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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Sopp on May 06, 2019, 05:07:49 PM
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Here’s the story: stolen, recovered, sold at auction, previous owner lost paperwork, I bought for parts, now I want to save it.
Can’t read the entire vin # but it starts out: WB1 057307146????
Appears to be early 90s. Mileage 3956
Fire burned the fuel injection system so that has been removed and new manifold built and Weber carb added.
Problem: it starts, idles a couple seconds, revs up tp 6000 for a couple seconds ( with throttle closed ) and then dies. Chip has been removed from key—-is that part of the problem? Someone suggested that to me but not sure about that idea.
I’ve built hot rods for the last 60 years, but I’m new to BMWs, and cycles in general.
Thank you for any help that anyone can offer.
Sopp
OK, Johnny, rip me a new one.
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Welcome, sounds like you have a truly unique situation.
First, there is no chip in the K bike key. Second, there are very, very few people who have experience with running a brick with a carburetor, so you are going to be spending a lot of time in uncharted territory.
I suspect that excessive fuel pressure is flooding the engine. Are you running the stock fuel pump in the tank with the fuel pressure regulator? I would supply fuel to the carb by gravity from a bottle about a foot above the carb. From there, you will be able to start tuning the carburetor to get the engine to run properly.
Do you have the ECU connected? I am not positive, but I think it has something to do with ignition timing. Not sure if it's needed, but you might as well have it connected in the ignition circuitry.
That's about all I can offer right now. Good luck and keep us advised with how and what you are seeing.
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Thank you for the quick response.
Stock fuel pump has been replaced with one that only makes about 4 to 6 psi. The ecu is still in there. I carefully removed only things directly related to the fuel injection system.
No chip? Hmmmm, something has been removed from the key right where a chip would be. I’ve seen questions in forums about making ignition work without original key that had a chip. Hmmm.
I never build anything that is normal. Couple years ago I built the first and only hot rod completely wrapped in denim, no paint, just real denim material.
Not that it matters to this particular question, but this K75 is now a BMW Trike. I’ve added the independent rear suspension from a BMW 318i to it. Not even close to being done, but is ready to ride if I can get the engine to run properly.
Thanks again for any help.
Sopp
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The good news is there's no need for concern about its being either a motorcycle or a BMW. It's a fuel-injected auto engine mounted horizontally. It's managed more like my '97 Ford F250HD. :2thumbup: It seems like quite an undertaking, but with 60 years of engine experience, you should be able to sort through it, one way or the other. Check in with Motobrick member Roland (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9882.msg83950.html#msg83950). He was intending a similar conversion.
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The keys are late 70's technology. The fact that they fold makes them high tech. I'm thinking what is missing is the fancy little BMW roundel that is imbedded in the key.
Can you post a photo of what you have. It will help us understand what you're grappling with.
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No chip? Hmmmm, something has been removed from the key right where a chip would be. I’ve seen questions in forums about making ignition work without original key that had a chip. Hmmm.
There's no electronic chip in a K75 key and never was. Move on to converting the trike to chain drive.
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Not all your symptoms match, but sometimes if the earth is poor it travels through the accelerator cable, which often results in full acceleration. On bricks the computer denies fuel, and alters timing, to prevent engine damage from over reving.
I think the tenth digit of your vin indicates that it's a 2001 model. I think the month and year are on your engine also.
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Now THAT’S interesting!! I’ll check my grounds and the throttle cable. I guess the ECU could shut the fuel pump off, and also change the timing since it might not be getting the correct info from the “ missing “ fuel injection system.
I will try to take a good picture of the vin and post it. Maybe someone will be able to decipher what the other digits are.
Thanks again,
Sopp
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Feel the cable. Start it again. When it conks out, feel if the cable is warm.
I would consider the lazy man's way out and put fuel injection back on, but I'll be watching your build with interest. :popcorm
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Here are some pics to give you an idea of what I’m doing. Maybe someone with more experience reading VIN numbers on BMWs can decipher this set of numbers.
I’ll have a chance to work on it tomorrow, and will check the throttle cable for temp change when I try to start it.
Thanks again,
Sopp
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Problem: it starts, idles a couple seconds, revs up tp 6000 for a couple seconds ( with throttle closed ) and then dies.
Weber carb added.
Seems like the cause of the problem. :giggles
Seriously, though. I've heard of maybe three people who converted a Brick to carburetors. I never could figure out why. I own BMWs precisely because they are the oldest bikes commonly available with fuel injection.
What you have is not a BMW problem. You have a carburetor problem, and, potentially, an intake problem. Things like this is why I hate carburetors.
Not all your symptoms match, but sometimes if the earth is poor it travels through the accelerator cable, which often results in full acceleration.
How would a bad ground accelerate a carbureted engine? You can't make it do 6000 RPM with just a timing change. And if there is no FI, timing is all that's left to control electronically. You can make it do that if you are dumping too much gas in or you have too much air coming in and the carb adds fuel to go with it.
Either the carb is wonky, or there is an air leak.
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Put the fuel injection system in that Rambler American; don't let it go to waste. :giggles
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I'm new to working on bikes, but I've seen this accelerator/earth problem on cars a few times over the years. If earth is poor it sometimes travels through the accelerator cable. The high current and small cable diameter causes the outer nylon cover to heat up, making the cable sticky. When overcome it moves suddenly and quickly, and might be too sticky to return. Since the fuel injection unit has been removed but not the ignition control unit, I guess this gives whack a wide berth.
It might not be the problem in this case, but this build has raised my eyebrow :popcorm
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The VIN number:
The first digit, W stands for the country, in this case Germany, called West Germany, back in the days.
The second digit B, stands for the manufacturer, in this case BMW.
I recon if you googled it, you would probably find the other stuff.
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While you're out there, take a couple photos of the CARBURETOR AND HOW IT"S PLUMBED to the engine. It might help us figure out what you're dealing with if we can see a bit more than you're working on a trike parked near a light blue automobile.
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Just want to say, your trike looks very cool and I'm looking forward to following this thread.
And yes please show us your carb and manifold.
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OK, I posted 5 different pictures of the bike, but it shows up on my iPad as the same picture 5 times. Are the rest of you seeing 5 different pictures or the same one 5 times????
I checked the throttle cable for any heat change when starting the beast, no heat, not the problem.
I’m attaching 1 picture of the drawing that started this whole concept.
I got it to idle for about 10 seconds today before it revved up to 8000 and then shut down. Next step will be to pull a good carb off of some other vehicle and try that. I think a Holley 2110 off one of my Ford Flatheads will work.
Fuel injection burned up, so putting that back on is not an option, other than buying a new system on line.
I’ll keep you posted on my progress
Sopp
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I only saw the first photo in each post repeated.
I have no idea on how your engine fuel and ignition systems are put together, but quitting at 8,000 rpm sounds a lot like the rev limiter kicking in.
As far as the engine revving to red line, are you absolutely sure the throttle butterly is closed when the engine is running away??? It takes a fair bit of air(and fuel) to get to 8,000 rpm, and that much air isn't going to get past a closed throttle. Take the air filter off and start the engine. When it starts to run away, slap a towel over the the carb's throat to close it off. Do the rpm's drop, or does the engine continue to run away?
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It takes a fair bit of air(and fuel) to get to 8,000 rpm, and that much air isn't going to get past a closed throttle.
Either the carb is wonky, or there is an air leak.
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Fuel injection burned up, so putting that back on is not an option, other than buying a new system on line.
Personally, I would have been looking into going forward to a more modern custom FI system rather than back to carbs.
I am sitting here rather seriously considering converting a 50cc moped to EFI. Already have the electronics and everything.
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Hey Sopp,
I love the Fred Flintstone look of your bike, the Carby that is. :popcorm
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-130519014849.png)
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:popcorm
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The reason I like carbs is the same reason I can’t seem to post more than one picture at a time........I’m OLDER than dirt.
Here is the one I tried to post with the previous post
I’m trying to go retro with the bike. If I don’t go with the fender skirts, it will get 1935 Ford wire wheels.
Throttle plates are closed when it revs up. Can’t find any place that air is getting into the system. I’m really baffled. I’ll try a different carb tomorrow.
Is anyone seeing “all” the pictures I’m posting or just the repeated pictures that I see?
Thank you for your patience.
Sopp
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Is anyone seeing “all” the pictures I’m posting or just the repeated pictures that I see?
You've posted five identical images of the trike and the Rambler, two identical images of the fuel tank and carb on the right side of the moto and one upside down—or maybe right side up—image of something.
Post a photo of the intake manifold on the cylinder head.
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:popcorm
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Be old and love it. It took me about a year before I posted a photo, the first was a stuff up. :popcorm
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I have no idea what I’m doing wrong posting pictures. Here’s a rear view of the bike.
Will take a picture of the manifold tomorrow.
Sopp
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Love the seats too.
The last two photos are the right way up from down under. :popcorm
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Did you reconnect the hose that went from crankcase to plenum chamber? Originally it's a large diameter without a PCV type valve. How did you block the injector holes?
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One more try . You can see the plugged crankcase hose in the right side of the picture ( unless it is up side down ). So that is not the problem.
Two more pictures.
I figured out how to post more than one picture. Hip hip hurray!!!".............maybe.........
Sopp
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1. Is that duct tape covering the injector ports? That would leak like a bastard. Or are those injectors under there?
2. Why do you have this long horizontal runner? Why not mount the carb closer to the intake boots?
3. How sure are you the manifold doesn't leak air?
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+1
I know this doesn't make sense but I spose the Carby seems in the way if mounted on the mounting side.
Plus how sure are you the butterfly remains closed.
Could that set up be like a huge venturi? Does the throttle grip (or whatever you got) remain stationary when it shoots from idle to 8000rpm?
:popcorm
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+1
I know this doesn't make sense but I spose the Carby seems in the way if mounted on the mounting side.
It's still sticking out the side on the right.
My rationale in asking this is that shorter pipes with fewer joints are less likely to be leak sources.
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Yep. Your right.
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Yep. Your right.
Nope. He is right. I'm left. (if you are talking carb placement) :laughing-on-ground:
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Love the seats too.
+1 on the seats. Too cool.
That pic Laitch posted shows other people have done carburated K bikes. Some diligent Googling might turn up some helpful info.
What is the gas tank off of?
The angle of the drive shaft is pretty severe, but not sure what you could do about that.
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I’ll try to answer some questions, without using upside down pictures.
1. Injectors are still there, duct tape just keeping dirt out of hole.
2. Damned if I remember why I put the carb on that side. There was a good reason at the time.
3. 99% sure the manifold does not leak. I’m gonna pull it off and check every joint.
4. Air cleaner has been off and I watch the throttle plates while it revs up........they are closed.
5. It is the original tank, just widened and made deeper.
6. Driveshaft turns freely when spinning rear tire. Not sure about longevity.
7. The seats go along with the retro design, same with the 53 Caddy rear fenders, and the 34 Ford pickup rear fenders covering the front wheel ( from the upside down drawing)
On picture of rear end, 318i had drum brakes which I eliminated and replaced with 2 K75 rotors and calipers mounted inboard. I just love building things. I’m using ALL BMW parts to build this thing. Other than the retro stuff, this is what BMW should have built a long time ago. They had all the parts.
Thank you again for all your help and patience,
Sopp
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I’ll try to answer some questions, without using upside down pictures.
1. Injectors are still there, duct tape just keeping dirt out of hole.
Thank you again for all your help and patience,
Sopp
Are you sure the injector o-rings aren't cooked?
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You aren't using the original high pressure fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor are you? What's the fuel delivery system? Having the carb intake pipe directly opposite one branch of a three-branch intake creates imbalance. Right now, this project is less like bringing a K75 to back to life and more like like turning a K75 corpse into a zombie. If it develops a lurching, foot-dragging gait, that could define success. (http://www.motobrick.com/Smileys/MB_Smiley/laughing4-giggles.gif)
Since you've made your age part of the reason for this fuel system remodeling, how old are you? Remember, you're only older than the dirt that's above you.
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After market fuel pump delivering 4 to 5 psi.
Good question, I’ll pull them when I check the manifold. Air has to be getting in somehow. Can’t rev like that without lots of air and fuel. Even if I’m new to BMWs, all engines are still just air pumps with combustion. All the same principles apply.
I’m 72 years young. My body feels like 90, but my spirit is still 21. It’s a curse.
If it ‘s gate is like a zombie I’ll just have to build a new manifold. Cross that bridge when I finally get to ride it.
Sopp
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I’m 72 years young. My body feels like 90, but my spirit is still 21. It’s a curse.
If it ‘s gate is like a zombie I’ll just have to build a new manifold. Cross that bridge when I finally get to ride it.
The real curse is wishing you were 72 when you're 82 and feeling 100—speaking of bridges to cross. :giggles
Although engines are just air pumps, some design principles still apply to multi-cylinder manifolds.
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Maybe revisit Gryph's idea fully cover top of carb. If while still idelling maybe you can hear where air enters.
Exhaust blowing and Sucking or blowing?
Coolant full?
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Air has to be getting in somehow. Can’t rev like that without lots of air and fuel. Even if I’m new to BMWs, all engines are still just air pumps with combustion. All the same principles apply.
Exactly.
Not knowing the extent of fire damage to injectors it's hard to say, but even in normal operation o-rings can harden and leak air.
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+1
You have six, need six, but three good might do. Many cars have the same o rings.
Maybe bolt the fuel rail back on too so they are pressed in.
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+1 you need to clamp the injectors down with the fuel rail and new "O" rings to eliminate any leaks.
Regards Martin.
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Do the injectors just pull out? I didn’t want to break anything so I left them in for now. I did manage to put my back out so that ended working on it for today. I thought vacuum would hold them in so I didn’t create anything to hold them in. That will be easy to build.
Sopp
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Yep, they do.
You can get free workshop manuals from this site, and an actual book will help too.
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Pulled the injectors and replaced the o-rings today, that was all my back would let me do. Everything looked good, nothing obvious. Put a little permeated behind the o-rings. Made a bracket to hold the injectors in place. When doing this I noticed some “ smoke “ on the intake manifold right above the injectors. That happened once when it backfired so there must be some sort of hole. Will dig into that tomorrow.
Sopp
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The source of the smoke when it backfired was likely the injector holes since the injectors were unrestrained. It is possibly the source this time too, if your bracket isn't pressing the injectors in with enough force.
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:popcorm
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Quick update
Started bike several times today. Revel up to about 4000 once when running but had it idling several times. Vast improvement from what it was doing. “Repairing “ the o-rings fixed part of the problem, so we are on the right track. Next will be to remove carb, check manifold for leaks, and maybe replace the carb with another one.
Thanks again for your help and patience with me,
Sopp
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Bonus, progress.
If, like me, your hearing is not the best, another pair of ears might help you locate the area of the leak.
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Found the leak.
Finally got back to working on the trike. Pulled the intake manifold off and sure enough one of the manifold connectors was broken ( not sure of the proper name of the rubber piece between intake and head ). Ordered one on eBay, should be here by Tuesday, back together and progress will be made.
Thanks for all the ideas and assistance,
Sopp
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Re-assemble everything, put the Weber 32/36 back on it, a little shot of spray start, fired up and sat there and idled beautifully. Almost ready to ride. What a relief.
Thank you one and all for your ideas and assistance.
Ride on............
Sopp
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Good one.
I know it's a tall order, but it would be good to see a video when you get to ride it.
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For a Neanderthal like me, that might be a tall order. These modern devices are still new to me. I’ll just have my grandson film me and the trike.
Had the back wheels off ( on jack stands ) and ran it through the gears . Shifted good, accelerated great, but I don’t have rear brakes yet so I don’t know how it will stop yet. Waiting for a master cylinder to arrive from Summit. Then I can give it a real try.
Ride on............
Sopp
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Hope all is well with you & yours Sopp? Been a while since any update (Just call me the Thread Necromancer) & no video of the first ride either, fingers crossed the brakes weren't THAT bad...
In all seriousness though, hope you're good.
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The key is in my garage---------somewhere. 2 days of searching has not turned it up.
This has probably been asked before but I could not find it in a search. How do I start a K75 without the chip key? What are the 4 wires on the back of the switch that need to be hooked up to start the engine. I have jumped red to both blue and green and everything lights up and it turns over great but will not fire. What do I do with the gray wire? How do I get around not having a chip?
After many years of sitting idle, I decided to dust it off and get her going. I was on this forum many years ago but had to re-register since I could not remember my password. Hope you can help me get this old girl going again.
Thanks,
Sopp
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My Brick has the original ignition switch. There is no chip in either the flat key or the folding key. Did you install an aftermarket switch of some sort?
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:johnny OMG The tri-wheel with the Weber on top! :laughing4-giggles: Welcome back, Sopp!
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If only it were a Kia......
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A little history: stolen and recovered, bought from insurance company by a friend who promptly lost all paper work and has since passed away. I hate to stick too much more into this until I get a legit title, but, would still like to get it up and running.
The key that came with it and worked just fine had a chip in it. Key still remains lost. I'm assuming it was original to the bike. I was told that the bike is a 1989....?????...... I'll see if I can figure out the VIN number on the frame.
Also, since I don't have the key, how do I get the gas tank open?? All of this is mute if I can't put gas in it.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Sopp
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Also, since I don't have the key, how do I get the gas tank open?? All of this is mute if I can't put gas in it.
Click this link (https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock#111842) to learn about opening the cap without a key. Put the last seven digits of the serial number into this VIN checker (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select?product=M&archive=1) to find out about your ride.
The key might have had a chip but there are no electronic components in the ignition switch of classic Bricks that would communicate with a chip. Maybe you're referring to an anti-theft alarm that was under the seat. The key to that didn't have a chip either. :laughing4-giggles:
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Shouldn’t be too hard to hotwire, somebody here must’ve done that before?
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Grey wire connects power to the BMU and park lamp above the headlight.
Grey/Blue connects for headlights and dash back lighting.
Green goes to the Load shed relay, and kill switch.
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Main reason I thought there was a chip involved was 1. the key had a chip in it, 2. the bike ALWAYS started perfectly with the key, even after long periods a little spray start and off it would go. Now without the key it will not even fire. With the red wire jumped to the blue and green, all the dash lights come on and it spins over great........but no fire, not even with a good shot of spray start.
I've been working on cars and building hot rods for over 60 years, so I'm not a greenhorn. Guess I'll be checking the wiring to the coils tomorrow to make sure something hasn't happened there.
Thank you for the replies and the info ( gas cap drilling tomorrow ). I will let you all know when I find what is causing this problem.
Sopp
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I'm just explaining what I know about originally-equipped Bricks, Sopp. If your buddy modified his ride with a custom ignition, clearly that's beyond me, and you would know better. What I do know is that if I lost my Brick's non-chip key, my Brick wouldn't start either. :laughing4-giggles:
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Stop. Before you drill into the fuel cap, maybe remove the fuel sender, pour in some fuel and reinstall it. You haven't found the keys in the garage, could it be in the house on the key holder, or wherever you put your car keys, or someplace else? And welcome back Sopp I remember your interesting build.
I would jump the red wire with the green wire and see if it starts.
What do you mean by jumping the red wire with the blue and green? The grey/blue (grey with a blue stripe) is supposed to supply power to the ignition, not receive it, so don't connect that to the red wire. Or do you mean the green wire with a blue stripe, because that wire is supposed to be for the light switch. The blue stripe might be faint now after all these years, so is easy to confuse with the green wire for the ignition switch, and my eyes are over sixty years old as well.
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This is my first Brick and only my second bike ( first was an Ariel Square 4 back in H.S. ), so the chip on the key had me believing that was standard. Now my head is on straight about the ignition. NO CHIP. Problem somewhere else.
Key was on the key rack in the garage with all the other project car keys. Never anywhere else. The old saying goes, "If the wife can't find it, it really is lost".
Getting late, more digging tomorrow, or actually later today.
Thanks again,
Sopp
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Some other places where they shouldn't be, motorbike jacket pockets, motorbike pants pocket, bike tool box, steering lock, other lock (my RT has thirteen locks) attached to car keys, car console or glove to bring to locksmith or forgotten at locksmith.
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Some other places where they shouldn't be, motorbike jacket pockets, motorbike pants pocket, bike tool box, steering lock, other lock (my RT has thirteen locks) attached to car keys, car console or glove to bring to locksmith or forgotten at locksmith.
I tore apart the house and garage looking for my missing key a week ago. Found it in the seat lock, hidden by my Dryspec bag. I felt so stupid for not having checked there first.
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Some other places where they shouldn't be, motorbike jacket pockets, motorbike pants pocket, bike tool box, steering lock, other lock (my RT has thirteen locks) attached to car keys, car console or glove to bring to locksmith or forgotten at locksmith.
In addition to these are jail cells, defendants' chairs in courtrooms, proctologists' specimen jars, and emesis basins.
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It's so good to know I'm not the only one who does stuff that feels like dumb stuff sometimes. Plus I should have said if pouring fuel in from under, you would want tank on the right side, not upside down.
Plus, I think at least some places used to have an option of cutting a key if given just the Vin number
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Well, I guess I'm just a slurry of misinformation. I was lied to right from the start. Turns out I don't have a K75. What I own is a 1980, R100 RS that was built for the European market, what ever that means.
Drilled the cap per specification in the link, but still can't get it open. Try again tomorrow.
Still can't get it to fire. Never had a problem starting before. Try again tomorrow.
Built the mounts for the front air bag today. Now to get those pesty springs out of the forks so that it is full air suspension. Any hints on removing the springs will be appreciated. I've never taken forks apart.
Thanks again for the advise and assistance on bring this old girl back to life,
Sopp
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1980 R100RS?
I think you will find that there may not be very many of the members here who can answer your questions and provide any useful information. I know that I have absolutely no experience with your bike.
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I'll guess they told you the truth, if it's got three cylinders ( or three coils) cause a three cylinder boxer is as rare as you can get.
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Now I'm really confused. Looked up a bunch of images of an R100 RS. Mine looks nothing like an R100 RS. VIN last 7 numbers are 6223203. What I have looks just like a K75. I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them. I will also recheck the VIN ( I'm sometimes a little dyslexic ).
Nothing is ever easy for me...........
Sopp
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Drilled the cap per specification in the link, but still can't get it open. Try again tomorrow.
If you drilled it exactly as the post described, put a screwdriver or rod through the hole with its handle angled like in the attached photo then push forward. The end of the screwdriver—or rod—is inside the loop of the latch. If this isn't working for you, the screwdriver might not be deep enough or your angle needs to be changed some.
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Now I'm really confused. Looked up a bunch of images of an R100 RS. Mine looks nothing like an R100 RS.
Is this the same Brick you had in 2019, Sopp. Click here to confirm. (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=12414.0) If so, its identity has been known since then and we still can't convince you the key didn't have a chip. :laughing4-giggles: If not, post a few photos of it.
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If you drilled it exactly as the post described, put a screwdriver or rod through the hole with its handle angled like in the attached photo then push forward. The end of the screwdriver—or rod—is inside the loop of the latch. If this isn't working for you, the screwdriver might not be deep enough or your angle needs to be changed some.
There's another method for drilling the gas that I've read about. (But never personally tried.)
You could also drill a small hole up near the front and use a screwdriver or other tool to push back the tang at the front that holds the gas cap closed. Note that pushing down on the gas cap makes it easier to slide that back.
(https://i.imgur.com/PuSwuHS.jpg)
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Do you have the BMW folding key? If so, I suspect the missing "chip" is probably the small BMW roundel. It has nothing to do with unlocking anything, it's just a "Stinking badge".*
Like others here, I am eagerly looking forward to when you can post a couple recent photos of this bike your are working on.
*semi obscure movie reference
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1. Rechecked VIN 6223203
2. Yes this is the same Brick as the pictures from 2019.
3. Measured twice, drilled once in gas cap. Probably not pushing hard enough, since it hasn't been opened since 2019.
4. Key is still MIA
From the 2019 pics.............What have I got????? If it's a K75, why dose the VIN say it's an R100RS from 1980, and what do they mean by "for European Market"????? Dose not meet U.S. specs?
I'm going out to work on it.....................
Sopp
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From the 2019 pics.............What have I got????? If it's a K75, why dose the VIN say it's an R100RS from 1980, and what do they mean by "for European Market"????? Dose not meet U.S. specs?
You've got a K75 just like you had in 2019. Where is the VIN located that gives you that number—on the frame or on a piece of paper somewhere? Have you looked on the frame to the rear of the coolant tank? European market means that it was made for purchasers in Europe. It would have different light switches that didn't need to conform to USA always-on standard and maybe some other minor differences depending upon which state, province or country was its destination. It was likely shipped into the Western Hemisphere by somebody who owned it.
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Euro bikes have some minor differences. For example, Euro (and other non-US bikes) have a headlight switch while US bikes don't and have that circuit shorted so that the headlight is always on. US bikes have a high altitude plug that adjusts the mixture for the less dense air. Non-US bikes don't have that.
Euro switch:
(https://i.imgur.com/KDTnLdY.jpg)
Where did you get that VIN? Look for the VIN stamped into the frame on the right side.
(https://i.imgur.com/lTssFLl.jpg)
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Post a photo of the number on the frame. Based on the usually accurate information from Snowbum's BMW motorcycle site (https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/id-yr-codes-pwr.htm), the serial number range for the K75RT model would be able to include your Brick's number if the number was actually 6229209 or any variation to the last three digits numerically earlier than 305. With that in mind look at your ride's frame. Maybe the nines were worn down into threes, or some other mutation.
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Total VIN on right side stamped in is WB1057307N6223203
The number the left side paper tag is WB1057307N6223203 Not sure if that tag is really paper but it is applied to the frame.
Pulled the springs out of the forks today and dropped tree down lower on the spring tubes. Will reassemble the bag mounts tomorrow and the front should be done. If it looks presentable I'll take pics to post.
Sopp
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Total VIN on right side stamped in is WB1057307N6223203
The number the left side paper tag is WB1057307N6223203
Thanks for that.
Those numbers don't conform to any of the K75 records I've found. The fourth digit in all K75 622 series serial numbers is 9, not 3, except for one number-6220000. You've got yourself a mystery there, Sopp, but according to the photos you posted here in 2019, it was a K75 until you got a hold of it. :laughing4-giggles: I'd still like to view photos of the frame stamp and tag but am looking forward to any updated photos of the Brick that you can provide. 112350
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That's a weird VIN issue.
The decal on the left frame is required to show that the bike meets NHTSA eligibility requirements for import.
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The mystery is over. The VIN is actually.........................6229203....................that 9 is rather scratched up. 1992 K75RT US market.
And it still won't start.
Sopp
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Like any motor, you need air, fuel, compression and spark.
You say you have fuel, and obviously you also have air.
The battery power goes thru the ignition switch, then thru the kill switch to the +side of the coils. The - side is switched on/off by the ignition controller, that gets input from the HES on the front of the engine.
That's about as simple as it gets for what you have left.
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Printed out a copy of the wiring diagram, blew it up big enough to read, and spent the last 3 days going over every wire with a magnifying glass. Everything works as it should except: The turn signals don't work, and I have no spark at the sparkplugs. Never failed to start back in 2019. Nothing changed since then. No wires chewed on by mice, all connections tight.
Any ideas on what and how to test the system would be greatly appreciated. Been a backyard mechanic all my life, EXCEPT on these damn computerised systems. My old cars are fixed by me. I don't even change oil on my newer stuff, afraid I'll screw something up.
Thanks to Laitch for combining the earlier thread with this one. Don't know if I mentioned this before but the reason for the 3 wheel conversion is that I have no sense of balance. People won't even take for a ride since I'm also a terrible passenger.
Sopp
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Since the signal for the injectors is coordinated with the engine rotation by the signal from the Hall Sensors, you can check if they are working properly by cranking the engine and listening with a long screwdriver for the injectors pulsing. That will give you alittle idea of which half of the spark system is giving you trouble.
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Once you have a blown up diagram get it laminated. Stick it on your wall and use China graphic pencils to mark out your circuit. They can be had in various colours. When you're finished the pencil traces can be easily removed with wax and grease remover.
Regards Martin.
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Since the signal for the injectors . . . you can check if they are working properly.
Not any more. Sopp's Brick has a carburetor.
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Went through damn near every wire on that trike and everything works properly. I have power everywhere it should be with key turned on.
Except it still won't fire. Only 2 places that could be the problem: the H.E.S. or the I.C.U.. Does anyone know how to check these items? I have power to each coil via the GnCe wire, and power to the ICU.
Does the H.E.S. ever go bad?
Does the I.C.U. ever go bad?
Can't help but think it's in the wiring some place, ran beautifully last time I tried to start it ( 4 years ago ).
Is there someplace else on this board I should be asking these questions?
Took some pics of the air suspension, now that it's up and working, but can't find the pics when I try to attach them to a post. Will try again later.
Sopp
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Does the H.E.S. ever go bad?
Does the I.C.U. ever go bad?
Yes.
Four years is a long time to leave a motorcycle idle. Oxidation befouls connections. It isn't surprising that it doesn't start despite starting years ago. It's a story that has been repeated here often but your story is unique because you've changed the fuel system from injector to carburetor. You need a fully-charged battery and you need to spray fogging oil into each cylinder before starting because the rings could be seized in their grooves and not sealing the cylinders well enough to provide sufficient compression for ignition. That is old-school stuff and you probably have taken appropriate measures, but I'm mentioning it anyway because I can. :laughing4-giggles:
There are tests for both in the K100 2V Troubleshooting Guide link at the bottom of this post in the Repair Guidance section (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=529cda64c5617272df5998ab67ea3184&topic=11295.msg98535#msg98535).
You should perform the so-called Ignition Module Tests in the troubleshooting guide to compare your ICU setup with the test's voltage and resistance figures in the table. There is also an HES test. Many functions are similar in the K100 and the K75. For the HES test, a 12V LED with pigtail is required.
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The front air bag is done, for now, upper attachment will be covered later.
Still won't fire. Been checking grounds and every connection I can find. Might have to start replacing $$$$ stuff next.
Sopp
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Could this be my problem??? That looks like a burn to me. When I cleaned it off there didn't seem to be any connection between pin and any other "line" in the mother board.
Anyone have an extra I.C.U. they would like to sell? One on Ebay for $75 and free shipping, but I thought I would check here first.
I need to replace it before I stick any more money or work into this brick.
Thank for all the help I have received from everyone.
Sopp
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Don't remember the details, I'll have a squiz at your thread on the weekend.
I think it's cranking but not running. I'd go to the basics. I think you had spark, spray some starter fluid down the carby while cranking to see if that fire's it up.
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Don't remember the details, I'll have a squiz at your thread on the weekend.
I think it's cranking but not running. I'd go to the basics. I think you had spark, spray some starter fluid down the carby while cranking to see if that fire's it up.
A K will start if you just take the snorkel off of the air box and spray it in there. Starter fluid aerosolizes enough to flow through the air filter and start the bike.
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I have everything except spark. It appears that the wires that connect to the pins in question go to the H.E.S.. That could explain no spark. I'll do some more investigating today.
Sopp
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Installed a new ICU..................still no spark. Will start replacing plug wires and plugs next. Not sure where to look next.
Sopp
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Well, the 3 legged Brick is going back into storage. Maybe I'll bring it back out in another 4 years. Can't afford to just throw new parts at it in hopes that I hit on the right one before I go bankrupt.
Thank you all for your help and interest in this crazy idea. I'll engage with you again when I get back to working on it in the future.
Over and out,
Sopp
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Good luck, Sopp! Thanks for letting us into your adventure with this thing. 112350
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I've dedicated this week to cleaning the garage. Maybe I'll make enough room for the Brick AND my '42 Dodge C.O.E. for the winter.
Sopp
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Don't be a stranger around here. We have a brick to get running.
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I'm not giving up on the ol' girl, just taking a vacation from beating my head against it's gas tank. When I bring her back into the garage the first thing I'll dig into is the H.E.S. since it's not getting a "pulse" to the coils. I've read several articles on ignition issues on this board. Just need to apply what I read. Made enough room in the garage to bring it in and the C.O.E. This fall it's back to work.
Sopp