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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Enfield on April 28, 2018, 04:06:19 PM
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Hi. I mounted this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/1a37f1af3d68153c86af5bfee84b6cb4.jpg)
And connected it to a Bep. 3.0 ....
Almost everything works - even gears and speedometer!
But for some reason the tacho doesnt work. Would it be possible just to bypass the Bep and connect directly to ignition ... somehow🤨?
Or if someone have the same setup - working... then maybe the tachometer is faulty
Regards
Chr
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Bep. 3.0....
Bike in question is a K100 1984
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And connected it to a Bep. 3.0 ....
Almost everything works - even gears and speedometer!
But for some reason the tacho doesnt work.
The reason it doesn't work—according to the extract below from Euro MotoElectrics—is that the BEP 3.0 designer didn't design something to get it to work. There are alternatives. He explains some of them and you'll find information on this site about them.
Two Limitations of Functionality exist: - If your fuel tank is not equipped with a float then the level sensor of your speedo will not function either. In this case, only a fuel gauge (being triggered at fuel level of 4L, as in the original) can be used instead.
- The BEP3.0 does not provide an engine speed signal. Motogadget is selling an ignition signal pick-up for the ignition cable at a price of €30 (which I use myself - works just perfectly). Other manufacturers pick off the high-voltage-signal capacitively or make use of the 12-volt-control signal of the ignition coil (not high-voltage side).I have carried out tests for extended periods and unfortunately have found no way to filter the engine speed signal in such a way, that it is compatible with any speedo type. That’s why I decided not to use a speed output.
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The reason it doesn't work—according to the extract below from Euro MotoElectrics—is that the BEP 3.0 designer didn't design something to get it to work. There are alternatives. He explains some of them and you'll find information on this site about them.
Two Limitations of Functionality exist: - If your fuel tank is not equipped with a float then the level sensor of your speedo will not function either. In this case, only a fuel gauge (being triggered at fuel level of 4L, as in the original) can be used instead.
- The BEP3.0 does not provide an engine speed signal. Motogadget is selling an ignition signal pick-up for the ignition cable at a price of €30 (which I use myself - works just perfectly). Other manufacturers pick off the high-voltage-signal capacitively or make use of the 12-volt-control signal of the ignition coil (not high-voltage side).I have carried out tests for extended periods and unfortunately have found no way to filter the engine speed signal in such a way, that it is compatible with any speedo type. That’s why I decided not to use a speed output.
[emoji1303]
That explains... Will get the ignition signal pickup. Thanks for helping me one more time.
Chr
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Before you go out and buy the Motogadget device, read this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10224.0.html
You might be able to get a RPM reading by connecting the coil #1 primary (Black / Blue Pin 16) to the following circuit:
(https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/rc/rc13.gif)
The capacitor can be around 0.1uF to 0.33uF 250V and the resistor about 2,200 Ohms. The coil primary input goes to the capacitor on the left, the tachometer input connects to where the resistor and capacitor join up on the right and the other end of the resistor is connected to ground. This will level shift the input negative enough to maybe get a reading on the tachometer.
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Before you go out and buy the Motogadget device, read this: http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10224.0.html
You might be able to get a RPM reading by connecting the coil #1 primary (Black / Blue Pin 16) to the following circuit:
(https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/rc/rc13.gif)
The capacitor can be around 0.1uF to 0.33uF 250V and the resistor about 2,200 Ohms. The coil primary input goes to the capacitor on the left, the tachometer input connects to where the resistor and capacitor join up on the right and the other end of the resistor is connected to ground. This will level shift the input negative enough to maybe get a reading on the tachometer.
Thanks Rbm
Read everything - do I understand correct that you are saying that the cheap EBay speedo might not work with the Motogadget device? And what you are suggesting is a simplified solution go get it to work, instead of the solution you link to?
I Can build houses, do some work on a Valjoux 7753, and most of the stuff on my K....but untill now I have a blockage about Electronics [emoji56] But the “easy” solution might be my first try.
Regards
Chr
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I Can build houses, do some work on a Valjoux 7753 . . .
We don't care about that, Enfield, even if we believed you. We're all wearing Casios and Timexes and live happily in prefabricated yurts. :giggles
What's compelling about rbm's response to your post is that he appears to have worked out a viable solution for exactly the same—and what he refers to as annoying—Chinese gauge that won't fully function for you. Three questions occur to me.
Does he have one to sell you?
If he has one to sell, why wouldn't you buy it?
Does it need a cooler name like The rBMWavemaster2.2.1?
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We don't care about that, Enfield, even if we believed you. We're all wearing Casios and Timexes and live happily in prefabricated yurts. :giggles
What's compelling about rbm's response to your post is that he appears to have worked out a viable solution for exactly the same—and what he refers to as annoying—Chinese gauge that won't fully function for you. Three questions occur to me.
Does he have one to sell you?
If he has one to sell, why wouldn't you buy it?
Does it need a cooler name like The rBMWavemaster2.2.1?
Hey - it passed me entirely - I would buy it right away. Sorry but I sometimes miss some underlying things as English it not my first language....
I went for the Bep as it looked Like plug and play, and was available next door ( Germany)
Regards
Chr
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I went for the Bep as it looked Like plug and play, and was available next door ( Germany)
The BEP is a good product by all accounts; it just doesn't have that tachometer function to fit all the different types of gauges available. If it did, the cost probably would not be as attractive and sales wouldn't sustain production. rbm's board is a solution for the tachometer signal function.
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So I re-read the BEP 3.0 user guide (which I had downloaded a while back) and it indicates that there is an output for engine rotational speed. On page 7 in the manual I have it states: "- RPM and SPD is output as a square wave signal, which means that the rotary pulses from the crankshaft or the rear wheel respectively, are changed in a changing frequency of low and high Pulses."
On the BEP 3.0's WEGO connector, it's PIN 24 and designated RPM. If you hook up the circuit with the capacitor and resistor which I posted, you should be able to get the tachometer in your gauge to work. Refer to my article about stabilizing the tacho signal, the link to which I posted above, to understand the range of values of components you can choose for this circuit. This is an easy circuit to build. Use a perfboard upon which to mount the components and I'd suggest using a terminal block like the one used by Maru. You can order electronic parts online from RS Components if there is nothing local to you.
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So I re-read the BEP 3.0 user guide (which I had downloaded a while back) and it indicates that there is an output for engine rotational speed. On page 7 in the manual I have it states: "- RPM and SPD is output as a square wave signal, which means that the rotary pulses from the crankshaft or the rear wheel respectively, are changed in a changing frequency of low and high Pulses."
On the BEP 3.0's WEGO connector, it's PIN 24 and designated RPM. If you hook up the circuit with the capacitor and resistor which I posted, you should be able to get the tachometer in your gauge to work. Refer to my article about stabilizing the tacho signal, the link to which I posted above, to understand the range of values of components you can choose for this circuit. This is an easy circuit to build. Use a perfboard upon which to mount the components and I'd suggest using a terminal block like the one used by Maru. You can order electronic parts online from RS Components if there is nothing local to you.
Thank you so much [emoji1303]
Regards
Chr
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Here's some supplemental education (http://www.ducksters.com/science/physics/resistors_capacitors_and_inductors.php), Enfield. I'm enrolling myself in the course right now. :giggles
Dont know if its a thank you or.....[emoji848]
But hey.... can’t all be Timex as you knew it was a watch I was refering to[emoji6]
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Rather than point you to other areas on the Internet for information, I'll post it here. You have to add a small film or ceramic capacitor of 0.1uF 25V in series with the RPM (pin 24) output, followed by a 2,200 Ohm 1/4W 5% resistor in parallel with the output. These two components together will generate the needed negative voltage and will result in a working tachometer. The values of these two components is not critical. The capacitor can be between 0.033uF and 0.22uF and the resistor can be between 1,000 Ohms and 3,300 Ohms, but the values I recommend optimal. I built this one pictured below for someone with this same problem of non-responsive tacho.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2vkxbpk.jpg)
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. . . as you knew it was a watch I was refering to(https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji6.png)
Google knew it was a watch, and I know Google. :yes
Good luck with your circuitry!
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Rather than point you to other areas on the Internet for information, I'll post it here. You have to add a small film or ceramic capacitor of 0.1uF 25V in series with the RPM (pin 24) output, followed by a 2,200 Ohm 1/4W 5% resistor in parallel with the output. These two components together will generate the needed negative voltage and will result in a working tachometer. The values of these two components is not critical. The capacitor can be between 0.033uF and 0.22uF and the resistor can be between 1,000 Ohms and 3,300 Ohms, but the values I recommend optimal. I built this one pictured below for someone with this same problem of non-responsive tacho.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2vkxbpk.jpg)
Thank you [emoji1303]
Have a store almost next door where I Can show Them what I need! If you were in the EU I would much rather order it from you - if you do take orders!
Regards
Chr
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@rbm
You are a genius - it works perfectly!! Thank you.
As it is my very first try in soldering I guess I Can get away with “ whatever works”[emoji56]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180430/0fb704c4f6883c103be1d7f20b79229d.jpg)
Regards
Chr
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This probably doesn’t help you much but for wider reference the 84euro Tumbleton and Twist unit seems to work fine with the BEP3 (connected directly to the RPM pin out).
I haven’t tested the speedo yet but believe it should work with the BEP3 as long as it’s set to receive the signal in 5V mode.
https://m.louis.eu/artikel/t-t-multifunction-instrument/10034806
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180501/a23b7cd17fc6921557d497ce74ce92b5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180501/bd4ea9cd9bb7da0566c808cdca047d0e.jpg)
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It is ok - thanks. But now everything works and parts to make my rpm work was around 3€ and half an hour.
Regards
Chr
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Hi @Enfield
I was hoping you may be able to show me a setup pic of your BEP 3.0 and the eBay speedometer. As far as I can tell I have wired everything up perfectly and I am not even getting the tach to light up never mind look into if any of the other functions are working. Any help/advice would be hugely appreciated.
All the best, JD
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Hi!
I have a problem with the same set as OP: the ‘cheap Chinese speedo’ and bep3.0. Most of the things seem to be working including tachometer if I understand the English names properly - the RPMs are working and values seem trustworthy. However the electronicall display of the speed (speedometer?) is workin but giving false values - that are roughly 2times too high.
I have the version of Chinese gauge which came with the magnet sensor. I used on of 3 cables going to the magnet sensor to connect it to the SPD ouput in the BEP.
Anybody aware of this problem and have and idea for a workaround?
Regards,
Peter
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Program the gauge for 6 pulses per revolution and wheel circumference of 2000mm. then test and play with the wheel circumference value until the road speed is correct.
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Hi. I mounted this
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/1a37f1af3d68153c86af5bfee84b6cb4.jpg)
And connected it to a Bep. 3.0 ....
Almost everything works - even gears and speedometer!
But for some reason the tacho doesnt work. Would it be possible just to bypass the Bep and connect directly to ignition ... somehow🤨?
Or if someone have the same setup - working... then maybe the tachometer is faulty
Regards
Chr
Have some questions, i had instaled same speedometer, brought BEP3.0, have such a problems, maybe you will help me:
Gears: everything is ok with N gear, but instead 1 gear i have 2 gear, and everything goes high. Have no first gear.
Speed: Do you connected wire to speedometer straight from BEP SPD port? Is it works well.
RPM: made sceme capasitor and resistor (capasitor 0.33uF 250V and the resistor 2,200 Ohms), where i need to connect wire from CDI (is it 16 port, Black / Blue Pin from old speedometer connections (connected to BEP)? or from anywhere?
Thank you.
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Hi, I’m new to the forum and a total noob when it comes to working on bikes. I’m hooking up the speedometer and have all functions working but I’m not getting the speed output and the rpm needle seems to lag/stick. I’m thinking it could partially be related to the speedometer menu settings which seem to be a little different for me than the videos I’m seeing online. For starters, I need to enter a password when I long press the button on the back at startup. I see “CCC - - -“. 123 seems to be the password anything else just boots me back to the “CCC - - -“ menu. 123 gets me to the settings but those are also different. The first setting starts with “y” and goes from 1-2-4-6-8. I’m wondering if this is cylinder count? This is also an issue for me since I am running this on a k75. No option for 3 cylinders. I’m also not seeing anywhere to set my tire size. I’ve attached some pictures just in case any of you can shed some light on the matter.
Another question I have is that I keep reading that the BEP 3.0 can output either 5V or 12V. Is there a switch to flip somewhere for this? Could a potential problem be that I’m not pushing enough juice to the speedometer?
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After a few hours of searching, I found this document. Figured I’d share it just in case anyone else is dealing with the same issue.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g25vpdkat2az40j/speedometerInstructions.pdf?dl=0
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Nice doing the Same thing!
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FYI - I gave up on this speedo after a few weeks... I had similar problems with N-2-3-4-5-5 gears as some others have stated. Nothing I did could make my speedo work with the BEP 3.0 (although after some research and info via @rbm I'll be checking the ground on my speedo cable)... Just sucked up the cost and ordered a mgadget mini speedo... Will post here if I have better luck given the price... Good luck to others going the cheap route!
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After a few hours of searching, I found this document. Figured I’d share it just in case anyone else is dealing with the same issue.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g25vpdkat2az40j/speedometerInstructions.pdf?dl=0
Thanks for sharing the link. Have you determined the proper frequency setting for this unit?
Tks!
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Hi Guys :)
First I want to say that I've done this with my last k bike project and I had no problems, just connected the speed and the rpm cable directly from the bep 3.0 to the speedometer and it started without any problems, however now on my second k bike project I have no working rpm and speedometer, everything else works gears indicators everything.
There are exactly the same speedometers but the interface and setting menus are different, also I bought them from different places.
So can someone give a correct solution, because now Ive tried with condensator and resistor and still not working... 177381
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RPM: You have to have the R-C integrator circuit attached to the RPM output of the BEP 3.0 to get it to work with this gauge. This gauge expects the RPM signal to go negative relative to ground and the output of the BEP doesn't do that without help.
SPEEDO: You'll probably need to borrow an oscilloscope to debug what is going on with the speedo circuit. Can you do that? Right now, you don't have enough information to point to any failing component. I wrote a user manual for this gauge. Download it from my Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IgZF3Qgx_Aa1mvcWAAjfVeTaBCb5WNkC/view?usp=sharing
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Thank you very much for the quick response, yes my plan was also to check the speedo in a electronic workshop with oscilloscope or something like that to be shure that I'm using the correct input, because the user manual wasnt exactly matching the colors of the cables. I suspected that there will be problems when ive notice that...
My point was that, on my last K bike, I've used the same combination bep3 and this speedometer( on outside is the same) only the cables and the interface settings were different and it was easy job plug and ride 😁😁😁
Ill use your user manual wich Im very thankful for and ill see where is my mistake, Thank you again :) cheers
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RPM: You have to have the R-C integrator circuit attached to the RPM output of the BEP 3.0 to get it to work with this gauge. This gauge expects the RPM signal to go negative relative to ground and the output of the BEP doesn't do that without help.
SPEEDO: You'll probably need to borrow an oscilloscope to debug what is going on with the speedo circuit. Can you do that? Right now, you don't have enough information to point to any failing component. I wrote a user manual for this gauge. Download it from my Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IgZF3Qgx_Aa1mvcWAAjfVeTaBCb5WNkC/view?usp=sharing
From the manual that you've made, finally I understood that the signal for RPM have to be negative...
The capacitor and resistor had made the signal lower but not oposite from positive to negative... can I take this negative signal from somewhere else from the coils maybe?
Ill try to make a RC connection and see what happens, hope it will work
Too much problems with this speedometer... 😒
There are different settings Y2 Y3 Y4 Y6 Y8, do you have any idea which is the correct one, my logic and from the Chinese manual I understood that all are for 4 stroke engines only y1 y2 ... means the cylinders...
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If you can send me a copy of your Chinese manual, I will attempt to interpret it and update my manual for you.
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[ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ] I found this on Internet and its like mine, the colors are the same like on my scheme, but my actual colors are different.
Also the guy from the store that I bought it gived me another schemes but still not matching the colors and the position on the back of the gauge.
20220314_170703.jpg (39.21 kB . 768x576 - viewed 647 times)
20220314_170712.jpg (40.29 kB . 768x576 - viewed 650 times)
-878259255-1793771366.jpg (49.25 kB . 768x549 - viewed 608 times)
20220316_194729.jpg (66.01 kB . 645x576 - viewed 565 times)
20220316_194704.jpg (59.99 kB . 665x576 - viewed 626 times) [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
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20220317_093027.jpg (89.37 kB . 768x576 - viewed 658 times)
20220317_093018.jpg (68.42 kB . 768x576 - viewed 641 times)And this is the one, as you can see different interface and different adjustments are made and it worked plug and play, first the rpms were not correct but after adjustments on the speedo it started normally. Also the speed was not correct, but when ive chose 7 magnets it was correct.
Maybe the electronic is different inside but it was easy job with the bep3
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Now I've made this, like it was written in this topic, but still not any movement of the rpm dail... [ Invalid Attachment ]
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Do a quick test to confirm the gauge. Get a length of 18GA stranded wire and coil one end of it around one of the spark plug wires, 6 times in a tight coil, just like in the picture below. Use electrical tape to secure it. Connect the other end of the wire to the RPM input on the gauge. Turn on the engine; does the tachometer work?
(http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/tach_braid.jpg)
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No 😒 no movement, I get 4.2V on blue cable, when I give some throttle goes 4.4v but no reaction from the speedometer, I tried the different settings Y1 Y2 Y4 but no effect

20220318_081555.jpg (85.2 kB . 768x576 - viewed 596 times)
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Conclusion I draw is that your gauge is broken. The RPM needle should respond to that signal on the Blue wire. I'd contact the seller to see about a replacement.
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I'm connecting it to Black/yellow wire, I've tested all the wiring so I can attach all my signals and 2 left, one for speed and one for rpm, non of them is giving mi response...
It's ffrom China, aliexpress, the replacement is going to be nightmare...
I'm ordering another one, hopefully it will work,
I'm very thankful for your support and advices, hopefully more people will see and solve their "mysteries"
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Just to confirm, you are connecting the Blue wire to the Black/Red wire on your gauge going to Pin 17 of the big 20-pin connector. Is that correct?
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No, the black/ yellow on my gauge is on pin 8, which on the diagram is written as gear2, which is not correct.
This is upside 1-10
[ Invalid Attachment ]
This is lowside 11-20
[ Invalid Attachment ]
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In Reply #32, you posted two colour coding charts. I chose the first chart, which appears to be wrong. In the second chart, the RPM signal input is Black/Purple. Is that the one you have connected the Blue wire to?
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In Reply #32, you posted two colour coding charts. I chose the first chart, which appears to be wrong. In the second chart, the RPM signal input is Black/Purple. Is that the one you have connected the Blue wire to?
Yes, this is the correct chart, but stil there are differences with some of the colors, but I've tested all of them so I'm pretty shure that the black/ yellow cable is the rpm signal.
The seller sent me these other charts but totally different colors and cables positions...
Im waiting for other speedometer, after Iinstal the other one, I'll see what is the situation and Ill see if the speedo is defective or the problem is in me, I'm too dumb to wire 10 cables 🤪🤪🤪
Cheers for now, I'm stopping the spam of this thread, I'll only give my feedback after new speedometer comes and I'm hoping to be with different interface, familiar to me I hope 😀