Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 05:58:10 AM
Like many other I'm in the process of building a Cafe Racer or Scrafe Racer as I like to call her as she's more of a cafe/scrambler hybrid lookswise [emoji16]
She was originally an 86 k100 RT 2 valve with 65k miles
So I've been pricking away doing some smaller jobs and I noticed the needle roller bearings are shot on the clutch actuaction arm gearbox end.
These are proving to be a nightmare to remove, has anyone done this previously or any tips on how to remove both these bearings??
I assume you can't drive them out from one end as the design of the arm would stop this, or is there actually a bushing in between both sets of bearings that would drive out also??
Any help would be appreciated.
And am planning on doing a full strip/build thread with photos once Hilda is up and running [emoji1303]
Thanks guys
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on February 21, 2018, 07:44:23 AM
. . . I noticed the needle roller bearings are shot on the clutch actuaction arm gearbox end.. . .Welcome. Post some photos of your relic.
I assume you can't . . .
Your assumptions are unimportant and are distractions. Accurate descriptions are helpful. Are you discussing part #8 in the attached illustration?
Remove the circlip, remove the washer, remove the pin, heat up the arm in that assembly area with a heat gun or hot water, drive the bearing out in the direction of the arrow, get a couple of useful workshop manuals. The one you're using doesn't cut it.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1601-210218073534.png)
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 07:54:39 AM
Yes could do with a manual although all the info I've needed so far has come from this site, so appreciate all the help [emoji1303]
Below was her in poor state when I bought her [emoji24] Someone half attempted a cafe racer project but the work was very poor [emoji107](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180221/ea6abf4d25fe7f622a119ae17f00be11.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 07:58:13 AM
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on February 21, 2018, 08:19:33 AM
I think the previous owner had a decent vision. I liked his retaining the tail cowl and modifying the mudguard. That isn't seen often. You've taken up the challenge full strength. Good luck with your project.
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 08:30:55 AM
I like the primary-color coordination on your tool peg board. The recommendation about getting a manual wasn't to help you necessarily; it was to help me. :gigglesThanks Laitch
I think the previous owner had a decent vision. I liked his retaining the tail cowl and modifying the mudguard. That isn't seen often. You've taken up the challenge full strength. Good luck with your project.
Yeah it was a good idea, he cut the tail piece arse ways so couldn't be used unfortunately, but I will be using the front mud guard [emoji1303]
Thanks my friend
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on February 21, 2018, 09:08:55 AM
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 09:19:15 AM
Welcome! Spend some time figuring out how to get the line of the bottom of the tank as close to horizontal as possible. Probably by raising the front mounts a bit and lowering the rear. That angled tank is a major reason why 99% of K bike cappucino racers look like crap.Yeah I see where your coming from haven't seen many with that done, quite like how they sit as is tho..
Defo worth a thought tho appreciate it [emoji1303]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: Laitch on February 21, 2018, 11:33:14 AM
Defo worth a thought tho appreciate it (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji1303.png)Rainman gets my award for inventive use of existing parts for this tail cowl conversion (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,7596.msg53080.html#msg53080)—practical and good looking.
Post by: wally.fisher on February 21, 2018, 11:38:27 AM
Welcome. Post some photos of your relic.
Your assumptions are unimportant and are distractions. Accurate descriptions are helpful. Are you discussing part #8 in the attached illustration?
Remove the circlip, remove the washer, remove the pin, heat up the arm in that assembly area with a heat gun or hot water, drive the bearing out in the direction of the arrow, get a couple of useful workshop manuals. The one you're using doesn't cut it.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1601-210218073534.png)
I use a very short 8 x 25mm rawl bolt inserted into the bearing just shy of the inside shoulder, I then expand the rawl bolt in the bearing and drive it out from the opposite side. Simples.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 11:48:30 AM
Good idea Wally, will defo need to give this a shot [emoji1303]
I use a very short 8 x 25mm rawl bolt inserted into the bearing just shy of the inside shoulder, I then expand the rawl bolt in the bearing and drive it out from the opposite side. Simples.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thank you
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on February 21, 2018, 11:52:03 AM
Regards Martin.
[ Invalid Attachment ]
Post by: KHilda86 on February 21, 2018, 11:59:33 AM
To save future problems, add a grease nipple and grease a couple of times a year. Easy job and greasing pushes out the crap and stops the entry of more crap and water.Yeah that makes a lot of sense, you just drill through and tap a tread Martin yeah??
Regards Martin.Clutch grease nipple 2.jpg (41.2 kB . 768x576 - viewed 407 times)
Thanks
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Post by: Martin on February 21, 2018, 12:24:53 PM
Regards Martin.