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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Gr-Racing on February 23, 2018, 02:54:54 AM
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Hey guys im having problems with my K discharging the battery after cranck, the bike runs but then i turn it off and try again and the battery is no good.
Is a new battery did some searching and i think my K is missing a few grounds, i only have 1 small black wire going to the negative terminal of the battery and the side of trans thats it.
Saw a post that their is a ground from the coil pack bracket to the frame a thicker wire , wich my bike doesn’t have.
How many wires do your K’s have in the negative terminal of the battery?
Im pretty sure im missing a ground from frame to motor and maybe a thicker wire to battery
Thanks
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Some photos of w
i only have 1 small black wire going to the negative terminal of the battery and the side of trans thats it.
My bike has only one cable from the transmission to the negative terminal, too. The engine starts and runs well.
- What do you need to do to start the bike when you shut off the engine? Recharge the battery? Do you jump start the engine from a different battery?
- How long does the engine run after it has been started?
- Does the engine quit without being shut down?
- Have you tested the resting voltage of the battery and the battery voltage when the engine has been running?
- Have you checked the connections to the alternator?
- Does the ground cable from the battery to the transmission have clean and tight terminals at both ends?
- Is the positive battery terminal clean and tight?
- How many connections are at the battery's positive terminal?
- Does the charge light in the instrument cluster light up when the ignition key is switched to On then turn off when the engine is started and revved?
- When was this new battery purchased and what is its make and model? New batteries might sometimes be defective.
Photos of the various connections to which you refer would be helpful.
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If you suspect a residual load is draining your battery with the ignition off, then it would be worthwhile to measure the quiescent current being drawn from the battery at rest. Normally, the only circuit in-play with the ignition off is the clock in the instrument cluster (I'm making a big assumption here that your K75 is stock).
(1) Putting an ammeter in series with the positive lead of your battery and setting the scale to 100mA or so will show you the quiescent current. Couple of warnings: don't turn on the ignition or try and start the bike with this setup; you'll blow your meter. And the readings won't be accurate, only indicative, because of the burden voltage of the meter.
(2) If the wiring on the bike is stock, the quiescent current drain on the battery is tens of uA, very little. If the wiring has been modified by a PO, then you should start your diagnosis there, possibly be reversing the changes or eliminating the aftermarket accessory.
(3) If you have a reading anywhere more than a mA, there is something draining your battery. If not, then your battery condition is probably poor which is leading to your symptoms.
(4) I would pull all the fuses and see what the current draw is. If it is still high, the non-switched circuitry on your bike is the problem. Start tracing those sets of wires.
(5) If your K75 is a late model with ABS brakes, it's been known that the ABS relay can go bad and start to put a load on the battery with the ignition off. Pull the ABS relay and see if the current draw goes down. If it does, replace the ABS relay.
(6) If it's not the non-switched circuitry causing your problem, start to re-insert fuses in the panel and observe the meter. If you insert a fuse and the current draw goes up, the problem is in that circuit. Start your tracing to find the problem.