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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 06:10:06 PM

Title: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 06:10:06 PM: For reference this is a 1993 BMW K75RT with 99,248 miles that I just purchased 2 days ago.

So I started into my clutch inspection. So far so good. First a questions then the pictures

What do you do with the ABS Brakes and the saddle bag rack? Currently I just have them bungeed up and out of the way (see pic). I have only done the right side so far but will need to do both sides as I am going all the way to the clutch.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318175309-10461266.jpeg)

Now here is the splines at the final drive. I don't think they look too bad, but I'd appreciate all your collective wisdom since this is the first time. BTW what/why is there rusty looking liquid in the final drive and drive train?

Drive Train
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174243-10452193.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174237-1044386.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174222-10421576.jpeg)

Final Drive
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174223-10421618.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174212-1041663.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318174208-1035501.jpeg)

My next step is to get to the clutch.

BTW I'm following along with Chris Harris video as I do this.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: johnny on March 26, 2018, 06:16:23 PM: greetings...

dont wheelie with those splines until you have some spares in your tragkorbs...

j o
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2018, 06:45:15 PM: Those drive shaft splines don't look very good. Final drive looks a little better. I'd be looking for a low mileage drive shaft ASAP. A low mileage final drive probably wouldn't be a bad idea either, but it doesn't look as bad as the shaft.

If you have access to a machine shop, it's possible to replace the worn out splines on the drive shaft with a spline from the U.K..

https://motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K%20Series&bikeref=K100

K 20 SPLINE DRIVESHAFT REPAIR SERVICE K SERIES DRIVESHAFT SPLINE REPLACEMENT A known weak point of the K series before adoption of the paralever design was rapid wear on the output shaft splines that mate with the bevel drive. In 1986 BMW increased the number of teeth from 16 to 20 to give a greater surface area, however this did not entirely overcome the problem. We now provide a repair service for K`s with single shafts where the bevel end splines are replaced with a harder 20 tooth splined collar. Please note that these can only be used with the 1986 on 20 tooth bevel unit. Also check that the bevel unit splines are not worn as it is imperative that both units are in good condition for a long trouble free life. We give a one year guarantee on this service. We repair your original driveshaft and approx turn around time is 10 days. Universal joints are not replaced but are checked. It is important to remember to coat sliding surfaces with (95815) Optimoly T Paste on assembly.

K75 / 100 / 1100 Parts
(https://motobins.co.uk/library/55553.jpg) (https://motobins.co.uk/library/55553.jpg)
(https://motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg) (https://motobins.co.uk/library/55552.jpg)
Part No.55552REPLACEMENT SPLINE FOR 20 SPLINE SHAFTS. [/color]( SPLINE ONLY-THIS REQUIRES WELDING OR SEE 55553 )
[size=.85em]£55.00 ex VAT[/b]
(£66.00 inc VAT)Qty
[/size]
[size=.85em]or ADD to wishlist[/size]
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 08:10:58 PM: So I'm at the point where I need to jack up the motorcycle to take the center stand off and every time I jack it up it lists to the left like it's going to fall over. I'm guessing that the place where I'm trying to jack it up isn't in the center so that's why it's leaning. Any suggestions?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318200816.jpeg)
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 08:32:36 PM: Never mind on the lifting the bike question. Noob moment. Carry on. Nothing to see here. :dunno :falldown:
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: K1300S on March 26, 2018, 08:42:52 PM: that driveshaft is toast. don't bother putting it back on. the final drive splines don't look much better.

get two sawhorses. put a 2x4 through the frame where the battery is. put the ends of the 2x4 on the sawhorses to hang the bike. remove centerstand and trans...
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160118_174606.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160118_174606.jpg.html)

hang the calipers and ABS pumps with zip ties.
(http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp59/mblytle/K75S%20black/20160120_221329_2.jpg) (http://s397.photobucket.com/user/mblytle/media/K75S%20black/20160120_221329_2.jpg.html)
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Laitch on March 26, 2018, 09:25:23 PM: Quote from: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 06:10:06 PM
Now here is the splines at the final drive. I don't think they look too bad, but I'd appreciate all your collective wisdom since this is the first time. BTW what/why is there rusty looking liquid in the final drive and drive train?
I'll join the chorus of doom regarding the driveshaft splines. They could break at any time. The final drive splines are worn, too, but there might be a few thousand miles left on those.

The liquid in the final drive spline shaft could be a combination of gear lube and condensation. Drain the final drive fluid and have a look at it.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 11:02:13 PM: Bummer about the verdict on the splines. I'm guessing this is an indicator of what the transmission splines might look like.

On the upside I found the source of the oil leak. The clutch boot is thrashed.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-260318225704-104935.jpeg)

Tomorrow I should have the transmission out and we'll see just how bad this whole situation is.

Thanks to all of you for chiming in. I appreciate it. :riding:
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 26, 2018, 11:13:16 PM: I think you might find that the transmission splines are okay. Seems the wear is mostly at the final drive end of the shaft. Because the front end is restrained by a snap ring that prevents the splines sliding the wear is less than the other end. Also, wear at the clutch splines is mostly on the clutch, if there is any, not the transmission shaft. The worst case there is that you might have to replace the clutch. That's a lot less than replacing the transmission.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 27, 2018, 07:04:34 PM: I got the Transmission bell housing out, wow is it dirty. I definitely want to clean it before I put it back on. What is the best way to clean the inside and outside of the transmission?

Here are the transmission to drive shaft splines
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184359-1055526.jpeg)

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184352-1054357.jpeg)

Here are the transmission to clutch splines
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184416-10582325.jpeg)

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184420-10592154.jpeg)

Do you think they look ok?

Here is the clutch. Is that clutch dust and oil residue? When I go the transmission apart it did leak oil onto the ground.

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184423-10601193.jpeg)

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-270318184429-10611618.jpeg)

Once I get it clean enough to get the clutch plates marked I'll be talking those off next.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Laitch on March 27, 2018, 07:27:24 PM: The gear position indicator switch resides under the housing indicated by the arrow. Don't spray water onto or around this housing. Once you've cleaned the area, seal the whole unit with silicone or Plastidip to protect it from moisture. During reassembly, if you allow the clutch arm to drop, the new boot might tear so support the arm as the clutch lever cable is being hooked to it.

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/1601-270318191908.jpeg)
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 27, 2018, 09:05:15 PM: Do you think all the oily mess is indicative of a Rear Main Seal failure? I was thinking that I should replace the RMS and also replace the O ring as well while I have it all apart. Thoughts?
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2018, 09:11:13 PM: What I look for with splines is nice wide flat top with sharp edges. That is what they look like when they're new. The narrower the top of the spline is the less life is left in it.

As far as cleaning the transmission, I scrape off as much as possible with a flat blade screwdriver. After that, a small wire brush loosens up and removes some more. Then I spray it with S-100 cycle cleaner and go after it a bit with a stiff brush followed with a good rinse. After that, I can easily live with whatever is left, which isn't hard because I can handle it without getting my hands dirty.

As far as the inside of the clutch housing, I think some years had that finished with a black paint.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2018, 09:18:13 PM: If you're in that far, at least do the o-ring. Those o-rings harden up over the years and stop sealing. I replaced mine with viton, where the original looked like nitrile. While I replaced the rear main seal, I'm pretty sure it didn't need it since there was very little leakage and what there was looked like it was coming from the o-ring.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 27, 2018, 09:20:46 PM: Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on March 27, 2018, 09:11:13 PM
As far as the inside of the clutch housing, I think some years had that finished with a black paint.

What you said about the splines helps a lot, thanks. Also the clutch housing is painted black once I got the oily residue wiped away I could see the paint clearly.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: blackie1 on March 28, 2018, 12:48:00 AM: Gryph, are you able to identify the O ring for me , which you refer to in the above post.
cheers
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Inge K. on March 28, 2018, 01:55:49 AM: # 11.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: blackie1 on March 28, 2018, 05:08:36 AM: thanks
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: rbm on March 28, 2018, 07:55:54 AM: Quote from: brichbk on March 26, 2018, 11:02:13 PM
On the upside I found the source of the oil leak. The clutch boot is thrashed.
Tech tip: Once you do replace the torn clutch boot, don't ever allow the clutch actuator arm to hang free like that. Make sure to secure it to the transmission housing using binding wire through the clutch cable hole and the clutch arm end, like this:
(http://mikep.smugmug.com/Other/K1100LT/i-h7wf2P4/0/L/K1100LT%20%28407%29-L.jpg)

The reason the boot is so torn up is the internal spring's tension is much stronger than the rubber's resilience to it, and the spring tears the thin membrane.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 11:57:09 AM: Thanks for the tip RBM.

Where is the best place to get parts? Do I have to get them from BMW? I see some parts on bikebandit and Bob’s BMW. But what about the clutch boot, RMS, and friction plate (if needed)? I’m hoping to get parts ordered today.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2018, 01:17:20 PM: I get my seals, o-rings and bearings at the local industrial bearing supply house. Their prices are usually pretty similar to BMW's prices, but they almost always have what I need. For OEM parts, I always look at eBay first, and then MAX BMW. If you're careful, you can get some good deals on used parts.

If you need a K75 friction disc, I have a used one here that has a lot of life left in it. It's 5.45mm thick. New is 5.5mm and the wear limit is 4.5mm. $80 and I'll pay the shipping.

I think I have an O-ring too that I'll toss in if I can find it.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 01:45:03 PM: I got the clutch rings out and found my friction plate is 2.5mm, looks like it needs replacing.

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318132926-1063858.jpeg)

the rest of the parts seem to be ok.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318132956-10681744.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318132948-1066141.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318132927-10631446.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318134321-10691304.jpeg)

There is oil gathered below the nut probably means that the O ring has failed, is this correct? Either way I'm replacing it.

Now to get the clutch nut off.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2018, 02:04:46 PM: 2.5mm!!! Are the rivets exposed? Have the rivets torn up the other plates?
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 02:16:08 PM: Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2018, 02:04:46 PM
2.5mm!!! Are the rivets exposed? Have the rivets torn up the other plates?

The engine side of the friction plate rivets are below the surface. The outer side are also just below the surface. The metal clutch rings surfaces feel the same and don't seem to be gouged.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2018, 02:29:57 PM: 2.5 doesn't sound right. Have you double checked the zero on your calipers?
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 04:09:26 PM: Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on March 28, 2018, 02:29:57 PM
2.5 doesn't sound right. Have you double checked the zero on your calipers?

Good call. I recalibrate and measured 4.4-4.3. Still definitely needs to be changed.

I just got back from my local BMW dealership with a bag full of parts. They had everything in stock, except the starburgas NPU 30 PTM and the clutch alignment tool.

I picked up a new Rear Main Seal. The parts guy was talking about the special tool that you use to "form" the seal before you put it on. This was something new to me. I'll be searching the forum for info on this seal installation. Is this special BMW tool really needed to install the seal?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318160652-1071101.jpeg)
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: rbm on March 28, 2018, 04:32:50 PM: No, a special tool is not required. The McGiver method is to use a mallet and wooden block to carefully tap the new seal into place. Proceed carefully, tapping equally around the circumference, measuring with calipers to ensure that the seal is being driven into place straight and true. As you approach the face of the casting, slow down and measure often and stop when the face of the seal is 0.5mm proud of the face of the casting.

Another method is to make a wooden drift greater than the diameter of the seal and glue cardboard onto the driving face of the tool, ensuring that there is a hole in the cardboard slightly larger than the seal diameter. In other words, this cardboard will form an automatic stop when it contacts the casting, ensuring that the seal sits 0.5mm proud of the casting.

In all cases, proceed carefully and resolutely. You're not in a race to finish the job as quickly as possible. Measure often to make sure the seal is being driven straight.

There's no need to form the lip of that seal. It is necessary to form the lip of the timing chain cover seal though, but that's something completely different. Also it's not necessary to soak the seal in oil prior to installation. The new seal uses PTFE which doesn't require pre-lubrication.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 04:45:13 PM: Quote from: rbm on March 28, 2018, 04:32:50 PM
In all cases, proceed carefully and resolutely. You're not in a race to finish the job as quickly as possible. Measure often to make sure the seal is being driven straight.

There's no need to form the lip of that seal.

Thanks for all that advice, especially the "proceed carefully and resolutely". I really want to get this done and I'm working on being patient.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on March 28, 2018, 08:22:41 PM: Well I've made it past the disassembly stage and rounded the corner to the assembly stage.

Got my new Rear Main Seal in. It went in pretty smoothly, tap tap tap tap measure repeat over and over again. I used a cardboard ring (0.5 mm thickness) I made to help make sure I got to the right depth. Here are the tools I used for anyone looking for furture reference.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318201724-10731272.jpeg)

(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/1/5663-280318201723-10722001.jpeg)

Next is reassembly. YEEHAWWW!!!
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: gone_ape on March 28, 2018, 11:19:35 PM: Well, Crap..looks like I'm a couple hours late to share, but maybe this will help the next one up....

Before I installed the rear main seal, I took 2000 grit wet dry paper and polished the output shaft to remove and left over teflon or nitirle or what ever on the shaft.

I made a seal driver using the largest deep well socket I had (36mm) and a 3 1/4' Flat washer rtv'd together, the 36mm socket to fit over the output shaft and once the silicone is set up, it is very strong and still holding together after 4 years or so...

Also, these few special tools are invaluable (well at a menial price anyway) for valve shim service and for sliding the trans in and out for clutch spline lubes... The studs are 4 inch (~100mm) x 8mm bolts with the heads trimmed off...makes reassembly so much easier and minimizes clutch push rod damage especially on the K75.

The inexpensive Clutch alignment tool and valve shim tools are available from:
Kenneth Lively
polepenhollow@yahoo.com
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Laitch on March 29, 2018, 05:50:49 AM: Quote from: gone_ape on March 28, 2018, 11:19:35 PM
I made a seal driver using the largest deep well socket I had (36mm) and a 3 1/4' Flat washer rtv'd together, the 36mm socket to fit over the output shaft and once the silicone is set up, it is very strong and still holding together after 4 years or so . . .
+1
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on April 01, 2018, 09:38:12 PM: First, I got the clutch put together with the clutch alignment tool spinning easily and got everything put back together. I adjusted the clutch according to the Clymers manual I have. It shifts with a little "click" from 0-1 and 2-3-4-5 and back down 5-4-3-2 but going from 1-2 gear it makes a "crruch" noise and same from 2-1 when downshifting (but if at a stands still it does find going from 2-1). Is there more adjustment I need to make?

Secondly, it seems to be slow to accelerate, is this normal? I really only notice it when it's below 2.5k-3k RPM. It really seems to be bad when starting out. I"m not sure if it's related to the above clutch adjustment or not. EDIT: I should also say I just put gas in it for the first time and I just filled the tank of Chevron Supreme (3.5 gal). I don't know if the PO had it sitting or not.

Once I get it going it rides smooth.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: johnny on April 01, 2018, 09:44:47 PM: greetings...

1 to 2 and 2 to 1 have to be made with authority on these motos...

j o
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 01, 2018, 10:00:57 PM: I can't say why, maybe because it's going through neutral, but shifts between 1st and 2nd are harder than the others. There seems to be a technique to making that shift that comes from experience with the bike, at least with my bikes. The amount of clutch pull, and the timing with the actual shift seems to have an effect.

I also found that putting molybdenum powder in the transmission makes things work noticeably smoother. A couple heaping tablespoons in the transmission on top of the oil and a hundred miles to work it in.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Laitch on April 01, 2018, 10:47:34 PM: Quote from: brichbk on April 01, 2018, 09:38:12 PM
Secondly, it seems to be slow to accelerate, is this normal?
No. If you twist the throttle when it seems to be slow to accelerate, do the revs increase despite slow acceleration?

What did you use for spline lube? How much did you use? Did you lubricate the push rod arm and release bearing? Do you have the side stand release operating smoothly? Review your clutch adjustment measurements—clutch lever free play, cable distance between sheathing and nipple. Then reset the adjusting bolt according to the procedure. What is the level of the transmission fluid when the bike has not been run?

Properly adjusted and lubricated clutch release components and a new clutch disc should allow you to click in and out of gear without "crunching." An excessively high idle can cause "crunching". What is the rev count at idle?

There might have been a problem created when you assembled the boot and its related components or there could be linkage binding and/or improper cable adjustment.

If this were happening with my bike, I'd be compelled to review the assembly and measurement of each component group, starting with the clutch cable, lever and release arm assemblies—checking the affect as I proceed. It's probably some incorrect adjustment easily remedied.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on April 02, 2018, 01:03:23 AM: Quote from: Laitch on April 01, 2018, 10:47:34 PM
No. If you twist the throttle when it seems to be slow to accelerate, do the revs increase despite slow acceleration?

The RPM's increase at the same rate the bike accelerates. I'm wondering if it might be a throttle cable issue?

Quote from: Laitch on April 01, 2018, 10:47:34 PM
1. What did you use for spline lube? 2. How much did you use? 3. Did you lubricate the push rod arm and release bearing? 4. Do you have the side stand release operating smoothly? 5. Review your clutch adjustment measurements—clutch lever free play, cable distance between sheathing and nipple. Then reset the adjusting bolt according to the procedure. 6. What is the level of the transmission fluid when the bike has not been run?

1. Staburagaus NBU 30 PTU
2. About the same amount as the Chris Harris video shows
3. Yes
4. It was disconnected by the PO
5. I redid the procedure and it is working much better. I used a piece of stiff wire to measure the clutch cable to get it to 73mm where it was 55mm before. There is just a little "kerchunk" when going from 1st gear to 2nd gear.
6. Have not measured the transmission fluid yet. I'll have to look that up.

Quote from: Laitch on April 01, 2018, 10:47:34 PM
Properly adjusted and lubricated clutch release components and a new clutch disc should allow you to click in and out of gear without "crunching." An excessively high idle can cause "crunching". What is the rev count at idle?

There might have been a problem created when you assembled the boot and its related components or there could be linkage binding and/or improper cable adjustment.

If this were happening with my bike, I'd be compelled to review the assembly and measurement of each component group, starting with the clutch cable, lever and release arm assemblies—checking the affect as I proceed. It's probably some incorrect adjustment easily remedied.

Idle is between 800-1,000 RPM
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on April 02, 2018, 01:04:09 PM: Quote from: Laitch on April 01, 2018, 10:47:34 PM
What is the level of the transmission fluid when the bike has not been run?

Checked the Transmission fluid and found it to be low. I added about .55l (550ml) to the transmission to bring it up a safe level without going over the max.

I'm going to move my acceleration issues to a new thread.
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on April 02, 2018, 01:19:59 PM: It was a HALF LITER LOW?!! :eek:
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: Laitch on April 02, 2018, 04:58:08 PM: Quote from: brichbk on April 02, 2018, 01:04:09 PM
Checked the Transmission fluid and found it to be low. I added about .55l (550ml) to the transmission to bring it up a safe level without going over the max..
Quote from: The Mighty Gryphon on April 02, 2018, 01:19:59 PM
It was a HALF LITER LOW?!! :eek:
The correct fluid level might quiet the crunch. :wave: If you over-filled it might start leaking.

You're asserting it accelerates slowly. Did you ride the bike before you started all this work on it?
Title: Re: First Full Spline Job and clutch inspection - '93 K75RT 99k miles
Post by: brichbk on April 03, 2018, 12:10:29 AM: Quote from: Laitch on April 02, 2018, 04:58:08 PM
The correct fluid level might quiet the crunch. :wave: If you over-filled it might start leaking.

You're asserting it accelerates slowly. Did you ride the bike before you started all this work on it?

I found this thread that describes the issue and the video sounds like what I am experiencing. I figured I'd start with trying to find an air leak.

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4157.0 (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=4157.0)