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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: JPaganel on September 20, 2018, 11:23:12 PM
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So, the clutch on my R got wonky. That is neither a small nor a cheap repair, so I turned my attention to the K languishing in the garage.
It has bad electrics. Fuel pump wires shocked me, but only when I managed to actually turn on the ignition.
The ignition switch is apart and soaking in degreaser. It was full of what looks like normal axle grease that hardened like cosmoline. Someone has been in it and one of the clips holding it to the rubber pad is busted, but I think it will be fine.
When I looked at the pump wires, I realized that they had broken insulation, but the wires were actually whole. So, I got my handy-dandy Weatherpak connector tool, popped the pins, and put heatshrink wherever there was bare wire sticking out. Result is in the attached picture. Hopefully, that will keep 'er from farting in church.
Also, I was pleasantly surprised that the headlight cover I have is ABS. I know how to work that stuff pretty well. I glued the cracks and duct taped it, it's drying.
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That's some nice clean work for such short fiddly wires, "dohn 'cha know".
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That's some nice clean work for such short fiddly wires, "dohn 'cha know".
Being able to cleanly disassemble and reassemble the connector makes a lot of difference. That tool is worth it's weight in gold.
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So... Battery is toast.
Getting it out was... uncomfortable. Bolts are corroded. At least, there was enough room for vise-grips.
Ordered some stainless Allen bolts to replace them. M6x80, not that common of a size.
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More electrical fun - brake light warning came on, and rear brake doesn't turn on the signal.
One of the wires broke off the little black connector in the picture.
Not sure what I'm gonna do about that yet...
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Being able to cleanly disassemble and reassemble the connector makes a lot of difference. That tool is worth it's weight in gold.
Lets see a pic of the tool or where it can be obtained....
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greetings...
i dont know what he is using... butts this kit is a must have for discerning brickers... (https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Weather-Pack-WP-1505-Crimp/dp/B007QVXT2C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1538401074&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=weatherpack+connector+tool&psc=1)
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Lets see a pic of the tool or where it can be obtained....
The tool is the yellow screwdriver-looking thing in the lower right hand corner of Johnny's picture.
You can get them a few different places, I like these guys: https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=88
They are across the river from me, in Johnny's neck of the woods.
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Lets see a pic of the tool or where it can be obtained....
It's an AMP circular connector extractor. Available from Digikey (https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/305183/A1329-ND/15640), Mouser (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/305183?qs=sGAEpiMZZMufdu5QM0tCwU1j0QzyUlFq), and other online electronics supply outlets.
(https://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco%20Amp%20Photos/305183.jpg)
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Fixeded the rear brake connector. Pulled the pin and soldered the wire to it.
Electrical funsies continue:
* Looks like I have a fried bulb in the lower left corner of the cluster.
* Blinkers are s=l=o=o=w.
* GPI is toast. Shows nothing but some murk. Neutral light works fine, so I think it's just the LCD or the board that's gone.
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This is what the gear indicator looks like.
I think it's safe to say LCD is shot.
I take it the only fix is a good used board?
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I take it the only fix is a good used board?
That's not the only fix. This thread has ideas (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=10566.0) and there might even be some production going on out there somewhere.
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That's not the only fix. This thread has ideas (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=10566.0) and there might even be some production going on out there somewhere.
Nifty.
It's not really all THAT important, but would be cool to have it working.
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Have you checked the Transmission Gear Position switch?
The procedure to check it is not all that difficult. The switch 4 pin connctor is located on the right side of the bike.
The procedure is listed on this site, look for: Transmission Gear Position Switch Troubleshooting ~ author brian curry.pdf
I had the same proble, no Neutral light, no Gear Position indication. Bike would only start withn the clutch pulled in. Checked the switch found it to be faulty. Gonna replace it with a TGPS from a parts bike that checks OK.
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That's not the only fix. This thread has ideas (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=10566.0) and there might even be some production going on out there somewhere.
I've prototyped a LED replacement for the LCD on the gear indicator (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10929.msg94950.html#msg94950). My impediment to moving forward right now is prototyping the mounting hardware but I don't have access to a 3D printer to try out designs. If you'd like to experiment with this LED replacement board, I can build you one for a reasonable cost.
Try CNRED's advice first. If the switch is faulty, the display will try to indicate "7" and that results in a blank display. One test is to disconnect the TGPI switch at its connector just under the right battery cover. Then take a piece of wire and short Brown to any of the Yellow wires on the harness side of the connector. If the display is good, it will indicate a "1", "2" or "4" when you run this test.
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Have you checked the Transmission Gear Position switch?
The procedure to check it is not all that difficult. The switch 4 pin connctor is located on the right side of the bike.
The procedure is listed on this site, look for: Transmission Gear Position Switch Troubleshooting ~ author brian curry.pdf
I had the same proble, no Neutral light, no Gear Position indication. Bike would only start withn the clutch pulled in. Checked the switch found it to be faulty. Gonna replace it with a TGPS from a parts bike that checks OK.
I haven't checked the switch. However, I have no issues with starting with clutch let out, and the neutral light works perfectly.
I've prototyped a LED replacement for the LCD on the gear indicator (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10929.msg94950.html#msg94950). My impediment to moving forward right now is prototyping the mounting hardware but I don't have access to a 3D printer to try out designs. If you'd like to experiment with this LED replacement board, I can build you one for a reasonable cost.
Thanks. I will give that a think.
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I haven't checked the switch. However, I have no issues with starting with clutch let out, and the neutral light works perfectly.
Ok, it's the LCD display then. If the neutral light works perfectly, then the TGPI switch is also fully operational as is the TGPI board in the OEM cluster.
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Ok, it's the LCD display then. If the neutral light works perfectly, then the TGPI switch is also fully operational as is the TGPI board in the OEM cluster.
Yeah, I am pretty sure the crystal leaked. It has the characteristic "floaters".