MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: szabgab on October 14, 2018, 08:05:42 AM
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Dear all,
I have all these bloody ailments of my bike, all of which are starting to disappears, mostly thanks to you guys and the wealth of information, that is circulating on the forum. As of now my driveshaft is going to be a good one and the bike will not let me on the side of the road with stripped splines, it also idles smoothly, thanks to the multiple efforts, I have taken to get rid of of all the little air leaks I had, ignition is good, contacts are clean, alternator is better, fuel system is cleaner, fuel and vacuum lines are renewed, battery replaced, front wheel sorted, oil drip addressed on the front (but still waiting to be looked at at the rear weep hole). But there is one more nagging issue, that is rearing it's noisy head every single time, I ride the bike, and that is a constant high pitched brake squeal at the front. The bike came with a brand new set of blue Brembo pads up front and it was squealing, when I bought it. The PO said, the mechanic advised him to drive the bike for an extended period of some hundreds of miles and the noise will go away. Well it did not. Since that time I have taken the calipers off, cleaned and sanded the pins, spring, inside of the calipers, even though the pistons inside their rubber protectors looked spotless, I have removed them and sanded them with 1000 grit + WD40, and put some fresh DOT4 brake fluid on them upon reassembly, this always helped with my other bikes in the past. Also put some copper paste on the back of the pads and the pins. Everything helps for 5-10 miles, than the squeal is back with a vengeance. The brakes are not sticky, pistons are not frozen, and the bike is not squealing, once I depress the lever, I let go, squeal is back. Sometimes it eases, but it always bad after a longer period of not using the bike, and seems to be worse on hard right turns. I have spoken to a few mechanics, including the one advising the PO and they all just scratch their heads. Did anybody experience something like this? If s, what helped? My rear brakes are an issue too, but first please help me with this annoyance of the highest dgree.
Thank you!
Gabriel
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Considering the pads came with your moto and the previous owner didn't seem to care much about maintaining the moto correctly, I would replace the pads with good quality pads I was certain were the correct pads for the moto—preferably organic-type pads like these (https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/product/ebc-brake-pads-fa18-). Use a thin film of copper anti-seize or brake lubricant on the backs of them like you did on the ones you have.
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Considering the pads came with your moto and the previous owner didn't seem to care much about maintaining the moto correctly, I would replace the pads with good quality pads I was certain were the correct pads for the moto—preferably organic-type pads like these (https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/product/ebc-brake-pads-fa18-). Use a thin film of copper anti-seize or brake lubricant on the backs of them like you did on the ones you have.
Latich, thanks for your reply. In this instance the pads are truly good, Brembo blue pads are the bees knees according to Brembo and BMW respectively, they are ceramic pads, again highly recommended. I do not trust the PO with anything anymore, so I measured the pads, and they are brand sparking new, not a millimeter worn, but again, there is nothing else I can try, apart from replacing the pads, is there?
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I've got nothing more for you. If the discs are within spec, and all other components are in good condition as you have described, I'd verify the part number is correct for your bike model's year of manufacture and for the pad's location. If all of that lines up, I'd still replace them with organic pads. :giggles
Other than that, find denser earplugs. To adapt a precept from the Harley Riders Bible, "Loud brakes save lives."
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But Laitch, Harley drivers never use their brakes, they always have to lay 'er down. Maybe the precept you meant to quote was "loud screeching noises saves lives."
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Maybe the precept you meant to quote was "loud screeching noises saves lives."
Yep. I always have trouble using that bible's concordance.
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Try this stuff (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88?tag=popularmechanics_auto-append-20&ascsubtag=[artid|10060.a.3092[src|[ch|) and let us know how well it works. It adheres the pad plate to the piston. It has not yet been endorsed by Taylor Swift.
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They should be using that stuff on Kanye West.
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Try this stuff (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88?tag=popularmechanics_auto-append-20&ascsubtag=[artid|10060.a.3092[src|[ch|) and let us know how well it works. It adheres the pad plate to the piston. It has not yet been endorsed by Taylor Swift.
I was eyeing up these kind of products, but you guys being American have got access to all these goodies, proper spline lube, amazon with great prices and so on, whilst here I'm stuck with things, that are just about similar to the right stuff. ANyway, if I'm not mistaken, 3M has got some sticky pads, that do basically the same, glue the pads to the pistons.
Now to the rear brake issue, it was the only brake, that was functioning great, when I bought the bike. Ever since I have removed the final drive for lubing/inspection it is not good at all, braking is just so-so (before it was easy to lock the wheel, now I need to push the pedal down rather forcefully to achieve something similar), the rotor is overheating, and my fuel consumption shot up rather significantly, so I would guess, I have brake drag combined with something else. If I press the brake, it does not engage at the same time, but rather one side first, then the other. If I turn the wheel, the pad(s) is (are) touching, but it does not seem to be severe. If I use solely the front brake for city rides, my rear rotor still gets hot, I do not get it. I have undone the caliper a few times and retorqued, just in case I cocked up something there, cleaned the caliper really thoroughly, removing the pistons, cleaning them, etc., but the issue is the same, crap braking, hot rotor, bad fuel consumption. Any ideas? Are there some spacing shims between the rotor and mounting holes, I could have missed (given that the pads do not touch at the same time)? I'm baffled, to say the least...
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Sounds like the rear master cylinder is plugged. There are a couple of small holes within the MC that allow transfer of the hydraulic fluid to the calipers, and provide pressure relief when the pedal is released. One or both of those might be blocked. The blockage seems to be preventing the pads from returning. Either a MC rebuild is in order or pick up one of the cheaper alternatives on Ebay for much cheaper than BMW. Search the forums for suggestions.
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Sounds like the rear master cylinder is plugged. There are a couple of small holes within the MC that allow transfer of the hydraulic fluid to the calipers, and provide pressure relief when the pedal is released. One or both of those might be blocked. The blockage seems to be preventing the pads from returning. Either a MC rebuild is in order or pick up one of the cheaper alternatives on Ebay for much cheaper than BMW. Search the forums for suggestions.
Oh great, some new issue, but how come the issue raising it's head, when I removed the caliper? Although that could be anything I guess, moving the lines and getting some crap inside the mc, whatever.
Anyway, is there a way to clean it, or do I need to replace the mc altogether?
Thanks!
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What I'm suggesting is a theory; I'm not stating for a fact that the MC is plugged. When the systems on the motorcycle are disturbed, there is a chance something can be dislodged or broken given the age of the components in these bikes. however, don't assume that my diagnosis is correct. I'm a long ways away from Budapest and haven't seen the bike in question.
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What I'm suggesting is a theory; I'm not stating for a fact that the MC is plugged. When the systems on the motorcycle are disturbed, there is a chance something can be dislodged or broken given the age of the components in these bikes. however, don't assume that my diagnosis is correct. I'm a long ways away from Budapest and haven't seen the bike in question.
But your suggestion sounds legit, so I might just go ahead, and try to clean the cylinder and piston first to see, if that achieves anything. If not, well, there is the $10 chinese replica route :)
BTW, cleaning stuff in the piston area is worth anything in this situation (obviously if it is a plugged mc)?
Thanks!
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IIRC I read somewhere on this forum that if you adjust the pedal travel too far/tight the master cylinder can't return enough for pistons to release ...
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IIRC I read somewhere on this forum that if you adjust the pedal travel too far/tight the master cylinder can't return enough for pistons to release ...
Ed, that surely would interfere with the operation, but I did not touch the set-screw, and everything is exactly, as it was before (minus the well operating rear brake)
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Ed, that surely would interfere with the operation, but I did not touch the set-screw, and everything is exactly, as it was before (minus the well operating rear brake)
Get a quart of DOT4 brake fluid and bleed the hell out of that caliper.
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I had this problem with Moby II.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlmZH6SKUCc
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Get a quart of DOT4 brake fluid and bleed the hell out of that caliper.
I already tried that, when I removed the pistons from the caliper I had to that anyway, but I might give it another try. Whilst at it, I might go the master cylinder piston cleaning route just to see, if rbm's suggestion works out... Would a piston-bore cleaning sort out the possible mc blockage?
Thanks!
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It sounds really silly, but I had a similar front squeal problem with a bike back in the day. After loosening up the triple clamps and realigning the forks, it mysteriously was exorcised and never returned. It wasn't a terrible noise, just really irritating. Good luck.
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Whilst at it, I might go the master cylinder piston cleaning route just to see, if rbm's suggestion works out... Would a piston-bore cleaning sort out the possible mc blockage?
Both rbm's and natalena's suggestions have merit. Master cylinder pistons can seize in their bores if particles are in the fluid. The fluid passages within the container are easily blocked. The components also can be misaligned. Read all of this thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7738.msg54894.html#msg54894) and look carefully at its remaining photos.
natalena's suggestion is simple to do and given your description of the bike's condition when you bought it—except for the spiffy, high-tech ceramic brake pads that are constantly whining for your attention—the likelihood of something being out of alignment anywhere on this bike is great.
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Rob Fleischer has some suggestions on brake squealing here -> http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/brakes.htm
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overall....how old are the rubber brake lines? they are not lifetime items. they fail internally. result is restricted fluid flow and dragging pads. replace all of the hoses...
front squeal...is there a bevel on the leading and trailing edges of the pads? if not, file one onto all the pads. leading edge in partiular should not be "square" to the rotor.
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I had this problem with Moby II.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlmZH6SKUCc
Did you watch the video? I had a pile of those mouse turds come out of the brake lines on a '91 K100RS. They plugged up the banjo fittings and made the brakes drag. It's a good reason to change to new stainless lines.
The good news is that it appears that the crap doesn't get past the banjo fittings, so there shouldn't be a need to disassemble the calipers or the master cylinder.
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OK, so rear brake is still an issue, but... I hang my head in shame, I had these stupid front calipers off the bike so many times for cleaning, wheel removal and so on, so forth, that the last time, when I did the really thorough cleaning of the pistons etc., I forgot to tighten one caliper. Today I returned to the gig to try to bleed the system once more and the caliper in question had a strange lateral movement, checked the bolts and they were... bloody finger-tight. Imagining, that I have ridden the bike for the last 100-150 miles like that fills me with terror. Anyway, once torqued to spec and taken for a good long test ride of 10-15 miles the squeal is not back. Once I thought, I have it again, but it was a streetcar instead :) So hopefully we can assume, that the pistons were somewhat dirty and really good cleaning + oiling helped, but not tightening the caliper properly resulted in misaligned and always slightly touching pads...
Now to the rear brake - I have done, what Laitch suggested, and pushed through the system a great amount of fluid. I have not seen any air bubbles or debris escaping, but the brake is now operating great, I mean, I can lock again the rear wheel with very little effort. But I am not completely lucky, as the pads are still touching and the rotor gets rather hot. I have not done, what Chris Harris and Gryphon did as of yet, as all the lines are brand sparking new, changed, when the front pads were changed, the rubber in the hose is still shiny new, banjo bolts too, not a crack in sight. But given, how a shop works, basically doing everything quickly, I might just disassemble the line banjo by banjo and see, if there was not any crud left in the MC or reservoir, that has got sucked into the new lines...
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Rob Fleischer has some suggestions on brake squealing here -> http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/brakes.htm
Blimey, this is quite a read. I thought I will get through it quickly before supper in the basement, my wife asked me three times already, if I'm still alive :) Invaluable info in there...
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Did you watch the video? I had a pile of those mouse turds come out of the brake lines on a '91 K100RS. They plugged up the banjo fittings and made the brakes drag. It's a good reason to change to new stainless lines.
The good news is that it appears that the crap doesn't get past the banjo fittings, so there shouldn't be a need to disassemble the calipers or the master cylinder.
I will try this at the rear, fortunately the front seems to be fixed for now...
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It sounds really silly, but I had a similar front squeal problem with a bike back in the day. After loosening up the triple clamps and realigning the forks, it mysteriously was exorcised and never returned. It wasn't a terrible noise, just really irritating. Good luck.
It does not sound silly. I had once used the wrong sequence to button up the front axle and even that resulted in misaligned brakes...
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Oh one more thing.. Worn disc + pads could lead to drag? I think, I might be on the last legs of the rear rotor - pads combo, pads measure 3.88mm (that is still well inside the usable range) disc I don't know, because my digital measures the edge, that is obviously factory standard still :) (I could have used some shims of a known thickness to bridge the shoulder, but I got lazy :) )
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OK, so I have gone back and has taken the rear brake to the tiniest bits, I could. Drained all the fluid, cleaned the reservoir, mc, piston, there are no banjo bolts on the tubes, but I have taken the connections apart and stared through the lines, cleaned, if necessary. Popped the caliper pistons with a bike pump and cleaned them again all around, bottom side and all. Also checked the bores, they are fine, but I have cleaned them as much as I could. Put everything back, bled the brakes and it is still dragging slightly. The rear rotor gets hot to the touch ridden the bike, warmer than the fronts. Fuel light came on today at 230 kilometers and I know from experience, tomorrow it will swallow around 16 litres of petrol, so fuel consumption is ultra-shite. I have never checked rotor temperatures before this issue, so I do not have a benchmark and I use my rear brakes quite a lot through city traffic, so that might be normal, who knows? Is there anything else I could try? I also measured the pads and rotor, pads are 3.88mm, rotor is at 4.2, so the PO was actually completely wrong about the rear worn beyond limit, actually it is all very good for now.... And yes, I have torqued everything down properly this time :D
Thanks!
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The rear rotor gets hot to the touch ridden the bike, warmer than the fronts. Fuel light came on today at 230 kilometers and I know from experience, tomorrow it will swallow around 16 litres of petrol, so fuel consumption is ultra-shite. I have never checked rotor temperatures before this issue, so I do not have a benchmark and I use my rear brakes quite a lot through city traffic, so that might be normal, who knows? Is there anything else I could try?
Try not touching the rear rotor.
If the rear master cylinder piston is operating smoothly, then there's not much left to check except rotor runout to determine if the rotor is warped, or cleaning the rotor's surfaces with an abrasive pad to eliminate embedded dirt. If the wheel can be spun to rotate a couple of times when the moto is on the center stand and in neutral, if it were my moto I'd move on instead of obsessing about the temperature of the rotor. I'd be using the front brakes more, too.
If you haven't checked the spark plug gaps, checked the condition of the air filter, checked the throttle body rubbers and crankcase vent for leaks, checked and adjusted the valve clearances, then followed with a throttle body balance and throttle position sensor adjustment, your complaining about mileage is premature. If you've done all that then do leak-down and compression tests. They're fun. :giggles
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If you haven't checked the spark plug gaps, checked the condition of the air filter, checked the throttle body rubbers and crankcase vent for leaks, checked and adjusted the valve clearances, then followed with a throttle body balance and throttle position sensor adjustment, your complaining about mileage is premature. If you've done all that then do leak-down and compression tests. They're fun. :giggles
From the list I have done nearly everything already, but obviously there is some much else to do (like the compression and leakdown tests). The mileage dropped suddenly, after I have taken the FD off and started to have rear brake issues, hence I think, they are somewhat related. But again, it could be anything, as I was doing other stuff at the same time, bike could be running too rich, now that I don't have air leaks (the bike smells like unburnt gasoline and if I press the starter button on a warmed up bike the revs do nothing, or drop slightly)... Obsessing about pitty little things is unfortunately my forte, I might have a slight OCD not diagnosed as of yet :))
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So, have you confirmed that there is no drag due to the rear calliper. Try following Laitch's suggested test - spin the rear wheel manually while the bike is on the centre stand and the transmission in neutral, with the calliper attached to the bike. Observe the behaviour of the wheel, making sure that it spins somewhat freely. Obviously the transmission and driveline will offer some drag and prevent the rear wheel from making multiple revolutions. But the behaviour should suggest that nothing is hindering the rotation of the wheel. Then try the same test but with the calliper removed. See if there is a marked difference. It will point to either a problem with the brake calliper - rotor, or it might start to point to issues with the FD or driveline.
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So, have you confirmed that there is no drag due to the rear calliper. Try following Laitch's suggested test - spin the rear wheel manually while the bike is on the centre stand and the transmission in neutral, with the calliper attached to the bike. Observe the behaviour of the wheel, making sure that it spins somewhat freely. Obviously the transmission and driveline will offer some drag and prevent the rear wheel from making multiple revolutions. But the behaviour should suggest that nothing is hindering the rotation of the wheel. Then try the same test but with the calliper removed. See if there is a marked difference. It will point to either a problem with the brake calliper - rotor, or it might start to point to issues with the FD or driveline.
Yes it does spin, even if with a slight drag. This I would consider to be a job well done, if not for the piping hot rotor and bad fuel consumption. Next time I will try to ride without ANY rear brake (will be tricky, as my bike travels in the city nearly exclusively) and see if it heats up at all...
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Most of your braking should be done with the front brake. Day to day riding I very rarely use the rear I mainly use the rear for extra braking in emergency stops.
Regards Martin.
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. . .if not for the piping hot rotor and bad fuel consumption.
What temperature is piping hot? That description is useless. What has been the fuel consumption of the moto previously and exactly when did it change?
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Most of your braking should be done with the front brake. Day to day riding I very rarely use the rear I mainly use the rear for extra braking in emergency stops.
Regards Martin.
I know, and that is, how I do it outside the metropolis. But at near zero speeds, when I navigate between lanes, cars, trucks, buses, the lot, the rear brake is invaluable, as it stabilises the bike together with fine clutch and throttle control to the point, I don't need to put my feet down, unless completely stationary. I went to a police driving course, that's what they do and it is a very useful technique. Obviously not, if you burn up your brakes though :)
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What temperature is piping hot? That description is useless. What has been the fuel consumption of the moto previously and exactly when did it change?
Oh yes, this is just not a very useful description, sorry. I mean you can not touch the rotor, as it will burn your fingers and it cracks, as it is cooling down, so it must be very hot, just like the engine (that cracks as cools in a similar fashion). I might try to sand the disc, as suggested, also it is getting a touch better now, as the wheel spins a tiny amount better in neutral, so probably the pads need to re-embed themselves, after being moved around (mind you, in the last week I have removed them probably 4 or 5 times and I'm not sure, if the sides weren't mixed up during those times)?
My consumption was around 5litres to 100km (47 US MPG), now it is more like 6.6-7 litres (33.5 US MPG) and it changed, when I have removed the FD to check the condition of my driveshaft... Obviously I do not fuel up daily, more like weekly, and during that time I sorted out my air leaks, cleaned the MAF (with MAF cleaner from a distance, not touching the sensor). This is also the time, since my bike "smells" rich, but I did not pull the plugs to see, what's what as yet. It is a distant possibility, that somebody fooled around with the air bypass as the bike was running lean due to air leaks and now it is just too rich, but I'm speculating only without seeing carbon building up anywhere...
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Burn your fingers isn't a better description. Is the finger of a brick mason being used or that of a concert pianist? Fat finger or slim? How long does it take the skin to pass through the three degrees of burn severity? :giggles
If the air filter is clean, if the crankcase breather isn't leaking, if the throttle body rubber manifolds aren't leaking, if the coolant temperature sensor is reading to specification, if the electrical connector to the volume air flow sensor is clean and still tightly connected—something you should check because you had disassembled to access it, if all the air intake tubes are correctly connected, if the spark plug electrodes are in good condition and their gaps within specification, if the valve clearances are set to specification, then balance the throttle bodies and correctly set the throttle position sensor.
It needs to be done sometime and there's no time like the present.
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Yes it does spin, even if with a slight drag. This I would consider to be a job well done, if not for the piping hot rotor and bad fuel consumption. Next time I will try to ride without ANY rear brake (will be tricky, as my bike travels in the city nearly exclusively) and see if it heats up at all...
My intention for this test was for you to perform it in the garage, while the bike is on the centrestand and at a standstill. You've done the first part of the test which should give you a good idea of the "normal" resistance to spinning the wheel. Take off the rear callipers and tie it to the frame. Now the brake rotor cannot be hindered by the pads or other brake parts. Spin the wheel again. Was it easier this time, much easier? Was it as hard to spin? Were there any telltale noises from the driveline that might suggest parts interfering? Answers to these questions will lead you to the problem.
It's not necessary to put your safety at risk to complete these basic diagnosis tests.
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This thread, and the attached video, inspired me to go riding today for the express purpose of palpating the rear rotor on my moto. As it turned out, I rode through a 40º rain shower to Montpelier where I was greeted at the Down Home Cafe with a hot cup of coffee and a piece of pumpkin pie with a dollop of whipped cream.
Maybe tomorrow I'll remember to touch the rear rotor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEL9diENZY0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEL9diENZY0)
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My intention for this test was for you to perform it in the garage, while the bike is on the centrestand and at a standstill. You've done the first part of the test which should give you a good idea of the "normal" resistance to spinning the wheel. Take off the rear callipers and tie it to the frame. Now the brake rotor cannot be hindered by the pads or other brake parts. Spin the wheel again. Was it easier this time, much easier? Was it as hard to spin? Were there any telltale noises from the driveline that might suggest parts interfering? Answers to these questions will lead you to the problem.
It's not necessary to put your safety at risk to complete these basic diagnosis tests.
Rbm, thank you for clarification. I have done that, just forgot to mention it in my comment, without the caliper the wheel spins better, not forever obviously, as the driveline is in the way. There are no undue noises whilst doing that. I have taken the bike for a ride outside town where I can safely moto around without a rear brake, and the rotor without ANY braking whatsoever got lukewarm. given, that the outside temp was in the low 20 C's, it should have been stone cold, so I still do have drag. I will wait a tad, like a tankful, if the situation is getting better and if the pads embed themselves a bit more. If not, I will take the mc apart once again to make sure, I have cleaned it as spotless, as possible...
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From the list I have done nearly everything already, but obviously there is some much else to do (like the compression and leakdown tests).
Meanwhile, back at the excessive fuel consumption issue—have you checked the electrical connection on the air flow sensor in the air box to be certain it is tight? Have you balanced the throttle bodies?
Is the rear drive housing uncomfortably hot after your rides?
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This thread, and the attached video, inspired me to go riding today for the express purpose of palpating the rear rotor on my moto. As it turned out, I rode through a 40º rain shower to Montpelier where I was greeted at the Down Home Cafe with a hot cup of coffee and a piece of pumpkin pie with a dollop of whipped cream.
Maybe tomorrow I'll remember to touch the rear rotor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEL9diENZY0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEL9diENZY0)
What a dedication :) Thanks for even trying, driving rain cools off parts anyway, so it is better, you spent the time warming up with a cake...
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Meanwhile, back at the excessive fuel consumption issue—have you checked the electrical connection on the air flow sensor in the air box to be certain it is tight? Have you balanced the throttle bodies?
Is the rear drive housing uncomfortably hot after your rides?
Good point, I have never checked the housing itself, will do so next time. The electrical connection is secure, but I will dig deep soon again, as I have bought an un-cracked air housing elbow from Clayton, that will go in instead of the glued one, I have on now (it is not leaking anymore, but it is better to get one, that's pristine). I would love to have the bodies balanced as that is the only thing, I can not do myself, as I don't have a balancer, once I replaced the elbow, I will take the bike in somewhere for that...
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I would love to have the bodies balanced as that is the only thing, I can not do myself, as I don't have a balancer,
Don't waste love on inanimate objects and processes. :oldguy:
You seem to be obsessive enough that you could successfully make one of the devices in this thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7262.0), then get the job done without further waffling. There are balancing instructions on this site, too.
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Don't waste love on inanimate objects and processes. :oldguy:
You seem to be obsessive enough that you could successfully make one of the devices in this thread (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=7262.0), then get the job done without further waffling. There are balancing instructions on this site, too.
Wow, this is great. I have read instructions on pipe type manometers, but they were way too sensitive and it was easy to suck fluid in, the bottle version looks to be a lot more idiot friendly (e.g. made for me). I have already bought the 1/4" hose and will drink up all those fancy bottles of juice, that come in glass rather than plastic :)
Heat wise - the FD is not getting too warm, actually you can just leave your hand on the housing even after a longish ride of 20+ miles. The rear brake is dragging, but it starting to be unnoticeable, I'm barely able to hear it anymore if I spin the wheel manually and it is not hindering the rear wheel much anymore. Being anal I might revisit the MC, but I replaced to fuel pump the other day and my focus is on that too, as the new found LOUD hissing is driving me nuts :) So many things to keep me entertained with this bike.
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Being anal I . . .
I'm biceptual. It's cleaner. I consider it one of my strengths.
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Heat wise - the FD is not getting too warm, actually you can just leave your hand on the housing even after a longish ride of 20+ miles.
I recommended that check because bearing failure within the final drive can generate heat, so good luck is still in your corner.
I rode for half an hour at eighty miles an hour in 31ºF temperature to have a slice of zucchini bread at the end of the trail. When I parked, I laid my hand on the rear rotor. It wasn't quite as warm as a baby bunny. Hope that helps!
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I recommended that check because bearing failure within the final drive can generate heat, so good luck is still in your corner.
I rode for half an hour at eighty miles an hour in 31ºF temperature to have a slice of zucchini bread at the end of the trail. When I parked, I laid my hand on the rear rotor. It wasn't quite as warm as a baby bunny. Hope that helps!
I checked my final drive the other day after a quick ride to coffee with the boys. It was about the same temperature as a bowl of chili after it's been cooling for five minutes.
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And no, Laitch, I didn't taste it to see if it was as spicy.
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I recommended that check because bearing failure within the final drive can generate heat, so good luck is still in your corner.
I rode for half an hour at eighty miles an hour in 31ºF temperature to have a slice of zucchini bread at the end of the trail. When I parked, I laid my hand on the rear rotor. It wasn't quite as warm as a baby bunny. Hope that helps!
Wait, wait, a cooked baby bunny or just a plain, living one? :)
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I checked my final drive the other day after a quick ride to coffee with the boys. It was about the same temperature as a bowl of chili after it's been cooling for five minutes.
Brilliant, so at least I know, the FD should be OK (especially that I have opted for the DS only from rcgreaves, as finances are crap at the moment)
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Try this
Use a magic marker
Put a line across the rotor as shown
Spin the wheel by hand
See how it wears
Then again take it for a ride
See how it wears
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I also have a heat gun if you want to compare how
hot certain parts of your bike gets. Of course, you
would have too have one also.
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Try this
Use a magic marker
Put a line across the rotor as shown
Spin the wheel by hand
See how it wears
Then again take it for a ride
See how it wears
Yes, a heat gun would be brill for stuff like this or to check, how hot the different cylinders get.
The sharpie test is for what exactly? To see an uneven wear, if there is any?
Thank you,
Gabriel
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Yes, to see uneven wear.
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Yes, to see uneven wear.
Great stuff, I will try that. Especially that the wheel starts to bind a bit more again, so probably there was some minuscule debris left behind somehow and now it is making it's way back to the mc (although I could have sweared, everything is pristine, once finished)... The front squeal is back occasionally too, so I guess it is like Laitch said, those spiffy pads are whining for my attention :)
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You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking
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Running a sharpie track in the middle of the disc full circumference might be more useful. It might show up any high spots. BMW originally supplied different compounds for front and rear brakes. I believe this was to counter the chance of lock up. I haven't tried it recently but I used to be able to lock up the rears.
Regards Martin.
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You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking
The rear is easy to lock up on mine at the moment. So is the front, but I have done it only once for a millisecond and that was just about enough as an experience :)
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You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes.
What do you mean by "lock up?" Under what conditions have you tried to lock them up? What happens when you try? My moto's rear tire will skid or bounce with enough lever pressure, depending upon the road surface and speed.
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What do you mean by "lock up?" Under what conditions have you tried to lock them up? What happens when you try? My moto's rear tire will skid or bounce with enough lever pressure, depending upon the road surface and speed.
I suppose skid is a better description, in my reading wheel locks, when it stops spinning and skids as long as I have the pedal pushed down the same forceful way (or the bike itself stops, hopefully not on it's side :) )
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Running a sharpie track in the middle of the disc full circumference might be more useful. It might show up any high spots. BMW originally supplied different compounds for front and rear brakes. I believe this was to counter the chance of lock up. I haven't tried it recently but I used to be able to lock up the rears.
Regards Martin.
OK, I did this and the one across the rotor, basically an elongated cross. The inside pad (that is closer to the wheel) is the one, that is dragging, the outside did not touch the sharpie marks. Also from the crosshatch marks I can see, that the guilty pad is dragging on the bottom part of the rotor (nearer the bolts, if you were) and not on the top. Any idea on this? The pad is straight, not worn sideways
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Hi
When you replaced the rear wheel, did you remember to install the spacer between the rear disc and wheel?
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Hi
When you replaced the rear wheel, did you remember to install the spacer between the rear disc and wheel?
Hi Gabriel, yes, the spacer is installed
, although that should not affect the position of the rotor to the pads...
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Catching up on the Hungarian K-escapades....Happy New Year my friend.
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Catching up on the Hungarian K-escapades....Happy New Year my friend.
Oh, there are no escapades at the moment, poor bike is sitting outside in the cold and is waiting for it's turn to be used again :)
Clayton, thanks for the wishes, Happy New Year and a belated merry Christmas to you too and to all our fellow motobrickers!
Gab
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Late to this party, but remember my experience with ceramic pads and they are hard and prone to squeal.
Personally I prefer softer pads.
Did you disassemble your rear master ?
Did you try to poke a small hole inside to make sure is unblocked as RBM suggested ?
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Late to this party, but remember my experience with ceramic pads and they are hard and prone to squeal.
Personally I prefer softer pads.
Did you disassemble your rear master ?
Did you try to poke a small hole inside to make sure is unblocked as RBM suggested ?
Hi, don't worry, my brakes are playing up still, I just moved on to other things for now.
I am not sure, if ceramic pads in general, blue Brembos or my set in particular is really bad at stopping the bike whilst wet, but these are. Actually I have to lean on the front lever pretty hard for it to stop the bike the same way, as a two-finger operation would, whilst dry. I have just noticed with the dried on salty road grime on the rotors, that right side caliper works unevenly, as the outside of the rotor is nice and shiny, the inside is shiny in the central part, but fully dull and dirty on the outside parts, where the pads should have cleaned them.
Rear MC wise - I have cleaned the cylinder as well as I could poking things through holes and checking for cleanliness, but I must have done a bad job, as the rear brake is just as sticky, as it was before...
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You said that you can lock up the rear brakes. I think that that’s very unusual for these bikes, but I may be wrong. I know that I cannot do that with my bike, the rear brakes. Are there more people out here that can lock up the rear brakes. I’ve read that they are very weak in terms of breaking
if you CAN'T lock up the front or rear brakes you have a problem....