MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: autojaka on December 17, 2018, 04:16:23 AM
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Hello,
help or any advice would be very appreciated here.
I have BMW K 100, 1984, and cheap Ebay speedo situation. And very same problem as fellow member Enfield has in his topic: Bro 3.0 with cheap EBay speedo..
So RPM problem/situation. I wanted to test rbm 's solution (and additionaly this solution without BEP 3.0 - http://starrymoto.pl/index.php/postepy/6-sygnal-rpm). And main difference:
- AS SOON AS I ADD ANY MODIFICATION ON RPM WIRE THE MOTOR WON T START. I am loosing mind here, because I have tried with tenth of combinations (resistor and capacitors)and the result is allways the same: zero, nada, niente...
So, good people here: please help my out of my misery if you have any suggestions. Is there a light at the end of the tunnel?
Regards
Dario
PS
I was also in contact with fellow member rbm. I would like to stand out that he is helpful and kind and that I appreciate his help.
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Hi mate
All the info you need is on this posting.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,11148.msg96946.html#msg96946
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Hi Dario,
I looked at the photo on your web site and it appears that you've clipped the Black/Blue wire somewhere between the coil primary and the OEM cluster connector, and then inserted the R-C network. Is that a correct assessment?
If so, you've done it incorrectly. The fact that your bike refuses to start when you do this is possibly due to you shorting out the coil primary and starving the spark plugs of energy.
The correct way to do this given that you have a BEP 3.0 installed is as I illustrate below:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2dkmjo4.jpg)
Please note that the R-C circuit has to be placed on the RPM output of the BEP. The values are difficult to see from the diagram; they are 33K Ohm resistor and 0.1 uF capacitor. I think your setup will work if you change it to be this way. The easiest repair is to clip off the capacitor from the Black/Blue wire and attach it to the RPM output of the BEP. Then repair the Black/Blue wire.
You have to think of the BEP as having two sides. The left side has the 24 pin connector to which you attach the OEM harness. The right side has a 24 pin pluggable socket. Think of the left side as being INPUTS and the right side as being OUTPUTS. The INPUT side accept power inputs, ground input, and signal inputs. The OUTPUT side strictly supplies the gauge and the dash indicator lights. You should not connect an input to the OUTPUT (right) side of the BEP. I hope that kind of makes sense.
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Hi Dario,
I looked at the photo on your web site and it appears that you've clipped the Black/Blue wire somewhere between the coil primary and the OEM cluster connector, and then inserted the R-C network. Is that a correct assessment?
If so, you've done it incorrectly. The fact that your bike refuses to start when you do this is possibly due to you shorting out the coil primary and starving the spark plugs of energy.
The correct way to do this given that you have a BEP 3.0 installed is as I illustrate below:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/97lgzl.jpg)
Please note that the R-C circuit has to be placed on the RPM output of the BEP. I think your setup will work if you change it to be this way. The easiest repair is to clip off the capacitor from the Black/Blue wire and attach it to the RPM output of the BEP. Then repair the Black/Blue wire.
Right again Robert. Exactly how I did mine and it worked and still works a treat.
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Right again Robert. Exactly how I did mine and it worked and still works a treat.
Hi all,
Are you guys saying Marulabs wonīt do itīs job without positive from battery over SWP and BAT?
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I just noticed an error in my hand drawn diagram earlier in this thread. The terminals marked BAT and SWP are not power drains (as I have drawn them) but rather power sources. They are meant to supply power to the gauge. So if your gauge calls for a continuous power source, then hook that wire of the gauge up to the BAT connector. If your gauge calls for a switched power source, then hook that wire up to the SWP connector. Don't follow my diagram until I fix it.
UPDATE: Fixed the diagram
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Thank you Rbm!