sarcasm is a major part of it, it depends if you can understand it. We call it ‘banter’...
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Thin line on the humor bit, but to each their own. Either way I feel bad about causing the ruckus.
Is there a way to get your throttle plenum off without dropping the engine out? My book says lift but ive got the frame right there.
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never mind, i got it
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It can be tricky, but it squeezes right out. I found it easier to remove the tank, although, at a slightly later date, when I changed the fuel lines, I put slightly longer lines back on, only about a inch or so longer, so that any ‘under tank’ work can be done without having to disconnect it. Just move it back, then lift to the left, and support it with a ‘bungy’ cord. When replacing it, silicone around each inlet rubber, then replace at a slight tilt towards you,then push in and down till upright. There’s a bit of a knack to it.