Post by: szabgab on January 14, 2019, 08:28:06 AM
As the bike starts to shape up mechanically I am about to tackle the cosmetic side of things. My screen has been cracked on the mounting points, since I have got it, I have glued it and so on, it is sound but not pretty. I was looking into the aftermarket screens (as BMW charges ridiculous amounts on yet another piece of plastic) and came across a British manufacturer, Skidmarx selling screens for our bikes for a good price. However their windshield is wider and longer, than the stocker and I was just wondering, if anybody has got pictures of such a screen on the bike? For some reason the screen manufacturer does not have any pictures of that thing mounted on an actual bike unfortunately..
The screen in question is this -> https://www.skidmarx.co.uk/bmw/bmw-k75s-flip-up-tall-screen?search_query=k75s&results=2 They have different colour options. Also they have their ebay webshop, but for some reason the screens there are sold with a huge markup.
The dimensions are: overall height ~21", height of main part of screen ~17.5", width ~18"
I do believe, the last screen posted by Gio on this topic http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7435.0 is the one, I am looking for.
Thank you!
Gab
Post by: stokester on January 14, 2019, 11:21:18 AM
Post by: szabgab on January 14, 2019, 01:25:01 PM
BMW has them in the US for about $150USD.
Thanks Stokester... The US price for this is better, what we would be charged in Hungary (180 USD), but given how crappy the British Pound is, the Skidmarx screen is half of the BMW list price...
Post by: Martin on January 14, 2019, 01:56:40 PM
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Post by: szabgab on January 14, 2019, 02:02:46 PM
Szabgab I had my 75s screen taken out by a low flying bird. It broke off the corner, but no other damage. I bought some super glue gel and a spray pack of kicker (activator) from a local hobby shop. You apply the glue then line up all the parts and when you are satisfied with the alignment you spray with the kicker this sets the glue in an instant. You can then carefully sand off any surplus glue. The repair was then cover with boat deck tape (anti slip) cut to size and matched on both sides and front and back. The end result looks good and the deck tape reinforces the join.
Regards Martin.Windscreen Crack 1.jpg (47.96 kB . 768x576 - viewed 530 times)
Martin, thanks for the tip. I have done something similar, superglued the pieces together and covered the ugliness with car type stretchable vinyl. However mine is damaged in a slightly different way, somebody has gone all He-man on the screws and that cracked the screen bolting holes sunshine shaped. You fix one crack, the others will carry on spreading. If you drill them out, you basically remove a large chunk of the screen, as the cracks are very not much spread out
Post by: Martin on January 14, 2019, 02:16:40 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: szabgab on January 14, 2019, 05:02:34 PM
To stop cracks from spreading you need to drill a small hole at the end of the cracks and use a thinner wicking superglue. I haven't tried it yet but a filler can be made using super glue and baking powder. Due to the fact that deck tape is made to be walked on, it is thicker than a lot of other tapes. Careful use of a heat gun allows it to be molded somewhat to do compound curves the heat also helps it to adhere. I also have it applied under my 22Lt top box and on my tank to stop belt buckle scratches caused by morons who think it's their right to sit on your bike while you are not there.
Regards Martin.
Yes, I would drill holes, but there are just too many cracks. Using ordinary superglue wicks into the cracks, but the glue itself is brittle and if I tighten the screws to anything but finger-tight, the screen just cracks either straight away or on the first bump in the road. I did try to strengthen it from the rear by gluing a thin acrylic piece to it, it does help somewhat but it is not the ticket either. So in my case I will have to cough up the dough for a new screen no matter how much I try to avoid that :) That strong vinyl, you have put on looks rather sharp though, so I might use something like that on the bottom part of the belly pan where it gets all those stone chips and it is going to be painted with black bumper paint anyway...
Post by: johnny on January 14, 2019, 05:29:48 PM
and another trusted screen manufacturer... (https://www.secdem.fr/en/catalogue-produit.php?reference=BB006HP)
parabellum (http://parabellum.7/K75S-Windshield-System-P5.aspx)
Post by: daveson on January 14, 2019, 06:38:50 PM
Or if not in hurry look for one on net for sale.
Or make one from a sheet of polycarb. You don't need much skill I found as I did it on my bike. But you want two pieces one for practice run and one to keep. I got a few pieces for free from a local commercial playground company.
Post by: szabgab on January 15, 2019, 06:33:16 AM
common sense is required... (https://bikescreen.com/collections/bmw-k-75/products/bmw-k-75-s)
and another trusted screen manufacturer... (https://www.secdem.fr/en/catalogue-produit.php?reference=BB006HP)
Thank you Johnny.
The first link is dearer, than the factory screen especially with postage charge. Given how much I still love the original look of this bike, I would be hard-pressed to fit anything, that looks different (especially for a premium)
The Secdem is nice, but it is a high screen, and I am just tall enough (6"1) not to have buffeting issues with the stock windshield as I am sitting in full (but clear) air stream from shoulder up. I fear an inch or so rise in the screen would direct air right in my face.
I start to fear, I am talking myself into getting a stock screen for silly BMW prices :D
Post by: szabgab on January 15, 2019, 06:40:06 AM
Another option is a second hand bike shop.
Or if not in hurry look for one on net for sale.
Or make one from a piece of polymer. You don't need much skill I found as I did it on my bike. But you want two pieces one for practice run and one to keep. I got a few pieces for free from a local commercial playground company.
I was thinking about that, however the S screen has got multiple bends and even if I get rid of the flip, I am not sure, how I could contour the plexi without kinking it. As the stocker is rubbish anyway, I thought about making a plaster negative from the inside and choking that in the stove with a new plexiglass on top on low heat setting, till the plexi takes the shape of the plaster, but nobody really done something similar and I fear, it is because it is just plain silly :) My mum has got an advertisement studio and they are bending plexisheets in right angles with a heating element, but making a screen with hard bends would make look the bike just a tad too DIY :)))
Post by: K1300S on January 15, 2019, 11:12:11 AM
http://www.aeroflowscreens.com/K75S/K75S.htm
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 15, 2019, 01:19:01 PM
The cut down screen puts my helmet in clean air, reducing helmet noise a lot. The bike also looks a lot better and even a bit modern with the lower screen.
Post by: szabgab on January 15, 2019, 03:32:08 PM
If it was my bike, I would do what Martin suggested. Instead of the non-skid, I would use stone-guard which has a slightly smoother finish that would probably be easier to clean. If turbulence is an issue(it was for me) you can shorten the windshield about 4or 5 inches.
The cut down screen puts my helmet in clean air, reducing helmet noise a lot. The bike also looks a lot better and even a bit modern with the lower screen.
Now skip what I said about the factory screen, this actually looks rather nice. The bike lost a bit from the top of it's head, so I'd probably cut slightly less, but the look without the flip is great actually!
Post by: Martin on January 15, 2019, 03:43:42 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 15, 2019, 04:40:46 PM
Post by: szabgab on January 15, 2019, 04:50:58 PM
Martin, when you say marine deck tape, the stuff I think of is something like 36 grit abrasive. Stone guard can be pretty thick and doesn't have quite the aggressive texture.
I had a look myself, and 36 grit is the heavy duty stuff. Normal anti-slip is more like 60-80 grit
Post by: Martin on January 15, 2019, 05:41:15 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on January 15, 2019, 07:18:19 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: szabgab on January 16, 2019, 08:13:16 AM
Hopefully better pictures showing the texture, and originally you could also get it in different widths. It was available by the metre off a roll or in a packet. When it started to become hard to obtain I did a check and it was available on line.
Regards Martin.
All I have seen is the sanding paper lookalike thing. This actually is a lot nicer, probably something to be walked on barefooted?
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on January 16, 2019, 10:19:10 AM
I suppose that you could fill in the grit finish a little by coating it with something like truck bed liner.
If the purpose is to hide the cracks and reinforce the plastic, I suppose you could put a couple layers of the black vinyl film that's used for signs on the front and back.
Post by: Martin on January 16, 2019, 01:15:32 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: szabgab on January 16, 2019, 02:57:56 PM
I did a search last night and after a couple hours of looking came to the conclusion that it's all 80 grit abrasive paper now except for the non skid that's for bathtubs. Trouble is, that stuff only comes in white or gray.
I suppose that you could fill in the grit finish a little by coating it with something like truck bed liner.
If the purpose is to hide the cracks and reinforce the plastic, I suppose you could put a couple layers of the black vinyl film that's used for signs on the front and back.
Hi couple of layers of anything is going to be trouble. Using the stretching vinyl made for car places was a pain, as you have to have the proper technique, otherwise you end up with creases... I doubt I could do a reasonable enough job with multiple layers of the same thing. I did try to buy some truck liner btw, but all I have seen was this service, when they spray it on for you rather than having that thing in a spray can. The closest, you will get to that look (which I incidentally like so much, I would paint the whole bike with) is bumper paint, but that is some crappy plastic, that cracks readily and peels off...
Post by: johnny on January 17, 2019, 08:03:04 PM
Post by: szabgab on January 18, 2019, 02:34:34 AM
Gryph I also did a search and couldn't find any. I have a couple of metres in stock, but I guess it would be a wise move to get some more. The last time I bought some he didn't even know they had it, and he'd never sold any. They didn't even have a price in the computer and had to pull a price out of thin air. Why is it when you find a really good product it disappears. The hunt is now on for another source.
Regards Martin.
Martin, Gryphon, Johnny - I went to this anti-slip shop (there is such a thing, who would have thought) and they have the sandpaper looking tape for outside and textured pvc to be walked barefooted inside. That pvc looks exactly like the one, you have sent a picture of, it is not cheap, around 10USD per metre, but it is very very strong, basically a thick layer of PVC with grain on one side, looks very much like this https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Traction-Resilient-Rubberized/dp/B00I511BDQ If you search for rubberized anti slip, that is the stuff, we are looking for
Post by: Martin on January 18, 2019, 03:19:04 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on January 18, 2019, 08:10:01 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Martin on January 21, 2019, 01:39:19 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: szabgab on January 21, 2019, 02:19:38 AM
Aliexpress looks to have something similar.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Roll-5CM-5M-Waterproof-Anti-Slip-Bathroom-Tapes-Non-Slip-Adhesive-Stairs-Tape-Harmless-Rubber/1000006304736.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.138.5f901bedYoaWWr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10130_10890_10547_319_10546_10548_317_5736020_5736120_10696_453_10084_454_10083_433_10618_431_10307_537_536_10131_10132_10133_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=169d8877-56be-4dbb-9408-9316e40ed338-21&algo_pvid=169d8877-56be-4dbb-9408-9316e40ed338&transAbTest=ae803_4
Regards Martin.
Good find Martin, and for a cracking price... Would you have a picture of the tape installed on the tank and the belly pan by any chance?
Post by: Martin on January 21, 2019, 04:05:42 AM
Regards Martin. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: szabgab on January 21, 2019, 11:26:48 AM
Szabgab when I first started using the tape it came in three widths 100mm, 50mm and 25mm. I used the 100mm and 50mm on the tank. I don't use the tape on the belly pan any more due to it being labour intensive. It requires a lot of pattern making and cutting and molding with a heat gun and had to be made of three 100mm strips for the front two vertical sides on either side of the pan and one horizontal across the lower edge. The belly had four 100mm strips butted up from front to rear. The trouble with the tape on the belly pan was that after around 8 years water would eventually work it's way under an edge allowing it to peel. The second time I replaced it was due to damage from a prang and it was still holding well after approx. 7-8 years.The stuff I found Ali is only 50mm wide, but there is sure to be more around in larger widths it might be worth emailing the supplier of the 50mm strips. If it is still available in OZ it has got to be available overseas I would try boat and marine supply shops as that is where I found it in three local marine shops. Now there is only one stocking it in black and white in 100mm widths.
Regards Martin.
Martin, this is great, thank you. I was also thinking getting the belly pan done in truck bedliner, if it withstands all sorts of stuff being dragged on it many many times, surely it would survive a stone or two thrown at it by the wheel. Also in that case it would be paint it once and forget about it forever, the stuff is basically a thick layer of PU plastic...
Post by: Martin on January 21, 2019, 12:19:57 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: szabgab on January 24, 2019, 03:29:36 AM
To save damage to the belly pan you need a front mudflap. These are now thin on the ground and expensive, try this link for a slightly cheaper solution .90 cent . It's coming up to three years old and still going well. I have also worked out how to do a rear mudflap by slightly varying the method but as I don't really want a rear one I haven't tried it yet. If any body is interested I might give it a go when I free up a bit of time. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7914.msg57660.html#msg57660
Regards Martin.
Hi Martin, I have followed the instructions on your excellent DIY tutorial and made myself an extender out of a PP flower pot. It set me back a whopping $1.50, or thereabouts, and I could probably make another 4-5 out of it. I have cut the pot wrong side around, as the curvature is the same, so the edge of the pot became the flip - see the pic attached. I also fabricated a ruubber flap to protect the clutch arm, gear indicator and such from water and debris. The picture is lousy, but I have cut the bottom of that flap to stripes, so it not interfering with the wheel anymore. Next will be the rear extender, but I need to work out, how to straighten the remaining bits of the curved flower pot :)
Post by: Martin on January 24, 2019, 04:40:31 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on January 24, 2019, 10:33:22 AM
. . . At a pinch boiling water might work but again be careful not to scald yourself.I wear my Durian peeling suit when working with boiling water; I just don't wear the respirator because I like the smell of coffee.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-240119103101.png)
Post by: szabgab on January 31, 2019, 02:34:40 PM
Post by: szabgab on February 06, 2019, 05:40:27 PM
Here are some pics too... The bike is really dirty and geared up for the winter commute, so it is as ugly, as it will ever get in it's life, but again, it is cold outside and these tossers salt the road every day come rain or shine.