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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: jiigan on December 30, 2018, 11:08:13 PM
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Hey guys,
First post. Just picked up a 1985 K100RS in pretty rough shape. Stripped it down and doing the basics for now. I opened the oil filter housing on the bottom of the engine and a bunch of oil came out (haven't taken the filter off yet) is this normal?
Also I am hearing a clicking sound from the area where the fuel injectors are, any thoughts?
Thank you in advance.
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Yes. The oil filter is IN the sump, not outside. That is why filters for K's don't have any stickers on the outside
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Oh I see, thank you. That is a new one for me. I was used to Jap and Italian bikes before, even had a 2005 BMW R1200 and never came across this. I appreciate the response. What about clicking noise from injector area?
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Now that you have drained the oil getting to the filter, when you add the oil back in, use the center stand when checking the sight glass oil level--- not the side stand.
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Show us your K bike!
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Here is the bike so far, pictures from when I picked it up and after stripping the plastics.
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Hey Guys,
I picked up an 85 k100rs and started stripping it down. Came across a weird yellow wire that is out of place and a weird switch under the left side handlebar. Could you please help identify.
Thank you
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It cleaned up nice. What are your intentions?
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It was filthy but yet it cleaned up pretty well. I am working on doing a cafe racer type of build. So far just going through the hoses in the fuel tank and radiator, doing the basic maintenance, replacing spark plugs, injectors.
The bike has 70k miles, I got it to start but it was smoking a little. I am assuming because it was on center stand for a over a year.
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I am assuming because it was on center stand for a over a year.
I don't think the center stand was the culprit. Many neglected engines will tend to smoke for a while after starting. Some K engines tend to smoke on startup when parked on the side stand regardless of how often they're run, so the center stand is used when they're parked to lessen that tendency.
Did you change the oil, fuel filter and fuel before you started it?
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I meant the side stand.. doh..
I didn't do anything before starting it just ran some seafoam in the gas. Wanted to make sure it starts before I start taking it apart. Since then I changed the plugs, fuel filter, oil filter.
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I'd pull of the T cover and see how the wire is connected.
It could be alternate power to the HES sensors, it could be a anti-theft "kill switch", it could be most anything.....
Can't tell 100% till you know how each end is connected, both behind the cover and what is connected on the back of the switch.
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Have you tried flipping the switch when it's running?
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I recommend doing a compression test and a valve clearance check right now before proceeding with grinding and powdercoating, You might need some of your customization cash to restore the engine to full function. If you establish now that it works well, you'll be ahead in the game.
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I recommend doing a compression test and a valve clearance check right now before proceeding with grinding and powdercoating, You might need some of your customization cash to restore the engine to full function. If you establish now that it works well, you'll be ahead in the game.
Laitch, it's a cafe build.
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:hehehe
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I recommend doing a compression test and a valve clearance check right now before proceeding with grinding and powdercoating, You might need some of your customization cash to restore the engine to full function. If you establish now that it works well, you'll be ahead in the game.
Thanks for the heads up, I am planning on doing the compression test soon. Didn't think about the valve clearance thought, probably a good idea.
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Have you tried flipping the switch when it's running?
:clap: Please video that moment, jiigan.
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Thanks for chiming in. Have not tried to mess with switch while running as I only found it after taking the bike apart. I will open the cover and see where the wire hooks up. The switch has 3 positions it can switch to as well as 3 wires in the back.
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I'd pull of the T cover and see how the wire is connected.
It could be alternate power to the HES sensors, it could be a anti-theft "kill switch", it could be most anything.....
Can't tell 100% till you know how each end is connected, both behind the cover and what is connected on the back of the switch.
Here is the picture of the cover removed and the back of the switch, any ideas?
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Well, looking at the t cover spot, the wire doesn't connect to the HES so that throws out the thought of a security kill switch idea....... and it looks like it does not connect to the switch, so there are 2 different things to sort here...
Does your bike have a water temp gauge?
Follow the yellow wire to the end, I'd almost bet that it was added for a water temp gauge sensor. If I'm not mistaken water temp gauges were not stock on older RS bikes.
As far as the switch, does your bike have heated grips on it now?
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The switch is next to the steering lock, so I'm guessing either anti theft kill switch or an alarm.
Regards Martin.
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Maybe a high altitude switch for the Jetronic unit? The wire routing wouldn't suggest that, but I thought I would...
Andy
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Where is the end of the yellow wire? Three weeks and still you haven't told us where it comes from and where it goes. How the are we supposed to tell you what it's for?
Here's my guess based on what I've seen so far. The switch is for a hyper drive that runs off two battery packs. The switch lets you select Low power or high power for the hyper drive.
The yellow wire could be for reading the intermolecular spectromatic status of the plasmatron ferdorator in the hyper drive. If the plasmatron gets too reverse fluxed, the drive goes into overload and there is no telling where you will come out. That could be dangerous. Has anyone removed the turbo vortex bifurcator? That's another place where the yellow wire might go.
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Here is the picture of the cover removed and the back of the switch, any ideas?
Describe exactly the colors of each wire and which wires are joined together at each plug terminal. The dirty condition of the wires in the photo doesn't aid in their identification on a schematic.
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Describe exactly the colors of each wire and which wires are joined together at each plug terminal. The dirty condition of the wires in the photo doesn't aid in their identification on a schematic.
C'mon, Laitch, that's what makes this so much fun. Use your creativity.
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Duhh :idea2: it goes to the Flux capacitor. He has hit the switch and gone back in time, that's why he is not answering. He is currently being chased by Velociraptors and once safe he'll answer. :sip:
Regards Martin.
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Duhh :idea2: it goes to the Flux capacitor. He has hit the switch and gone back in time, that's why he is not answering. He is currently being chased by Velociraptors and once safe he'll answer. :sip:
Regards Martin.
Or, he could be minutes into the future, reading these posts, and thinking "I really stepped in it this time." I think it's a "gift" from the engineers who designed the brick, many of whom spent their later years designing wee-toys with intricate bits for Kinder Eggs.
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LOL...with the references to "Back to the Future" here....I just saw a DeLorean sitting in the "for sale" lot at a local Army Post. soo tempting to put a spare blender on the roof...
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Every time someone says "Cafe Build", my bike is instantly worth more! :)
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Anyone know anything about that aftermarket windshield deflector? Is it effective?
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The Laminar Lip is very effective if you have helmet buffeting issues. Also inexpensive. I have had a couple and they work.
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Looks like you got a rather rare Fox Twin Clicker shock. NLA. But rebuildable. Nice. Adjustable compression and rebound.
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The "AGIP" sticker is super cool ... can't argue with a 6 legged dog breathing fire :)
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Hey guys,
Still working on the bike. I bought some vortex strap-ons and need to buy a new throttle assembly. Will this one from domino work? Also would i be able to use oem throttle cables or do I need to buy new ones.Thanks in advance for the insight.
https://cafe4racer.eu/en/throttle-control-for-cafe-racer-scrambler-brat-tracker-sport-motorcycle/1044-domino-throttle-control-22mm-vintage-cod-133503.html
Also a couple pics of the engine aftere hours of cleaning. I figured out that wd40 and a wire brush on drill is the only way to go.
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Stupid iphone... vortex strap-ons... hate auto correct
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greetings...
more than one vortex... what is the outside diameter of the tube...
j o
The tube is 22mm, i think it will physically fit. I am curious about the throttle cable setup thouh.
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greetings...
oe is 1 cable... your link is for 2 cable...
when folks axe these kinda questions i gotts to wonder if you gotts a manual or have even eyeballed whats you gotts there...
the moes here can answer mostly any oe questions... butts when you crafting a unique build you are mostly on your own especially when you dont poast photos and specs...
will the domino work... i can make it work... proally not as the maker intended... proally be whack... butts it will work...
j o
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Be aware that with Domino/Tomaselli products, 22mm can often mean 22.2mm, not 22.0mm, so aftermarket controls mounted on a BMW bar are likely to be loose until shimmed.
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greetings...
oe is 1 cable... your link is for 2 cable...
when folks axe these kinda questions i gotts to wonder if you gotts a manual or have even eyeballed whats you gotts there...
the moes here can answer mostly any oe questions... butts when you crafting a unique build you are mostly on your own especially when you dont poast photos and specs...
will the domino work... i can make it work... proally not as the maker intended... proally be whack... butts it will work...
j o
You are right, stupid question. Just looked at the old throttle tube that I took off.
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Hey guys,
I am still working on the cafe race build and have removed the clutch cable. Now there seems to be oil leaking from between the rubber boot gasket and the clutch lever at the rear of the engine. It looks like when I removed the tension the lever separated from the rubber boot, it will go in freely but there is oil that leaked out. Can anyone please elaborate?
Thank you in advance.
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Yes, that's normal. It's gear oil that bathes the clutch pushrod, which seeps past the thrust bearing.
Too bad that you didn't support the actuator arm when you removed the clutch cable as required. The spring inside the boot is too strong for the rubber material and the boot tears. You'll have to replace that part now and its not cheap.
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Watch this video by Chris Harris from the 4:00 minute mark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCnQE4vQTcs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCnQE4vQTcs)
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Yes, that's normal. It's gear oil that bathes the clutch pushrod, which seeps past the thrust bearing.
Too bad that you didn't support the actuator arm when you removed the clutch cable as required. The spring inside the boot is too strong for the rubber material and the boot tears. You'll have to replace that part now and its not cheap.
Thanks for the heads up, do you mean replace just the rubber boot? I ordered one just in case but it didn't look like the old one had any tares. When I install it, do I have to squirt any oil in there or just replace the boot?
Thanks
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Watch this video by Chris Harris from the 4:00 minute mark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCnQE4vQTcs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCnQE4vQTcs)
Thank you!
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Thanks for the heads up, do you mean replace just the rubber boot? I ordered one just in case but it didn't look like the old one had any tares. When I install it, do I have to squirt any oil in there or just replace the boot?
Thanks
Just replace the boot. But do it just as you are assembling for the final time. You don't want to make this mistake twice. If you really have to install it, then make sure to lash the actuator arm to the case of the transmission with binding wire so that it applies slight pressure to the clutch rod. That way, the arm is taking the spring pressure and not the rubber boot.
No need to oil upon assembly.
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Just replace the boot. But do it just as you are assembling for the final time. You don't want to make this mistake twice. If you really have to install it, then make sure to lash the actuator arm to the case of the transmission with binding wire so that it applies slight pressure to the clutch rod. That way, the arm is taking the spring pressure and not the rubber boot.
No need to oil upon assembly.
Thank you :)