MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: woodgeek on February 03, 2018, 11:25:01 PM
-
So, I purchased a 1985 K100RT last weekend. After looking at a lot of other builds, I’m probably going for a military scrambler look. Here are some pics of my K from the Craigslist ad and after I began taking the fairing off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/65394e9432445d449a103a0d682b85b8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/bd12ba634e58686d75f9cf727d6795ff.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/d08a1149efe6f65a497f607f0c085869.jpg)
-
Here are some of the inspirations for the look I’m going for.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/b442c8b5b0e557763e7fb827687ce53d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/ebf8895a14c7660ad5f15ab22b39f883.jpg)
-
I opened up the fuel tank today. This bike hasn’t been titled since 2000 so safe to say the fuel in the tank is almost 20 years old.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/aa66b9dfaa1e29504f70b12104efdc18.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/93938f3eebcfa151fb638eee74204f18.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/905a182e7b7a7281bcfa6eb036ecf5cb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/15dc0687024bfafc67a84a8b5fdaa00f.jpg)
Here’s a pic of the ancient battery and the new one that’ll go in its place.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/818d95e6e6f63b070639f979401c7431.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/1f99247d73f349311b6ddb9ce90bb78a.jpg)
-
Working on getting the tank cleaned out. 50/50 mix Oil Eater and water sat in there overnight.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/7363b31750b98528df84506f51035490.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180204/1c917a32f005206c607021918652f86a.jpg)
-
Not much new to report. I rinsed out the tank and it needed a little more soaking. This time I put some LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner mixed with water. Will check it again tonight.
Injectors are packaged up to be sent off to Mr Injector for cleaning. Fuel pump vibration and strainer have been ordered from EME. Also ordered gaskets so I can check valve clearances. I'm going to go with a Carter P74095, simply because they are a known quantity and an easy pump to find. I didn't want to pay for a Bosch/BMW part but I have no idea where Enduralast or the other fakes are made.
-
I rinsed out the tank and it needed a little more soaking.. . . I'm going to go with a Carter P74095, simply because they are a known quantity and an easy pump to find.
White vinegar works wonders cleaning aluminum tanks.
Does the diameter of that Carter pump match the diameter of your fuel pump damper assembly? These assemblies and pumps have often been switched by previous owners. What is the diameter of your existing pump? Adaptions can be fabricated to fit a narrow pumps into wide damper assembly; a wide pump can't be shrunk, of course. :giggles
-
The diameter of the carter fuel pump is smaller than the original fuel pump. Someone used fuel cell foam as a spacer and fit the carter fuel pump inside the Bosch "can". I’m thinking of doing this. The only thing that worries me is, what happens to the fuel pump when the foam begins to break down? Link to the article: http://www.mychamp.com/K100/4/ (http://www.mychamp.com/K100/4/)
(http://www.mychamp.com/K100/4/Images/4.jpg)
-
. . . what happens to the fuel pump when the foam begins to break down?
If the foam breaks down, the fuel pump will break down, the fuel filter will clog and forward motion will cease, unless you're on a downhill run. You'll just need to believe what you have read or find some corroborative information.
It looks like an arts-and-crafts project so at least it will keep your hands busy and keep you out of trouble.
-
It looks like an arts-and-crafts project so at least it will keep your hands busy and keep you out of trouble.
:hehehe
I've been thinking more about what might happen if/when that foam breaks down. Compared to the mass of the vibration damper, there's not much there. Also, when foam breaks down, it sort of disintegrates. The damper turned to a gooey sticky mess just destined to clog something. . .
Lots of racers use fuel cell foam in their cars. When it disintegrates they replace it. I haven't read any threads wailing about clogged filters or clogged injectors so :dunno2:
-
You could try clamping fuel resistant fuel line around the inner pump. It is available in a few different diameters, cut three pieces that can go around the inner pump, split the hose and secure with stainless steel cable ties. Or cut the hose about 1" short of the diameter thread stainless ties through the hose and tighten in the gap. You will need to stagger the joins at 120 deg. Once you have the hose secure on the inner pump push it into the old shell.
Regards Martin.
-
White vinegar works wonders cleaning aluminum tanks.
I thought my tank was close to clean so I rinsed with hot water and dumped in a gallon of vinegar to slosh around. Then I made the mistake of feeling around where I couldn’t see. Inside the well where the fuel pump sits and I couldn’t see is a bunch of melted damper that’s adhered to my tank.
Now I’m gently scraping with a flat blades screw driver getting this black hole cleaned. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji23.png)
-
Inside the well where the fuel pump sits and I couldn’t see is a bunch of melted damper that’s adhered to my tank.
Relax. Let it soak for a few days immersed in vinegar then remove the sludge. It should come off much more easily after that using a shop rag and a piece of hardwood or plastic as a scraper. I'd be reluctant to trust my finesse using a metal gouge like a screwdriver.
-
Someone used fuel cell foam as a spacer . . .
The someone asserts this fact:
The foam normally occupies 3% of the volume, leaving 97% for fuel. The foam will allow gasoline to surround the fuel pump. This is important because in-tank fuel pumps are designed to be cooled by the gasoline that surrounds the pump.
but then he does this (http://www.mychamp.com/K100/4/Pages/Image1.html) during the assembly which seems to defeat his assertion. That compaction would tend to reduce the foam's ability to hold enough fuel for cooling. Radiational cooling probably still happens.
In addition, it seems like some foam works with alcohol fuel and some doesn't, so there's that to consider. Then I read about the effective use of nerfballs for fuel cell material. That would add a fun element.
:yippee:
-
That individual chose to wrap a piece of foam completely around the circumference of the pump. What you said. Laitch, seems reasonable to me. It lead me to think that another way to secure the new pump is to just use four or five long striips of fuel tank foam. That would leave a good portion of the pump surface exposed to fuel contact and cooling.
-
Getting ready for the intake rebuild
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180211/52b9d88fded5ec49b3b11fc887206ee6.jpg)
-
Perfect opportunity to clean and polish that aluminium. Block up the holes first.
-
Perfect opportunity to clean and polish that aluminium. Block up the holes first.
That’s the plan. [emoji6][emoji106]
I can’t believe the four manifold fittings that bolt onto the intake cost $50 each. Mine had tiny cracks and I was replacing the rest of the intake rubber anyway.
-
I am trying to leave mine in place. That way I won't need to replace them.
-
Cleaned and rebuilt Brembo calipers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180219/6a5cc762762dfd5301c7b0834d2e6aee.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180219/c0b1601f054f62ef8441d8c52f973fa6.jpg)
-
Rear caliper cleaned and ready to be reassembled.
Front stainless lines also got a cleaning.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180219/8cd687176c5ad84822dc80c2e6d0feca.jpg)
-
Rear caliper cleaned and ready to be reassembled.
Front stainless lines also got a cleaning.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180219/8cd687176c5ad84822dc80c2e6d0feca.jpg)
Is your front stainless line one piece. if it is how long is it
-
Is your front stainless line one piece. if it is how long is it
There are two lines. The previous owner replaced the original rubber lines with stainless.
-
Valves measure good. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
And ‘yay’ for new rubber bits!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/5f73ec95ff35a243a01f04a8e7a72788.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/c365b1a3f9c2caa1c813c929c0f6d099.jpg)
-
Old switchgear vs nice, new switchgear. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji4.png)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/96a7861cd500e1ccb33d5dcb04555d8a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/08947c3a230fc807c5daf187944eaef1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/463e74c640ca1c6e83a56b60bac4bebf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/c827d2bf639e6f42d9516d336a4e8735.jpg)
-
Old switchgear vs nice, new switchgear. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji4.png)
You might be interested in one of prakash's posts concerning switch gear. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9495.msg85505.html#msg85505) Some sprucing-up of your old gear could bring you some bucks. In fact, you might be interested in the entire thread if you haven't seen it already.
-
K bike "C" bars fitted and gauge pod lowered by cutting an inch off the bottom of the mount and drilling new holes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/0c4bd4ca66550dc4b5f56b28fabebeb3.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/5913e6a622219d0494111c13278d6183.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/582bd4185cb45bb24a4b56eb9b8f7c8e.jpg)
Mount is shown before I cut it and drilled the new holes.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180222/b5f8d668eb73eaeabedd4983cae07c75.jpg)
-
You might be interested in one of prakash's posts concerning switch gear. (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,9495.msg85505.html#msg85505) Some sprucing-up of your old gear could bring you some bucks. In fact, you might be interested in the entire thread if you haven't seen it already.
I’m definitely going to reassemble my old switchgear and resell them. I wanted new but I’m sure someone else can use mine.
-
I found the leaks in the fuel tank. Now I need to prep the interior surface and order some Red Kote to take care of the pinholes and prevent future ones. If the pinholes are too large to coat over, I’ll repair the holes with JB Weld and then coat the inside of the tank.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/214df2e36dfa15409936b3197da0c9ed.jpg)
-
If the pinholes are too large to coat over . . .
What does that mean exactly? Coat over with paint?
RedKote or POR coatings will come with specific tank preparation instructions that must be followed scrupulously. Do your research before purchasing. You might find it easier to try the Chaos quick and dirty method, buy a used tank that's in good condition, or buy new old stock if you can find it.
-
What does that mean exactly? Coat over with paint?
I was using the term “coat” to refer to any tank sealer. Most of the tank sealers talk about repairing holes larger than 1/32” before application. Red Kote specifically states: “Any leaks larger than 1/32nd of an inch (1 mm) should be repaired by a professional who knows how to avoid an explosion while repairing a fuel tank. Soldering is the method usually used to repair leaks. Never use a torch on a fuel tank unless you have been properly trained.”
All tank treatments have reported failures. Most of those failures can be attributed to poor surface preparation.
-
“New” coils arrived today from Great Britain. :2thumbup:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/497c43cdcf0aec4ee9c013c5d3dd65f1.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/361bf296d871630eae20cfd32131e271.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/f1287deb90455afba389ec3b20436e7d.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180223/7e0b7aad475005e2d3e95a77aa310c22.jpg)
One of my original coils measured as bad. 2.0 ohm primary with an open circuit secondary.
-
Soldering is the method usually used to repair leaks. Never use a torch on a fuel tank unless you have been properly trained.”
Brazing or tig-welding an aluminum fuel tank is a specialist's skill. It shouldn't cost excessively to use a professional for that purpose. You might want to be certain another qualifying leak isn't about reveal itself though.
-
New Spal 30100402 fan installed to replace the original one. From the sound of it, the old one didn’t have too many miles left in it. I trimmed all mounting tabs and reinforcing ribs from the new fan frame and cut some slots in the old frame, allowing it to fit over the Spal frame.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/59685da96422f25e9bfec430de600448.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/8b0d73ba9924c78b93128c554f6f559e.jpg)
-
Installed turn signals to replace the ones that didn’t come with my K. These are commonly available on eBay and the internet. They are usually branded as K&S or Bikemaster.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/f74db0237a9bbe7f590d13ddb13fd7c8.jpg)
-
Installed turn signals to replace the ones that didn’t come with my K.
It would be helpful for others if you explained what type they are and where you found them.
-
It would be helpful for others if you explained what type they are and where you found them.
I bought my signals from Dime City Cycles. I probably paid too much. I’ve seen them on eBay and through many other cycle shops. I drilled two holes in the tail section for the mounting screws. Self stick adhesive pads are included but I wouldn’t trust those. These are single filament so they can’t function as running/marker lights and turn signals.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/5d9f7e51a2136d6935c518d7ec4f225f.jpg)
The parts included are pictured below:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/faea3a460fd9b845cdee7644a4406b4c.jpg)
-
"New" Bosch orange post coils installed. Ready to be reconnected when the new plug wires arrive.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/3c172cb40fbc476b87a34a639012ca5f.jpg)
I repaired a piece of the tail section that was broken. After the JB Weld is fully cured, I will sand it down. The previous owner had removed the seat stay which let the seat hinge snap off a chunk of fiberglass. I still need to fill and smooth some other body blemishes with JB Weld in preparation for the new paint job.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/594dda8fc98f82c7e40b12f5e2fd6624.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/1b29e4e6f7d26bacaaf5ead9fb0b7adb.jpg)
-
I had a bunch on pin holes in my tank. The cause was a ferrous fuel filter that had corroded into nothing that deposited flake in the bottom seam. Galvanic reaction did it thing over the course of 7 years sitting idle prior to my purchase.
Be sure to flush the tank of all these pieces prior to repair. I used a mix of h2o2 and alum for a couple days then strong vinegar for a couple days. Flushed with water then repaired.
I used a MAP gas torch and aluminum solder rods. It has held for 2 plus years without any worries of a tank lining failing.
Cheers
Rick
-
I had a bunch on pin holes in my tank. The cause was a ferrous fuel filter that had corroded into nothing that deposited flake in the bottom seam. Galvanic reaction did it thing over the course of 7 years sitting idle prior to my purchase.
Be sure to flush the tank of all these pieces prior to repair. I used a mix of h2o2 and alum for a couple days then strong vinegar for a couple days. Flushed with water then repaired.
I used a MAP gas torch and aluminum solder rods. It has held for 2 plus years without any worries of a tank lining failing.
Thank you for the tip Rick! Did you use the rods from the outside or the inside? I'm guessing the inside but didn't want to assume.
-
From the outside.
I should add that I used a Dremel tool to grind out all the bad metal. I then filled with the rod. If it was too proud I then ground it down some, leaving some filler in a layer around the patch.
-
Haven't had much time to work on anything so far this week. More parts are arriving, waiting to be installed this weekend: spark plug wires, organic brake pads and some moly paste to do the final drive spline lube. This weekend I hope to reinstall the throttle bodies and work on repairing the fuel tank. I picked up a clean, complete K1100 side/centerstand on eBay for $55 shipped that will replace my existing collapse/rust prone unit.
-
Got my fuel pump rebuilt. It’s made using the shell of my original fuel pump, a Carter P74095 fuel pump that I got from Rockauto and a foam adapter from Euro motoelectrics. The Carter fuel pump is one that has been adapted before. I didn’t want to use fuel cell foam or hose to adapt it to fit within the hollowed out shell. I don’t trust any foam not to degrade in fuel, not even nitrile foam so I potted the whole thing in JB Weld. The fuel filter that comes with the carter will fit if you fold it a little. It’s a LOT tougher than the cheesy and fragile BMW pre filter. The failure of the BMW pre filter coupled with garbage in the tank is the doom of many K fuel pumps.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/0206206fd96aea570ccf70161fdc7d3d.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/b81c95dc84a3b9c44c20316bc95e3bdf.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/a52328cba6b8dd591eef16460cb18aa9.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/588b5f128e1e4f2c5d8f5df78a3f22f8.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/5655fda242ce8b68fa1f6989ec9adf31.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/ef32180bf75256db1de64d45159ee19f.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180304/b89da44b9ebac97b649bd052133c2b07.jpg)
-
New Spal fan installed to replace the original one. From the sound of it, the old one didn’t have too many miles left in it. I trimmed the mounting tabs from the new fan frame and cut some slots in the old frame, allowing it to fit over the Spal frame.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/59685da96422f25e9bfec430de600448.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180225/8b0d73ba9924c78b93128c554f6f559e.jpg)
Looked nice and neat and inspired me to replace my Fan. Should be able to hide the horns behind it too. :clap:
-
Looked nice and neat and inspired me to replace my Fan. Should be able to hide the horns behind it too. :clap:
Glad my post could inspire you. Hopefully others can learn from me as I follow in the footsteps of giants. [emoji106]
-
Throttle bodies are reinstalled with fresh rubber. That fuel rail needs some fresh paint before I install the injectors and fuel lines.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/fd700884b6a88b69fc188de18510cff0.jpg)
-
Rebuilt front calipers installed. After I took these pics I noticed those dry pins. So, I put a dab of moly paste on them where the spring contacts and gave the pins a spin with some needle nose pliers to spread the grease around. It doesn’t take a lot, you just don’t want dry pins with metal on metal contact.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/08e6a768407f6c05912b1ddd3e8e0e4e.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180306/97b90679be32c90316df55d10680d612.jpg)
-
Paint prep.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180316/e095d698ebafcc6964ac92648b6db1ca.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180316/e78d124bbef88f7387c957f2d0dbaf1c.jpg)
-
“New” centerstand ready to install.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180325/8879ac0ab8f7af6da7600995d70a7b9b.jpg)
-
Up on the lift and ready for more work.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180326/965abe3138c29694aea73c1e351c0ec1.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180326/3f78e7bbab6ddeab34caf956acf31f60.jpg)
-
I'm curious, have you looked at the cylinder bores already? What do the bores in a motor sitting 18 years look like? :popcorm
-
I'm curious, have you looked at the cylinder bores already? What do the bores in a motor sitting 18 years look like? :popcorm
Haven’t dug that deep into the motor. I’m curious but also apprehensive enough not to want to look. If I don’t see damage from stuck rings, it’s not there, right?
-
When you’re sealing your tank, an appropriately sized cottage cheese container lid will make your life easier. (https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji23.png)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/f509503775c4b19aa0fd9bca107381da.jpg)
-
Adding color to the bodywork—OD green.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/eae4604ff3c181d6cbb4b6a677b93caa.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/9fba71d07f86db95e8bf22f6b81cb94d.jpg)
-
Inspiration for my “look”
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180330/110777976c0086e7360a833980d59ff9.jpg)
-
If the motor turns by hand with little effort (plugs out) you are probably ok. A frozen ring from water entering through an open valve or coolant past a gasket will make trouble. There's plenty signs of moisture on the intake manifold. A stuck ring forced down the bore by starting may break. USB borescopes are under $20 on eBay and an essential tool in the modern toolbox.
-
Haven’t dug that deep into the motor. I’m curious but also apprehensive enough not to want to look. If I don’t see damage from stuck rings, it’s not there, right?
Right. It's all about positive affirmation.
Spray fogging oil into each cylinder after you stop wringing your hands and before you undertake rotating the crankshaft or starting. :giggles
-
Spray fogging oil into each cylinder after you stop wringing your hands and before you undertake rotating the crankshaft or starting. :giggles
I did that before I checked valve clearances. Thanks for the positive affirmation. [emoji6][emoji23][emoji106]
-
Thanks for the positive affirmation.
I'll always be here for the lonely and tempest-tossed, wg.
-
Fork lowers removed. No tiny bolt holes were stripped in the process... [emoji106]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/9b64af56d3d2fc3b5b7ad7ed5754d935.jpg)
-
Replacement crush washers for the fork drain bolt and the bolt that attaches the fork lower to the fork damper assembly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/63a5c94a9e2931d0d67b64584bf98857.jpg)
-
Rancho RS1952 fork gaiters installed. Headlight mounts removed so I can drill and tap for the front turn signals. I originally bought the amber lights to be used as the front signals. When they arrived I realized they are single filament so they won't function as running lights. So, I purchased the black lensed signals that are dual filament. I'll be fitting the amber lenses on the dual filament signals. K&S do market an amber lens dual-filament signal, I just didn't know that before I began all of this. :dunno
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/c909f63aacd9a4372aad28e1ab17a3c6.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180403/788a986b6698b7d9834bac83971cf2c1.jpg)
-
Headlight ears drilled and tapped for signals. Personally I prefer amber lenses but I think I’m decidedly old school in that regard. I like their higher visibility factor.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/f222a30cf4da4b75ad3c6fcc8ca701e2.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/e2c2c8c217c6423b096f56c0e76f4df8.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/3c8f6ac303b89ec56fd8d3411b862115.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/1a44d43cdabe09fdd9016ba2c53c44e9.jpg)
-
Checked my splines this evening. 42,501 miles. A little gear oil getting past the final drive seal. The spines are a little dry but they look good. Ready for some lube.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/9f2e654252d581acef3d7a1e710a816b.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/9bbeeff74c4161ab1e2dd8743bfc5e96.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/98b4d8a55530fba5a9623352d7d1f08a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/0811052524272bc24a9c551a66407c7a.jpg) (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/33400733b97ac161e0420f4e35826c34.jpg)
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180408/fa6476dcc612cbfc7ce18ee07507d2f4.jpg)
-
Finally got bodywork painted and clear coated.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/8939ff472dd7158d81fcf20dc98818d0.jpg)
-
Gaiters and fork brace. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/0b29557001e84dccdd4122fe4dc4e5af.jpg)
-
Hooked up the battery to check idiot lights and switchgear. It’s closer to coming to life!
[emoji48]
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180420/e66e68ad47e67bd5b6b6d6177f404f0e.jpg)