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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Gr-Racing on April 27, 2018, 12:35:10 AM
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Well the bike was running good made some changes and now i got a bike that doesn’t run,
Change the ground wire to a bigger one for better charging
Change the thermostat sensor as i never saw the fan come on
And now my injectors are spraying 100% on crack so much that is dripping out the exhaust.
Ps every try i do i remove the plugs and dry them and let the cylinder breath
Here is were im at
Tested the plug on the EFI and is giving me way to much
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-270418012852.png)
Back in December, what were the results of the relay test? Did you test the old coolant temperature sensor before you replaced it?
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The injectors have power always applied to the positive terminal. They are turned on by the ECU grounding the negative terminal. You might possibly have a short circuit to ground in the injector wiring.
Disconnect the injectors, and check the voltage on the terminals with the ignition turned on. One terminal on each connector should have 10v. The other should have nothing.
Turn off the ignition, and check the resistance to ground on the pin that didn't have voltage on it. It should show an open circuit. If not, disconnect the connector on the ECU. If it still doesn't show an open circuit, there is a short to ground in the injector harness. If the short goes away when the ECU is unplugged the problem is in the ECU.
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Did some test tonight and im still lost as hell with this.
I have no volts to the plug with the key on the ON position if i crank it i get 8 to 9 volts to one side of the plug.
Here is what im seeing
(https://s18.postimg.cc/sy0dxww21/A39087_A5-9122-4466-8_B59-185995_F6900_C.jpg)
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Sorry for the doble post and thanks for the help guys
This is the side of the plug im getting positive on
(https://s18.postimg.cc/uptcsykll/BD0_D87_A8-6800-4_BC5-9_BDA-_C9_BFBE2_A2715.jpg)
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I have no volts to the plug with the key on the ON position if i crank it i get 8 to 9 volts to one side of the plug.
That's correct, the FI relay closing the contacts only when the engine is running (or start button pressed).
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That's correct, the FI relay closing the contacts only when the engine is running (or start button pressed).
Good to know something is working . Thanks
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(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-270418012852.png)
Back in December, what were the results of the relay test? Did you test the old coolant temperature sensor before you replaced it?
Got a new relay in, did a test and the temperature sensor is good old and new.
Maybe buy a ECU im clueless on plan of attack not finding much help
Thanks
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The reason to your problem can be seen in the first post, to high resistance at the engine temp sensor
......unless it's very cold in your work room.
As you say two sensors have been found OK, the one have to look elsewhere....what is left is the sensor
contact and the sensor housing to water stub connection....which both must be free of corrosion.
If you measure the same resistance at "E" in the relay socket, the problem is the Connection between
the sensor and the water stub or water stub and engine block.
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The reason to your problem can be seen in the first post, to high resistance at the engine temp sensor
......unless it's very cold in your work room.
As you say two sensors have been found OK, the one have to look elsewhere....what is left is the sensor
contact and the sensor housing to water stub connection....which both must be free of corrosion.
If you measure the same resistance at "E" in the relay socket, the problem is the Connection between
the sensor and the water stub or water stub and engine block.
Now that you point that out the resistance is way to high for my temp im around 65 f work shop
Im going to Mesure resistence at the water temp relay E right now
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Came to 6.5 so temp wise in th negative new sensor was bad?
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As you say two sensors have been found OK, the one have to look elsewhere....what is left is the sensor
contact and the sensor housing to water stub connection....which both must be free of corrosion.
If you measure the same resistance at "E" in the relay socket, the problem is the Connection between
the sensor and the water stub or water stub and engine block.
Came to 6.5 so temp wise in th negative new sensor was bad?
I think what is being said is that if you are getting the same reading at terminal E of the relay socket, you should be sure the coolant temperature sensor plug terminals (double arrowhead) and the socket into which they fit are free of corrosion, and the threads of the coolant temperature sensor (single arrowhead) and the coolant stub it screws into are free of corrosion.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-050518205853.jpeg)
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"If you measure the same resistance at "E" in the relay socket, the problem is the connection between
the sensor and the water stub or water stub and engine block."
The sensor needs to have good ground connection through its brass housing to function properly,
it seems that your sensor haven't got that as you reads the same too high value in both terminals on
a sensor you have earlier proved to be OK.
Is the new sensor OEM or do you shop from the China guys?
How did you measure when you proved the sensor to be OK?
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Removed the newer sensor wich was reading high and install the older one and the fuel water fall stop. So thanks for the help guys sounds alot better cranking and no fuel out the exhaust.
The bike still has a really hard time starting it sounds like a miss fire in cylinder 3 i think the fuel pressure regulator vacum line is dumping fuel in that cylinder, so im going to order a new one.
I think this is due to me switching the to lines coming off the tank at one time,