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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Enfield on February 18, 2018, 04:03:41 PM
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Hi. Need a little help here. My rotor seal is leaking - Think I fitted it wrong last time... But as everything Else is dry and non leaking I was hoping that someone could tell me if it is possible to change without removing the cam chain cover? Think I remember a thread about it - but cant find it?
Regards
Christian
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Do you mean the seal in the front end of the crankshaft?
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Yes Think so - sorry about my tech english... the seal that is behind the ignition rotor. My Haynes manual only explains how to mount timing chain cover with seal fitted - but cant I just pry it out with a screwdriver and put in the new one - without removing timing chain cover?
Regards
Christian
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- but cant I just pry it out with a screwdriver and put in the new one - without removing timing chain cover?
Regards
Christian
Yes of course you can, but you're in the risk of damaging the surface where the seal lips should run.
Another metod is to use a small drill and couple of self tapping screws and pull out the seal by the
screw heads.... be shure to remove all drill shavings.
Both metods calls for close to extreme care so you don't damage anything.
It isn't that much work to remove the timing cover, and your're a lot more safe and the work then
gonna be a lot easier......just my opinion.
The seal should be preshaped (if you use the genuine one with a teflon lip)....on a other forum some
have used a pill box in the appropiate diameter for this....it also must be used when the cover together
with the seal being put back in place on the engine.
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Great - thank you. The method described with two screws is the Way I Will go! The cover and everything Else is all dry - fitted everything after I had it powder coated. Somewhere I read that it was very important that the lips of the seal was pointing invards?? Used a thin tube that just fitted over the cranckshaft.... now I now NOT to believe everything that I read on the net :musicboohoo:
Regards
Christian
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Somewhere I read that it was very important that the lips of the seal was pointing invards?? Used a thin tube that just fitted over the cranckshaft....
Regards
Christian
That's the preshaping and pill box.....
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Hope I am NOT making a fool of my self.... but “ pill box” ??
Regards
Christian
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See if I'll find it on the other forum, later....
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Here (http://www.k100-forum.com/t3654-fitting-of-shaft-seal-in-timing-chain-cover) you have something to study this evening also check the links....
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Somewhere I read that it was very important that the lips of the seal was pointing invards?? Used a thin tube that just fitted over the cranckshaft....
Regards
Christian
Sorry, I didn't read carefully enough earlier this evening.......a thin tube would also function for this work.
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Thank you :-) seems to me i did it the right way - but messed up somehow :dunno .
I will give it a go again...fortunately I somehow managed to order 3 seals :-)
Regards
Christian
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Update.... it was not the rotor seal that was leaking - but my timing chain cover... actually leaking badly
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/e85b476d79b95ab9eae607547a764c20.jpg)
Dont know why - I cleaned it and applied Drei Bond? There is no gasket for the timing chain cover - right ?
Damn valve covers and all is dry - and now OFF again 🤪.
Regards
Christian
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Shouldn’t I change the rotorseal when I refit the timing chain cover? Even though it wasn’t leaking ? And is there anything better than Drei Bond for the cover - I was very thorough with everything...learned that when I had the engine from my Land Rover out three times in two days🤥.
Regards
Christian
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Shouldn’t I change the rotorseal when I refit the timing chain cover? Even though it wasn’t leaking ? And is there anything better than Drei Bond for the cover
If the seal is almost brand new I would have reused it.
Drei Bond should be more than good enough....check the mating surfaces one more time, also for straightness
follow the instructions for the sealant about cure time.
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If the seal is almost brand new I would have reused it.
Drei Bond should be more than good enough....check the mating surfaces one more time, also for straightness
follow the instructions for the sealant about cure time.
Ok thanks. You got a point about straightness - that was something I did not check.
Regards
Christian
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Could be a idea to clean the suspected area to see exactly where the leak is.
Using talc on dry area makes it easier to spot.....
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Good point ..... what is weird about it though is that it looks to be leaking in many places. Not much but some sweat here and there - and two places where it is bad.. That is why I thought of red loctite which I used for the engine bottom ( is that belly pan) when I changed filter and cleaned it. No leaks there
Christian
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Spray talc is easier to direct onto the suspect area. And they make your Brick smell real nice. As per Inge allow plenty of time for the sealant to cure
Regards Martin.
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Also, follow the recommended cover bolt tightening pattern and torque specs. Were the locating dowels in position?
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I Will give it a go again - dovels was in position. As I have the forks OFF at the moment and the K on a lift it is an easy job. But hey I managed to change all seals in Oil/waterpump and it is still dry - so I suspect that something is in the way ?
Regards
Christian
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That is why I thought of red loctite which I used for the engine bottom ( is that belly pan) when I changed filter and cleaned it. No leaks there.
Yes, Loctite make excellent products too.....if you have some left (I would guess 510) from a former job
it would of course be a good idea to use it for the timing cover.
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Thanks - It Will be a while before I Can give it a Road test - right now it is around 10 degrees fahrenheit and stormy... my garage is like a freezer❄️
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Been busy at work... But finally had the time to take the cam cover OFF and clean everything.
The camshaftseal was leaking - changed it and it is thight now - fitted it backwards on the camshaft in order to preshape the seal then I gently massaged it and put it in olace in the cover
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180417/26f2d61f2525cddc6602f35baae7911f.jpg)
It is dry [emoji16]
I did also have multiple leaks around boltholes... Think I found out why... My torquewrench starts at 30 NM ... so I handtightened it the first time - but this time I bought a small torquewrench.... and damn 8 NM is really not very much... I suspect I overthigtened last time - thus removing the gasket[emoji848] always thought I had it in my wrist....
Regards
Christian
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. . . and damn 8 NM is really not very much . . . I suspect I overthigtened last time. I always thought I had it in my wrist....
You still have it but in that range, you have it in your fingers.
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Good point ..... what is weird about it though is that it looks to be leaking in many places. Not much but some sweat here and there - and two places where it is bad.. That is why I thought of red loctite which I used for the engine bottom ( is that belly pan) when I changed filter and cleaned it. No leaks there
Christian
Red threadlocker is generally regarded as permanent and usually requires heat to remove the fastener. For most applications medium blue locks a fastener and can still be removed with some extra effort. There are specific products for thread sealers although that is usually only necessary when there is a through hole to a coolant line.
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Red threadlocker is generally regarded as permanent and usually requires heat to remove the fastener. For most applications medium blue locks a fastener and can still be removed with some extra effort. There are specific products for thread sealers although that is usually only necessary when there is a through hole to a coolant line.
Hi stokester
It is not red threadlocker i referred to but liquid gasket - also from locticte - do see the confusion as I also initially Think of threadlocker when Loctite is mentioned.
Regards
Chr
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Hi stokester
It is not red threadlocker i referred to but liquid gasket - also from locticte - do see the confusion as I also initially Think of threadlocker when Loctite is mentioned.
Regards
Chr
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Got it.
Yes, as a mechanic when I hear red Loctite it means permanent threadlocker.
When I need a liquid gasket Permatex Ultragrey RTV is my brand of choice.