MOTOBRICK.COM
MOTOBRICK.COM => Welcome To Motobrick.Com => Topic started by: jaredc7 on December 03, 2018, 12:19:16 PM
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Hello all, new to the forum. I bought a non-running 1986 K75 about a year ago, and had it garaged since to finish a cafe racer build on a 1982 Honda CM450. Finally finished that project in September, wife and I had our first little this year, and now starting to get geared up to work on this K75.
I've seen the new member instructions, and will run my VIN soon this week. Just thought I would say hi and get introduced to you all here. I included a picture of my Honda cafe if anyone is interested, and my build thread is below. I do NOT plan on chopping up my K75 as much as I did the Honda. There is too much to love about the K75, so dont' plan on changing much!
https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/65-frame-suspension-steering/26932-cm450c-conversion-single-swing-arm-monoshock.html
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Here is my K75... pretty good shape for a $300 pickup!!! I was at this guy's house with the cash within 12 hours of seeing the online ad!
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Welcome, nifty job on the Honda. Fantastic price on the K, very versatile bike. Good luck, lotsa info & folks here to help work out bugs.
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welcome, nice work on the Honda!
I'll give ya $400 for the K right now?
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Nice find! Love the blue.
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Welcome, and your brick looks like a stellar bang for the buck.
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Welcome. That’s a pretty neat and nimble looking K75.
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Welcome from your neighbor to the east! I bet that you will like the K just as it is. A little more complexity on the K, but with EuromotoElectrics and Ebay, you will have it operational in no time...most likely before riding season. Good Luck.
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Thanks all, appreciate the replies. The previous said this bike sat in his garage for 15 years before he sold it to me... plus the 1 year I've owned it done nothing.
Per the wife, selling my Kawasaki Versys and going to get this K75 up and running. Apparently 3 motorcycles is too many? Doesn't seem right to me, but I think I'd rather ride the K75 than the Versys anyways. Hopefully I can get it ready before this 2019 summer season. After reading through a few threads here, as well as the K75 repair manual, it looks like I'll need to replace all of the following without even bothering to check if they work (sitting for ~16 years, 26k miles). Let me know if I'm missing anything?!
Fuel system (pump, lines, filter, and injectors), spark plugs, oil & oil filter change, rear spline inspection, grease, etc., change gear and final drive oil, battery, check & grease all cables, check/change fork oil, check/change brake pads & fluid, radiator coolant flush/fill. Need to replace the bent handlebar and levers too while I'm at it.
After all that, was thinking of getting new exhaust, gauges, lights (head, tail, blinkers), seat, and maybe even a matte/metallic blue vinyl wrap on the fuel tank and side panels.
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Let me know if I'm missing anything?!
Clean and apply lube to the transmission input splines. Whatever might have been on them has degraded by now. Replace the clutch rod boot and waterproof the gear position indicator.
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laitch,
I have not found anything on this. Would you please expand on the procedure?
Thanks.
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I would start by doing all the fluids and posting a photo of the inside of the tank so the oracles here can give informed guidance on what may be needed. No need to spend a bunch of money if it isn't necessary.
As Laitch mentioned, lube the all the splines including the transmission input/clutch splines. This will require pulling the transmission, which will allow you to check for oil leaks at the rear engine seal and the clutch o-ring. Even if they aren't leaking, they probably will when you start running the bike.
Another job is to replace the breather tube(AKA Z-tube that runs from the crankcase to the airbox). They aren't very costly, and are fragile where they are clamped.
The brakes are probably an area where you will need to spend some time and possibly some money. 16 year old brake fluid is going to be very nasty stuff. A lot of it will probably be crystallized in the system. Figure a quart of DOT 4 to flush the system. Once the system is flushed, be prepared to find that the rear master cylinder leaks. You may find that the brakes stick and drag because of crap in the lines plugging everything up. It's a good idea to plan on new stainless braid brake lines, and a new master cylinder. Fortunately, there is information here on replacing the $250 OEM master cylinder with a $10 Chinese unit.
Last, get a can of Deoxit D-5 and go through all the electrical connections with it. A lot of the problems on these old bikes can be prevented by cleaning all the connectors. Be especially focused on the bike's ground points, one on the transmission above the shift lever, and the other under the tank on the main frame backbone. Clean up the ground connectors with 600 grit so they're nice and shiny. I like to put a thin film of dielectric grease on the connections to keep them from getting wet and corroding.
With all that done, get a fresh battery, a gallon of no-corn gas, and try to start the engine. Chances are it will run like crap. Put a can of Chevron Techron or Seafoam in the tank, start the engine and let it run a few minutes to circulate the stuff and shut down. Let it sit for day and start again. It will take a few days to get the crap out and get things running well if you're lucky. If not, you will need to clean the injectors. Lots of information on doing that.
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I have not found anything on this. Would you please expand on the procedure?
In the attached image can be seen the gear position indicator switch cover, the clutch rod boot, the clutch lever (arm) and over on the right side, the transmission's splined output shaft. It's splined input shaft is on the other side. The input shaft engages with the clutch disc's hub. The shaft's splines should be carefully lubed with moly paste or Staburags paste.
The area in the attached photo can be a challenging environment of heat, grit and moisture. If the switch cover is damaged, the gear position indicator switch can become faulty from moisture incursion. Silicone or PlastiDip are some of the compounds applied to the cover to protect it from the elements. If the clutch rod boot is damaged, transmission oil is likely to leak from it, so treat it carefully and consider being ready to replace it if necessary.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/2/1601-290319201607.png)
A parts fiche like the one at MAX BMW (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx) has helpful diagrams of assemblies and can be used to determine which parts can be used on your moto. Get acquainted with one.
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Here is my K75...
That is a k75C; the drum brake and fairing tell us so.
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I would start by doing all the fluids and posting a photo of the inside of the tank so the oracles here can give informed guidance on what may be needed. No need to spend a bunch of money if it isn't necessary.
Here are some pictures of the inside of the gas tank... thanks for any input!
The bike was on hold for a year, had a new baby in the family, had to do some other things to the Honda cafe bike, but back on the K75C now!
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Except for the fuel level sender, the tank looks really nice. If it were mine, I'd pull the fuel level sender and soak it in vinegar overnight followed by a good rinse and drying with a hair dryer. Be careful not to disturb the fine wires of the sender.
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Pull the fuel pump using the 2 clips on pump supporting ring, check the pump vibration damper.
The damper rubber material disintegrate with age.
There is a OE petrol cap rebuild kit 16 11 9 062 461 and gasket ring 16 11 1 453 69
Some remove that flapper valve to get an extra 0.6 litre petrol into the tank. The drawback is some petrol seepage around the tank cap can begin to bubble the paint.
Good luck
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Some links for your K journey
Check parts compatibility with BMW MAX Microfiche, BOBS BMW, REAL OEM
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSearch.aspx
https://parts.maxbmw.com/BMW___BmwMotorradK.html
https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/microfiche/BrowseSeries.aspx
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?kind=M&arch=1
https://www.ascycles.com/BMW-Motorcycle-Parts-Fiche
Cross reference parts like Bosch pn#'s, etc.... http://partsplusecat.com/
No spaces in the part number
Parts Vendors
https://www.beemerboneyard.com/
https://www.capitalcycle.com/
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/
https://www.tills.de/
Headlight relay stuff if you chose to add one
https://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=268.0
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,4962.msg30932.html
http://culayer.com/product/matchbox-headlight-relay/
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
Eastern Beaver site is a great reference for electrical connectors,plugs, etc...
http://www.k100-forum.com/
http://www.kforum-tech.com/Tech-page.html
http://www.kforum-tech.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm
http://www.kforum-tech.com/Downloads/electrical/diagrams/interactive_diagrams.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/k100tshoot/K100.Troubleshoot.Start.2018.pdf
http://kbikeparts.com/index.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.new2k.htm
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/ckb.tech.toc.htm
http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/
http://www.verrill.com/moto/moto.shtml
this site has a lot of good info and breakdown pictures in the tech and tech resources sections for K1100 alot of the parts are on K75 & K100
http://www.k11og.org/forum/index.php?sid=2df953dde5715fd9001fbe69edec5ad0
https://ibmwr.org/index.php/k-bike-tech-articles/
This site has all kinds of technical specifications on all the BMW models http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/mechanicalpages/kseriesmechanical.htm
http://largiader.com
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Thanks everyone, really appreciate all the help here!!
I dove into the final drive today after doing som reading and homework on the issues BMW generally has with their FD. Here are some pictures of the gear splines... I really held my breath taking this apart hoping it would be somewhat greased and splines in good shape. The female splines seem pretty worn, and I am assuming I am better off replacing these before I have a FD failure. Thoughts?