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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: woodgeek on April 06, 2018, 12:58:28 AM
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Was putting my rear shock back on after checking my final drive splines.... something didn’t look right. The bushing in the shock looked a little cocked. Hmmm... The mounting stud on rear drive housing looks a little cockeyed. And there’s a piece broken off below the stud. Experts, what are my options?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/78f389a406048502b3e3dda5d6d99f85.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/9f64b756bc77158dd13c2d61ef01693b.jpg)
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Experts, what are my options?
I'll fill in for the experts until they arrive. Put a washer on the stud then install your shock.
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greetings...
if that was my moto... i would put a stainless washer on the stud then bolt up my shock...
j o
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Another option is to sell your bike before things get much worse, but consult with a sales expert about that.
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greetings...
caint sell without full disclosure... you need a lawyer...
j o
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Not to disrupt the post count war, I would consider replacing it. If it is a simple R n R. That stud is keeping your bike off your back tire so it can free wheel. Johnny,(our post count lord :giggles ) has posted in another thread about the disastrous results of shock failure (broken shaft I think it was), which resulted in the bike dropping down onto the tire and the consequential results.
http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Baatfam/slideshow/Bike%20Stuff/1996%20K1100RS/Crash?sort=2 (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Baatfam/slideshow/Bike%20Stuff/1996%20K1100RS/Crash?sort=2)
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4647.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4647.0)
I mean shit, it is probably fine, but if the stress that stud has incurred, results in catastrophic failure, it could really suck for you! :oldguy:
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Sell the bike to a lawyer. Can you really trust your ability to replace that stud? If the stud breaks while backing it out, what then? What if the stud extractor breaks, too? What about carpal tunnel syndrome? Was the shock made on a Monday or Wednesday? All of this is just too damned scary.
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greetings...
i have topped out and bottomed out while overloaded 2up on whack roads... those studds are robust...
this thing is a queered out factory 2 fairy 1upper...
nuff said...
j o
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Man, I should know better than to try an run with the big dogs!
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[emoji23] thanks guys. The plan is to bolt the shock back up, get on with the rebuild then ride it like I stole it.[emoji106]
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Yea, that's prolly what I would do. :wave:
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The plan is to bolt the shock back up, get on with the rebuild then ride it like I stole it.(https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
I think you should replace the stud, but before you do that compare the stud hole with one on a final drive that is in certifiably good condition.
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it should come out if you double nut it. I'm more curious on how it got bent, motocrossing, FD off bike and dropped, pulling shock off from top mount, hardtail experiment, paradrop???
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it should come out if you double nut it. I'm more curious on how it got bent, motocrossing, FD off bike and dropped, pulling shock off from top mount, hardtail experiment, paradrop[emoji47]
Could have been motocrossing or a paradrop. There are some dents in a couple of the header pipes—I always wonder how someone does that. So either the previous owner was riding stadium moto-x or he was much heavier than I riding fully loaded luggage through the desert. 🤷♂️[emoji23]
When I remove it, I’ll double nut it and heat it with a torch to soften the loctite. If it’s bent and weakened, I’d hate to have it break off below the surface.
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Looks good to me.
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greetings...
it wont come out without heat or a monkey wrench cause that oe threadlock is forever...
j o
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greetings...
it wont come out without heat or a monkey wrench cause that oe threadlock is forever...
j o
Thanks Johnny :2thumbup:
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greetings...
it wont come out without heat or a monkey wrench cause that oe threadlock is forever...
j o
But they didn't use it on the f'ing grub screws. :dunno2:
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greetings...
it wont come out without heat or a monkey wrench cause that oe threadlock is forever...
j o
Well don't that just suck! Good to know. Guess that is no easy R n R then. Bummer. Well this is a "mocha Chino" right? I mean ya must be pretty talented with a hack saw n drill by now, right? :giggles
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Well don't that just suck! Good to know. Guess that is no easy R n R then. Bummer. Well this is a "mocha Chino" right? I mean ya must be pretty talented with a hack saw n drill by now, right? :giggles
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/e1f2dd10ae6f0c0bb91a48a00c2ce4e8.jpg) [emoji23]
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Ordered a M12x1.5-80mm grade 8 bolt. Will cut it to length once the original stud is removed. Pics to follow.
https://www.belmetric.com/12x15-fine-c-506_510_406/bh12x15x80fclz-hex-bolt-zinc-109-full-p-5605.html (https://www.belmetric.com/12x15-fine-c-506_510_406/bh12x15x80fclz-hex-bolt-zinc-109-full-p-5605.html)
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greetings...
always thought that shock stud needed a slotted nut and cotter pin...
j o
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Ordered a M12x1.5-80mm grade 8 bolt.
The lower shock bolt have normal threads, which is M12x1.75........M12x1.5 is fine metric threads.
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The lower shock bolt have normal threads, which is M12x1.75........M12x1.5 is fine metric threads.
Awww crap. Thanks Inge. I took Rick G's post on the K100-forum as fact. Oh well, I should know by now to measure my own fasteners. Trying to purchase stuff at work without measuring first burns me 50% of the time. At least M12x1.75 is easier to find in full thread.
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on the K100-forum
Have a look at this: http://www.k100-forum.com/t5094-studs-who-wants-a-stud#56575 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5094-studs-who-wants-a-stud#56575)
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Have a look at this: http://www.k100-forum.com/t5094-studs-who-wants-a-stud#56575 (http://www.k100-forum.com/t5094-studs-who-wants-a-stud#56575)
Whoa! That is awesome! Thanks Inge!