MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: Wollyjumperuk on March 17, 2018, 02:34:29 PM
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Greetings :mm ,
I have just moved on my last project and I would like to share with all of you my next project - a BMW K75RT Ultima.
As you may know, the Ultima is the final addition of these 3 cylinder engined motorbikes so beloved by police across the UK and Europe.
I picked this up from the father of a good friend, so I know the history and I know mechanically the bike is solid, so it is mainly cosmetic work I'm undertaking on this one.
For those of you interested, you can follow the progress of the restoration via MotorcycleProjects on Wordpress.com
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Looks like the link didn't work - here it is so you can go straight to it ... http://motorcycleprojects .wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects .wordpress.com)
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Good thing I'm much better with suck - squeeze - bang - blow than micro-processors!
Let's try the link again ... [size=78%]https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/bmw/bmw_k75c%2085.htm)[/size]
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The father of a good friend has been considering selling his bike for a while and wanted to ensure it would go to someone who appreciated it. After a few cups of coffee and conversations about the bike over more than a year, and knowing the bike is pretty much there mechanically, it felt right to buy the bike and bring it back up to 100% cosmetically.
After getting the bike home, the bike had the once over to see what needed doing. After going through the history of the bike, it looks like the bike has always had genuine parts, so this will be continued as much as possible.
The initial to do list consists of:
>Sticky Rear Brake Light Switch
>tragkorb Hinges Cracked
>Dashboard Light
>Corroded Brake Line Fittings
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_04311576985254.jpg?w=300&h=169)
>Paint Damage on Engine, Gearbox, Frame, Fork Stantion and Bevel Box
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_04291997825792.jpg?w=300&h=169)
>Paint Damage on Rear Wheel
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_04351124171413.jpg?w=300&h=169)
>Paint Damage on Bodywork
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_0432174533585.jpg?w=300&h=169)
>Bubbling RHS Fairing Pocket Cover
>Corroded Nuts & Bolts
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_0438284266745.jpg?w=300&h=169)
I try to take my time over projects, with these usually taking 18 months plus - so please watch this space for updates.
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Welcome, Wolly!
Your project is certain to be of interest here. Good luck with it.
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Looking at your list it sounds like a fairly straightforward and very satisfying project ahead for you.
I like replacing nasty looking fasteners with stainless steel. A lot of them for stuff that isn't heavily stressed where the original is M5 or M6(fairing panels, timing chain cover, etc.) can be the cheaper grade. Just remember to reduce the torque on them by about 10% and use copper anti-seize. I get mine in bulk fairly cheaply on eBay, or you can buy a complete kit that has just what you need.
With the age of the bike, you might want to replace the original brake lines with stainless steel braided along with new fittings. Most of the places that sell the lines include new fittings.
A good inspection of the fuel lines and breather hose is in order. You might just want to plan on replacing them if they don't look almost new.
If you can, see if you can find some S-100 for cleaning parts. I have found that it is a super quick way to remove a lot of old dirt and grime and bring parts back to looking almost new. When I am doing work on a bike, as soon as I remove something it goes to the laundry and gets a cleaning before I do anything else. It's so pleasant to handle and work on clean parts.
Good luck with your project.
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Cheers for the advice Mighty Gryphon :2thumbup: , it looks like we are thinking along the same lines regarding the brake lines, hoses and fixings.
I'll keep an eye out for S-100, I tend to clean parts before I do any work with them but if the S-100 can make cleaning easier, I'm all for it!
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With the bike safely in the garage and up on the ramp, it was time to remove the bodywork to see how bad the corrosion was on the frame, so see how far I'd have to get into the bike.
Starting from the back, all the parts were removed from the frame methodically, with all of the bolts replaced in the threads they came from ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_0028582379389.jpg?w=300&h=169)
... all electrical connections marked before disconnection and photos taken of all the cable runs to ensure re-build as close as possible to original.
During the strip down only 2 fixings were so corroded that they had seized, unsurprisingly both of these were at the rear of the from, where these are directly exposed to the elements ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_0032993004724.jpg?w=300&h=169)
... using PlusGas disassembly penetrant, a heat gun and (briefly) an impact driver, these were coaxed out - I can't stand sheered bolts and studs, so I tend to spend the time trying to coax these out. As you can see from the picture the corrosion to the back end of the frame was extensive, so I decided to remove the front fairings to see how far forward it goes and if I'd need to take the frame off the engine to sort the corrosion to my satisfaction.
The only challenge to removing the front fairing was getting the mirrors off the fairing. I did a fair amount of research into mirror removal, as the method to get these off seemed a bit brutal - at effectively hitting these with your palm from below, as hard as you can, to get these to 'pop off' ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/03/dsc_00371746625724.jpg?w=300&h=169)
... in the end I used a large flat head screw-driver between the fairing and the mirror to 'pop' these off, fitting by fitting.
Following this the front end was pretty straight forward with all the fixings coming off cleanly, with no seized items at all and even a spare key fount cable-tied inside the front fairing! The nose fairing came off with the 6 bolts and the electrical connections were labelled and section taken off.
[/size]
I was expecting the corrosion to the rear, as the frame is really not protected from the dirt the rear wheel flings up, but there is evidence of corrosion all the way up to the front fairing sub-frame, not as bad as the rear of the bike, but enough to require the frame to come off of the engine to get it sorted.
For more information, please take a look at my bl[/size]og at https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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The only challenge to removing the front fairing was getting the mirrors off the fairing. I did a fair amount of research into mirror removal, as the method to get these off seemed a bit brutal - at effectively hitting these with your palm from below, as hard as you can, to get these to 'pop off' ...
... in the end I used a large flat head screw-driver between the fairing and the mirror to 'pop' these off, fitting by fitting.
Don't sweat it. These bikes are German. They appreciate a good slap now and then. :D
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With it clear that the frame of the bike was fairly corroded, it needed to come off to be sorted, so began the parting of the engine and the frame.
It started with an emptying of the coolant by disconnecting the hose at the lowest point and letting it drain before removing the radiator to reveal ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_0061987240601.jpg?w=680)
... the corrosion at the front of the frame was worse than seen on the rest of the frame - supporting the decision to remove and treat the frame.
The brake system was bled down and the lines disconnected where they pass though the frame before the engine block was supported in preparation.
The front wheel was dropped out and the frame unbolted to allow the frame and forks to be removed in one section ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_01381451452643.jpg?w=680)
... leaving the engine and transmission standing ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_0137918377443.jpg?w=680)
... to be tackled next, alongside an oil leak from the rear of the gearbox, discovered just after the frame was released and removed.
For more information, please take a look at my bl[/size]og at https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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The starting point was removal of the rear wheel and draining the oil out of the rear bevel box as I am going to change it anyway – I might as well get it as light to handle as possible! And it was just as well, as the oil that came out did look a little past it’s best.
[/size][/color]Following this the rear bevel box was unbolted and eased off the end of the swingarm and the drive shaft connector, bearing and smooth operation checked and all found to be very good with no play, so no further disassembly at this time here.[/font]
[/size][/color]Following the bevel box, the next component forward was the swing arm, the 2 stub axles were removed and this was eased away from the gearbox and slid off the drive shaft. The swingarm needs a good clean before an inspection can be properly done, so that’s for later.[/font]
[/size][/color]With the removal of the swingarm, support of the motor was somewhat lacking, so a few wooded chocks were put in to aid the bottle jack and the main stand to maintain stability …[/font]
[/size][/color](https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_01601592858111.jpg?w=300&h=169)[/font]
[/size][/color]… this support would later be supplemented with a ratchet strap over the garage roof beam to give a little reassurance.[/font]
[/size][/color]Looking toward removing the gearbox unit, it was clear the only other parts needing removing at this time was the alternator and the starter motor. These were both unbolted and eased out leaving a small pile of worn-off alternator cush drive rubber, so this goes on the replacement list too.[/font]
[/size][/color]The remainder of the wiring loom, coil packs, airbox assembly and throttle bodies were taken off with little effort, leaving the injectors to be eased out followed by the manifold stubs and coolant post.[/font]
[/size][/color]Unfortunately, both the front manifold stub and coolant post had seized bolts, 3 in total one sheered stud could be wound out by locking 2 nuts together on the stud (thankfully the thread was OK), and the stud wound out after some gentle heating and constant, steady application of pressure on the lower nut against the lock nut …[/font]
[/size][/color](https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_0210842884267.jpg?w=300&h=169)[/font]
[/size][/color]… I was not quite so lucky with the other 2 studs. Here starts on-off work on these over a 2 week period.[/font]
[/size][/color]After many attempts to remove, , these were ground flush, drilled and tapped before the replacement bolt was run into the hole – success![/font]
[/size][/color]With the inlet manifold done, it was time to move onto extracting the gearbox. As this would mean turning the engine onto it’s leading face, the oil filter was drained (by punching 2 holes in it so it could drain) and the engine flipped the stands removed and the gearbox bolts undone. To aid things, a ratchet strap was threaded through the swingarm mounting holes and the slack taken up. The gearbox was tapped round with a rubber mallet to get it moving before the ratchet was used…[/font]
[/size][/color](https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/dsc_0240498933557.jpg?w=169&h=300)[/font]
[/size][/color]… to lift the gearbox away.[/font]
[/size][/color]The last part of the disassembly was the removal of the exhaust headers. So the engine was rolled so it was upside-down and the exhaust header studs given a coat of PlusGas and left to soak overnight.[/font]
[/size][/color]Once soaked, the nuts were heated up to expand them off the studs but they won’t budge and we’re rounded due to corrosion. A nut splitter was used to deform the nuts and provide something to grip on and an easy out socket used this worked with just a few nuts having to be beaten round.[/font]
[/size][/color]With that done, the major disassembly is complete… time to start the process of rebuilding![/font]
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greetings...
very interested in your renovation... however that is one f-ed up post... unreadable at best...
you outta getts some seperation in there...
j o
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Yes, it is pretty shocking - unfortunately I failed to use the preview button and there does not seem to be a way to edit this once posted.
Just as well I'm better with metal than with silicone!
Please feel free to check out https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/) for a cleaner version
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... there does not seem to be a way to edit this once posted.
Once you hit the magical number of posts you'll unlock the "Edit" feature.
(The number is 10. You're almost there...)
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The stand assembly was clamped in the vice ready for the disassembly. Everything was undone and disassembled, the stubborn bolt was lubricated and heated and pressure kept on the bolt until it released.
All the loose bits were put in a bucket, part cleaner added and diluted and left the soak overnight. After soaking the water was definitely dirty and the parts vaguely cleaner!
With everything taken apart and spread out to check everything is here...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_02612140660968.jpg?w=680)
... and any parts damaged beyond use or repair were replaced.
The side stand - clutch interlock was particularly caked in road crud, so it went from fresh off the bike (top left) to being soaked in Muc-Off cleaner and being scrubbed (bottom left) degreased (bottom right) and polished up using Autosol Metal Polish, fine wire wool, soft cloth and a polishing mop on a drill (top right)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/20180506_171127-collage1008635731.jpg?w=680)
... this was also done to the other required non-painted parts.
The stand mounting bracket and both stands were stripped back with a wire brush drill attachment removing all the old paint and corrosion before masking up, spring holders masked by using o-rings (as the springs will kill the paint anyway) and priming with 2 coats of Autotek Etch Primer, followed by 2 coats of Halfords Gloss Black Enamel (typically running out of paint half way through, so had to run and get some more) and finally 2 coats of Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer. With 24 hours left between each change in paint and everything left to completely cure for a further week once completed.
Once cured, all the parts were pulled together and the stand assembly rebuilt...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_0308104661587.jpg?w=680)
... ready to be bolted back onto the gearbox.
N. B. The springs will be added once the stands are on the engine/transmission assembly for ease of leverage.
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The engine and gearbox were cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner, elbow grease and a fair amount of soaking time!
On further research, it looks like the oil seen leaking from the clutch pushrod boot was to be expected when the plunger is removed. But that leak and the weep seen on the input side...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_0299732314016.jpg?w=680)
... coupled with the greasy residue in the clutch housing as well as the oily residue on the underside of the clutch housing seen during disassembly, I decided a new input shaft and clutch pushrod seal would be worth fitting as I was here anyway.
The input seal replacement was fairly straightforward (if long winded), consisting of popping the front cover, remembering to remove the neutral bolt, spring and ball bearing, and levering out the old seal...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_03251134361130.jpg?w=680)
... drifting out the seal plug for the neutral are and using an M8 bolt in the seal plug hole to hold this back, cleaning up and smearing a small amount of gasket sealant on the mating faces, ensuring all the shims are aligned and easing the cover back onto the locating pins and tapping into place with a mallet, before removing the M8 bolt to allow the neutral arm to return, refitting the ball bearing, spring and bolt ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_0329574212042.jpg?w=680)
... and easing the new input seal over the input shaft and using a socket to seat this flush with the cover.
The clutch pushrod seal at the rear of the gearbox was a little more awkward, being a case of the seal that doesn't want to shift. I started with a small dentist style tool to get behind the seal, but this wouldn't budge (after an hour or so of gentle coaxing). While scratching my head, I decided on folding the metal part of the seal inward and across the hole for the pushrod. With that done, the pushrod was reinserted and gently tapped with a mallet, drifted the seal out.
The outside of the gearbox was given a stiff wire brushing, a wipe down to remove the loose stuff and a coat of engine paint (as it was the best match for the original I had)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_03121922203160.jpg?w=680)
While I had the paint out, I thought I'd get the engine block ready for reassembly, with the areas needing attention were cleaned up with a wire brush and cellulose thinners before 2 coats of the engine enamel paint were applied and left to cure for 2 weeks (while I jumped on my Triumph and disappeared to Scotland... Well, it'd be rude to stand and stare at drying paint).
Once cured (and after the holiday), the clutch pushrod seal needed to be fitted, the gearbox was sat input side down, chocked up on wooden blocks, with the pushrod installed and the seal slid onto the pushrod and a deep 10mm socket used, with a rubber mallet, to push the seal into place. As I was trying to be gentle, drifting the seal in did take some time.
With all that done, it was time to mate the two parts!
The pushrod was used as a guide to slide the gearbox into place, before the lugs were used to locate the gearbox and the bolts installed and torqued down.
As I was here, I took the opportunity to install the stands...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_04202089650410.jpg?w=680)
... ready for the assembly to be flipped over so the engine casings can be worked on.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the engine and gearbox back together, it was time for the clutch pushrod arm and refitting of the side stand interlock arm.
Starting with laying out of the parts for the pushrod arm assembly...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_03141757677593.jpg?w=680)
... everything was cleaned up, firstly by scrapping off the crud, then with liberal use of Muc-Off cleaner and a stiff brush.
The arm was then taken back to bare metal with a wire brush attachment on a drill, before Autotek Etch Primer, 2 coats of Hycote Stoneguard Black and a further 2 of Hycote Clear Lacquer before leaving to cure.
With that done, the slider, spring and boot were refitted to the... But it didn't look right. So the gearbox had to come back off and the pushrod removed, the slider, spring and boot refitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_04241173176246.jpg?w=680)
... the pushrod refitted before the gearbox was reattached to the engine. Probably should have read the Haynes manual before I started! Oh well, lesson learned.
The arm was greased and slid into place and the pin greased before being refitted, and the circlip sworn at until it was back on!
On the other end of the pin, the clutch interlock arm was fitted followed by the washer, circlip (more swearing) and the return spring. This was then mated to the push assembly on the side stand...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/05/dsc_0430309281695.jpg?w=680)
... and operation checked before moving on.
The stand bearings were greased via the nipples and spring grooves greased, before the excess was cleaned off.
The last stage was the side and main stand springs. Given I've hurt myself before with trying to use pliers for this, I ordered a spring puller tool (glorified hook with a handle).
Once the tool arrived the springs were pulled into position, so the whole assembly could then be turned over...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0443176126807.jpg?w=680)
... ready to crack on with the swingarm!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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While you are at this stage you might want to add a grease nipple to the clutch arm. It will give you the ability to push out the accumulated road crap. And it should help prolong the life of your clutch cable and your arm.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks for the updates, a very interesting project :popcorm
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Carrying on rearward of the gearbox, it was time for the swingarm and drive shaft.
As usual, all the parts were laid out…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0433613209884.jpg?w=300&h=169)
… and everything got a good clean, before being inspected. Thankfully everything was found to be in good shape, so no replacements needed but the swingarm itself needed repainting.
So, as usual, this was prepared by remo in the loose material and keying the surface, primed with Autotek Etch Primer, top coated with Halfords Enamel Gloss Black (for the robustness of the enamel paint), finished with Halfords Enamel Clear Lacquer and left to cure for a few days.
Before all the bits were put back together…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_046311142516.jpg?w=300&h=169)
… the rubber boot put back on the gearbox end of the swingarm and the retaining clip added (don’t try to put the clip in the boot first, it doesn’t work very well and cost me time trying to be clever!).
The gearbox output spline was greased… now there is a huge amount of debate here on what grease to use, for me it was a case of a good clean and a smear of general purpose or bearing grease if you have it, but the debate is to be had (see the threads on the rest of motobrick.com)… the swingarm was aligned until the boot popped into place and the sub axles slotted in…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04672063102081.jpg?w=300&h=169)
… with the bevel box end supported with an axle stand.
The fixed stub axle was pushed all the way home before the bolts were torqued up, with the adjustable stub axle was wound all the way in to preload the bearings before being slackened off, torqued up, the locking nut applied and also torqued up.
With the gearbox output spline already lubricated, the universal joint and spline on the end of the drive shaft were cleaned and lubricated before being fitted via the swingarm.
Following this, I had a look around and discovered the boot of the clutch pushrod had split on refitting, so the clutch pushrod arm was removed to allow the boot to be removed, so a new one was ordered. And, with the pushrod arm off, I thought I’d take the advice from Martin (see above) and add a grease nipple here.
As always, if you'd like further details, please seehttps://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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Taking the forum advice on motorbrick.com, and while the arm was off to replace the clutch pushrod boot, I took the opportunity to fit a grease nipple.
So, the first step was to measure where I wanted the nipple to be and mark that with a punch...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04551632620595.jpg?w=680)
... the area masked up and a pilot hole drilled at 2.5mm diameter, which was then enlarged to 5mm diameter and tapped out to an M6 thread with a 1.0 pitch before the inside of the hole, as well as the shaft bore was cleaned out and the grease nipple fitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04611025911063.jpg?w=680)
... the masking removed and was ready to go.
The replacement clutch pushrod boot was replaced, typically the bolt on the securing ring sheered so that was replaced, before the clutch pushrod arm refitted and greased via the new nipple and cleaned up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_048373102769.jpg?w=680)
... job done!
As always, if you'd like further details, please seehttps://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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To finish off the back-end of the transmission, time to get the bevel box re-finished and fitted. The oil was drained out during the strip down, and will be put back in during the commissioning after all the cosmetic work is done.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0438468119412.jpg?w=680)
Firstly the brake disk was taken off so the overall condition of the bevel box could be assessed. Fair to say that it really did need a new paint finish and the splines greasing up, other than that everything moved freely with no resistance - so no new bearings needed! Even more of a bonus was that there was no evidence of oil leaks, so all the seals were good.
To prepare the bevel box for painting each of the holes was plugged with blue roll, to prevent any loose crud getting into the oil chamber and causing damage and the bevel box was split by taking out the retaining bolts (popping it in a vice really helped here!) before using a bar between the box section around the drive input and the rear brake caliper mounts to ease the cover and internals away.
This showed the state of the internal seal and it's fair to say I was surprised the main seal wasn't leaking! Both the sealing face and recess of the main body, the sealing face of the cover as well as the channel for the main seal was corroded quite badly. So much so ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0445600944113.jpg?w=680)
... that the main seal had to be thrown away as the corrosion had pressed on the seal and caused a significant kink, meaning if the seal could be cleaned up, it was unlikely to give the best seal possible - so for a few £££ the seal would be replaced.
All of the corrosion was taken back, initially with a scraper before fine wet and dry sand paper to tidy the corroded areas. As much of the remaining oil in the bevel box was mopped up before the halves being placed to allow the oil to drain for a few days.
Once as much of the oil that was going to come out had come out, the process of masking up ready for paint preparation began. Starting with covering the internals attached to the bevel box cover followed by the outer seal, mating faces of the retaining bolt holes and the mating faces for the rear caliper being masked off ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04491496001210.jpg?w=680)
... ready for the worn paint work was removed back to bare metal where really bag and otherwise heavily scuffed to give a good key for the paint (with the back case treated in the same manner). A good smooth grade between the 2 areas was achieved with more wet and dry paper across the interfaces to remove any lip.
The 2 halves then had the usual 2 coats of Autotek Etch Primer, 2 coats of Halfords Enamel Gloss Black and 2 coats of Halfords Enamel Clear Lacquer and left to cure before being de-masked and brought back together with the other parts of the bevel box.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04861029140871.jpg?w=680)
The new main seal was popped onto the bevel box cover the drive shaft and bevel box input splines were cleaned and lubricated up ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0487557296947.jpg?w=680)
... before the casing of the bevel box was bolted back onto the swing arm. The swingarm and bevel box were again supported on an axle stand with news paper on to protect the paint finish ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_04881166053834.jpg?w=680)
... and allow support while the cover was replaced on the back casing. This was done by replacing 3 bolts equally spaced at every other hole and each tightened a turn at a time to ease the cover back on square. Once in, the other bolts were added and all bolts were torqued up ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0490800782944.jpg?w=680)
... before the cleaned filler and drain plugs (fitted with new copper washers), speedo drive, breather o-ring and cap as well as the nut for the suspension were put back onto the unit.
With that lot done , the gearbox was put into first to prevent the drive rotating and the rear brake disc was checked for warping (as this seems to be a common issue) and wear, both were fine and the disk was put back on the drive, bolts fitted with blue threadlock and torqued up.
For ease of moving the engine and transmission unit, the rear wheel with shim was temporarily bolted back on and hand tightened ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0493353989194.jpg?w=680)
... this made the engine and transmission unit move-able, just in case I needed the bike lift for anything else.
The next aim is to make the unit even more easy to move by getting to having a rolling frame and engine assembly - so onto the frame and I suspect a fair amount of wire wheel action to come!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the gearbox done, it was time to start bolting bits back to the top of it.
All the parts were laid out and the scrotator checked for free operation…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05761862973379.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… which was the case, nice smooth rotation with no signs of bearing wear or restriction in rotation. From riding the bike home I know the unit is working well electrically, so the parts had a clean up as a unit (no need to dismantle a perfectly good item).
The seating was cleaned up to allow the unit to be refitted into the back of the bell housing.
The cush drive rubbers were refitted and offered up to the drive on the bell housing and wiggled to initiate engagement. Each of the bolts was given a few turns to hold the unit in place and then each of the 3 bolts had a turn added in a clockwise sequence to ease the cush drive onto the drive tabs.
With this eased into place, I tried to rotate the drive to check for any bagginess in the drive (well pushed my finger int he gap to try and try to rock the drive) and there was no wiggle at all, so the cush drive rubbers were a tight enough fit.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05781793937965.jpg?w=676&h=380)
With the unit in, the bung in the starter motor insert was removed and the slot for the starter motor in the bell housing cleaned up ready for the motor.
Again, I knew this was good from the ride home, so only a double check was conducted with e feed directly from the battery and was found to be in good order.
Before refitting the o-ring was checked and it looked good, so this was smeared with some new engine oil to aid in fitting …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/20180701_1039051497886733.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… before being slotted in and bolted down.
The continuity (resistance) between the starter motor and the gearbox/engine casing was checked to make sure of a good earth and ensure clean operation (especially as the gearbox mountings have been painted around) …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0587328330994.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… and, again, this was found to be good to go.
With the electrical units fitted into the back of the bell housing ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05881750675714.jpg?w=676&h=380)
The electrical unit cover was a little broken, so a little super glue was used with the crack now only visible under quite a harsh light.
There were a few splodges of silver paint (similar to those seen on the gearbox and the frame), these were taken off with a blade held perpendicular to the surface.
The last step was the fitting of the cover, with shiny new stainless bolts replacing the corroded originals.a
A nice quick job to keep the momentum going while various items are being painted (asthe going seems rather slow, so I had to do something) …
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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So, the state of the frame was the reason I decided to go as far as I have into the bike rather than do a general re-fresh as was originally intended.
There was extensive surface corrosion on the rear end and the lower portion of the leading arms (where the radiator mounts) but fundamentally the frame was solid.
The frame was extensively stripped using a wire wheel attachment on the trusty old drill before the hard to reach stuff was chemically peeled, using No.1 Green Paint Stripper, leaving a pretty clean frame …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05121085368386.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… with the tougher corrosion seen before, taken back with a lapping wheel on a grinder to a suitable painting surface.
With this done (and the headstock bearing falling apart when I took the yokes off) the headstock bearing races were pulled out and replacements ordered. The fluidbloc steering damper was masked into the headstock and not removed as this was in good condition and felt good when I was riding the bike back to the garage originally.
Due to the extent of the corrosion across the frame before I stripped it, and the use of a solid steel frame (which is not a light thing!), I took the step of Kurust-ing the entire frame …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05411524230556.jpg?w=676&h=379)
… before sealing the frame to stop the chemical reaction by applying a coat of primer (as directed by the Kurust), returning to the trusty Hycote Red Primer to allow a clear indication of coating against the silver of the bare frame.
Following this, the entire frame was given another coat of primer before 2 colour coats and 2 of lacquer…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0611522411300.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… before being left for a week to cure off.
The tired mounting bolts were replaced with stainless steel upgrades and used to secure the frame onto the engine and transmission assembly...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0633585816125.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… and jobs a good ‘un!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the frame ready for the yokes, it was time to get them done. The yokes were in fairly good condition but a few dings and a headstock bearing which fell apart on removal from the frame, this’ll get the works.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0496762436027.jpg?w=676&h=380)
It’s worth nothing at this point these are marked as Showa yokes on both top and bottom yoke.
I wound the top yoke off the stem and drifted the upper headstock bearing holder out off the yoke and pushed this out until it was free with the upper headstock bearing drifted out of the holder via the 2 drift holes.
The lower bearing was drifted off the bottom yoke, using the 2 drift holes…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0505143574454.jpg?w=676&h=379)
and that is everything disassembled.
The yokes themselves, as the largest components, were treated first. These were stripped by a wire brush attachment on a drill and masked up before being brought together with the front fork lowers and bridging piece ready for painting.
The top yoke, bottom yoke and handlebar clamps were masked up to prevent pain getting on the bearing surfaces for the forks and the handlebars, before they were treated to Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Enamel Gloss Black and Halfords Enamel Clear Lacquer and put aside to cure.
While that was curing, the rest of the parts were inspected for corrosion …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0635323192837.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… and cleaned up to allow reassembly…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06361016443197.jpg?w=676&h=380)
With the headstock bearings falling apart when these were removed and therefore the bottom races removed from the headstock during the frame work, it was time to replace these ready for the yokes to go back on.
To achieve this a tool was made up from penny washers, standard washers, M8 threaded bar and a couple of nuts.
The headstock slots for the races were cleaned up and the new bottom races were pushed into the headstock and aligned by hand and measuring tool before the made up tool was added and would up to take out the slack …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06431219252994.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… over the next hour or so, the nuts were tightened by 1/4 turn and the alignment checked, the tool repostioned, slack taken up and the tool tightened by 1/4 turn and the process continued until these were firmly in their seating slots.
The bearings and top race were then added to the bottom yoke, the new dust seal put in place before the steering stem was lightly lubricated with fork oil (because that is what I had out at the time) and the bearings and race heated up evenly with a blow torch for about 30 seconds and popped over the steering stem, and they slotted directly into place, no drifting required.
The process was repeated with the top race nut and both allowed to cool before continuing (time for a cuppa!).
Both of the bearings were then greased up with bearing grease and the lower yoke slide into the headstock and the top bearing nut applied to hold it in place. The top nut was tightened as tight as I felt appropriate (using a universal grab/super wrench to ease the job) to preload the bearings …
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0648903430069.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… before the top nut being slackened off and retightened by hand to just dial out any freeplay when rocking the bottom yoke.
The top yoke was then applied, by fitting above the top nut and using a mallet to drive the yoke onto the top bearing nut, and the fork stantions bolted into the yokes to align them ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0653787582482.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… before the stem bolt and locking nut were fitted and torqued up, the stantions removed and the job completed – looking good!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/
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With the yokes in progress and aiming to be ready for the forks, it was time to get them moving.
Each fork was dismantled in turn and all the parts for each kept separate to avoid mixing these up.
First off was the top cap ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_0518936939803.jpg?w=676&h=380)
... the drain plug removed and the oil caught (not before I got an oily leg!) in a bucket, while this was draining the dust seal and oil seal clip were removed.
Once drained, the drain plug was popped back in and the fork chucked in the vice horizontally…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05204723905.jpg?w=676&h=379)
… so the damper retaining bolt could be taken out. And the stantion sharply pulled to strike the bushes against the (leaking) oil seal repeatedly to drive this out and release the lower so the stantion could be put back in the vice.
To release the fork internals, a deep socket was put on the top of the fork cap and fork spring compressed with a ratchet strap holding the compressed internals steady while I (climbed on the bench due to the height) released the retaining clip with 2 picks...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/dsc_05251317027689.jpg)
... the strap released and the top cap removed.
The stantion was the laid horizontal in the vice and the damper rod pushed into the fork to push the internals out of the far end.
The lowers were cleaned up and given the wire brush drill attachment treatment ready to be brought together with the yoke parts and bridging piece so these can be primed, colour coated and lacquered.
With the fork lowers a bridging piece primed, colour coated and lacquered, everything for the forks was brought back together (including the new progressive springs) ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06161907446242.jpg?w=680)
... and reassembly started, one fork at a time.
Firstly the damper rod and spring assembly were slotted into the stantion and the new progressive spring added with the spacer left out due to the longer spring. The top washer was added, o-ring replaced and smeared with fork oil before fitting onto the fork top cap and compressed, so the cap was low enough in the stantion to allow the snap ring to be installed, and allow the compression to be released before removing from the vice...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06231531280895.jpg?w=680)
... the stantion was fitted with the lower bushing and stop before being slid into the lower slider and the damper rod bolt with new washer fitted alongside new fittings, replacing the old furry parts with shiny new ones.
The upper bushing was fitted with a seal driver, seal washer added, oil seal smeared with fork oil and fitted with the seal driver, followed by the retaining clip...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0661460269517.jpg?w=680)
... and, following the advice of the Haynes Manual, a generous smear of grease was added before the dust seal was popped on, followed by the gaiter.
The whole assembly was then clamped back into the vice and the top cap removed along with the spring, once again...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06302092000909.jpg?w=680)
... to allow the fork to be partially filled with 7.5Wt fork oil and pumped until all the air was expelled and the oil topped up to the specified depth (170mm with the progressive springs). The spring, washer, top cap and snap ring were replaced. The o-ring was smeared with fork oil, replaced on the top cap bolt and the bolt fitted.
With all that done, the forks were refitted in the yokes, with the tops flush with the upper face of the top yoke, and clamped into position, the fork brace was added...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0715110892884.jpg?w=680)
... and the front wheel bolted back in (temporarily)and the gaiter clamped into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07201467155763.jpg?w=680)
... alongside the old rear shock being refitted (temporarily), this leaves me with a rolling frame!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With having a rolling frame now, it seemed sensible to get the fold out handle sorted to make the main stand a bit easier to use. Although it wasn’t in bad shape, it was worth getting it sorted out.
Firstly a straight pick (flathead screwdriver would do) was used to ease the handle rubber off the core…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06381708131861.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… allowing me to get all the parts together, nothing needed replacing.
… and the rubber stuck on the core left to act as a key when the rubber goes back on.
The core was marked up to protect the remaining rubber and the remainder stripped to bare metal with a wire brush on a drill before being primed, colour coated and lacquered to match the frame.
Once cured, everything was brought back together…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07222105654655.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… and the core was offered up to the spindle on the frame, to make sure I hadn’t gone too crazy with the paint!
The rubber was cleaned up and the core smeared with contact adhesive, rather than the usual method of smearing both sides of the things needed to be stuck together, and the handle rubber slipped onto the core (effectively using the adhesive as a lubricant). The rubber was aligned with the remaining rubber on the core and left to dry.
The spindle the handle runs on was very lightly greased (as it’s a fairly tight fit) with general multipurpose grease and the handle was added…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07251902833301.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… before the spring was lightly lubricated and inserted with the top retaining clip in to it’s channel.
The spring was pulled with a spring puller to allow the bottom clip to be put in place and the bottom end of the spring wound to allow the clip to seat.
With a few checks for operation, all was good.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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Nice work, thanks for posting.
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With a few mates wanting help with their bikes, I had to push on and get the BMW ready to roll off the bench. With the fame able to roll, that meant cracking on with the engine covers.
These cases have been subject to 12-ish years of exposure to the elements...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0569585297189.jpg?w=680)
... so they definitely needed the attention!
To start with, the cases were treated to a thorough wire brushing..
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06681354142532.jpg?w=680)
... to get rid of the previous paint and prepare the surface.
Once stripped, the elements of the covers I wanted to polish up were given a polish with a drill mop and some polish bar although not immediately apparent, this will really make the finished case look good!
The polished bits were masked over and tapped round with a pin hammer (same as making a gasket) to get the masking to fit perfectly...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06781243085278.jpg?w=680)
... and it was ready for painting.
With the bench covered with newspaper to capture the overspray, the cover was treated to 4 thin layers of Halfords Engine Enamel and allowed to cure for a few days.
Once cured, the masking was carefully removed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_06851174414583.jpg?w=680)
... to reveal the polished elements.
The mating faces were cleaned up on the cover and the crankcase and a thin smear of sealant added before the covers were replaced...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0705128451367.jpg?w=680)
... timing cover first as the ends provide the mating face for both cam and crank covers.
The timing sensors were fitted and wiring for the oil and water pump were fed back through the timing cover to allow the final cover to be replaced with its gasket...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07291143839359.jpg?w=680)
... to complete the cover replacement.
The sump cover was removed and given a good clean up, but nothing further was needed, and replaced with a smear of sealant on the mating faces, the filter cover had its o-ring smeared with oil to aid sealing.
Now, just the oil and water pump to go and it can be moved (as long as I chuck a wooden chock in to protect the main stand)...
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the Oil & Water Pump being located on the front of the engine it takes a fair old beating during use, so it was due a bit of attention.
This beating was seen by just how stuck on the cover was, this had to be pushed out from behind...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_05571045370603.jpg?w=680)
... and the residual coolant left to drain before the mounting bolts could be removed to release the whole assembly.
From a good look at the pump no leaks were evident and none were experienced on riding the bike, so only a good clean up was needed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0686799632225.jpg?w=680)
... as the paintwork was in bad shape.
All the loose paint pretty much fell off, with the stubborn bits being helped off with a combination of wire brush and No. 1 Green Paint Stripper ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0731142640285.jpg?w=680)
... before a good clean got it ready to mask up.
The pump was masked up with the old gasket making technique used to ensure a perfect fit.
The pump then had 4 coats of Halfords Engine Enamel before being left to cure and then being removed of the masking...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07632016654516.jpg?w=680)
... before everything was bought back together and the o-rings, bolts and washers were replaced with new items or upgrades (mainly with stainless bolts.
The unit was rebuilt, pressure relief valve plug and internals...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07661723378072.jpg?w=680)
... before pressure sensors and pump prepared for refitting.
The mating face was given alight smear of sealant, as there is no gasket for this, and the drive cog fitted to ensure alignment...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07691344064434.jpg?w=680)
... before the drive cog being refitted to the engine as well as the new o-ring (smeared with a little oil) followed by the pump itself.
The mounting bolts, pressure relief plug and sensors were torqued up, while access was good, the wiring for the sensors was fed through and connected.
The cover mating surfaces were cleaned up and a smear of sealant applied before it was attached to the pump...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_07812044032919.jpg?w=680)
... and the cover bolts torqued up, finishing the job!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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It is looking great, this bike is going to look like it just rolled off the factory floor by the time you are done!
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That's the hope, but there is always going to have to be a budget in mind - I'd rather spend time than money (given I enjoy the time spent mainly!)
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Thanks for posting images and detailing the procedures. It's inspiring to see the progress.
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With the bike able to be rolled, it was time to fix on the rear brake disc.
I gave this a good look over and the disc is well within service limits and, despite a slight lip, the disc is looking good ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_080426167636.jpg)
... ...so this had a clean up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner before it was mounted back onto the bevel box ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08071674233132.jpg)
... ... with new bolts used, with the threads covered in medium thread lock, before being torqued up.
The back wheel was popped back on to restore the rolling ability and hopefully no need to remove the brake disc during the rest of the build.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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As the main stand stops are on the exhaust, and I want to be able to use the main stand and still be able to move the bike, the exhaust was next.
Starting with the headers...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/20180729_13524818237209.jpg?w=680)
... which were cleaned up with a damp cloth before using OptiGlanz stainless steel cleaner, followed by light use of wire brush attachment on a drill - for the more stubborn bits.
The headers were then polished up with Autosol Metal Polish and wire wool...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/dsc_0745896324165.jpg?w=680)
... before being buffed up with a mop attachment on a drill.
The headers were then test fitted to ensure everything was as it should be.
This was then removed and as the manifold end of the exhaust is given a battering, they were masked up (leaving enough bare metal to seal in the manifold) before these were given a treatment of Kurust and a coat of black engine enamel...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0813775845517.jpg?w=680)
... to protect them in the future.
Once all the paintwork was cured, the headers were fitted onto the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08171190155584.jpg?w=680)
... and torqued up, using a smear of nickel grease and new nuts.
The rest of the system was emptied of the old connection gasket ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_07902037197989.jpg?w=680)
... and a new one ordered (from Germany, as the UK seems to have more hen's teeth), and the system disassembled.
The end can was inspected...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_07911054249500.jpg?w=680)
... before being cleaned up with a damp cloth, treatment using OptiGlanz stainless steel cleaner, followed by light use of wire brush attachment on a drill - for the more stubborn bits.
The exhaust were then polished up with Autosol Metal Polish and wire wool...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0793700996547.jpg?w=680)
... before being buffed up with a mop attachment on a drill.
The rubber stand stop was cleaned up and added back onto the exhaust before this was then put to one side to await the footrest hangers and the mounting bracket.
The bracket itself was in reasonably poor shape ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0838630602876.jpg?w=680)
... but it was stripped and primer applied, so a good view of the remaining strength could be done.
But, while thinking about it overnight, the metal seemed a bit thin...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08572123356360.jpg?w=680)
... having lost about half it's thickness to corrosion. So a replacement was ordered but the primed mount will be used for the time being.
The exhaust sealing ring arrived from Germany and was slotted into the silencer...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08661492296824.jpg?w=680)
... in as far as the internal stop.
The exhaust was connected, using a fair amount of twisting and swearing, clamped up and mounted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08681239947806.jpg?w=680)
... onto the awaiting bare footrest hangers.
Once the replacement mounting arrived, this was bolted straight on and all was done (I'll worry about the heat shield for the exhaust later, as it's a job in itself!)
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the exhaust required for the main stand to be supported when in the up position, it needs to hang off something ... so time to get the footrest hangers done to coincide with the exhaust.
The footrests were stripped back, with all the rubbers footrests and other parts removed, leaving just the hangers ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0820186882738.jpg?w=680)
... which were in turn stripped of paintwork, ready for reconditioning ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0827118376121.jpg)
... and given a couple of coats of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Lacquer Enamel ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0837122307210.jpg?w=680)
... and allowed to cure.
Once cured, the masking was removed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0860999692548.jpg?w=680)
... and the edges tidied up with a scalpel.
The top mount of each footrest is an earthing point, so each was cleaned up to ensure a good electrical connection for the ABS system.
The footrests were mounted up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08641918708045.jpg?w=680)
... and bought back together with the exhaust...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0868833740261.jpg?w=680)
... to allow the bike to be moved with a bit more ease.
As I don't want to be walking into the footrests continuously, these will be sorted later.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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Time for another quick win I think!
During disassembly of the bike, the coils remained on the wiring loom as they were difficult to remove, but the time has come to remove them.
Each coil connector was sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and allowed to soak in before these were wiggled until they released from the coil pack
The electrical connection on the rear most coil pack had definitely suffered the most from corrosion….
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08881440164084.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… but it was salvageable with some more electrical contact cleaner and a scotch pad.
With the coil packs freed, everything was pulled together…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08911188387796.jpg?w=676&h=380)
... and the cradle stripped down and the surface corrosion cleaned up followed by cleaning up the fittings to ensure no electrical conductivity via the mounting bolts, but good conductivity between the coil pack mounting and the earthing point for the cradle.
Once completed, the mounting fittings were used to bolt the cradle back into place…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08931427241507.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… the coil packs cleaned up, electrical contact points rubbed clean with a scotch pad and mounted onto the cradle.
The electrical conductivity was checked with the test coil contact isolated from the cradle and found to be good.
So the HT leads were connected to the spark plugs before being threaded through and onto the correct coil pack…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08951531396851.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… foremost to foremost, rearmost to rearmost and the remaining connection was obvious from there!
The electrical connection and covers will be done later, as access is needed for now.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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So, after some woodwork and a week in the Lake District on a walking holiday (even managed a chat with a friendly K75 owner), it was back to the project.
Next up are the tragkorb rails, these were pulled out of the pile of bits and checked over...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0122248294059.jpg?w=680)
... and with all looking good, these just had a tidy up with a wipe of WD-40...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_012374333386.jpg?w=680)
... the rails were good to go.
All the fixings were replaced with stainless nuts and bolts before the rails were reattached, using a little copper grease where the badly corroded fixings were...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01241436257875.jpg?w=680)
... and job's a good 'un, simple one after holiday!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleproject.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With things coming back together and the bike being taken off the table from time to time, it seemed reasonable to get the gear lever done (as the brakes are not commissioned yet).
I would say I pulled all the parts together, but I just picked up the gear lever out of the box!
But I did strip it down in to the bewildering array of pieces ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08971493880648.jpg)
... or 4 (lever, rubber, bolt and washer).
From here the lever was stripped using a wire brush attachment on a drill (well a stub of one as I've used it so much) before priming the lever in Autotek Etch Primer, top coating with Halfords Gloss Black Enamel before Halfords Clear Lacquer Enamel.
Once painted, everything was bought back together, the rubber fitted, the bolt and washer replaced and the lever reattached to the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01461362204156.jpg?w=680)
... another little job done!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects. wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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Time for another quick job, and as the top of the engine is looking a little bare ... that means airbox.
The airbox was stripped down, cleaned and all the parts pulled together ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0157143251327.jpg?w=680)
... the base was bolted onto the engine ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0159276805777.jpg?w=680)
... and the air filter replaced (as this was replaced at the last service according to previous owner and looks in very good condition).
The air flow sensor & controller unit, with the air delivery tube were added to the top section of the airbox ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0161754734911.jpg?w=680)
... and popped onto the filter...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01621784483749.jpg?w=680)
... and clipped into place with 2 clips, while the third required stripping and repainting due to corrosion damage. Once cured the last clip was added and that's job done.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motorcycleprojects. wordpress.com/)
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As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleproject.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleproject.wordpress.com/)
The WWW says the link doesn't exist. Looks like you dropped an 's'. Hope this is helpful.
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All updated, cheers for the heads up!
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The state of the rear shock against the newly repainted swing arm, frame and bevel box has been annoying me for a few weeks now so, it was time to deal with it.
I got the unit out and into the vice to discover all the rubber parts were badly perished, but the operation was OK.
So, recommissioning it was, first job was compress the spring and undo the top cap...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_04731343145534.jpg?w=680)
... so it was compressed well away from the cap with spring compressors, but the cap would not budge from the damper rod after over an hour of variously methods to remove it. So I was left scratching my head a bit, to say the least.
After a bit of research I had the option of sending it off for reconditioning, buy a used part or buy an upgrade unit. On the balance of cost, I plumbed for an upgraded unit...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_01802068381938.jpg?w=680)
... which just looks a lot better and is easier all round.
The unit was slotted into place and stainless fittings used to replace the old bits, I figured that if I went for a new shock then I might as well make it a proper job...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0198708216799.jpg?w=680)
... and with that all on, job done.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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Next in line was the rear brake assembly. As the K doesn't have linked brakes, I'm not forced to do the whole braking system at once.
Starting with laying everything out for the system ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08281511474566.jpg?w=680)
... everything looks good, but dirty, except a rubber boot on one of the pistons in the rear caliper but just touching this caused it to return to it's seat, so no major issues there.
The caliper had the pins drifted out with a punch ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08311543833785.jpg?w=680)
... to allow the removal of the pads and rubber boots, the caliper was in good working order, the strip down didn't go any further.
The bleed nipple was removed and bolts popped into the open brake fluid channels, before the caliper was cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner before being remounted on the bike and the original grease nipple replaced ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08361558759093.jpg?w=680)
... the fittings will be replaced once the paint work on the system is complete.
Next was the ABS sensor, the bracket of which had suffered a little from exposure to brake dust which was rubbed down and masked up. the masking covered the base of the internal side of the bracket to ensure the same clearance on the ABS sensor as before hand and avoiding any shimming up.
The bracket was given a couple of coats of Halfords Black Engine Enamel, as there will be some heat exposure ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0846834500943.jpg?w=680)
... before being mounted back onto the rear caliper and torqued up to the setting in the Haynes Manual.
The sensor itself was cleaned up and the original shims used (again to preserve the original clearance) and mounted into the bracket.
The gap was measured with feeler gauges and found to be 0.4 mm, well within the 0.35 to 0.65 mm range stated, that's sorted then!
The next item to strip off and sort out are the brake fluid lines. These had the ends cleaned up with a wire wheel attachment to remove the road crud and surface corrosion build up, before 2 M10 bolts were used per line, as well as the original copper washers, to ensure no paint got in the area it would meet brake fluid in the future ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0851267110725.jpg?w=680)
... before being masked up and given 2 coats of MOTIP Silver Brake Caliper Spray before being de-masked ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_087742523823.jpg?w=680)
... and allowed to cure.
While I was doing that, I got to work on the ABS bracket and the bottom half of the battery box by cleaning up the battery box to find it was in quite good shape, so nothing really needed there, before treating the ABS mounting bracket to a wire brush drill attachment, Autoteck Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer.
Once everything was cured the battery box was bolted back onto the ABS bracket, using cleaned up fittings and new nuts/washers ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08781839525230.jpg?w=680)
... before being bolted back onto the top of the gearbox so the basis of the reassembly was ready.
The master cylinder, reservoir and connecting hose were in good shape and fully functional so it was just cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner before being fitted to the back of the right hand footrest, using the original bolts (which were in good condition) ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_08741554900139.jpg?w=680)
... and bolted to the bike meaning the first part of the system is reinstated.
Next on the component list was the ABS pump for the rear brake, which showed both surface corrosion and had paint flaking off ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/dsc_0880955443594.jpg?w=680)
... so the areas with corrosion were stripped back to bare metal to ensure I got rid of it before the rest of the paintwork was rubbed back with a scotch pad to allow the new paint to key followed by a tac-clothing all over.
The pump was then masked up and given coats of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer allowing a cure between coats and a good long cure after painting was complete.
The ABS system was loosely bolted together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0128654253690.jpg?w=680)
... to identify what was needed, allowing stainless bleed nipples, banjo bolts and copper washers to be ordered. Also, this allowed me to check hose routing to make sure nothing was fouling.
Next was the rear brake lever assembly, for which all of the bits were pulled together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0132362682509.jpg?w=680)
... these bits were disassembled and the old bits all laid out with replacement pieces added to match as needed the parts remaining were cleaned up, with the brake lever itself polished...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_0138531415190.jpg?w=680)
... the return stop and master cylinder plunger added, these will be adjusted on commissioning, and the bush lightly greased before these were offered up and bolted into place on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01401779815519.jpg?w=680)
... and the operation checked and the return spring fitted.
It looked like the return stop was going to impact the footrest stop as part of it's operation, so a self-adhesive rubber stop was added at the point of impact...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01451210408356.jpg?w=680)
... to protect the footrest stop and avoid the annoying impact noise.
With pretty much everything done and all the parts arrived, it was time to double check and get the assembly finalised.
The new stainless banjo bolts and bleed nipples were put in with appropriate copper washers...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0199958434314.jpg?w=680)
... to replace the old weather beaten fixing and torqued up.
As with all the other systems with fluid in, this will be added during the commissioning and therefore bled through at that time.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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I guess the ability for the bike to have fuel and air mixture delivered to the inlet valves would be useful, and with the airbox in, the throttle bodies are next.
As everything is together in one lump at the moment it was just a case of breaking id down to see the condition and how big the job would be.
Everything looked OK, with the clips for the rubbers needing replacing and the throttle bodies caked in grime ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/09/dsc_01521699317933.jpg?w=680)
... so cleaning is the main job really.
The work started at the bottom, so reassembly could take place on the bike, so inlet rubbers were cleaned up lovely.
Each of the seats for the inlet rubbers were cleaned up in turn with a scraper and some 600 grit wet and dry paper before the rubbers were bolted back on ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0190408345675.jpg?w=680)
... and clips applied.
Next the throttle bodies themselves were cleaned up with WD-40 and an old tooth brush (yes, it took as long as it sounds it might), before being slotted onto the rubbers and clamped down. These were accompanied by the injectors, mainly as I didn't want to lose them in the ever rising tide of bike parts! Quickly followed by the rubbers between the throttle bodies and plenum chamber ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0200958530751.jpg?w=680)
... aided into position with a smear of WD-40.
The injectors were removed and brought together with the fuel rail but, given the injectors are sensitive pieces of kit (and I know they work), I decided not to paint these. But I did strip and paint the fuel rail ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02061958204274.jpg?w=680)
... with the usual layers of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer, and allowing to cure before adding the injectors, injector electrical connections and offering these up to the crankcase before the injectors were inserted and the fuel rail bolted into place ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0210761472772.jpg?w=680)
... and fuel pipes reconnected to both ends of the fuel rail.
The plenum chamber was cleaned up, clips for the joining rubbers added and internal faces smeared with WD-40. This allowed the fitting of the plenum chamber ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02121766806738.jpg?w=680)
... before tightening all the claps to secure, before the breather for the crankcase was attached.
With everything for the assembly back together, job done.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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I've been looking at the footrest brackets on the bike for a while now and then choosing to do something else. I think it's about time I got on with these.
So, as is traditional, all the components for each side were laid out to see what I had...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02031634305205.jpg?w=680)
... with it being fairly clear the bolts and pins needed replacing, rear footrest holders needed repainting and all the other bits needed a good clean up.
Once the stainless steel replacement parts were ordered, the first job was to clean up the metal centres of each footrest to take it from the condition I found these in to a condition I was happy with, this required cleaning with WD-40, paper towel and a scraper before drying off and application of Autosol Metal Polish with wire wool. Following this a buffing wheel on a drill was used to finish up.
The rear footrest mounting brackets were stripped back with a wire wheel, to remove the rust, before layering up with Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel, Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer and being set aside to cure.
With everything cleaned, ordered parts arrived and the paintwork cured off, all the components were brought back together to double check fitment...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0218523802888.jpg?w=680)
... before the old pins, bolts, washers, split pins and nuts were chucked into the recycling.
Starting on the left of the bike, the rear footrest mounts were bolted onto the bracket backplate to allow some minor adjustment ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/20181013_131930573672350.jpg?w=680)
... before the rubber was popped over the core, the pin hole had a drill run through it (as it was a fraction tighter on the fit than I'd like)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02221097934205.jpg?w=680)
... the bearing faces on the mount were greased as was the pin.
The back washer was added to the core, the footrest was pushed into position and the pin slid in...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02251517181341.jpg?w=680)
.. then washered and split pinned to secure it.
The front footrest was easier to fit, although quite fiddly, with the bearing faces and pin greased, footrest added and pinned.
The pin was retracted a little to allow the return spring to be fitted, the seat of which was also greased, the spacer and washer added and the assembly compressed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0227952280650.jpg?w=680)
... to allow the split pin to be added to secure it all.
From doing the left side first, I found it was a pain (especially with the rear footrest) to attach the rubber to the core before fitting, as you have to compress the rubber to get the pin in - this did cause me to slip and create a little paint touch-up work for me.
So, with the right side, the bare cores (without the rubbers) were fitted to the bike, for both front and rear...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02301257229987.jpg?w=680)
... before the rubbers were added...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02311072519519.jpg?w=680)
... to both footrests.
This turned out to be a much better way to fit the footrests and I'd recommend fitting them this way in the future!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the back end coming on nicely, I thought it would be time for the first of the bodywork to go back on.
So, starting with the rear mudguard everything was laid out replacement fastenings ordered and the plastic cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner, before the parts were pulled back together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0233744052527.jpg?w=680)
... and checked over to ensure I hadn't missed any damage.
Once I was happy, and after a cuppa, the mudguard was offered up and fitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0235978316957.jpg?w=680)
... it's starting to look like a bike again now!
Then onto the undertray, once again everything was laid out with the effect on the damage from road crud and salt apparent ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02432118220727.jpg?w=680)
... but, to solve this, the fittings were stripped back with a wire wheel on a drill to remove the vast majority of the rot...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02442096252177.jpg?w=680)
... with the remainder of the rot being treated with Kurust, to get into those bits a wire brush can't ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02451608829542.jpg?w=680)
... before a couple of coats of Hammerite Smooth Silver was used to protect these in future...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0246964142859.jpg?w=680)
... with these left to cure off.
In the meantime, the undertray was cleaned up with Muc-Off and WD-40 before a proper clean with Muc-Off before this was offered up to the bike ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02501364219308.jpg?w=680)
... to ensure everything is where it needs to be (including the rubber stops on the rear of the gearbox).
The last piece of this rear-end black plastic is the lower section of the tail fairing ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02511560715746.jpg?w=680)
... this was cleaned up with Muc-Off and a rag, with the fixing bolt and captured nut being replaced with stainless steel upgrades and was offered up to the bike before the undertray was fixed in place and the lower section of the tail section secured in place ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0257308453421.jpg?w=680)
... to finish off the job.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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So, as I've been adding things back to the frame, I've been adding in the wiring loom, so you will have seen this in pictures on previous posts, but I wanted to detail the main loom installation in 1 go here.
The harness was pulled out of the box and laid out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0172498616001.jpg?w=680)
... and given a once over to check for any damaging to the harness. The only damage was seen was the missing loom wrap on the section which gets the brunt of the road crud as it runs along the side of the undertray.
To start the re-build, the fuse box was cleaned up and the internals rearranged before being refitted into their original positions, starting with the cabelling for the alternator fed though before the internals were bolted in ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0174393549100.jpg?w=680)
... and fitted back into the bike and the wiring loom fed into the front of the frame...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_01751448569526.jpg?w=680)
... allowing the cables for the coil packs to be connected up straight away, followed by the power socket and the cover...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_01762109419262.jpg?w=680)
... which tidies that up.
The loom was fed through the front of the frame, with the rear section of the loom brought through above the airbox...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_01782013299368.jpg?w=680)
... allowing everything which had to go forward being slung over the handlebars before the plastic trim under the loom was added.
With the rear section of the loom now held on the bike, it allowed good access to the damaged section of the loom. All the loose wrap was removed and taken back to good material, which was held in place with electrical tape...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0184518019942.jpg?w=680)
... and the exposed section wrapped with electrical wiring loom material to keep everything together and protect the cabelling ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0248372351139.jpg?w=680)
... and, of course, it looks a lot better.
At the front of the frame, the ignition control unit was added into the recess in the frame allowing this to be connected up.
The battery was added to the bike, with the screws and retaining plate getting a complete strip and re-paint due to the the corrosion seen on the parts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0204120990981.jpg?w=680)
... which, once cured were put in place to clamp down the battery.
The rear of the loom was run along the inside edge of the frame on the right hand side which will be tied into position once everything is in place, to allow of routing into the best position.
The rearward section of the harness was run to the rear mudguard and back through the lower portion of the tail fairing ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0258110448522.jpg?w=680)
... with the ABS control unit put in place and electrically attached...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02721566848579.jpg?w=680)
... completing the main run of the wiring loom.
The remaining electrical connections will be dealt with in each of their respective sections.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/ (https://motocycleprojects.wordpress.com/)
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With the lower part of the tail fairing in place, the indicators were the next job, so all the parts were, as usual, laid out to see what I had...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02631987667580.jpg?w=680)
... so it looks like just a case of a tidy up and a check for operation .
The plastics were cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner, WD-40 for the more stubborn bits and final clean off with more Muc-Off...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02642115561817.jpg?w=680)
... which were then bolted back into place on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02652122389362.jpg?w=680)
... and the electrics run into the housings...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0266374547087.jpg?w=680)
... to make sure the cable runs were good with no snagging.
Each of the indicators were checked for operation in turn (please forgive the pun!)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0267379272160.jpg?w=680)
... with no issues there.
The lenses were then reattached to the housings...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02681187552851.jpg?w=680)
... completing the job.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (https://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the indicators on and the electrics in place, it was time to finish off the rear end lighting with the combined brake and tail light.
Well, it didn't take long for all the pieces to be pulled together ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0269485967110.jpg?w=680)
... which wasn't a difficult job, to be honest.
The back of the unit was cleaned up, with a dry rag, before both the brake light and tail light sections were tested for operation ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02701243467609.jpg?w=680)
... and found to be fine.
The unit was wired into the rear of the bike and the wiring loom aligned to allow the rear light to be refitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02931274319927.jpg?w=680)
... before the rear lens was cleaned with Muc-Off to finish the job.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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As I was working on the back end, the seat lock was next in line, so that was pulled out of the box and put on the bench and stripped down ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02621750628603.jpg?w=680)
... to allow the parts to be cleaned up with Muc-Off motorcycle cleaner and the helmet lock catch polished up. This catch did show some corrosion on the chome plate, but it wasn't significant enough at this stage to justify replacement, so just the cleaning for this time.
The smooth head square cap bolts had previously been badly painted, so this was stripped off and the heads repainted with layers of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer before being allowed to cure.
The fittings were bought back together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02961121755296.jpg?w=680)
... before the lock unit was offered up and mounted to the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02972095514413.jpg?w=680)
... with the helmet catch and the seat lock mechanisms greased as well as the helmet catch with WD-40'ed return spring added to complete the job.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the back end of the bike starting to look good, the last of the systems running the length of the bike is the front brakes.
But, as the handlebars are not ready, this bit will be left for now.
So, everything was pulled together and the order of work decided, starting with the brake calipers, which were pulled out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03041785434365.jpg?w=680)
... the caps popped off and the pad pins drifted out and the pinch bolts, with a fair amount of effort, unwound...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03071509481770.jpg?w=680)
... and put in the metal recycling box, these are definitely going to be replaced!
The ABS sensor was the next bit to take off, did it want to play ball? Did it hell! So, after heating and penetrating oil the damn thing still wouldn't budge ... so drilling out is the way forward to reveal some corrosion welding the bolts into place.
The sensor was also corroded in, meaning this needed to be wedged out with a screwdriver...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0309342358932.jpg?w=680)
... to reveal the size of the tidy-up job here! The remaining studs were punched and drilled out to 5mm before a M6 tap was wound through to allow the sensor to be reattached later.
From riding the bike to the workshop, I know the brakes are good, so there is no need to go any deeper than this, so everything for each caliper was laid out and the halves of each caliper cleaned up, showing just how bad the cosmetic condition of the caliper was...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03151923570679.jpg?w=680)
... given this condition, the paintwork was scuffed up, dust seals removed, mating faces masked up and the pistons masked up before building up thin coats of K2 Gloss Black Brake Caliper paint giving this plenty of time to cure (about 3 weeks while I was away for work) , before the o-ring was replace and both halves bolted back together, allowing the other bits to be lined up for cleaning and refitting...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0343445766589.jpg?w=680)
... which went without incident...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0347123109442.jpg?w=680)
... ready for the calipers to be reinstalled on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_034853234856.jpg?w=680)
... allowing the pinch bolts to be torqued up (not that I could find a setting, so whatever felt right really - if there is any evidence of leaking when I bleed these, they'll be nipped up) and finishing the calipers, although the mounts have not been tightened as these will have to be moved to allow the front wheel to be removed for sorting later.
It's worth nothing here that due to high tensile strength bolts being removed, there were replaced with the same specification and not straight stainless steel bolts.
Next were the 2 flexible lines in the system, both of which showed corrosion on the ends...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03272046281922.jpg)
... so both of the lines had both ends fitted with bolts and washers to protect the mating faces and the rubber portions masked off, allowing the build up of thin coats of Motip Silver Brake Caliper paint...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03491576987643.jpg?w=680)
... and allowed to cure, before being put aside until the rest of the system is ready to be fitted.
Next on the list was the ABS pump, which was in a bit of a sorry state...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03361758571105.jpg?w=680)
... so this was taken back with a wire wheel attachment on a drill to remove the loose material, but I found so much under-paint corrosion that across the majority of the pump it needed to be taken back to bare metal before the cable and brake fluid channels were masked off and the body coated with Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Lacquer Enamel, before being set aside to cure and allow it to be mounted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03501412901482.jpg?w=680)
... complete with bleed nipple.
The final target for cleaning up were the fixed lines, so these were put on the bench, cleaned up and laid out on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0371130011057.jpg?w=680)
... and the scale of the task dawn on me, I should have run these lines before I fitted the wiring loom back in, this will require a lot of wiggling and swearing!
So, the lines were fed through from the front of the bike, wiggling, shoving, pushing, adjusting and pulling one of the lines at a time until both were fed through and bolted into the ABS pump. I must admit, it would be so much easier if I'd not had the fusebox in at the time.
But it allowed the fixed lines for the calipers to be reinstalled alongside the flexible lines...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03751501309399.jpg?w=680)
... before all the fittings were torqued down.
So the last bit to do is the earthing lead on the ABS pump, which had corroded through and dropped off as it was taken off the bike. But a new connector was found for the end, the wire was stripped back, continuity checked, new end attached, continuity checked again and bolted between the ABS pump and onto the top bolt of the footrest, between the plate and the gearbox.
Finally the continuity was checked again...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03791572819584.jpg?w=680)
... and found to be good - finishing that job, with the master cylinder being completed as part of the handlebars and bleeding down as part of the commissioning later.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Next in line is the cooling system, given the water pump has previously been done, that means the radiator and hoses, so that was popped on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_02731267203645.jpg?w=680)
...the easiest bit to remove is the stub pipe which fits onto the crank case, so that was removed, the temperature sensor removed and the pipe popped into the vice...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_0274416205977.jpg?w=680)
... which was cleaned up with a wire brush attachment on a drill and the stub pipe masked up before being given a few coats of Plastikote Aluminium Engine Enamel, allowed to dry and the masking removed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03021998976980.jpg?w=680)
... and set aside to cure.
So, back to the radiator assembly, the hoses were removed and put to one side, allowing direct access to the fan, which was definitely 'firmly' attached - with 2 seized bolts which were cleaned up with a wire brush and the edges of the heads cleared of corrosion with a pick tool before being treated with penetrating fluid on front and rear...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03251022223184.jpg)
... and left to soak for a while, say time enough for a couple of cups of tea!
The bolts were tried again, but no movement was forthcoming. So a little heat was added to gently warm the bolts and the clips they bolt into, gentle because the proximity to the radiator...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/dsc_03301914439186.jpg)
... which, after a fair amount of time, allowed the bolt to be eased out and left me with a loose fan, but it needed some cleaning up after that!
And onto sorting out the state of the radiator parts, starting with the radiator itself, which wasn't in the best of conditions cosmetically...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03811048744957.jpg?w=680)
... but the cooling surfaces and internal pipe work all looked good and there were no leaks on the ride home.
As nothing was fundamentally wrong, the radiator was cleaned with a rag and WD-40, the blistered and flaking paint removed with the help of a wire brush and a pointy tool, taking care not to damage the internals before being painted with cylinder block paint...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03911246235848.jpg)
... and set aside to cure off.
While waiting for that, the thermostat and cap were next up and as these are known to be good, these were cleaned up and the thermostat replaced in the radiator...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03871624357201.jpg)
... followed by the cap returning the radiator to one piece.
Next up is the bottom mount which was cleaned up with a wire brush drill attachment and the elbow grease of a good friend, so it was ready for painting.
The mount was treated to layers of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer and left to cure off.
Meanwhile, attention was turned to the cooling fan, which was tested for function by jumping it across the battery...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_03941344302677.jpg)
... and it worked faultlessly.
The balance weight was removed, the location marked and the weight was cleaned up before a couple of coats of Hammerite Smooth Silver and set aside to cure.
The fan itself was cleaned up with a rag and WD-40 and the balance weight replaced...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_04031905008152.jpg?w=680)
... meaning the fan is done!
The stub pipe was refitted with the temperature sensor, with the copper washer replaced and the threads smeared with gasket sealant and the unit was fitted with a new o-ring and mounted onto the crankcase so it's ready for the rest of the cooling system.
The radiator assembly was put back together and loosely mounted on it's bottom mounts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_04051738633081.jpg?w=680)
... as an offering up to make sure everything is where it needs to be (and proving I may need to visit the routing of the front brake fixed pipework, but I'll sort that later).
With that done, all the hoses were pulled together and cleaned up with WD-40 before the hoses on the stub pipe were reconnected...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0414171477836.jpg?w=680)
... before the radiator could be remounted and the remainder of the hoses reconnected.
Next step was the expansion bottle, which was grabbed from the ever-shrinking parts pile which was cleaned up and mounted back into the frame...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0418271929079.jpg)
... which then allowed the air intake ducting to be replaced...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_04191747887582.jpg)
... finishing both the radiator work and the airbox.
As usual, the system will be commissioned later.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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As some of the electricals and control cables need to be run through the front bodywork mounting, it seemed reasonable to the mounts done next.
Starting with the front mount, this was pulled together and the rust stripped off, with the remaining paint prepared by roughing up with 600 grit wet & dry paper...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_04211999974679.jpg?w=680)
... before Autotek Etch Primer was applied before coats of Hycote Gloss Black and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer and set aside to cure.
Once cured, it was bolted back onto the headstock...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0438648317315.jpg)
... allowing the rubber grommets to be refitted ready and cables properly run.
Onto the remaining bodywork mounts, these were grabbed together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_04561902906209.jpg)
... and had all surface corrosion and dirt removed with a wire brush drill attachment these were then treated to a good number of coats of Hammerite Smooth Silver...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0486615520486.jpg)
... and set aside to cure off.
The mounts were then rebuilt with the original bolts, rubber grommets and mushroom washers before being mounted onto the fixing points on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05051817848848.jpg?w=680)
... with one 1 mount requiring the radiator filler cap to be moved to allow it to fit.
To finish the job, the relay mounted on the front bracket was cleaned up, refitted and connected up to the wiring loom.
Onto the next job!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Fantastic, methodical progress. Well done, and has inspired me to work on some fiddly bits as the temps drop below 3c here (seat lock assembly for certain.) Cheers
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This is great to see. It’s the kind of “build” I can really appreciate.
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Getting the bike on and off the lift is a bit of a pain at the moment, so handlebars should help with that.
These were grabbed and popped on the bench and stripped to the bare handlebars...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/dsc_0427303763561.jpg)
... from here the bars were stripped back to bare metal, due to the rust seen on the clutch lever side of the handlebars, before being treated to Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer and allowed to cure.
Once cured off, a length of fairly stiff electrical cable was fed from the centre hole in the handlebars to one end, before the remained was looped around the handlebars and then fed through to the other end...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_0508196957518.jpg)
.. to allow the cables for the heated grips to be pulled through later on.
This was then mounted onto the top yoke of the bike, adjusted (for now) and torqued down.
With that done onto the controls, which were popped onto the bench in turn and stripped down. The front brake master cylinder was inspected but it will stay in situ, rather than risking damage by stripping it down when I know it works well.
The adjustable parts, such as the front brake light grub screw were measured so that when these are replaced, they can accurately be reset and minor adjustment undertaken from there.
Once stripped down, this left me with 2 piles of bits...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05271906888847.jpg)
... things that need cleaning and degreasing and those bits which are in good condition.
The bits that needed cleaning were soaked in Muc-Off Motorcycle Cleaner while the electrical items were tested for function and the screw threads cleaned up by running them through a dye.
With that done, and the parts continuing to soak, onto the electrical switchgrear elements of the handlebar controls...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05321998568914.jpg)
... these are known to work, so no further stripping down required. But the controls were grubby, so using a rag with a small amount of WD-40 these were cleaned up. The thing that struck me here was that the markings on the controls were very faded, in no way a problem to function but gives me some research to do to see if these can be replaced.
Once done, the wiring for the controls was fed through the front of the bike and connected up ready for the remainder of the parts, once completed.
Next up was the central handlebar controls which were broken down into it's component parts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05411146670056.jpg?w=680)
... and the mount was cleaned up with WD-40 on a rag leaving the next step as the ignition barrel.
On removal the tab retaining this dropped out, it would explain why the barrel was partially push back into the dash, so by using a hot knife this was plastic welded back on to the stump which allowed the barrel to be checked for electrical operation with a multimeter before being refitted into the housing.
Each of the switches on the housing was tested electrically and cleaned before being refitted into the housing.
The hazard light switch was found to have corroded electrical connections and a broken wire on further investigation the internal connections were also corroded...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05461680157305.jpg?w=680)
... so these were cleaned up with a little sandpaper and electrical contact cleaner before the back of the switch was refitted.
The external connections were de-soldered, the wires stripped back to remove the corrosion and the contacts cleaned up with a wire brush. The wires were then soldered back onto the switch and tested and found to now be operational.
his allowed the central control panel to be rebuilt and bolted back onto the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05541459011591.jpg?w=680)
... allowing me to move onto the handlebar controls, which required the clutch sensor to be removed with a box spanner...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05561025991041.jpg?w=680)
... unfortunately this did call for the cable to be cut, but this will be reconnected once everything was done.
With the control parts stripped (yes I gave in and removed the front brake master cylinder), soaked and degreased, the parts that then required painting were stripped using Rustoleum No.1 Green Paint Stripper before these were given coats of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Gloss Black Enamel and Halfords Clear Enamel Lacquer...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_0568671473216.jpg?w=680)
...and were allowed to cure off before reassembly commenced with both sets of controls being as built up as possible before even looking at the bike.
While everything was being added to the handlebars, the wires for the heated grips were taped to the wires that had been previously threaded through...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_0573259704445.jpg)
... allowing the wire to be pulled through to the exit hole in he centre of the handlebars, and the grip fitted to the bar...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_05751325435279.jpg)
... so the heated grip wiring could be soldered back together and connected up, alongside the wiring for the clutch, brake and sundry dash switches.
Following this, the choke, throttle and clutch lines were run and hooked up, just leaving the flexible front brake line, which was connected to the fixed line and connected up tot he master cylinder.
Things like the clutch adjustment and a decision on if I'm going to take a look at re-marking the handlebar controls will happen with the commissioning and finishing touches respectively.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the front end taking shape slowly, various work commitments and seeing family slowing work down (but not is a bad way - just in case my wife reads this), it was time to move onto the clocks.
Thankfully I'd kept the clocks in one piece while the bike was disassembled, as I knew these worked and didn't suffer from fogging seen on some K75's, so a straight re-fit, happy times here! With a spring in my step, at the thought of an easy job, I grabbed the clocks and popped them on the bench giving the clear plastic a clean with a dry rag and the black plastic a wipe with a rag just dampened with WD-40, but something didn't look right...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0583174985117.jpg?w=680)
... it seems when taking this off the bike, I flipped the bracket around and refitted it, so that was quickly rectified (still with a spring in my step!) before the bolt holes were cleared up with a bolt and the tired looking bots replaced with stainless steel upgrades.
But, I went to mount the clocks, something else didn't look right...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_05901712583362.jpg?w=680)
that rubber seal shouldn't look like that. So the back of the clocks were popped off to find that at some point in history the clocks had been apart (probably to replace a bulb), the seal had been allowed to fold over on refitting. This was straightened out and the back screwed back onto the clocks, finally now ready for bolting back onto the bike!
The clocks were offered up, wiring from the handlebar controls directed through the curve (but not the hole) in the bracket, and the electrical connector for the clocks pushed into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_05951673871821.jpg)
... and secured with a small bolt into the back of the housing.
Leaving the handlebar based items pretty much completed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_05942024137668.jpg)
... until I change my mind about something anyway!
While I was on a roll, I grabbed the horns...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0597121398106.jpg)
... and as these worked well before the bike was disassembled, they were cleaned up, bolted back into place and the wiring reattached...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06021713519874.jpg)
... completing 2 jobs in one here.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the bike really taking shape, t was time to get the last of the big electrical bits done, thankfully an easy fitting of the CDI and it's housing
So, the lump was popped onto the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06391950265235.jpg?w=680)
... to allow it to be stripped down to components.
The rubber mounts wiped clean with WD-40 and fitted onto the frame the tray was also wiped clean with a cloth dampened with WD-40 (you'd be surprised how little I get through on a project), and slotted onto the mounts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06411026063614.jpg)
... this allowed the CDI, after a wipe over, to be slotted in on it's rubber feet and secured with the pin through the rubber Bush on the far side...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0643837051303.jpg)
… to keep it in place - quite good little fixing method this, it's clear a lot of thought has been put into the bike's design, shame about the routing of some of the wiring and control lines!
From there, the electrical connection was made...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_064428203711.jpg)
… and the cover wiped clean and replaced before the top cover was similarly treated...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0646848625602.jpg)
… and closed to finish the job! I love these quick simple ones!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With everything looking like it should do, it looks like it’s time to adjust up that clutch and make starting her up a step closer!
So to start the free distance on the gearbox end of the clutch cable was measured from the metal sleeve end to the barrel in the actuation arm and adjusted ~75mm…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0609373588845.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… as suggested by the Haynes and owners manuals, and the rubber boot was slid back up the cable to cover the metal end of the sleeve.
On the actuation adjuster, the 13mm lock nut was backed off and the procedure followed from the Haynes manual, backing out the bolt with the aid of a 10mm spanner by about 2 turn – or until it moves freely before being wound back in until some resistance is felt and the lock nut nipped up.
All looked good, so before saying the job was done, I held the clutch handlebar lever in with a clamp, selected first and spun the back wheel – clunk and the back wheel locked up. Trying second – clunk and the back wheel locked up, and similar in all other gears bar 5th … something really not right here.
So I put the garage to bed for the night and gave this some good thought over a beer, well a coffee, well a glass of water – anyway, the options on issues were (starting at the cheapest and easiest to sort out:
>Clutch thrust bearing (a little bit of play, but not concerning when inspected before)
>Clutch plates failing to disengage (again OK when inspected before, but something may be misaligned on reassembly)
>Gearbox fault (the most annoying to sort out and the previous inspection of the gearbox, which incidentally was only a condition check and nothing was taken out of the box, was the only time in history I’ve purposefully looked into a gearbox)
I guess it was start at the top of the list and work my way down it! The clutch cable was released again and the actuation arm moved out of the way to allow the clip, boot and spring to be removed from the rear of the gearbox before the piston and trust bearing were removed and play checked again…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06682289109.jpg?w=676&h=380)
… as seen before, there was a small amount of play – but as a problem was evident, this was replaced with a good condition used part with no play and the clutch actuation was rebuilt, with cable reattached.
The box was put back into first and the rear wheel spun – clunk. Spiffing, but at least that is now known to be good.
The next option was the clutch spring plate itself, to get to this, the entire back end of the drive train needs to be removed and the bike raised up off of the main stand, allowing a stack of wooden blocks to be placed under the engine block and an axle stand positioned under the front of the engine (for stability rather than load bearing)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06621812018096.jpg)
… allowing the bottle jack to be removed before the stands were removed and the bottom left and top right gearbox to bell-housing bolts removed. To replace these, 2 guide rods were made from 2 ~2 1/2" M8 bolts with large unthreaded portions with the heads taken off with a grinder. These are to make alignment of the gearbox input shaft and clutch push rod much easier, preventing damage to the splines, moving of the clutch alignment or bending of the push rod when removing and replacing the gearbox.
The guides were threaded in and the wooden block support checked, once I was happy all was ready to go and the bike was stable (or at least as stable as it was on the main stand before), all the remaining gearbox mounting bolts were removed from the bell-housing and the frame and the gearbox slid back on the guides (the actuation rod pulled out of the spring plate and into the gearbox) and then lifted away, exposing the clutch which was removed to allow the spring plate to be checked (which was fine) and all the surfaces to be cleaned up, as I was here anyway.
Everything was rebuilt, everything being torqued up and re-greased as appropriate, to the point of the gearbox being popped back on, clutch actuation reassembled and the drive shaft attached, first gear was selected, the clutch lever clamped in and the drive shaft rotated - clunk. Oh the deep joy that ran through my being, or extreme frustration (I am sure you can correctly select which one!).
As I had daylight left the gearbox was removed again and popped on the bench, allowing the gearbox to be cracked open and the problem was fairly quickly seen, I must have either aggravated (i.e. moved further out of alignment) or caused myself, one of the gear selector fork shafts to have pulled away from the selector drum...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06731199907058.jpg?w=680)
at least a problem was identified. The selector forks were realigned, ensuring the selector forks were sat in the drum...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0678665023237.jpg?w=680)
... before the front cover was replaced and bolted down, following the process used previously. The gearbox turned freely, so that a problem sorted, this was then popped back onto the guides and slotted forwards onto the clutch. The clutch actuation was reinstated and the gearbox was rotated through the gears again, with the clutch lever held in …. the result: a resounding CLUNK, but from a different location to before - you can't imagine how annoyed I was. This means I must have a remaining issue with the clutch - as the only bit I wasn't sure of was the alignment, I wanted to start there.
I did a little more research and from Motorbrick (thank you Alphadoc), it looks like a 1/2" socket for a 3/8" drive would fit over the push rod, work well and save buying the BMW tool for a one-time use.
To align the clutch I fitted the wire ring and the spring plate, using the push rod to hold this in place, followed by the forward plate, before the 1/2" socket was added to the push rod and the friction plate mounted, with the rearward plate mounted and bolted into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0695887758218.jpg?w=680)
torquing up to 22Nm, to complete the mounting of the clutch, so much easier with the alignment technique!
The 1/2" socket and push rod were removed, the push rod pushed back into the gearbox input shaft and the gearbox mounted on the guides fitted earlier. The gearbox was slid forward and wiggled (quite a lot), but once the splines were aligned it slid home, allowing 4 of the gearbox mounting bolts to be fitted to prevent movement, the actuation was reinstated (less the rubber boot and clamp) and driveshaft added...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0700512972349.jpg?w=680)
... to all the clutch disengagement to be checked and ... success! 1 gearbox fault and 2 clutch faults sorted - I was rather happy, it's fair to say, so a cup of tea to celebrate.
With this sorted, all the rear of the bike removed earlier was reinstated, meaning I was back were I started, less 3 faults.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Wow! You are super-human for restoring your K75 without using a media blaster! Quite a muscle workout, using a wire wheel! On the plus side, you don't have the concerns of media blast contamination to deal with.
So refreshing to see there are humans willing to undertake such a huge project. Thank you for sharing your work!
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With the gearbox/clutch issue sorted, it was time to get commissioning, starting by chucking the batter on charge for the duration and the earth cable from the front earth mount to the gearbox and gearbox to battery cables added to the earthing point on the gearbox...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0614268611666.jpg?w=680)
… but the bolt looked a bit past it, so this was replaced with a new alternative. The battery charger was then attached for the duration, to ensure it was ready to go.
From there I started with the bevel box, the oil for which I had already got, FUCHS 80W-90 gear oil.
The drain plug torque was checked and the filler cap removed to allow the oil to be added up to the bottom of the threads of the filler, using about 260ml...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0620589226956.jpg)
… the bevel box was rotated, with the gearbox in neutral, and the level checked before the filler cap replaced and torqued up. It's worth mentioning here that I cut a slot out of the funnel I use to allow the end to be drawn round on itself and fit into the smaller filler hold on the bevel box.
For the gearbox oil, the drain plug torque was checked, filler removed and the same FUCHS 80W-90 gear oil was used, using about 875ml of oil to reach the mark on the dipstick (tool kit C-spanner)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_06241262559466.jpg?w=680)
… the gearbox rotated and run through the gears while rotating the back wheel by hand. The level was checked again and the cap fitted and torqued down.
And moving forward, it was time for engine oil, deciding to go with FUCHS Semi-Synthetic 10W-40 as it gave the greatest temperature window for operation across the temperatures usually seen in the UK.
As before, the drain plug torque was checked, the filler cap removed and the oil poured in to a good volume in the sump and the engine turned by hand before topping up again and replacing the filler cap replaced.
The spark plugs were next in line, these were taken out, cleaned up with a wire brush and the gap checked with a feeler gauge to ensure they are within service tolerance before refitting and the HT leads reattached.
I managed to get myself a replacement sticker for the coil pack, so I removed the cover for the coils to expose the damaged sticker cleaned up the coil and fitted the new sticker...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0653609802026.jpg)
… unfortunately not a match, but it conveys the warning it needs to!
So, moving onto the rear brake, everything was wrapped in rags to protect it from brake fluid the reservoir was topped up, clear tube and pot connected to the nipple and the bleeding began from the ABS Pump, slightly applying the rear brake, opening the bleed nipple, pushing the foot brake through it's travel, closing the blood nipple and releasing the rear brake - bleeding the ABS pump before moving onto the rear caliper and repeating the operation.
Despite the bleeding, no brake pressure, so I repeated the bleeding process, and there was more air. As I got frustrated I shelved it for now and started on the front brakes - I'll come back to this once I've given it some thought.
The front brake reservoir was topped up and the brake lever tied up with an elastic band the nipple on the ABS pump was opened and allowed to gravity bleed (mainly so I could have a coffee!), this was repeated with the nipple on the left front caliper...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/dsc_0003148955575.jpg?w=680)
... and the bleed was done, pumped the brakes a few times and all the pads moved - so job done, or so I thought.
There was a puddle of brake fluid, I traced the leak back to the front brake master cylinder so the front brake reservoir was emptied, and the mess cleared up. I was somewhat disappointing as this was working perfectly before the strip down, maybe it was time for this to fail, maybe it just needs a good clean.
The front master cylinder was disassembled and cleaned before being reassembled and the unit held with the plunger up and a small amount of brake fluid added - and I waited for any bubbles to indicate a leak ... nothing, happy is not the word.
The fluid was all cleaned up, the master cylinder remounted and the reservoir was topped up, with the system bled back through to clear any air...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/dsc_0057674427788.jpg?w=680)
... once everything looked clear of bubbles, the front brake was pumped hard again and tied back to allow any remaining bubble-shaped gremlins to work their way back into the reservoir over night. The next morning the brake was lovely and firm and ready to stop.
With the front done, it was time to head back to the rear brake, it was time to give the system a thorough check through. The right hand side footrest hanger was removed and the rear brake master cylinder unbolted and the master cylinder was dismantled and all the internal components were cleaned up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/dsc_00791352199342.jpg?w=680)
... as well as the bore, to ensure a good fit. The back end of the master cylinder looked a bit cruddy so it was cleaned up with 600 grit wet and dry paper with a similar treatment given to the mating faces of the brake line. Once done, the banjo bolt was reinserted and wound to the stop, before being taken out 1 turn and the exposed bolt length measured...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/20190302_194223186093745.jpg?w=680)
... and the thickness of the brake line end measured, this meant I needed 2.88mm of washers just to make up the space, let alone the crush distance, so I put a stack together which measured 3.25mm and applied these to the bolt...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/02/dsc_0093751152111.jpg?w=680)
... wound the banjo bolt back in to hold everything together for now. The right hand side footrest hanger was bolted back in place and the same banjo bolt check conducted on each fitting, cleaning up and adding washers where needed.
Following that, each bleed nipple was taken out and checked for seating marks before each seat and nipple was cleaned up with blue roll to remove any contamination and refitted.
The brake fluid reservoir was topped up with fresh fluid and the gravity feed line pinched, just above the master cylinder to bleed the air out of the feed line, save having to work that air all the way through the system.
The reservoir was again topped up and the bleed nipple on the caliper cracked open, allowing the system to gravity bleed once bled cleanly, I tied the brake lever down as with the front brake, to allow a reverse bleed to the reservoir overnight - in the morning solid and no leaks!
The next logical thing to do would be to add the coolant, so suitable coolant was diluted as per the instructions. Before I added any coolant, I went round the system and made sure all the hoses were tightly secured and the drain plug was torqued up. Once I was happy, the filler cap was removed and a funnel was popped into the filler hose, allowing coolant to be poured in and the air bubble out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/03/dsc_01252027972208.jpg)
... slowly 2.5L of diluted coolant was added and another batch was made up before being slowly added to the point the coolant reached the top of the filler hose and once I was happy the system was as bled as it was going to be for now, the expansion tank was topped up. This allowed the filler caps to be replaced. A check under the bike confirmed no puddles of coolant - success for now!
This concludes the mechanical commissioning of the bike - bar the first run up to temperature which will have to wait until after the tank is back on.
It's also worth saying that once that run up to temperature has occurred, I'll again check all the levels of all the fluids to ensure everything is where it needs to be.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Wollyjumperuk,
I am learning quite a lot from your project, and it is very much appreciated. You are educating me on the inner workings of the K bike, and adding to my knowledge base!
Great tips as well, like this gem:" .. once everything looked clear of bubbles, the front brake was pumped hard again and tied back to allow any remaining bubble-shaped gremlins to work their way back into the reservoir over night. The next morning the brake was lovely and firm and ready to stop."
Cheers, Kosmic
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After a break from the project due to a secret project (see future posts) and various other things, it struck me that everything currently assembled had been sorted bar the wheels, so it was on with that!
The handlebars were tied back on both sides with bungees, to keep them straight...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_0227943125940.jpg?w=676&h=380)
... and the back end of the bike was tied down to lift the front wheel off the ground the front brake calipers were removed, to allow the front wheel to be dropped out, the axle replaced, the calipers bolted back on and an axle stand popped in place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_02311595689209.jpg?w=680)
... and the rear strap slowly released to lower the front onto the stand. This lifted the rear end up to allow the rear wheel to be dropped out and another axle stand popped in place under the rear wheel hub bolts.
The bike was checked to ensure if was stable...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_02341310513447.jpg?w=680)
... and a dust sheet chucked over the bike for the time being.
The wheels where inspected and found to be solid so they were given a good clean and checked over again. Unfortunately both valves were cracked and perished...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_023561103129.jpg?w=680)
... there were marks on the wheels where they'd been removed previously...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_0237414427841.jpg?w=680)
... in short, the valves need replacing and the wheels need repainting. So I had the tyres popped off at a local garage, leaving the bare wheels ready to start the repainting.
The wheels where soaked in motorcycle cleaner, in the only tub I have that's big enough (known as a bath tub!) and cleaned off to as much of the remaining grime as possible and then allowed to dry off...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_0291334135746.jpg?w=680)
... so the wheels can again be inspected before I proceed.
With all being good, it was time to take the front wheel bearings out. An internal bearing driver was put in place and expanded...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_02991179162756.jpg?w=680)
...the hub was gently heated with a blowtorch, the wheel was turned over and a box spanner was used to bear against the driver. The bearing was driven out with a few sharp blows, also allowing the spacer to drop out of the wheel.
With the spacer out, an internal puller was used to draw out the remaining bearing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_0304253661925.jpg?w=680)
... leaving the wheel bare. The bores were inspected and found to be good so the painting process could begin.
All of the high spots and dings in the wheel were identified and sanded back to remove them wherever reasonably possible with the remainder were minimised as best I could. This allowed the wheel to be rubbed down with 600 grit wet and dry paper...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_02971225599363.jpg?w=680)
... and rubbed down with thinner.
The bearing bores and brake disc mating faces were masked up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_03061670604312.jpg?w=680)
... and trimmed back, using a small pin hammer against the edges to cut the masking back...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_03071124027444.jpg?w=680)
... to exactly mask the area needed.
With the wheel masked up, this was given a further rub down with thinners and coat of etch primer...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/20190412_2236071949799569.jpg?w=680)
... before being left to cure and knocked back with 600 grit wet and dry paper and a tac-cloth used, followed by a rub with a tac-cloth and a second coat with a smooth off with 2000 grit wet and dry paper, with the etch primer being touched up where needed.
Once that was all cured, each wheel in turn had a coat of E-Tech Silver Alloy Wheel Paint using the same tac-cloth and sandpaper routine per coat for a further 2 coats. The wheels were then put aside to cure for a week.
Once cured, the same technique was used for the E-Tech Alloy Wheel Lacquer coats and put aside to cure ...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_03531860132025.jpg?w=680)
... while that was curing the hub had exactly the same treatment.
The next was refitting the wheel bearings, well it would have been if the parts that arrived were actually those I thought I'd ordered - it turns out that the standard multi-spoke wheel takes different bearings to the optional 3-spoke wheel (which requires a 12mm & a 16mm depth bearing), so a new set was ordered.
With the brake disc used to save the new paintwork on the underside of the wheel, the hub was gently heated to expand the recess. The bearings were retrieved from the freezer (to make them as small as possible) and slotted into place, using the old bearing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/04/dsc_04211534892493.jpg?w=680)
... as a spacer to drive the new piece home. Once in, the wheel was turned over and the central spacer fitted with the bearings fitted on that side by the same process and the circlips added.
The front brake discs were inspected the bolts, washers and nuts were replaced with new bits and the thickness of the discs checked and found to be in tolerance. The disc was also placed flat on a known even surface (my kitchen worktop) and the distance from the surface to the top of the disc was measured in a number of places - all measurements on each disc matched, so no significant warping there - on the front wheel they went and were torqued down with new bolts.
As the old tyres were over 10 years old (despite them being in good condition), they were replaced with new rubber at a local garage...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/05/dsc_06212084858587.jpg?w=680)
... allowing the rear wheel to be popped back on followed by the hub and the rear mudguard. The back end was strapped down, to raise the front end off the axle stand.
The front axle stand and brake calipers were removed to allow access and the axle popped out so the front wheel could be fitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/05/dsc_06261999186651.jpg?w=680)
... the calipers replaced and the ABS sensor gap checked and found to be good.
So, the BMW can now be taken off the table when I need to, spot on! Everything bolted on is now sorted - bar the snagging later.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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I've had a rubber pull through valve split where it goes through the rim, so I now use the metal ones with the retaining nut.
Regards Martin.
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Hey Martin,
I've had that before too - if I'm fitting valves I'd tend to use metal ones, but as the garage was doing this, they'd have to sort any mistake, so I'm a little more relaxed about a rubber valve.
Cheers
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The wheel rehab looks like a great garage project for the end of this riding season. Thanks for the inspiration.
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WJ, mine was a rapid air loss at 100 KPH. Steering went really heavy and I had to lean to change lanes. With a can of tyre sealer a limped back to where they fitted the tyre. The guy took one look at the valve and asked who fitted it as it was a scooter valve. He shut up quickly when I said they had fitted it. I don't go there anymore, no apologies no discount.
Regards Martin.
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As the rest of the bike has moved on nicely, it was time to start paying a little attention to the tank as that was the only remaining component stopping the bike from being fired up.
So, the fuel tank was pulled out (shame about the slight damage to the side of it really, as otherwise it's perfect)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_04771693334752.jpg)
... the dregs of fuel remaining were siphoned out and the fuel filler cap removed, detaching the fuel pump and filter and removing the fuel level sender unit as well as easing off the tank badges with a hairdryer and a plastic scraper.
The tank was then left to one side to air, just in case I want to paint it - so that will be a 2 week wait for that to be safe to proceed.
Once aired the tank was popped onto the bench to allow the internals to be inspected to ensure there was no rust or debris present...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/20190609_1111521740895857.jpg)
... before the exterior of the tank was inspected and the paint defects marked...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/dsc_0641167991441.jpg?w=680)
... confirming the work I'd need to do to the paintwork. With that in mind the filler cap hole was masked off to protect the internals from dust and paint, as well as the openings on the underside so that I could concentrate on getting the top surface ready for repainting.
The tank was then rubbed down with 600 grit wet and dry paper to give a good key, before filling all of the dings with filler...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/06/dsc_0675382989759.jpg?w=680)
... allowing the filler to go off before rubbing that back too, with the process repeated until I was happy with the surface.
Following that, primer was laid on, allowed to cure and rubbed down with 2000 grit wet and dry paper, before being topped off with the colour coat. This was given the same preparation treatment before the clear petrol resistant lacquer was added...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_0658836768430.jpg?w=680)
... which again was allowed to cure before a couple of coats of petrol resistant lacquer and allowed to cure for the last time, over a week or so to ensure everything was set.
The internals started with the fuel level sender, which was popped on the bench which was visually and electrically checked over...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_06631554301607.jpg)
and found to be fully functioning, so the o-ring was refitted and bolted back into the tank ensuring that the float and arm were correctly located along the inside edge of the tank and free to move...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_0666628672486.jpg)
... allowing me to move onto the fuel pump assembly, which span up cleanly when powered up. As this all looks good the pump was reinstalled, which took a fair amount of wiggling to get it to seat correctly and attach the wiring was made easier by removing the pipework from the pump, which was then reinstalled...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_06741292131060.jpg)
... which then allowed the filter to be fitted to the fixed pipework in the tank...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_06751015143739.jpg)
... ... finishing off the internals.
The next bit was to fit the cap. So, as usual, this was grabbed and popped on the bench with the spare bike keys...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/dsc_06961008182320.jpg?w=680)
... the original key is somewhere in the garage, so that's a full search another time!
The seal ring was cleaned up to ensure a good fit and the latch mechanism was removed to allow the whole unit to be cleaned up, the latch spring was greased and refitted. This allowed the inner seal and latch mechanism to be suitable lubricated and refitted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/dsc_07001545767218.jpg?w=680)
... this was test fitted into the tank...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/dsc_07021394205981.jpg?w=680)
... highlighting how bad the ring around the fuel cap looks, so the cap tank was popped off and the offending paintwork sorted out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/dsc_07042011844054.jpg?w=680)
.. allowing the tank to be fitted back to the bike, the ignition was turned on and the engine turned over, to ensure the pump primed and rotated properly.
The last piece of the puzzle was fitting new BMW decals...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/08/dsc_0718738119729.jpg?w=680)
... of an upgraded metallic type, shipped in from the USA. The tank pad will be fitted once the seat is done to ensure alignment.
The tank had half a litre of fuel put in, the ignition turned on and the button pressed... it started and ran for about a minute before dying. I added a further 4 litres of fuel and it fired up, with a little choke and ran. I let in run for a few minutes and everything sounded OK and the oil level in the sump dropped, so that is getting moved around too.
Time for a cuppa!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Educational!
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Just read through this entire thread. Amazing project and as others have said, your methodical approach is exceptional. It's inspiring to know you've gotten to this place through a self taught process. I kind of dream of being able to do some of these things but I'm where you were years ago. Right now changing the oil seems like a bridge too far. But come winter when the bike takes a break perhaps I'll start to learn.
Can't wait to see you wrap things up and report from the road!
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It's just a lot of perseverance, a lot of getting it wrong (sometimes costly and mostly with paint finishes), putting it right (sometimes 3 times in a row on the same piece), workshop manuals galore and a bloody minded determination to save money over garage costs.
I really don't know everything - for example this project was the first time I had done any serious work on a shaft drive bike - turns out not to be that bad. Also it was the first time I'd worked on a bike with a car-style clutch - that turned out to be more of a pain... mainly in alignment, but I (hope) it got figured out!
I'm glad the thread is proving useful to some - if anything the post writing and trying to get the right pictures is taking longer than actually doing the work!
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On to the front mudguard, because it's as good a bit of bodywork to start with as any, as usual I started by gathering up and laying out all of the bits...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0721926276367.jpg?w=680)
... allowing me to order replacement nuts and bolts as required.
The mudguards were filled where needed, sanded back to form a good key for painting and remove the decals before, alongside the tail fairing, getting etch primer, colour and lacquer coats...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0735922504946.jpg?w=680)
... as with all my bikes, the lacquer is petrol resistant, just in case.
The fender extender was cleaned up and pop riveted through the original holes...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0737396013148.jpg?w=680)
... before the tails were snapped off and tidied up. As this was through plastic I didn't want to chance ruining the paintwork by letting them pop off under the pressure of the rivet gun.
The front of the mudguard was slotted into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0739986840613.jpg?w=680)
... and loosely held in with the bolts, before the rubbers for the brake line were added, the groves very lightly lubricated with a smear of WD-40, and the rear section wiggled into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_07431877541020.jpg?w=680)
... all 5 bolts were tightened down and the job was done.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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I wasn't looking forwards to the work required to get the paint right on the side and front fairings, so after the mudguards were started I went for the next smallest bit... the tail fairing, entirely missing the complexity of the shape until someway in. But, as usual, I started at the start by getting it all together...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_070885534632.jpg?w=680)
... so I could identify everything I needed to order and get it on the way.So to start the tail fairing was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry paper and prepare the rough areas for filling and getting the remaining stickers removed, the filler was mixed and applied...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_07241073960825.jpg?w=680)
... and the filled areas were then again rubbed back as before being rinsed off and allowed to dry. The base of the unit was masked off as well as the opening in the unit and the leading edge...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0728970248269.jpg?w=680)
... so it was ready for some paint. As usual this consisted of etch primer, colour coat and petrol resistant lacquer, with each coat being allowed to cure and then rubbed back before the next.
Once painted the tail unit was offered up to the bike before being bolted into place and a new rear cover badge applied...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0746359082114.jpg)
... just leaving the grab handles and rear rack to go.
The grab handles were given the same treatment as the tail fairing, filling, rubbing back and masking up the handles...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0753802430547.jpg)
... before etch primer, colour coat and petrol resistant lacquer, before being put aside to cure.
The rear rack was in fairly good condition, so it was just given a refresh with the problem areas being rubbed back and repainted so the back end could be rebuilt...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_07681946649174.jpg?w=680)
... allowing the electronics and cradle to be reinstated, and finishing the back end off.
It's worth saying here that there is an imminent house move coming up, so the posts may drop off for a while - be assured that they will resume ASAP!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Next on the list was the seat, so this popped up on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/03/dsc_0241140197629.jpg?w=1700)
... and the fittings from the underside removed to allow the seat to be cleaned up both on the underside, as well as the top, which then allowed the grooves left from storage were gently warmed with a hair dryer and massaged out.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/03/dsc_0245412207671.jpg?w=1700)
At this point our house move was finalised, so a break in proceedings was called for.
Once the move was complete and some vague approximation of a workshop had been set up (or a bit of wood laid across a few boxes), the fittings were stripped back and treated to etch primer, gloss black and lacquer, before these were allowed to cure off.
Once cured the parts were reassembled and any corroded or damaged fasteners replaced and the main bracket fitted to the rear of the frame through the bodywork...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_09431489017810-1.jpg)
... so the seat could be be offered up and slid onto the hinge before securing with the clip...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_09451047934679-1.jpg)
... followed by the central stay, and finally the rear stay, allowing the seat to be closed and adjusted to fit the locking mechanism.
The seat was given another clean with motorcycle cleaner and a small section of old carpet...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_09491459828983-1.jpg)
... as it's a little abrasive, but not a lot.
Lastly was the tank pad, which was cleaned up before double sided tape was applied and trimmed back with a scalpel...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_09521985914299-1.jpg)
... before fixing it to the tank to protect this from damage where the seat may rub...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/07/dsc_09661225631044.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing the job!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Moving on with the bodywork with the next in the line, the side panels. As usual all the bits were laid out so they could be checked over...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_0995478091493.jpg)
… so I could see everything was OK, the side panels needed repainting, but I knew that, and there were a few broken lugs on one panel, but I decided to start with the smaller infill panels.
These infill panels have a foam trim which has very much suffered over time, leaving them looking a little worse for wear…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_09961500400296.jpg)
… so the offending foam was taken off, with as much residue as possible, before being cleaned up with WD-40 and a rag before a length of rubber U-channel was obtained and glued onto the edges previously occupied by the foam.
This was achieved with superglue with the first section glued in place before cuts in the rubber were made to allow the rubber to bend around the corners, allowing the next section to be glued and held for a few minutes to allow it to cure.
By repeating this process, the rubber was applied where foam had previously been which was put aside to completely cure off, I’d say for about an hour, before I came back with a scalpel and cut the overlapping rubber away to neaten up the finish…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_105162404245.jpg)
… finishing off the smaller infill panels.
Now, onto the broken lugs where the fasteners had been over-tightened previously a fair amount of damage was caused. To keep as much original material as possible, broken off sections were refitted with JB Weld…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_1001516544526.jpg)
… although not the neatest job in the world, this was a solid fix and base for the rest of the lug.
For the remainder I used a Plastex bodywork repair kit, with various videos for this online, I’m not going to repeat that advice and guidance here. Suffice to say it was a bit more fiddly and cumbersome on my first go, but again the results were OK and solid. This was sanded back and compared to the same lug on the opposing fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_1031755119698.jpg?w=1700)
... showing a good match that will be painted up to blend it in later.
Next was onto the presented faces of the fairings themselves. These were cleaned thoroughly and allowed to dry so the damage could be clearly seen...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_1039341360421.jpg?w=1700)
... so raised areas were sanded back, while low areas were filled using a standard bodywork filler and once set, this was sended back ready for painting allowing these to be degreased and tac-clothed to remove the loose debris before primer coats, colour coats and petrol resistant lacquer, leaving a couple of days between paint type and then being set aside to cure off.
Once cured, the fittings could be rebuilt, starting with the addition of the bottom rubber seal to sit against the engine casing which was push-fitted before moving onto the top mounting panel, which was cleaned up with WD-40 and had new fittings (as the old were looking very old indeed)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_1057450477977.jpg?w=1700)
... allowing the small infill panel to be treated to new fittings and bolted onto the fairing with the required fairing clips fitted to the lugs, finishing the bench top work for these.
The panel was offered up to the bike, to ensure all the mounting points would align and the fairing was bolted into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/01/dsc_1059731622608.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing that job up.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Moving onto the radiator cover, which was popped on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/dsc_04451403986274.jpg)
... ... and stripped back by removing all of the attachments, fixings and seals to leave bare panels, so these can all be laid out, with those bits not needing paint were pull out to be set aside.
For painting, first up was the radiator grill which was cleaned up with a wire brush and air blown clean before a couple of layers of silver paint were used...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_10681079080228.jpg?w=1700)
... to get this looking a bit better.
Next up was the grill surround, which was rubbed back before a number of etch primer, colour and lacquer coats...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_10841573373581.jpg?w=1700)
... which was then set aside to cure off.
The radiator cover bodywork was next on the list on which the defects were marked up to highlight them...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_10901753064033.jpg?w=1700)
... and filler applied to the marked dings before this was allowed to cure and harden before it is taken back to a smooth surface with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and cleaned thoroughly.
From there a couple of coats of Halfords Etch Primer were applied...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/dsc_10931584969972.jpg?w=1700)
... before a couple of coats of Halfords BMW Arctic Silver, topped with Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer.
Once cured the part was checked over, and a defect was found indicating the lacquer had gone on to thickly. The section was sanded back and colour coat and lacquer reapplied, once done this was allowed to cure off.
While this was curing, the black plastic bits were pulled together and cleaned up with a rag moistened WD-40...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/03/dsc_10962029548991.jpg?w=1700)
... then left to dry off in the sun.
With all the painted parts cured off, they were all put back on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_1101798743813.jpg?w=1700)
... and reassembled using the original fixings, as they were in fairly good condition, resulting in a unit, I think, looks great...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11031331420749.jpg?w=1700)
... but, of course, is not yet complete.
The foam strip for the top of the grill surround had some double sided tape applied, and carefully attached back to in place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_1106560730000.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing off the back and allowing the bodywork to be offered up to check alignment and to remind me to pop new fairing bolt clips on the locations of the side fairings this bolts to.
From there the side grill and one of the fork shrouds was fixed in place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11081661921194.jpg?w=1700)
... as the other needs the brake and ABS lines to be fitted before they can be.
With that all done the radiator cover was offered up and held in place to ensure alignment and allowing me to 'wiggle' the fairing clips into the right position...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11481948348837.jpg?w=1700)
... so I was happy with the fitting and that I hadn't missed something.
Once I was happy with everything lining up, the cover was loosely bolted into place and popped the brake and ABS lines into approximately the right position mainly to make sure I had not made a colossal cock up with the rigid brake line!
This allowed my to bolt the cover fully into place and slide the lines into their recesses...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11531283745711.jpg?w=1700)
... and pushing (with only a small amount of swearing!) the rubber grommets into place, meaning I was then able to fit the other fork shroud...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11561914430953.jpg?w=1700)
... being careful not to mark or damage the paint I've worked so hard on!
All that means I could stand back and see what I had completed and check there was nothing missing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_1157879690960.jpg?w=1700)
... thankfully everything was where it should be and that meant another job jobbed!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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The next step to battle my way through is the large front fairing, to give myself a chance of staying as sane as I currently am, I’ve broken this down into much smaller jobs, some to happen before the fairing is fitted, some during, some after – first up we’re the indicators.
On first inspection these all looked good, so I hooked a spare battery up to the lamp terminals…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11171147057508.jpg?w=1024&h=576)
… and both were found to be operational.
From here the body and lenses were cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag, and the terminals checked before being gently cleaned with a little fine grit sandpaper then each lamp holder was plugged into the wiring loom to test the system…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11292099428692.jpg?w=1024&h=576)
… which worked a treat, just as soon as I remembered to reconnect the battery!
All was good, until I gave the lenses a final check and found a small crack, but given the amount of work I’d put in already, a replacement was sourced, inspected and found to be defect free, tested and put with the other ready for the front fairing.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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The next step on the road to front fairing was the headlight. Which I popped the lens off of and found the reflector in really good condition...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11601745768733.jpg)
... so all that had was a wipe over with a lint free cloth.
The lens had come away with the foam seal, so this was eased off the glass with a series of gentle pulls along it's length, inspected and with no defect seated back into the headlight housing, allowing me to focus on the lens.
Like most things in my world, the lens was cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_1163146127309.jpg)
... before being checked to see if it was good to use. Unfortunately there were 2 stone chips in the lens...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11641853774122.jpg)
... consist of the age of the bike, but not ideal.
Again, with the amount of work I'd put in so far it was a shame not to get a defect-free replacement part, so one was sourced and the damaged lens swapped out.
With that as it is, the headlight was rebuilt and functionally tested by hooking it up to a spare battery...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11671731116632.jpg)
... confirming the headlight lamp were operational.
Next up was the sidelight lamp, which when connected to the battery failed to light up, so this was removed and the lamp seen to have blown. With the lamp removed the holder was tested for continuity and found to be working fine, so just a replacement lamp needed, which was ordered.
The body of the headlight was, again, cleaned up with a little WD-40 on a rag...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_1169301523135.jpg?w=1700)
... before being set aside to await the sidelight lamp.
Thankfully I was able to pick up a replacement lamp from Halfords and got this fitted, allowing me to properly test the lamp holder which was found to be in fine working order, so the unit was put aside ready for the front fairing.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Now, I've not been looking forward to this giant lump of fairing, but here we go!
To start, the RT badge was heated with a hair dryer so this could be easily eased off, leaving me with the bare fairing which was rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper to prepare it for painting...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_11801561532439.jpg?w=1700)
... and thoroughly cleaned with clean water, hand dried and allowed to further air dry for a few hours before filler was applied to the imperfections and allowed to set overnight.
From there, with a fair amount of effort, a sunny morning and more 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper, the fairing was properly rubbed down...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_119035670636.jpg?w=1700)
... followed by another wash and dry.
Once dry the fairing was cleaned with a Tac-Cloth and then white spirit, allowed to completely dry before a couple of coats of Halfords Etch Primer and allowed to cure overnight before flattening off with 2000 grit paper, cleaned, dried and finally 3 coats of top coat...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_12141966576672.jpg?w=1700)
... and allowed to cure overnight.The preparation work was completed again before 3 coats of Autotek Clear Lacquer and allowed to cure for the final time.
Meanwhile the bottom section of the fairing was inspected and found to be defect free, so was cleaned up with WD-40 on a rag...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/dsc_12201131764682.jpg?w=1700)
... and allowed to dry off while the fixings were replaced with stainless steel alternatives.
With the fairing cured, the indicators were slotted in and bolted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1232950561002.jpg?w=1700)
... before the rubber seal was fitted into headlight and the unit was bolted into the fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1234735173814.jpg?w=1700)
... checked for fit and, thankfully, all good!
The mounting points were given new fairing clips before fitting the infill panel to the underside of the fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12351520273798.jpg?w=1700)
... ready for test fitting.
The fairing was slotted onto the bike and secured with the 4 fixings surrounding the headlight, to allow all of the alignment to be checked...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1239924820034.jpg?w=1700)
... which all looked good, bar 2 fixings, unfortunately the 2 most difficult to alter - the 2 frame mounts, hidden behind the lower fairings...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12421089716438.jpg?w=1700)
... and all looked good, so everything was rebuilt, including the internal infill panel, leaving the front fairing fitted!
From there was the wiring connections, because I had labelled all of these when I was disassembling the bike, this was just a case of reading - removing the label - plugging in.
Once completed, each of the electrical components were tested in turn, starting with indicators...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_124699106354.jpg)
... then the sidelight and headlight (both main and dipped beam)...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1248702664904.jpg)
... finishing off the electrical installation, so job done! You can't believe how much I'm glad that's over, I'm definitely not a fan of painting, but it's got to be done!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Much credit to your eye for detail and methodical discipline. It's always troublesome to anguish over "is the expense worth the cosmetics", like the lens rock-dings, I'd say you made the correct decision. Looks quite tidy!
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BONZER WORK!
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Speaking of discipline. No matter how hard I try I can't stop and take great photos like you have posted in this thread.
Amazing!
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I have got to the point of thinking - if I've put this much work in, it would be a shame to let it down by trying to rush or (as I see if, after being so involved) cut corners now! It's taken a while and I've moved house in the process - if something is worth doing (whatever the motivation) it may as well be done to the best of your ability.
I must admit, I have learnt a lot about paintwork on this project, giving the small field's worth of fairing, and I am getting better at painting!
I do have to force myself to stop and take pictures, sometimes I even have to go back and dismantle bits to photo it and put it back together. To be honest, it's a bit of a pain, but I like to share my summarised progress on here and keep my blog up to date - but I am in 2 minds on if I am going to do that on future projects.
Watch out for future posts, including mirrors with tethers fitted, to save losing them down the road.
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With the front fairing on, it was time to get the next biggest piece out of the way, partly as it get fits directly onto the fairing and partly because I don't want to move it to get to other parts anymore!
So, again as usual, all the components were laid out on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1257339627858.jpg)
... and I firstly concentrated on the base, which looked in good condition and as this worked well no intervention was needed, so the mechanism was removed from the mounting plate, allowing this to be cleaned up.
Of course, this was done with a rag and WD-40. Because when you can't cleanse with fire only WD-40 will do! So the underside was cleaned, followed by the top side...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12671420624490.jpg)
... once I was happy with that the mechanism was reattached and the components here-in were concentrated on, including removing the return springs, so these can be inspected, cleaned (again with WD-40 on a rag - I've got a good collection of WD-40 soaked rags now!) and reattached to it's mounting points with a spring puller, for ease, and the remainder of the mechanism was cleaned up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12681441094405.jpg)
... allowing the springs and slide shafts to be greased up accordingly, to save wear or stiffness in future.
With that done, the assembly was put into place on the front fairing to ensure fit...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1270270920359.jpg)
... and all looked good, once I managed to slide the motor into the hole behind the headlight and as I was happy with that, the unit was plugged into the wiring loom and the operation of the mechanism tested to ensure it works and all was found to be good.
With that, the assembly was removed and new stainless steel fairing clips were put onto the front fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1272953309618.jpg)
... so this is ready for the final mounting of the unit.
With that done I was able to concentrate on the bumps and scrapes on the mounting plate, I waited until this point to sort these out, just in case I caused any more with the first fitting...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_127859951880.jpg?w=1700)
... these were further cleaned up to remove any WD-40 residue, a little gloss black spray paint sprayed into the cap and a brush used to touch these in...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1329438227923.jpg?w=1700)
... blending in the damage to make it less noticable. I didn't want to try and fill these as the sanding process would damage the mounting plate more.
With that done, the windscreen drive and mounting unit were bolted into place with brand new stainless bolts, to match the others on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1330814794841.jpg?w=1700)
... so hopefully I will not have to remove it again!
With that done, it was onto the windscreen itself and first look at the screen showed a few bubbles behind the cleaning instructions...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1283780306429.jpg?w=1700)
... these were pricked with a sharp (I got a new blade out especially) scalpel blade, a needle would have been just as good, to allow the trapped air to be massaged out via the hole...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12841084186675.jpg?w=1700)
... which looks good and gets rid of the air trapped in the BMW factory in 1995/6.
The mounts for the screen were popped off...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1285242778964.jpg?w=1700)
... and showed the scale of cleaning needed on the windscreen!
Without waiting around I cracked on with 2 hours of gentle cleaning, following the instructions on the screen, soaking and cleaning small sections of the screen at a time, drying before I move onto the next section and ensuring these sections overlap...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12871869307934.jpg?w=1700)
... leaving the screen nice and clean afterwards.
The screen mounts were inspected and found to be solid, so we're cleaned up with a wipe of WD-40 on a rag, ready to be fitted back into place.
The forward rubber mount was installed first, before the plastic fixings were added before the rearward rubber mount was laid into place and this was pushed (well more gently coaxed) into the groove with the flat side of a small screwdriver...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1293187971177.jpg?w=1700)
... aided by a smear of WD-40 to help it slide into place.
This then allowed the screen to be mounted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12942099135255.jpg?w=1700)
... and functionality tested again, with just the drain lines to fit to finish the job.
These were gathered together, inspected and found everything was good to go, so the clips were added to the front fairing lower panel...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13321628136034.jpg?w=1700)
... this was followed by the lines threaded behind the headlight and connected to the drain points on the windscreen mounting...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13331288683096.jpg?w=1700)
... and the other end passed into the clips, making sure these face to the rear of the bike to ensure drainage when the air pressure is on the front of the bike while riding.
That's the windscreen done!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Brilliant post
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Before I got into the fairing infill panels, and because I originally wanted to mount these gauges in the infill panels, I wanted to get these gauges done.
The mounts and gauges were popped on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13171068699921.jpg)
... so I could check condition, starting with the mounts. These were found to be fairly corroded, under the paint, causing a bubbling of the paint surface...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1318170718930.jpg)
... which was taken back with an angle grinder with a sanding disc, to try and minimise damage to the metal beneath, so that the pieces could be rubbed back with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper and hung ready for painting and tac-clothed to remove the loose material.
With that done, the mounts had coats of Autotek Etch Primer...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13241932804827.jpg)
... and once cured, coats of Halfords Gloss Black...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1326845389684.jpg?w=1700)
... and finished of with coats of Autotek Petrol Resistant Clear Lacquer.
With these having a few days to cure off, they were ready to fit to the handlebars, which meant removing everything from each side and sliding the mounts into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1350621013549.jpg?w=1700)
... remembering to check which side they go on first before securing with stainless steel bolt and washers.
With the brackets fitted, each of the gauges were cleaned up, with the trusty WD-40 rag...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/20200525_111407.jpg?w=1700)
... with the only things left to do is to mount and test them.
The gauges were bolted into position...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/20200525_111938.jpg?w=1700)
... and electrically connected, with the position adjusted for now and the nuts nipped up.
To functionally test the fuel gauge, as previous tests had shown the sender to be good, the ignition was popped on and a length of wire used to hook the float in the fuel tank up off the stop...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/20200525_105916.jpg?w=1700)
... and secured by popping the end down the overflow hole. With that secured the gauge was checked, which read as expected and then moved when the float was raised and lowered.
The temperature gauge was tested by running the bike until the needle started to move, showing that was all operational.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com
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With the front fairing done, windscreen in place and the fairing infill about to go in, this is the best time for me to tackle the mirrors. I've taken into account a common issue seen with these, if they smack something they fall off and generally end up under the vehicle which just knocked them off for you - tethering is the way to combat this problem according to many.
With that in mind, the mirrors were popped on the bench so that work could begin...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1296961260894.jpg)
... and the only work needed was to the housings themselves, having been dinged a bit over time.
To get this done, the glass had to come out, so the corners around the mirror glass were masked up to limit damage...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_12981156254226.jpg)
... and tape put across the glass, just in case I break it! And to save my eyes, in case I shatter it, alongside the safety glasses...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13001507226349.jpg)
... so all was safe to proceed. This is convex glass (trust me, that bit is important to see what's going on behind you), it can be a bit expensive to replace, so from here on in I am going very carefully.
A car trim removal tool was slid behind the mirror glass and put as close to the ball connector possible before gently easing the mirror glass and holder out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1301646111043.jpg)
... thankfully both in one piece!
On inspection of one of the mirrors, the housing didn't quite close properly, and there as a scrunching noise as I tried to press it back to place, so easing around the join with the car trim tool I eased the housing away. I found something odd, expanding builders foam...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_131493500758.jpg?w=1700)
... I suspect this had been used to 'glue' the mirror back together after an impact at some point in history. It's not meant to be there, so I got as much of it out as possible, thankfully this does not seem to have done too much damage to the function of the housing.
While this was open, an 8mm hole was drilled below the mirror glass mounting point so the tether could be pulled through...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1305261423904.jpg)
... with a further 8mm hole drilled into the plate between the 2 lower mounting points to allow the tether to be fed through to the bodywork.
With the tether fitted, the mirror glass mount was reinstated and the tether looped over it and the hole between the 2 mounting points was measured and a corresponding hole drilled through the front fairing, so that the tether can be passed through.
The mirror mounts were loosely bolted into the front fairing, ensuring the rubber washer is between the mount and the fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1311819102885.jpg)
... to allow the mount to sit away from the fairing and the tether enough space to emerge and be looped around the mount.
As a demonstration I held the mirror up to the fairing to see where this would hang...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13121713327711.jpg)
... which seemed to work OK enough, so carry on I did.
With that done, the mirror housing was glued back together, nothing special here, just a bead of super glue run around the mating faces, before it was held together with masking tape while it cured off.
Once cured, the body of the mirror housing was looked at and the larger areas of damage filled with body filler ready for the sanding to commence!
The sanding took both mirror housings back to a smooth finish with the vast majority of the imperfections removed and the remained of the paint finished scuffed to accept the new paint, which meant it was ready for the sacrificial coat of etch primer, to identify any further dings I'd missed, which were then sanded back again and the painting proper to start with Autotek Etch Primer...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/20200525_105603.jpg?w=1700)
... once that was on and cured they were rubbed back with 1000 grit wet & dry paper, drying off once a smooth finish was achieved.
The housings were allowed to dry off before coats of Halfords BMW Arctic Silver were applied...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200527_0804583474880523368957306850.jpg?w=1700)
... followed by a further run back, dry and coats of Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer and again allowed to cure off.
Once cured and masking removed, the foam mounting pads were installed with a little spray contact adhesive, making sure they were correctly aligned first time!
Next was the mirror glass, each of which had the ball socket lightly greased to aid fitting and adjustability once fitted.
In turn, each was held in place and a steady pressure against the center of the mirror used to pop it back into place and the tape removed from the glass...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200530_1710200422610352283090028955.jpg?w=1700)
... leaving each of the mirrors ready to be installed.
To install the mirrors the tether was fed through the pre-drilled hole in the fairing and looped around the rear most mounting plate bolt (behind the washer), while the mirrors were snapped onto the retaining lugs...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200530_173036626_hdr1727057498264459806.jpg?w=1700)
... which was a right pain, so the top mounting was done first, then the bottom 2.
With the those fitted, that was job done on the mirrors!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the mirrors sorted, it was time to neaten up the front end with the fairing infills. So, first up were the mounting brackets, which were checked over before being cleaned down with trusty WD-40 on a rag and with nothing else needed here (except me needing to buy shares in the WD-40 company), these were bolted into the front fairing...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13373827477.jpg?w=1700)
... so the focus could switch to the infills themselves.
All the infill panels were arranged on the bench and, except a bit of dust, everything looked good enough to use, so thankfully no waiting around for spares on this one!
I grabbed the lower panels first and found that one of the units was missing the foam/rubber strip...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_1340342642099.jpg?w=1700)
... and the other was in such a condition that daylight could be seen through it, so much for no spare parts! Thankfully I had some black rubber tubing that was perfect for the job.
This was cut to size and sliced down it's length, allowing this to be super glued into place, once the old adhesive had been removed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13441238889901.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing the required repair work to that piece.
The lower infill panels were both given the WD-40 treatment, and the lower mounting point for the infills were given a new stainless clip, allowing the lower fairing infill panel to be fitted with a new stainless steel bolt...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/dsc_13481259413670.jpg?w=1700)
... on each side, the bike is already looking much better with these in place.
Next up was the forward dash / infill panel, which was a bit dusty, but otherwise in fairly good shape.
The dash light fitting was hooked up to a spare bike battery to make sure everything worked...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200527_1703011912567826308350303115.jpg?w=1700)
... with no issues found the infill was cleaned down, this time just with water and a clean paintbrush to get rid of the lose material.
Once dried, the blank switches were popped back into the unit, which was offered up to the bike to allow for electrical connections to be reinstated before the windscreen unit was loosened off so the infill could be slid into place and electrically tested...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200531_1013105015505621865240412122.jpg?w=1700)
... to confirm everything was fine, allowing the panel to be fitted into place.
Finally the pockets and the lids were up, I've worked on this previously when I got the bike, one of the lids was bubbled, like it had been exposed to a flame or something very hot, I grabbed a replacement while I was looking for other bits on the bike.
The parts were cleaned up with water and a paintbrush and allowed to dry.
Once they were dry each of the pockets were fitted in turn...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200531_112430840_hdr3794367179957444682.jpg?w=1700)
... once in, the seals were checked on the lids to make sure that they would keep water out of the pockets and they looked good, so these were fitted and the locks checked they worked with the ignition key.
Standing back, this looks pretty good to me...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200531_1137140363333887207439007619.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing this off and bringing the bike closer to completion.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Time to go for the last piece of bodywork, with the side panels, so there were grabbed and put on the bench...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200606_0948181148477885604323982212.jpg)
... these were a bit dinged in places, so they were rubbed down with 1000 grit wet and dry paper, ready for painting...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200606_1012169157809580186320487225.jpg)
... these were then given a sacrificial coat of primer to highlight the smaller dings, which allowed all the defects to be filled and rubbed back before coats of Autotek Etch Primer, Halfords Arctic Silver and Halfords Petrol Resistant Lacquer, following the directions on the can and rubbing down in between coats...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200607_1613594397386511031651029263.jpg)
... and left to cure for a week.
Once cured, the rubber stops were added to the mounting pin and the tank mounts, before each of the side panels were put into place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200610_075731674_hdr7533132097260711806.jpg?w=1700)
... thankfully finishing off the body work painting.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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I've held off doing this as I wasn't sure how I wanted this to look. From the factory these came in either polished chrome or black, and after some thought I decided to go for black.
So, the heat shield was grabbed up...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1203320136140234318501198431.jpg)
... and new stainless bolts ordered to set this off.
The heat shield was cleaned up with a wire brush attachment on a drill...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1348572998872608555560484843.jpg)
... both front and back to roughen the surface a little ready for the paint, before being cleaned down with white spirit and allowed to dry off.
The heat shield was treated to a few coats of Halfords Engine Paint...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1529434014641046560679807185.jpg)
... before it was allowed to cure off.
Once cured, the square nuts were slipped into the retainers and the new bolt threads given a light smear of nickel grease to reduce the risk of corrosion and the heat shield mounted...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_1649228907313838418821658717.jpg?w=1700)
... now, I think that looks fairly smart and completes the exhaust finally!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Now I can't remember why, but I put the spark plug to one side when I was doing the engine, as I've found it again it's time to get it done!
So, it was grabbed out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1203094193950393487270887505.jpg?w=1700)
... and the majority of the old, and in places bubbling, paint was taken off with a wire brush attachment on a drill, leaving just the bits the brush couldn't get to.
These were treated with Rust-oleum NR.1 Green Paint Stripped, which lifted the remainder with 2 treatments, so this could be washed off and put in the sun...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_133817962_hdr5219173948013492989.jpg?w=1700)
... to dry off.
Once dry, a polishing mop was popped on the drill and the BMW lettering was polished up, as this was the finish I wanted on these...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1408579172490162741004114407.jpg?w=1700)
... with these covered with masking tape and this cut back just to cover the lettering with a scalpel (in the fiddly bits) and the old gasket making method (I'll let you look at my posts on the other engine covers for that one), so it was ready to paint...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1427406024371114623748401767.jpg?w=1700)
... just as soon as I'd cleaned it down with white spirit and allowed it to dry.
With that done, the piece was given a few coats of Halfords Engine Paint, the one that cures at room temperature, mainly for ease and to match the other engine covers. The masking tape was removed very carefully with a scalpel and a pair of needle nose pliers as soon as the last coat had gone on...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200613_1617084207397662750110086149.jpg?w=1700)
... so the tape didn't set into the fresh paint as it cured, I'd made that mistake before!
Once that was cured, the cover was bolted onto the engine with a set of new stainless steel bolts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_165623431359157694719473369.jpg)
... finishing off that little job!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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Looking good!
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Onto the remaining decals and various stickers for the K75 to bring this back as close to original as I can. It's worth saying at this point that all surfaces were prepared with a good clean and a tac-clothing to remove any loose material before anything was even offered up, let alone stuck down.
First up was the 'RT' badge, which had been eased off, which meant that although the foam backing was still present...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_1708207042478495420842777833.jpg)
... an adhesive needed to be added. This was done by applying double sided tape, placed face up and covered with a cloth to protect it, before a paint tin was used to weigh it down overnight, to ensure the tape had stuck well before the tape was trimmed back...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_1223517148323437940198811259.jpg?w=1700)
... ready for application.
Before the badge was removed the position of the top left of the R was measured as 1" up from the headlight surround and 2 1/4" in from the corner to the right of the headlight surround, so this position was marked very lightly, to allow the badge to be aligned and held in place...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_1644333236726468773241637806.jpg?w=1700)
... and once I was happy with how this looked, the badge was flipped up and the backing of the tape removed before this was carefully placed...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_1646259043318728249672066985.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing off the front end nicely!
Next was onto the underwear stickers, starting with the missing sticker from the tail section cover which, despite cleaning, this up the location for the missing replacement part sticker, which allowed this to be directly placed by hand and the cover put back on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_1719383281733118855846556514.jpg)
... so with the seat up, the stickers on the base of the tail section were laid out, this was played with for a while to get the alignment as close to square and the original pictures of this bike as I could.
Once I was happy with alignment these were held in place with masking tape...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_173630526_hdr1342493350213034852.jpg)
... before the backing was eased off, the sticker was laid into place and the air slowly pushed out...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_173930912_hdr7681598371050582419.jpg)
... which finishes off the stickers on the tail fairing.
With that done, the next stickers were for the ABS pumps and again I studied the original photos taken of the K75 to check alignment, and a bit of online research led me to a decision - red or silver ABS decals, they seem to be interchangeable, so I went with silver to tie-in with the bodywork.
As with the other decals, it was popped into place and held with masking tape...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_175053694_hdr3110151015479102892.jpg)
... to allow the backing to be peeled off and the decal stuck to the surface and any trapped air gently worked out, with the decal worked around the contours of the pump, before the front cover was gently pulled off...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_175315980_hdr7508594649688259793.jpg)
... I found that pulling both front and back off, towards the unpeeled section of the sticker, effectively doubling it over on itself, was best at leaving the decal where it should be...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_175401567_hdr7798868557112101244.jpg)
... and as that pump was done, the other followed in short order.
With all of the different types of stickers and decals used here, the same was done for the homogenisation decal...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200615_180308059537167324319258556.jpg)
... followed by the unleaded fuel decal...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_1654118897177569184679591115.jpg?w=1700)
That brings me onto the most important decal on the bike, the 'Ultima' logo, I took a lot of time in aligning this on the bike...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_1658486443234474466117852502.jpg?w=1700)
... before I was confident enough the remove the backing, stick it down and begin peeling the front off, leaving the logo as it should be and looking good...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200616_170157193422029383584552261.jpg?w=1700)
... with the same done to the far side of the bike.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the bike done, just need to finish off by completing the luggage, starting with the top box, which was popped onto the bench…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200626_0748295442834531876628740836.jpg?w=1024)
… and dismantled, ready for checking over and cleaning up. On inspection I was quite lucky with this one, as nothing needed replacing.
Each piece was cleaned up with muc-off motorcycle cleaner, dried off and reassembled…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1014070772744417157537531700.jpg?w=1024)
… including the underside foam strips to protect the luggage rack and at this point the catch on the inside of the top box was adjusted to ensure a good fit when closed, rather than the rattle I got from the loose initial fit – I doubt the seal will work with the lid bouncing around as the catch wasn’t holding it tight.
I wasn’t happy with the finish of the box once cleaned and reassembled, there were a lot of shallow scratches and a couple of really quite deep gouges. I don’t want to ‘erase’ the history of the bike, but I do want it to have a fairly tidy finish.
With that in mind, I gave the areas of lighter scratches a sanding with 1000 grit wet and dry paper, with a few sprays of water to smooth the finish as much as possible. In addition to this I rubbed the top box very sparingly with linseed oil via a lint-free cloth to bring back the original finish, starting on the right (showing the contrast below)…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1025306685405839123412610610.jpg?w=1024)
… before finishing off both the remainder of the plastic box and the rubber back rest.
Once that was done, the top box mounting plate was checked over before being fitted to the bike…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1003257837959695370738985899.jpg?w=1024)
… which required the luggage rack bolts to be eased off and the mounting plate slid into place up and under the top rail of the rack before being pulled back towards the rear of the bike and located.
Which allowed the top box to be mounted…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1040288148611204636050767547.jpg?w=1024)
… finishing that box off and allowed me to move onto the tragkorbs.
After inspection a few issues were found, so I set about sorting those out. First of these was the opening strap on one was broken off, so a new one was fitted. I then moved onto the hinge, which had taken a little more wear than was normal, due to the strap being broken…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1058446572823712984533025699.jpg?w=1024)
… so these were replaced by driving the old hinges off and the new ones tapped into place with a copper-hide and a small block of wood, in a controlled manner so that nothing was damaged. While I was in there, a new bungee strap for this tragkorb was ordered and fitted as the old one was a bit shot.
Next up were the ‘touring’ badges, which had seen better days, so the first had been eased out with a car trim removal tool and the recess scraped clean of adhesive, before the second was fitted…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1153580561635891174079257643.jpg?w=1024)
… which made much more of a difference to the look of both tragkorbs than I expected.
The only job remaining was the bump strip on the bottom of one of the tragkorbs…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1356005714792324789438295465.jpg?w=1024)
… so this was removed and the mating face cleaned up and a new one ordered. Unfortunately the only one available was from Italy, took a while to arrive and cost a fair amount to import to the UK, but it’s got to be done!
With the tragkorbs back in one piece they were also given the sandpaper and very sparing linseed oil treatment…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1458150757279838889509512703.jpg?w=1024)
... which bought them up really nicely, allowing these to be mounted to the bike and allowed the tragkorb liner bags to be fitted…
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/img_20200705_1643323685188015570421178683.jpg?w=1700)
... finishing up that job, so it's just down to the check over and fixing any snagging issues.
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With all of the individual components checked, it was time to go through and see if there were any issues following final assembly.
First off, the small oil leak from the front of the engine, which was tracked back to the oil pressure sensor...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2019/09/dsc_0773861094598.jpg?w=1700)
... to fix this the engine oil had to be drained back out before the sensor was removed and replaced with a new unit, but with me being far too clumsy, the wire fitting was broken off, so this was replaced, the connection remade and the rubber boot refitted, so job done.
Next up was a troublesome front brake, it had bled fine but it was creaking when applied. I always start with the worst case and work back from there (sometimes to my benefit, sometimes not so much), so the front wheel had to come off...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200621_1124316212429310619095742505.jpg?w=1700)
... each disc was then removed and inspected in turn, but no warping or other issue, so everything was rebuilt and reassembled, but the creaking persisted.
The calipers were next to be visually checked, but before I got too far into it, I can't say why but I decided to swap the 2 pads over in the right side caliper and on testing it, the creak had completely gone! I'll take that!
I then wheeled the bike out of the garage to check nothing was fouling the steering, to which both the fuel and temperature gauge smacked the infill panel...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200621_1252294355288402617308433380.jpg?w=1700)
... so the mounts for the gauges and handlebar angle were played with until I had free turning bars and I was able to read the dials...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200621_1423406612677283900344536535.jpg?w=1700)
... but during this process, a wire become detached from the ABS switch, so this was soldered back into place...
... and the switch popped back into place.
With that done, that allowed the bike to be run for a while, run it up and down the drive to clear the ABS check and that warning light stopped blinking, and used both brakes to clear that standard warning light too, everything was working lovely!
Unfortunately after about 5 minutes of running the battery started hissing and as soon as I realised, the battery boiled over.
As quickly as I could, it was bike off, grab the garden hose and hosed down the bike, partly to dilute off the battery acid and partly to cool everything down as I suspected fire was a possibility.
Once everything had calmed down a bit, a pair of gloves went on and the battery was removed, thankfully no acid damage.
On investigating the set up, and running the bike on a booster pack, there was no overcharging, so that pretty much ruled out the bike being at fault. The battery was topped up and charged but it failed to hold a charge and one cell was getting really warm, potentially indicating a dead or shorted cell. So a new battery was ordered to replace the failed unit, it was fairly elderly, so I'm not too worried.
While I was waiting for the new battery, I got on with checking the other systems with the aid of a booster pack to run the electricals. I discovered that the windscreen only worked once after powering up then failed to respond to the switch, so this was popped out and it was clear that the common power supply had suffered during the playing around with the handlebars. So, with some blind disconnecting of connectors the wiring for the switch was taken out.
This allowed the wiring to be unsoldered from the switch and both to be tested on the bench. The wiring had no breaks, and the switch was good for the lowering contacts...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200627_1147411192020556448502214804.jpg?w=1700)
... but when switched to the raising contacts there was no continuity.
So the switch was disassembled to allow the contacts to be cleaned, and bent slightly back up, not so far as to stop the switch moving, but enough to ensure good contact.
From here the switch was reassembled, electrically tested and found to be good, before put back into place on the bike and tested to make sure it was all good.
The next item on the list was the OEM tool kit...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/05/img_20200531_1138045636814086128075032756-e1594315400810.jpg?w=1700)
... which was in good order, with nothing missing, so it was put straight into the tail fairing.
Lastly I ran through the bike to check as many bits as I could ahead of the MOT roadworthiness test here in the UK. It is rather handy the UK Government publish the test parameters online!
Thankfully only a few bits to do, such as a red rear reflector...
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1624013073842809186638863172.jpg)
... and onto adjusting the headlight aim.
To do this I rolled the bike back so the bike was 3.8m from the back wall of the garage and measured the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground and marked this on the window frame as a reference. I was then able to adjust the headlight from being far too low, to just about right via the adjustment knob in the back, bottom right hand side of the headlight, while sat on the bike to s better level.
Although I can test the brakes work, unfortunately I can't test brake efficiency or emissions before the test without specialist kit, so we'll have to see what comes back from the test on that.
Either way, that's the bike as ready for the test as it can be, so it was booked in, just have to wait for the test now!
As always, if you'd like further details, please see motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com (http://motorcycleprojects.wordpress.com)
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With the MOT roadworthiness test identifying no issues at all, I was a happy chappy!
With that done and the bike good to go she was given a good clean and taken for an extended ride.
Although I was happy with the work done, she doesn’t suit how I ride, as you can imagine I was disappointed.
(https://motorcycleprojects.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/img_20200705_1517129561344524506509721248.jpg?w=1024)
So, the final news on the BMW K75RT Ultima is that she will be for sale just as soon as I’ve identified where I want to list her, totted up how much it’s cost (as I’ll list for that price, effectively the buyer will get the labour for free) and written an advert describing as much as I can of the work done.
Watch out for the advert!
In the meantime I would like to thank people and organisations who have been key in making the restoration/refurbishment possible and otherwise haven't had any thanks so far:
> Heritage Stickers (http://www.heritagestickers.eu/cat/ (http://www.heritagestickers.eu/cat/)) - especially for custom printing the paint code stickers for me, alongside all the others provided to finish the job off perfectly
> Brad Angove (https://www.youtube.com/user/BradAngove (https://www.youtube.com/user/BradAngove)) - for really useful advice on spray/rattle can painting which really improved the finish I achieved over the last project
> Chris Harris (https://www.youtube.com/user/BavarianBomberWrench/videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/BavarianBomberWrench/videos)) - for great step by step advice on how to pull various bits of the K75 apart and repair them! Particularly useful for making up studs to realign the gearbox when refitting, spline lubing and removing mirror glass without breaking it (still glad I got that perfect first time)!
> Shel Smith (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC78zPlzaTZI2WxAckclwIzQ (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC78zPlzaTZI2WxAckclwIzQ)) - for another source of great step-by step advice (with text explaining bits too!), particularly useful for gearbox and clutch adjustment and boot issues
> Online forums, such as themotorbikeforum and motobrick for advice in general
> Motorworks (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Home/index.php (https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Home/index.php)) - for really accessible new and used genuine BMW parts, I try to avoid using pattern so these guys were really useful
> eBay and especially Kays Fastners selling via eBay - for all my stainless steel bolt needs!
> Halfords - for ease of access to paint, colour matched stuff there is great and is only down the road
> Last but by no means least - my long suffering, ever supportive wife![/list]
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If you are interested in her, please find the full advert on the for sale section of the forum and the auction on eBay via https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254655643986 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254655643986)