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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: alexg on October 30, 2018, 09:49:55 PM
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Hi all:
I think that I have a caliper that is a little sticky. To service, I have tried to lift the front of the bike using a jack and a piece of soft wood under the belly pan (even the user manual indicated this). However, I am afraid of damaging the pan, as I will be mostly pushing on plastic that is 25 years old. Any better/safer process?
Thanks.
AlexG
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Can you attach a hoist or rope to a beam in the garage and lift by the triple tree?
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I use two 4' length of 2x4 and a couple of ratchet straps. Place bike on centre stand and slide the two pieces of timber under the centre stand about a foot one per side. Chock up the front wheel until the back tyre is of the ground. Remove the side covers and loop the ratchet strap around the timber and the frame and tighten. Pictures show the straps around the tragkorb frames but I have since revised the method and go around the frame. Kick out the front chock. I always do both sides as a safety measure but one side appears to hold.
Regards Martin.

Front end lift 1.png.jpg (56.27 kB . 768x576 - viewed 447 times)
Front end lift 2.png.jpg (48.26 kB . 768x576 - viewed 505 times)
Front end lift 3.png.jpg (61.13 kB . 768x576 - viewed 496 times)
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Brilliant!
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put bike on centerstand.
have someone lean on back of bike to lift front
insert 2x4 of correct length behind rear wheel between ground and triple tree.
NEVER lift from belly pan.
actually, the best way is to just unscrew the two bolts that hold the belly pan on and take it off, then jack off the engine case. pan is simple to remove.
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Thanks for all the replies. This confirms my fear of jacking the belly pan. Thanks,
AlexG
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I find 30-40 lb on the pillion will drop the rear to the ground ...
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take the belly pan off, put a piece of wood under the sump and jack to your heart's content.
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My other bikes, I would just put weight on the back.
If the centerstand isn't wonky, it works fine.
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If the centerstand isn't wonky, it works fine.
It works fine unless weight is accidentally applied to the front end causing weight on the rear to be accidentally displaced; then wonky really comes into play. :giggles Of course, mishaps rarely happen in home workshops.
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It works fine unless weight is accidentally applied to the front end causing weight on the rear to be accidentally displaced; then wonky really comes into play. :giggles Of course, mishaps rarely happen in home workshops.
Well, that be why I strapped it down. :D
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Well, that be why I strapped it down. :D
I missed that part in your illustration. :giggles
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The belly pan is held on by 6mm bolts through two rubber grommets near the front, a single bracket in back. Place a flat piece of wood across the grommets and lift with a hydraulic jack. A 2x4x12 inch will do. This way grommets carry enough load to lift the front wheel without damage to the pan. Takes seconds to set-up and quite stable, just allow the centerstand to carry most of the bike weight.
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The two front 6mm bolts screw into a glass reinforced plastic bracket, which is rather flexible. I decided to take the belly pan; 4 bolts, 3 minutes. On top, I discovered that the peeping hole of the water pump had a small green drop at the tip; to be monitored.
Thanks for all the replies.
AlexG
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To Alexg.
In reference to the drop of liquid from the front weep hole,
change the coolant before you do anything else
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NEVER lift from belly pan.
actually, the best way is to just unscrew the two bolts that hold the belly pan on and take it off, then jack off the engine case. pan is simple to remove.
that's what I do. It helps to loosen the rear bracket to get the pan back on. after you do it a few times it just takes a few minutes