Post by: oneplustwo on April 29, 2018, 01:04:41 PM
First post here! I just picked up a K75 that I'm planning to modify into something minimalistic. Not sure it will be a cafe racer per se, but in that direction anyway. I've attached a few pics so you can see the general condition.
It's not running at the moment although it was when it was put away a couple years ago. It has about 40K miles on it and seems to be in pretty good shape. It might just need a fresh battery and that's it, but I haven't taken any steps yet as I wanted to get this community's input first.
So... here are my questions.
1. Any recommendations for the smallest battery I can get away with? Since I'm trying to be minimalist and may relocate, I'd like the smallest one I can get that will still do a good job of firing her up.
2. Beyond the following, any must do items?
- Change oil
- Change coolant
- Lube splines
- Replace brake fluid
3. Anything to add in the "if needed" category below?
- Injectors (perhaps move to 4 hole version). The bike doesn't have a lot of milage but for age and for how long it's sat, perhaps I'll need new ones?
- Fork oil
- Spark plugs and wires
- Shims for valves
- Radiator hoses and other rubber lines
4. Is there a single go-to source for K75 parts? Or is it a matter of google searching your way to what you need?
Thanks in advance for any input!
Post by: moto949 on May 04, 2018, 02:22:56 PM
I got my own first k75S about three years ago and I've learned a lot.
---Yes, get the valves set before you do any tuning.
---Check all rubber hoses for leaks and dry rot - better yet, replace them all if possible. The famous S hose, especially. I should've replaced the rubber manifolds under the throttle bodies (because the idle changed when I sprayed starter fluid on them - have a fire extinguisher ready trying this leak test!) but I got cheap and lazy and just sprayed them with Permatex rubber anti-leak spray - leak problem solved.
---Make sure the plugs and wires are correct. Stock wires are resistor. Stock plugs are NOT (no 'R' in their code). Don't use resistor plugs with resistor wires. Beemer Boneyard will sell you the correct pairing.
---Feel lucky if your inner gas tank isn't corroded. The metal brackets and fuel gauge stuff rusts and causes a real situation. Clean the tank with vinegar and seal it with fuel tank sealer because these tanks are known to get pin hole leaks even though they're alloy. If needed, Ebay fuel pumps work well for under $40 but make sure they include the fuel resistant rubber pump holder - don't use something like electric tape or it'll be eaten by the fuel. Replace all fuell hoses and clamps.
---I use the four hole injectors and have tried them back to back with freshly cleaned (Mr. Injector) stock pieces. The 4 pins are better - quicker, better response, better mileage. But they raised my idle to 1300rpm and I can't get it lower - no biggie.
---Learn the "lean drop" method of fine tuning the injection by turning the allen in the little hole plugged up atop the air box (lift the tank and slide it back a bit - the plug is in the front right top of the airbox).
---Get the throttles sync'ed (I use the Motion Pro tool) .
---NEVER turn those screws on the injection linkage that have dabs of blue paint.
---I advanced the ignition to what I guess was a couple degrees ( I loosened the advance screws under the lower engine's front panel, turned the housing a bit, rode it and repeated sequence up to the point it pinged, then backed it off. DO NOT let your motor ping doing this - serious damage! Done right, this is a solid performance improvement.
--- I just put Engine Ice in my K1 - works good so far. Whatever coolant you use, make sure it's compatible with your bike.
--- Spline lubing is the biggest maintenance topic around here. Do it right, please. If your downshifts are sticky, that's one sign the complicated front splines need lubing, but they might need it anyway and last about 20k miles. The back ones are relatively easy and should be done with every tire change. Read up on this!
---Brake fluid - use DOT 4 only.
---I've read up on the oils and have concluded; Mobil 1 for the motor is fine, and any other more expensive oil will give no noticeable improvement. Gearbox oil is another matter; I used Royal Purple synthetic 75w-90 in my K75 and it improved whatever the previous owner's dealer used - better shifting for sure. But in my newly acquired K1, I just switched to Liqui Moly 75w-140 - even better! The K75 gets moly next. In the final drive I read it's best not to use synthetics, just go with o.e.m. recommendations. And NEVER use any moly stuff in the motor - it will screw up your starter sprag because it's so slippery. You'll be left without a starter and lots of trouble getting the moly out again.
--- Fork oil - first, make sure you know what fork you have. Earlier K75 forks take less oil. When I first got my K75, the front was bouncing and diving way too much. I drained the oil and carefully measured what came out of each leg. The P.O.'s dealer put in the exact correct amount... but for the EARLIER bikes, not my '93! BTW, I refilled them correctly with 7wt (stock is 5wt) , and it was better than before because of the level, but it kinda felt like it was 'choking' as if the rebound and compression circuits couldn't handle the thicker oil - and I'm 225 lbs. Next change I'm using 5wt. If I need to tame any fork dive, I'll add oil a tablespoon at a time (as told to me by a renowned suspension expert).
---If you're looking for a lightweight battery and you want to go with lithium (two pounds or less), be very careful. Do research. I used one in my Suzuki racebike and if it wasn't almost fully charge during down time, it drained to nothing and never came back. Don't believe the claims about them coming back from only one volt, just google lithium complaints. However... Battery Tender company, which sold an earlier lithium battery which they've since halted, has on their website a new battery about to be announced as I write this. I'm watching for it 'cause my K1 needs to drop a few pounds and I trust them more than others.
Good Luck!
Post by: Chaos on May 04, 2018, 02:49:41 PM
Post by: stokester on May 04, 2018, 04:20:20 PM
As one who has replaced two clutch cables on the road: check, clean and lube the clutch lever end of the cable. If there is any sign of stress on the strands, replace it.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 04, 2018, 05:58:43 PM
I got a bit done on the bike yesterday.
Here are some photos.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/947/40080595590_868c5ff222_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/967/41887824081_0f70d41fbf_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/958/41844940282_7f431fefa8_z.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 04, 2018, 07:42:16 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 04, 2018, 11:53:30 PM
I'll be spending more time stripping the bike down tonight. I still can't figure out how to get the MAF cable disconnected so that might be the one task for today.
On the wiring, I'm planning on either an m.unit or BEP 3.0 or similar. Also, I'm planning to change the controls. Any general advice to consider as I continue tearing down the wiring to bare frame?
Post by: oneplustwo on May 05, 2018, 03:03:35 AM
First the questions.
1. Is this the dreaded S-hose that goes bad? Mine basically fell apart with a slight tug. It goes from the air box to the crank case. I think I've seen others just put a small cone filter on the end of it.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/41857445582_fabd673e3c_z.jpg)
2. Here are photos of the splines. Looks rusty and I would bet they've never been lubed. The bike has 40K miles on it and they don't look terrible. I would just lube and go. Agree?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/963/41183465024_739b8845cd_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/979/41183464324_ee7515f785_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/948/40093138160_18efef2723_z.jpg)
3. Should I replace this boot? It looks ok and I don't know that it's a critical piece.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/826/41857444812_e327a32720_z.jpg)
4. Is the drive shaft supposed to come out of the transmission on it's own? After I took off the swing arm, I couldn't get the drive shaft to release from the tranny. Not sure if there's a retainer on the end or something? My next step is to take the tranny off the engine so I guess I'll see once I get there. But thought some insight would be helpful.
5. I can't figure out how to get the clamps off the connectors from the intake manifold to the air box. I was going to mess around with them with pliers but I didn't want to damage them. Although I guess they are easily replaced with standard hose clamps. Any advice would be welcome.
6. Similarly, I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel rail off the injectors. Do I just pull hard? I was afraid of breaking an injector. Although I might replace those anyway too.
7. Does it matter which radiator hose kit I get? I saw some silicone ones on eBay for $36 but they don't have black. I saw some from the UK but they were super pricey. Didn't see any on beemerboneyard.com. Any other sources to check?
And here are just a few in process shots:
The two halves separated! There were more wires and cables tying the two together than I had thought.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/828/28030945288_ec9f20440c_z.jpg)
I may go from this elbow to the MAF and then a cone filter. But I'm also toying with the idea of fabricating some individual runners to the MAF like boxermann did. Might be beyond my skill set but I love the look.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/867/41001271335_d22171ab30_z.jpg)
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on May 05, 2018, 07:50:33 AM
Post by: moto949 on May 05, 2018, 10:35:56 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 06, 2018, 12:59:24 AM
4. Is the drive shaft supposed to come out of the transmission on it's own? After I took off the swing arm, I couldn't get the drive shaft to release from the tranny. Not sure if there's a retainer on the end or something? My next step is to take the tranny off the engine so I guess I'll see once I get there. But thought some insight would be helpful. (I found the answer to this but still haven't been successful. My channel lock grip needs work I guess. I will eat some wheaties and try again. Or I might need to buy a pair of vice grips that will fit over the drive shaft.)
5. I can't figure out how to get the clamps off the connectors from the intake manifold to the air box. I was going to mess around with them with pliers but I didn't want to damage them. Although I guess they are easily replaced with standard hose clamps. Any advice would be welcome. (Also found the answer to this... those clamps are disposable!? Follow up question though... it it ok to just replace with standard worm gear hose clamps?)
6. Similarly, I couldn't figure out how to get the fuel rail off the injectors. Do I just pull hard? I was afraid of breaking an injector. Although I might replace those anyway too. (Struggling with this one. Afraid of breaking one off in the head. But slow and steady wins the race!)
7. Does it matter which radiator hose kit I get? I saw some silicone ones on eBay for $36 but they don't have black. I saw some from the UK but they were super pricey. Didn't see any on beemerboneyard.com. Any other sources to check?
Post by: rbm on May 06, 2018, 08:01:26 AM
5. No, you can't use standard worm gear clamps available at hardware stores. Purchase some 48mm Suzuki band clamps, part number 09402-48208
6. The injectors will stick to the rail because of the O-rings. Remove the retaining clips and pull the rail away from the engine inline with the injectors.
7. Shouldn't matter which hose kit you get. It's rare that the water hoses go bad anyways (in my experience).
Post by: oneplustwo on May 06, 2018, 01:15:21 PM
Thanks for the heads up on the Suzuki clamps. I'm still debating on whether I can manage to fabricate individual runners directly to the MAF. Regardless, I'll need to find a way to connect the runners to the throttle bodies so those clamps may be necessary anyway.
Will WD-40 or some other solvent help loosen up the injector o-rings from the rail and block? I think I'm going to get new 4 hole injectors anyway but it would be nice not to break anything.
Thanks for the insight on the hoses. Mine look ok actually so based on that plus your input, I can save some money by not replacing those. Plus, they're easy to access so I can always do it later.
Three new questions...
1. I've bit the bullet and ordered the m.unit blue and associated pieces. So there will be some wiring in my future. My wiring harness seems to be in reasonable shape. But is there anything in the wiring that I should be paying close attention to or proactively replace?
2. I'm going to ditch the center stand somehow. I was reading that some have moved to a right side stand to prevent the oil burning issue with the bike leaned over toward the head side. But I didn't know if that was an issue with all K-bikes or only earlier years? Might be fun to fabricate a new one but wanted to weigh the pros/cons in an informed way.
3. What do people do with all the parts they don't use? Are they basically garbage? Or is there demand for things like fairing pieces, the lunchbox gauge assembly, etc.
Also, this is starting to be more of a custom build thread. Would the moderator be able to move to that forum for me?
Thanks all!
Post by: rbm on May 06, 2018, 01:33:54 PM
Yes that boot in picture 3 is critical and should not be compromised, with splits or cracks. I've heard said that if it does have a split then using RTV or similar will seal the crack. I'd look out for a new one personally. That area of the bike gets all the road grime and if that stuff migrates to your seals or splines, the damage is expensive. Better to replace a $40.00 boot.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 07, 2018, 12:23:20 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 09, 2018, 08:38:57 PM
Big vice grips, some rubber sheet, and a whack with a hammer did the trick to remove the drive shaft. Splines look and and the lube was still good. I assume I just whack it back on? I'll lube the splines again (using Belray assembly with molylube solids). I will not lube the u-joint as well based on what my search has revealed. Let me know if that thinking has changed.I also got the air box, fuel rail, and injectors out. They look terrible so I'm glad I bought new ones. I would imagine they can be refurbished just fine, but for the price of the Ebay ones plus the potential "upgrade" to 4-hole means I'll probably just keep them as spares for now.One other question... I can't figure out how to access the allen bolts that hold the throttle bodies in place. It seems the "choke" assembly is in the way and I can't see a way to remove it. Maybe I just need to look harder. Or maybe I'll just leave it on there for now. Any insight?
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/976/27137002337_50d311d759_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/27137002177_730793768a_z.jpg)
Post by: Laitch on May 09, 2018, 09:42:14 PM
I can't figure out . . . Maybe I just need to look harder. Or maybe I'll just leave it on there for now. Any insight?Can you give some insight about why you don't use manuals to help you, or are you using some but need more clarity? Haynes is a good one online. Clymer's you'll likely need to purchase. The BMW manual here is ok but missing some chapters.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 09, 2018, 10:14:43 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 18, 2018, 12:22:05 PM
Am I missing something here? Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.
Post by: Laitch on May 18, 2018, 12:36:29 PM
Am I missing something here? Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.Start at 4:13 on this video to view one way. There are many other techniques for alignment explained on this site.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RybnCX6PlIE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RybnCX6PlIE)
Post by: rbm on May 18, 2018, 01:30:00 PM
I read somewhere that people have used a dry erase marker to center the clutch prior to tightening the 6 bolts around the flywheel. I suppose it just needs to be centered enough to get the shaft through the clutch, correct? Afterwards, the clutch plate just self centers upon pulling and releasing the clutch lever?Doesn't always go that easily. The alignment between the clutch splines and the input shaft has to be perfect otherwise you'll struggle. That means clutch centred and splines perfectly aligned. You'll bee snugging down the clutch pinch bolts enough to prevent the clutch plates from slipping but not so tight as the plates can't move, then align the plates using the centreing tool, then torque the bolts. You can put the gearbox in 5th and fiddle with the output shaft to get that alignment. You might be able to use the gearbox to do final alignment on the clutch plates but that's a lot of weight to support and manhandle into place meanwhile fiddling with the precise alignment.
Am I missing something here? Should be able to get the transmission back on the engine today if so.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 20, 2018, 12:53:09 AM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 22, 2018, 08:51:01 PM
I got the front end disassembled last night. Looks like the forks need some work. One side has zero damping. The other seems to only have damping on rebound. Also, the dust caps (the black rubber things that rest of top of the forks) are cracked. Hoping that they just need to be refilled with oil.
I looked on beemerboneyard and tried google search for the caps but couldn't find any. Anyone have a source?
Otherwise, anything I should be looking for when I get them apart?
Separate question... any thoughts about running without the front fender? Philosophically, I'm trying to do the rebuild in a minimalist way, "adding lightness" so to speak. But I'm not going to ignore practical necessities... so I'm wondering if no fender means debris and damage to the radiator or other such considerations.
Post by: moto949 on May 22, 2018, 09:10:10 PM
Maybe neatly trim down the stock fender to a reasonable yet functional size as a compromise?
Post by: oneplustwo on May 22, 2018, 09:19:45 PM
I may eliminate the side reflectors too. Too maintain visibility, has anyone used "retroreflective" paint? That plus maybe some rim tape or other reflective tape on the forks might do the trick.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 28, 2018, 09:20:47 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 12:41:39 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 02:36:10 PM
Post by: moto949 on June 16, 2018, 04:26:05 PM
Though I'm not an expert on K75 fork internals, I would like to help by repeating the advice I offered when your post started... "make sure you know which forks you have". Not likely, but if they are Showas (which I believe were put on all K75 models starting in 1992) then you have the proper amount of fork oil. If you have the earlier forks, you have wayyyy too much. Your bike is a 1990, yes?
I understand that an "S" stamped into the earlier non-Showa forks stands for "sport" (not Showa) which confuses people. Another point is that earlier forks only had rebound in one leg and only compression in the other. The forks worked together as a system so overall it mattered little to split up their jobs. My guess is you have the earlier forks on your 1990. BTW, back then, K75S forks had different specs to the other K75 models.
I'm not sure how you're gauging the rebound and compression characteristics unless you are riding the bike. Are you just sliding the fork tubes in your hands? Bouncing the bike? Are the fork caps even on when you're doing this? *Remember, if the fork caps are off, you are losing the springing effect as the air inside the fork compresses - that's important. More or less oil in the forks determines this amount of springing, felt during brake dive or hitting heavy dips. Even a tablespoon difference can be felt, so be precise. Now, oil thickness is more apparent to a rider in the mid-stroke of the forks as the oil flows through the circuits responding to stutter bumps, curves, etc.
Anyway, you'll need to do some research to make sure what you've got, first.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 05:28:58 PM
In any case I was judging the damping given the one shock is clearly damped in rebound and the other is not at least relatively. I have both tubes separated from the clamps entirely (with the top caps screwed in) since I was tearing everything apart to relube the head bearings and such. So I was just compressing the shocks individually pushing against the floor. So maybe they’re fine and I should just reassemble? The bike supposedly was working fine according to the PO and doesn’t have a ton of miles. Open to suggestions!
Post by: Inge K. on June 16, 2018, 05:52:22 PM
So maybe they’re fine and I should just reassemble?
Yes, with the correct amount of oil for the sport fork, which is 280 cc in each leg.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 06:13:56 PM
Post by: johnny on June 16, 2018, 06:28:53 PM
whats the part number of that cup... i may have a couple...
j o
Post by: Laitch on June 16, 2018, 06:36:31 PM
Can you buy these anywhere? Couldn’t find them on beemerboneyard or via google search.Yes, you can. What term did you use to search for them?
Post by: rbm on June 16, 2018, 06:47:18 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 07:10:40 PM
Looks like they're $20 each which seems like a lot so maybe I can live with the crack.
But Johnny, if you have a couple old ones lying around, I'd be happy to pay you for them assuming the price is reasonable. Let me know what you think.
I went ahead and put 280cc in both and sealed them up. I still need to repaint the lowers and then they can go back in the triple clamps.
Thanks all!
Post by: Laitch on June 16, 2018, 07:23:44 PM
Looks like they're $20 each which seems like a lot so maybe I can live with the crack.What's hard to live with is grit that gets in the fork seal and causes oil to leak out and has the potential to damage the forks, which also allow oil to leak out. Those cups are a method of wiping grit from the fork tubes and protecting the seals. A pair of fork gaiters is another method and there are other devices. You're in a good position to consider installing something right now.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 08:10:35 PM
Or are there aftermarket or generic ones that would work vs OEM?
Post by: rbm on June 16, 2018, 08:12:07 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 10:26:31 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/132595440871?ViewItem=&item=132595440871
Post by: Laitch on June 16, 2018, 10:49:07 PM
It says they're for a K75C but I think they are also 41mm so I'll double check that.Maybe you should measure yours. 41.3mm is the pre-1991 Sport fork tube measurement shown at MAX BMW (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51745&rnd=07242017). Having vernier calipers and a micrometer is helpful when identifying parts for your bike.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 16, 2018, 10:57:13 PM
Post by: johnny on June 17, 2018, 09:01:14 AM
i do not have that part number...
j o
Post by: oneplustwo on June 20, 2018, 08:09:16 PM
I think it's time to get to the frame next! But I need a tail light first. Any recommendations on an LED tail/brake/turn signal light? I see a bunch on eBay and amazon but not sure if any of them are all that great. This one is the leading contender at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/Partsam-Universal-Motorcycle-Flexible-Motorbikes/dp/B0140XMI1Q/ref=pd_cp_236_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=80460301815383741&pf_rd_r=1V4Y3PJ53PRJFKQKC309&pd_rd_wg=8LqRy&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=eAmw3&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2af27424-74e7-11e8-b5a7-659282df66eb&pd_rd_i=B0140XMI1Q&psc=1&refRID=1V4Y3PJ53PRJFKQKC309
Figure it's tough to go wrong for $10.
Post by: Laitch on June 20, 2018, 09:42:34 PM
But I need a tail light first. Any recommendations on an LED tail/brake/turn signal light?Do you understand that you'll need to modify the flasher relay to use the LED turn signals and do other modifications to use an LED brake/tail light successfully?
Figure it's tough to go wrong for $10.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 20, 2018, 10:52:19 PM
Separate question as I dig into the frame modification... I'm thinking about just getting this eBay seat: https://www.ebay.com/itm/26-inches-BMW-K75-K100-K1100-80s-90s-solo-cafe-racer-Brat-seat-CODE-S3191/112610955247?hash=item1a3822cfef:g:ru0AAOSwR29ZKnVd
Seems like a reasonable value and it's basically exactly the look I was looking for. Also, it should bolt right up after the requisite frame modifications which is nice. Any other suppliers out there that would offer something similar? I also had the thought of bring the stock seat to a local upholsterer but I doubt it would be as affordable.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 12:56:51 AM
In other parts news, I got my new spark plug wires and some other bits from beemerboneyard today. I ordered the saddle from Texavina as well (the primary seller of the ones on eBay linked below). Once I get that in I'll finalize the frame chop and then it's surgery time!
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 01:20:56 PM
I'm using the motogadget m.unit ... My understanding is that I can basically eliminate all the relays except the starter relay.
You will need to keep the FI Relay as well as starter relay
You'll also need to have some means of decoding the GPS signals for the Neutral Light (which I'm sure you would want)
And also might want to multiplex some of the alarm signals - you are only going to have one 'spare' warning light available on the Motosign and would think you want to alarm for low Oil Pressure and Overtemp at minimum
Some notes on that here - http://www.k100-forum.com/t13951-instrument-wiring-acewell-2853-verifications-and-observations
(I'm not sure if you have both - & + connections available for each lamp - if so, you can feed (-) directly to the red one, then no transistor is required)
You can find good schematic & notes on wiring the M-Unit on the K-100 forum by zach_ross if you search -
Here's his diagram - http://www.k100-forum.com/t13951-instrument-wiring-acewell-2853-verifications-and-observations
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 01:47:39 PM
Thanks for the tips. I was reading the FI relay was going to be needed as well although I was wondering if I could get away with using the motogadget auxiliary output for that since that can handle 10 amps and I believe the fuel pump is fused for 7.5A. Also, for the alarm signals, the m.unit has two auxiliary inputs as well so perhaps I could configure it to have two different signals to the same light for oil pressure and overtemp. Obviously, still need to decode the capability of the m.unit as well. There's a lot out there on the older versions but the newer version has some more bells and whistles that may help with some of this stuff.
Regardless, I still have a lot to figure out about the electrical stuff (and other systems!) so it will be a journey for sure.
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 02:04:05 PM
If you can use either polarity on the Motosign, then couple of diodes are all you need and connect them directly - but again, you can use one of the aux as a driver if you need it be positive.
There's no documentation for the Motosign (that I could see) but imagine you will have separate +/- for each LED?
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 02:23:30 PM
You're right on the motosign documentation. I assume it's obvious once I receive it as it supposedly it comes with a connection diagram. In the meantime, I found this:
(http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah63/brock103180/image.jpg1_zpsb6i1me6p.jpg)
Looks like they put together an option using diodes to have one light for both turn signals and then using two lights for oil and in this case, low fuel. I would use oil and temp to your point as this isn't going to be any sort of touring bike!
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 02:53:06 PM
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 02:59:55 PM
If you have the EFI relay powered on with ignition, pump is going to run continuously. I couldn't see way to control the output with the original older version but now you have more switchable outputs with the Aux function, so can readily use the Relay Control (already a (-) signal ) as an output control to mimic the EFI Relay.
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 03:02:13 PM
As I read some more on the newer one, you should be able to use Aux or 2 and control the output using the Yellow/Brown - that should work well with the same control as the OEMThis (https://motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/motosign_mini_manual_de_en.pdf) isn't much but it's something.
If you can use either polarity on the Motosign, then couple of diodes are all you need and connect them directly - but again, you can use one of the aux as a driver if you need it be positive.
There's no documentation for the Motosign (that I could see) but imagine you will have separate +/- for each LED?
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 03:03:17 PM
... you mean I can connect the yellow/brown wire from the ICU to auxiliary 1 input to determine whether or not to supply power to the FI relay?
Noy, you won't be using the relay - the aux output will be taking the place of the relay and you will just control the aux output using that signal as the steering switch; so it will exactly mimic the OEM behaviour of the relay
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 03:07:05 PM
This (https://motogadget.com/shop/media/downloads/manual/motosign_mini_manual_de_en.pdf) isn't much but it's something.Actually that is perfect!
It shows it is fixed (+) for the turns, but headlight, neutral and oil all have both wires so can be either polarity.
If you use diodes to free up one of turns, that will have to be a (+) input
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 03:13:09 PM
Actually that is perfect!Motogadget's site has all this information under a Downloads tab on the page of the instrument model (https://motogadget.com/shop/en/motoscope-mini.html) that has been selected.
It shows it is fixed (+) for the turns, but headlight, neutral and oil all have both wires so can be either polarity.
If you use diodes to free up one of turns, that will have to be a (+) input
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 03:19:45 PM
Motogadget's site has all this information under a Downloads tab on the page of the instrument model (https://motogadget.com/shop/en/motoscope-mini.html) that has been selected.
You read my mind with the question "where is it" - so it's not actually under a 'downloads' page for the motosign per se, it's actually under the motoscope mini. That wasn't immediately obvious to me (ther site navigation is a bit strange sometimes)
Appreciated! :2thumbup:
Post by: Laitch on June 26, 2018, 03:28:41 PM
You read my mind with the question "where is it" - so it's not actually under a 'downloads' page for the motosign per se, it's actually under the motoscope mini.That's because the motosign is a design function of the mini—Teutonic organization in action.
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 03:41:30 PM
Noy, you won't be using the relay - the aux output will be taking the place of the relay and you will just control the aux output using that signal as the steering switch; so it will exactly mimic the OEM behaviour of the relay
Yes, that's what I meant (accidentally added relay) and so might as well use it!
I'm a little confused on your point for the turn signal input. Wouldn't the input be a (+) coming from the m.unit paralleled from either of the turn signal outputs? Or am I missing a fundamental issue here?
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 03:44:35 PM
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 05:10:49 PM
... I'm a little confused on your point for the turn signal input. Wouldn't the input be a (+) coming from the m.unit paralleled from either of the turn signal outputs?
There are two inputs (lights) supplied for individual left & right lamps, with a common negative
Yes, you can use diodes from the two outputs to steer to just one of those lamps leaving one available for other options
But the one that is unused will require a (+) input - that logic is fixed as far as the tun lamps go.
It will also be 'green' which is not ideal as a 'warning' lamp but that is relatively minor nit.
The high beam can be either polarity but of course would be (+)
The Neutral and 'Other' can also be either polarity and you would likely want both of these as (-)
Quote
Oh, to follow up on your point for the neutral indicator. Will that require one of RBM's boards or is there a simpler way?
There are three signals from the GPS - those are all three (-) - i.e. connected to ground - when in neutral;
for other gears at least one of them is 'open' (pulled high as required externally)
You will find a few options in the forums - the most common is the use of multiple relays which is a bit 'clunky'
@RBM's board obviously does a lot more than just that function - you might ask him if he would be able to send you a stripped-down version with just the neutral decode chip.
Or with his kind permission DIY & use the part of the circuit that does that function on a mini-board
Post by: oneplustwo on June 26, 2018, 06:19:41 PM
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2611p50-my-k100-cafe-racer-project-story#36465
Also, perhaps I don't need a neutral indicator. This way, I can keep my left and right turn signals and turn the neutral indicator into the temp alarm. My understanding is that I would just have to start the bike with the clutch in, which is typical practice for me anyway. It would be nice to have the indicator while waiting at stop lights. But it's not that hard to check to see if you're in neutral or not, right?!
Post by: DEcosse on June 26, 2018, 06:37:42 PM
He has link in that to the User Manual which also includes the circuit for the neutral detect via a simple but effective NOR gate.
Note that you WILL need the drive transistor, even for an LED
You will see that he also offers a small compact pcb for the relay kit with the option to DIY assemble or just get it turn-key
Quote
My understanding is that I would just have to start the bike with the clutch in, which is typical practice for me anyway.
Well that would be with OEM start circuit - since you're using the M-Unit you can do what you like, including no interlock at all!
But as I suggested above, the simple wiring for the control signal for starter would be Neutral and Clutch switches in parallel, (so effectively an 'OR' situation) in series with the start switch
Or in your case, (eliminating neutral option) just the clutch switch (to ground) in series with the start switch.
As you say this is not a huge ordeal to always use the clutch - my Triumph (actually ALL Triumphs) operate same way.
But would have to say I would want a Neutral indicator personally
Post by: oneplustwo on June 27, 2018, 04:57:04 PM
Anyone have opinions about using expandable wire cable sleeving and/or silicone tape to keep the wiring harness clean and tidy? There's also slit braided sleeving and fleece cloth electrical tape that I've seen used. Not sure if it really makes any difference but thought I'd ask what folks would recommend.
Post by: DEcosse on June 27, 2018, 05:06:47 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on June 29, 2018, 03:03:26 AM
Post by: rbm on June 29, 2018, 06:25:32 AM
Clutch for high bars = 1625mm
Clutch for low bars = 1510mm
Throttle for high bars = 1142mm
Throttle for low bars = 1025mm
Post by: oneplustwo on June 29, 2018, 11:26:45 AM
Post by: oneplustwo on July 02, 2018, 11:43:23 PM
It appears my new clutch needs a smaller ferule at the lever than the stock cable has. I'm thinking I can just buy a stock cable and cut off the end and solder on my own ferrule on the end. I haven't checked the throttle side, but perhaps the same situation.
Alternative ideas?
Post by: johnny on July 03, 2018, 12:17:40 AM
at your local gokart shop...
use the red locktite...
s-l400.jpg (11.07 kB . 400x267 - viewed 555 times)j o
Post by: oneplustwo on July 03, 2018, 01:29:46 AM
Post by: oneplustwo on July 04, 2018, 11:46:27 PM
Also, I took all the stuff out of the tank in prep for sealing. I think it’s worth replacing the pump and filter along with the associated hoses.
Three questions.
1. Is there another aftermarket pump like the Purolator that folks used to use before it went obsolete? I see beemer boneyard has a Noris but even that is still pretty pricey.
2. Where can I get a new fuel level sender? Mine is super corroded and the wire connections are also nasty so I’d like a new one. Beemer boneyard is out of stock.
EDIT: How do I know if I really should replace the fuel pump? Wondering if I should put 12V to it and see if it actually still pumps water or not. And if yes, just put it back in?
Post by: Martin on July 05, 2018, 12:24:00 AM
See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg86054.html#msg86054
Regards Martin.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 05, 2018, 12:31:08 AM
I don't suppose AliExpress has fuel senders?! :)
Post by: Martin on July 05, 2018, 12:48:14 AM
See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9364.msg90596.html#msg90596 I've also been running a Chinese motorcycle GPS.
See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7975.msg79503.html#msg79503 I have tried a Aliexpress Chinese temperature sensor which turned out to not be compatible with the Brick.
Regards Martin.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 05, 2018, 02:01:52 PM
Post by: Martin on July 05, 2018, 04:38:41 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 05, 2018, 04:47:39 PM
Post by: rbm on July 05, 2018, 05:06:12 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on July 05, 2018, 05:31:38 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on July 06, 2018, 03:25:00 AM
I've painted the forks, front fender, and foot peg brackets a satin black thus far.
Post by: DEcosse on July 10, 2018, 09:29:08 PM
Yellow is fuel level, brown is ground, green/white is 12V, white is 4L reserve indicator
Can you clarify please?
Per this EXCELLENT article you authored - http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender - it suggests at very end of that, the White wire is the varying resistance level ...
Quote
Place one probe on the frame and the other on the white wire. When you move the float assembly arm, the resistance should change between these values. You will find that the resistance will now be about 2 Ohms with no fuel and about 130 Ohms with a full tank.In that article was that 'white' a typo?
Looking at schematic it would appear that the white is as you state above low level to the main instrument while the yellow goes off to the auxiliary instrument connector which I presume includes a fuel gauge that indicates actual level vs just a 'low' threshold - do I have that right?
Post by: rbm on July 10, 2018, 10:55:40 PM
Post by: Laitch on July 10, 2018, 11:21:04 PM
I'm debating between painting my wheels and the frame a matching color (black or blue) or keeping the frame black and just cleaning the wheels up and leaving them bare aluminum. Any thoughts or inspirational bikes you all love that I could consider? . . .(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-100718231938.jpeg)
Post by: oneplustwo on July 10, 2018, 11:25:43 PM
Post by: Martin on July 10, 2018, 11:35:55 PM
Regards Martin.
Post by: Laitch on July 11, 2018, 07:24:41 AM
What the hell?You don't need to copy that exactly. Substitute fuscia for the blue and match the fenders with it.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 11, 2018, 11:19:28 AM
Post by: Laitch on July 11, 2018, 11:49:45 AM
Especially given the mechanical decisions. Is there an article or forum with more details on the build?The color scheme seems weird to you?
It was one of a couple of builds offered on Craigslist a couple of years ago. The builder had resided in Florida at the time of sale. There might be more information out there somewhere.
Post by: oneplustwo on July 14, 2018, 10:45:39 PM
Any other ideas or opinions?
Post by: oneplustwo on July 22, 2018, 11:58:02 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on July 24, 2018, 11:06:35 PM
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 24, 2018, 11:10:28 PM
Post by: Martin on July 25, 2018, 12:44:36 AM
Regards Martin.
Post by: oneplustwo on August 04, 2018, 05:46:23 PM
Post by: bartan on August 06, 2018, 02:16:28 AM
Bartan
Welded and ready for paint. Might need a little bondo first... I'm still a welding novice!
Post by: oneplustwo on August 06, 2018, 01:00:06 PM
The quality is pretty good for the price. I wanted real leather but again, for the price, can't go wrong.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 06, 2018, 04:53:30 PM
Painted the frame.
Intake back on with some new clamps from McMaster Carr.
Swingarm and wheel back on.
Forks and front wheel on with bars mocked up.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 06, 2018, 04:56:08 PM
Post by: Laitch on December 06, 2018, 05:54:44 PM
Anyone have a favorite resource for rewiring? Already have the schematics, just thinking about the bigger picture...What is meant by the bigger picture? M-units have been deployed during several modifications found in the Custom section. If you find a thread with a successful outcome, try personal messaging the moto's owner.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 06, 2018, 06:28:23 PM
Another question... any advice on custom front brake line and clutch cable? Since I have new controls, I need to redo those two items. And I think I'll have to go custom so as to make sure they're not weird lengths since the bars are now much closer to the triple clamps.
Post by: Laitch on December 06, 2018, 07:46:30 PM
I guess I was thinking more along the lines of tips and tricks in making looms, wire routing, stuff like that. First time rewiring a motorcycle so this is new territory for me! Might be overthinking it.You've been working with that Motogadget since June so it doesn't seem like you're underthinking it anyway. You had many questions and responses back then. What's hanging you up?
Post by: johnny on December 06, 2018, 08:06:54 PM
dont use solid copper wior or any solid wior for that matter... use only stranded copper wior...
j o
Post by: oneplustwo on December 06, 2018, 08:34:42 PM
You've been working with that Motogadget since June so it doesn't seem like you're underthinking it anyway. You had many questions and responses back then. What's hanging you up?
I bought it in June and started looking into the basics and what my general plan would be in terms of how much of the original I would replace. Having now decided I'll likely replace most all of the existing wiring, I'm now at the point where I actually need to do stuff practically. So yah, maybe I just need to get started.
Post by: Laitch on December 06, 2018, 09:26:29 PM
Having now decided I'll likely replace most all of the existing wiring, I'm now at the point where I actually need to do stuff practically. So yah, maybe I just need to get started.There are some observations in this thread (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9716-has-anyone-made-a-custom-wiring-harness#115443) which might interest you.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 06, 2018, 11:46:44 PM
Post by: natalena on December 09, 2018, 01:13:38 PM
Deconstructing the stock harness sounds like a bear but also would be nice and clean.
Reconstructed a harness once, because I figured it'd be easy to save big bucks and any monkey could do it. Well, THIS monkey should've stayed in the tree playing with himself, as it took a longtime spread out on the garage floor. I used to live off 21st and California, with those super narrow, 9ft wide 3 car garages. I'll never do it again!
A take away is this; use a 4x8 sheet of plywood to tack up the old harness to methodically label end components, unpeel and see the wire gauge, terminal ends, junctions, and colors easier. Rebuild the new harness following the physical schematic that's now tacked on the board...easy-peasy, any monkey could do this! Cheers
Post by: oneplustwo on December 10, 2018, 07:05:10 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on February 02, 2019, 07:22:43 PM
Gas tank fuel pump wires: I don't plan to use the fuel level sensor, but obviously need to get power to the fuel pump. The sender assembly is quite corroded and I would like to find a way to modify the stamped metal plate to get power to the fuel pump. Anyone know of an appropriate connector that could work for such an application?
Clutch cable: The aftermarket clutch lever I have doesn't work with the stock cable. Do I need a custom cable or are there generic cables that will work? Here's a photo of the lever assembly.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7898/46912003022_c22e5f986f_z.jpg)
And here's the difference between the ends that thread into the lever assembly:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7869/39999563653_2760ca5949_z.jpg)
Throttle cable: The throttle assembly I have has a different end for the throttle body side. Is there a way for me to modify to fit? Here's a photo of the cable I have:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4824/46239554864_2760ca5949_z.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7904/46963911661_4daa026062_z.jpg)
Thanks for the help!
Post by: Laitch on February 02, 2019, 08:34:33 PM
Gas tank fuel pump wires: I don't plan to use the fuel level sensor, but obviously need to get power to the fuel pump.What stops you from using the existing wiring to the pump but cutting away the sensor hardware and sending it to recycling?
Post by: oneplustwo on February 02, 2019, 08:49:31 PM
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7884/32023726437_f49d75e6f8_z.jpg)
Another (ghetto) option that might not even work is to just route the wires through with a connector on the outside, and then seal it up somehow with some epoxy or other recommended sealer that is fuel/solvent resistant.
Post by: Laitch on February 02, 2019, 08:54:16 PM
It's all just super corroded.How about posting some photos of this tragic situation? The simplest solution isn't ghetto; it's simple. If it looks like hell when it's finished, that's on you.
Post by: oneplustwo on February 02, 2019, 09:05:02 PM
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/abt-cfd-504
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/46050920055_44cde8dd2e_z.jpg)
They claim you can just have the right gauge wire through the two holes and it seals up ok. I guess there's not a lot of pressure in the fuel tank so maybe that works?
Here's a photo of the corrosion. As you can see, I already cut off the fuel level bits.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7878/46240327854_49f7fe835c_z.jpg)
Post by: Laitch on February 02, 2019, 09:50:53 PM
Here's a photo of the corrosion. As you can see, I already cut off the fuel level bits. . . .The first step is to determine the depth of the corrosion. Corrosion must be thoroughly removed. If the panel is usable then quite a few bulkhead connectors are available that only need 15mm or less hole diameter. Many require a minimum panel thickness so that will need to be established.
I guess there's not a lot of pressure in the fuel tank so maybe that works?
Whether the connector you've indicated will not leak fuel when properly mounted must be established in writing by the manufacturer. Proceeding with a maybe based on assumptions is a poor strategy to adopt.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 02, 2019, 09:59:40 PM
Whatever you use make very sure the sealing materials are compatible with the stuff in your tank.
Post by: oneplustwo on February 02, 2019, 10:41:24 PM
https://www.efihardware.com/products/1593/submersible-pump-bulk-head-terminals
Post by: oneplustwo on February 03, 2019, 02:27:36 PM
Anyone have thoughts about the clutch and throttle cables?
Post by: oneplustwo on February 07, 2019, 02:01:52 AM
Post by: Rcgreaves on February 07, 2019, 05:30:47 PM
I'll dig for a pic of me thirty years younger in SF. What a place to ride!!
Post by: oneplustwo on February 07, 2019, 05:59:07 PM
Here's the link to the mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCLB57U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would love a cafe Honda 500 or similar next. Maybe something with a kick start. Need to finish this one first!
One of the greatest riding weeks of my life was attending a friends wedding in LA and then bunking with SF friends and bombing around the bay on a cafe Honda 500. Ive enjoyed reading your thread. Keep it up. Post the source for those styling mirrors mounted on the grips. My son's R6 could use a set of those.
I'll dig for a pic of me thirty years younger in SF. What a place to ride!!
Post by: oneplustwo on February 11, 2019, 02:12:21 AM
Post by: Laitch on February 12, 2019, 09:57:26 AM
I just now read that the measurement of the barrel to the cable housing end should be 75mm at it's longest so I'll check that tomorrow and see. If anyone has any other advice, would love to hear it.First, I grease the cable nipples at the hand lever and clutch arm. Then I follow the clutch adjustment steps in the sequence presented in the K75/K100 2V service manual downloadable from this site. When setting free play dimension A, I use one-finger pressure on the lever to verify there is slack of the correct dimension before the cable starts to engage the clutch arm. Out-of-sequence adjustment of these elements is unlikely to provide good results.
Low and medium bar clutch cable length is 1510mm.
Post by: natalena on February 12, 2019, 10:39:53 AM
it seems like the clutch lever doesn't provide enough throw to fully disengage the clutch. I don't know how much I need and it's possible that I just need to shorten the cable a bit.
You're probably on top of this, but I've changed cables and had "slack" in the line, due to not fully seating the outer housing snug in the barrel adjuster. Sometimes it's only a few mm, but it makes a big difference in throw.
* The ride up to Stinson Beach and north to Ocean Cove and beyond is amazing. There's really only 2 roads that connect the coast to I-5 above Santa Rosa, and both are spectacular for MCs. Good luck with the build.
Post by: rbm on February 12, 2019, 12:43:09 PM
Ooh, good stuff there that led to other threads still! Deconstructing the stock harness sounds like a bear but also would be nice and clean. I worry I might mess something up along the way though. Will have to think on it further.Yes, it would be a bear. Read about the experiences that Shogs encountered trying the same thing: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12040&highlight=harness
Post by: oneplustwo on February 13, 2019, 01:59:04 PM
Yes, it would be a bear. Read about the experiences that Shogs encountered trying the same thing: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12040&highlight=harness
Yes, I read that thread. I'm going to try to keep the FI and related harness in one piece and replace just the pieces for controls and lights and such.
Also, I need to figure out how I'm going to fab a plate under the tank to mount everything to since I want to keep the section under the seat as empty as possible. Any thoughts about using an aluminum piece vs steel? I wonder if galvanic corrosion is something to worry about.
Post by: rbm on February 13, 2019, 05:15:30 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on February 13, 2019, 05:19:33 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 17, 2020, 08:12:29 PM
Embarrassed to say it's been more than a year since I made any real progress on the brick. Now with Coronavirus providing some free time, I'm back at it!
Next step... mounting an aluminum plate to the frame under the tank so I can have a place to mount the m-unit, starter relay, and other miscellaneous bits.
Any suggestions on the preferred method? I was considering drill and tapping the underside of the frame rails but holes in the frame doesn't sound great. The other option is zip ties with a ground strap. A little ghetto, but benefits beyond no holes in the frame are vibration isolation and ease of execution.
Post by: Laitch on May 18, 2020, 12:00:05 AM
Next step... mounting an aluminum plate to the frame under the tank so I can have a place to mount the m-unit, starter relay, and other miscellaneous bits.Put them in a plastic box then secure it with Velcro somewhere.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 18, 2020, 01:15:38 AM
https://youtu.be/1dL9RDF_Wvw
Post by: Laitch on May 18, 2020, 08:17:24 AM
Post by: jjefferies on May 18, 2020, 01:52:40 PM
Hi all,Do some investigation there. I believe that with some of the fork types there is damping in only one side. Sorry my recollection isn't clear as to which kind. The dust caps are just that and not a big concern. I also am restoring a '90 K75. I picked it up back in '13 for my now ex. (long sad story there) It had spent a bunch of years stored outside out in the Avenues, SF. The frame had some noxious rust, so I stripped it down and had the frame powder coated. Got the engine remounted and the wheels back on and then it sat sadly in my garage the ex having split and taken the dog. I do so miss the dog (and the girl). So for the COVID-19 SIP I restarted the restoration process. Somewhere I got the impression you may be in the SF Bay area. IF so give a holler, as there are a couple of good people around with resources useful for a restoration job. As in I just scored a brand new BMW seat for a K75 for $60. No promises as always YMMV. Good Luck.
I got the front end disassembled last night. Looks like the forks need some work. One side has zero damping. The other seems to only have damping on rebound. Also, the dust caps (the black rubber things that rest of top of the forks) are cracked. Hoping that they just need to be refilled with oil.
Post by: jjefferies on May 18, 2020, 03:07:05 PM
1. Ignition switch. I had major issues with the electrics until I gave up trying to restore the ignition switch and just replaced it. THE SWITCH, electrical part not the locking mechanism. The switch by itself is USD $40. and is fairly easy to replace, caveat, provided the little screw that holds it in place in the larger housing hasn't rusted in place. If it has proceed with care as the whole switch, housing and locking mechanism are apparently N/A.
2. Locks. If you are working with parts off different bikes then locks can be an issue. The critical ones are: 1.) the ignition switch, 2.) the gas tank lock 3.) the fork lock. All the others, seat, and saddle bags strictly speaking IMO can be faked. There is a very good description of how to fake those by removing the tumbler, putting the key you want to use in the tumbler and then grinding off any protruding lock bits.
3. seats: in the US after some period BMW farmed out seats to Corbin. Corbin in turn will be happy to restore your seat, for about the same price as a new BMW seat. Alternatively if the foam on yours isn't too bad you can find a shop to stitch you up a new skin. Installation while not trivial is not that difficult.
best regards to anyone else doing a restore.
Post by: oneplustwo on May 18, 2020, 03:46:53 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 19, 2020, 01:17:06 AM
Post by: Laitch on May 19, 2020, 10:49:06 AM
However, I do need to get the power to the fuel pump.You should try doing a search of the site sometime.
Two of the wires on the plate will deliver power and ground to the pump. You can adroitly remove the sender leaving those two wires intact then determine if they need patching or replacing. Look here (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5738.msg36851.html#msg36851).
Post by: oneplustwo on May 19, 2020, 12:44:29 PM
Both the level sender and the connections for the fuel pump are toast. I can try to solder new wires on, but the little metal lugs are so small and corroded that I have little confidence in it working over time. I'm tempted to try drilling a hole through the existing plastic "plug" and epoxying in new lugs (does epoxy react with fuel?) In my search, I haven't come across any other ideas beyond a new sender unit, thus my question.
Post by: Laitch on May 19, 2020, 12:56:54 PM
In my search, I haven't come across any other ideas beyond a new sender unit, thus my question.How about this (https://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10030.msg85609.html#msg85609)?
Post by: oneplustwo on May 19, 2020, 02:13:25 PM
Post by: oneplustwo on May 19, 2020, 02:42:17 PM
Post by: Laitch on May 19, 2020, 03:02:59 PM
It appears epoxy is fuel resistant so the simplest thing to do would be just to run the wires through a hole I drill in the fitting with epoxy to fill gaps and hold everything in place?That sounds simple for certain. :laughing4-giggles:
Regarding the marine coupling—or any other unfamiliar part—I'd email the manufacturer for clarification. In this case that would be Ancor Technical Support (https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/contact). Scroll down and pick one.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 22, 2022, 04:13:37 PM
If anyone is interested, please let me know. (I’m in San Francisco.)
Post by: jjefferies on December 22, 2022, 05:05:50 PM
Alas, my poor project has been neglected for too long. It’s time to let it go.Now, Now. Despair not. My last K75 project sat for 7 years between instigation and restart. The bike didn't suffer any significant degradation. I just waited for the pandemic to come along and give me time to get to it.
If anyone is interested, please let me know. (I’m in San Francisco.)
In the meantime tease us with how cheaply you are going to be letting it go for and how much you'ver already done.
Post by: oneplustwo on December 22, 2022, 05:16:59 PM
This thread is as updated as my progress! In short, the frame is welded and I have a saddle that to match. Suspension is sorted and maintenance is all done with new fork oil, serviced driveshaft splines, and so on. I repainted the fenders and forks and the brackets for the pedals. The big things to do are the wiring, sorting out the internals of the gas tank, and otherwise reassembling the other various bits (levers and mirrors and such.) Also, the saddle to frame "interface" needs to be figured out but shouldn't be a big issue.
I was thinking $1500 for the whole kit and caboodle. I have no idea if that's realistic or not. But I'm open to offers. That doesn't include the motogadget bits as those are all unused and probably worth $1500 by themselves (m-unit, motoscope speedo, cable kit, m-switches)!
Post by: Chaos on December 22, 2022, 08:35:59 PM