MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: Mean Green Z28 on January 07, 2018, 09:14:29 PM
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Long story short, neihbor passed away early last year and I got first dibs at his bike a few weeks ago when they started inventorying and getting ready to liquidate his estate. Yes, I got a good deal :2thumbup:
It sat for at least 10 years, but he kept the registration current...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118204926.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118205207-8581045.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118205207-858489.jpeg)
We couldn't find a key, so I had the local BMW dealer pull the code and get me a folding key. I'll use that to get more/spares cut.
Ordered fuel and oil filters while I was waiting for the title/key etc.
Made small "L" brackets to allow the battery from my Kawasaki to be put into temporary duty to check the general condition of the electronics. Everything seems to work, but I didn't hear the fuel pump prime when I turned her on. ugh.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118205234-8721670.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118205233-8712196.jpeg)
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-070118205231-8691963.jpeg)
Fuel gauge doesn't seem to work, may have to pull it out and clean it up and see what's up. It's very rusty/crusty looking. Does the gauge need time to settle when I lifted the float? is it dampened? didn't seem to move even turning off/on with the float lifted. Maybe a long dip in vinegar/acetone?
I'm hoping the injectors aren't clogged/gummed up. Is there an easier way to check injectors/plugs/valve lash/etc. without popping the left fearing off? I guess I know the asnwer to that.
Will be doing an oil and filter change soon. It's so damn cold in the garage, the heater needs about an hour to make it barely bareable.
Any other stuff you guys think I should be checking before trying to fire her up?
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not allowing me to edit my post above, so....
this is to add description to the pics above[/]
Pulled the gas cap off and was greeted by a tiny bit of stale gas and the need for a new fuel pump (seized) and all the mounting/isolation brackets. [/size]Ordered the complete assembly off of euromotoelectrics.com so I guess I have an extra fuel filter for the future.
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The old few turns to a gum like varnish so yes you will have to clean it insolvent or mineral spirits just you and gum it most in series take apart as much as you can without ruining vital parts check parts breakdown schematic diagram either in micro fish or on the computer. The same goes for the carburetors after cleaning if there's more than one you will have to have them synced if you don't already know how air filter clean and oiled properly , while doing the carburetor clean make sure when you pull the screws out you run each one in; and count the turns, That way the engine runs at proper air to fuel ratio or mixture.
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Any other stuff you guys think I should be checking before trying to fire her up?
Learn about the fuel sender (fuel gauge) from these posts (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender#109294). For everything else, check the Repair Guidance section's Master List. The tank should be thoroughly cleaned as you have already been advised. You seem to know what you should do before you try to start it; you might as well do it all. :giggles Replacing all the high pressure submersible hoses and the high pressure hoses to and from the injectors? You probably should. Much of the rubber components might be deteriorated. You'll find out.
You won't be able to synch the throttle bodies until you get the engine running reasonably. There are instructions on the site for that procedure.
A clean air filter is important so open the air box, remove the filter and see what you've got. You might have mice nests. Shine a light down the muffler. You might have mice nests. Move 'em out, cruel as that might seem in winter. Good luck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLH7IcFeGKo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLH7IcFeGKo)
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+1 on Laitch's advice above. I doubt that your air filter is in need of replacement with under 10,000 miles on the bike. Since they are pretty expensive, and usually good for over 50,000 miles I would check it but put my money into fuel lines and a fuel filter(NAPA Gold 3240 is the number, I think). You don't need the stupid expensive BMW filter, almost any metal shell filter with 5/16" inlet/outlets will work. NAPA gold is their premium line for fleet operators.
I don't think you need to pull the fuel level sender, just drain the old fuel out and do a vinegar soak. The sender has some fragile wires and I wouldn't want to take a chance on handling it.
Judging from the inside of the tank, I would plan on doing a soak with Techron in the fuel injectors before I got serious about using the bike. Same with the fuel pump. Once the fuel system is cleaned up and all the parts functioning you can move on to balancing throttle bodies.
While the tank is soaking is a good time to tackle the rest of the fluids: forks, trans, final drive, forks, cooling and brakes.
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thanks for the advice, keep it coming!
I did order the entire fuel pump/filter/mount/etc. in-tank assembly from euromotolectrics due to the condition of what came out. pump didn't prime, nor did it wanna turn when bench tested; only made a humm.
Will pick up a gallon of vinegar on the way home and dump it in the tank and let it sit.
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What a lovely find congratulations. :2thumbup:
Vinegar works wonders on my fuel system and tank dilemmas.
All: On the topic of high pressure hoses, my tank outlet (87' K75S) started to leak and split when I removed it...seems to be a molded part. with a significant curve... Whats the right material (at less than OEM $29US)?
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Well I was pulling the tank off and the hoses were brittle and started cracking on mine too. I think any fuel injection hose in that size would be good from an auto part store. Main thing to make sure is to route the new hoses in a way that it doesn't kink when the tank is mounted. Def. need to go by the auto parts store and get hose and some clamps etc. along with the engine/gear oil and and oil filter cup style tool .. my universal jaw style filter wrench won't work cos it's inside the oil sump!
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Make sure the hose in the tank is rated for injection submersible. And try and get the proper hose clamps not the worm drive type.
Regards Martin
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started the oil changes... Sorry, pics are sideways coming out of my phone with no way to turn them once uploaded.
Engine oil came out nice and clean...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-100118124024-874773.jpeg)
rear drive oil came out nice and clean...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-100118124024-874676.jpeg)
Even found the original tool kit/etc. under the seat...
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/5497-100118124027-8761286.jpeg)
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Wow, even the toolkit is complete. What a great find.
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Well she runs!!! But I noticed that the foam like strips on the sides of the fuel tank sump seem to be deteriorating and are becoming tar-like. So pulled everything back apart and draining the tank and gonna scrape this stuff out. Ugh. It's so cold out.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180117/99f73e9512e4832b63c3f45893b6dc63.jpg)
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pics are sideways coming out of my phone with no way to turn them once uploaded
There are phone apps for that. Use one and quit posting peculiar images. :yes
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There are phone apps for that. Use one and quit posting peculiar images. :yes
He needs another post or so to edit ...
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Well the Forum doesn't give me an option to edit and I don't want to keep posting the same thing over and over just because I had to rotate it. The picture was rotated in my phone but somehow that didn't transfer to The Forum
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The picture was rotated in my phone but somehow that didn't transfer to The Forum
There are apps for that. If you don't want to search for one that handles the problem so be it. Many other members seem to be doing ok from phones. Maybe they'll help you figure it out.
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There are apps for that. If you don't want to search for one that handles the problem so be it. Many other members seem to be doing ok from phones. Maybe they'll help you figure it out.
The app is not the issue. I don't wanna add clutter to a thread.
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I don't wanna add clutter to a thread.
I'm nominating you for the Good Housekeeping seal of approval. :2thumbup:
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I'm nominating you for the Good Housekeeping seal of approval. :2thumbup:
Ha
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Wow, even the toolkit is complete. What a great find.
Even found the original tire patch kit; I doubt it's still good, lol ... also have full service history as it's only had 3 oil changes in its like and the service records are with the ownsers manual
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Bricks like to be ridden so the lack of miles might actually cause a few more problems initially but once you have her running and riding well she will get better and better as you rack up the miles.
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I've still got my OEM first aid kit, tools and the tyre kit.
Regards Martin.
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Finally Rode her around the neighborhood! Cleaned out the tank again and flushed the rear brakes (didn't have any pedal before). Need to check the plugs later and flush the front brakes.
Radio seems to only display 5664 and doesn't respond to anything else. just static and randomly catches a radio station and loses it. Any ideas?
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You will have to enter the security code if you have disconnected the power. You might find it written in the handbook.
Regards Martin.
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You will have to enter the security code if you have disconnected the power. You might find it written in the handbook.
Regards Martin.
So the screen doesn't show the numbers while you're entering the code?
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I've only had a none OEM radio on my bike and it was a waste of space. Did you get the radio manual with your Brick it will tell you how to enter the code. or try the following posts. http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5484.msg34214.html#msg34214 or http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10178.msg86685.html#msg86685 or http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10182.msg86734.html#msg86734
If you don't have the code it maybe possible to get it from BMW or Clarion. I gave up on my radio cassette got sick of losing stations in the hills. I now have a portable AM/FM SW MP3 player capable of holding up to 2000 songs of my choice. Only problem is the battery life which is 2 hours, however it can be charged from a USB port or a portable battery bank. Available from Jay car for $30.00 Au.https://www.jaycar.com.au/am-fm-sw-rechargeable-radio-with-mp3/p/AR1721 [ Invalid Attachment ]
Regards Martin.
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Well I figured out the radio issue. I had to turn the key enough to lock the steering so it turns off switched power...doh! Then held the BAND button and turned it back on, a few seconds go by and it clears the code on the radio. Turns out the 5664 was what whoever typed in before and was wrong, so it just displayed whatever was entered until the radio was reset. I locked the compartment until I can get the code from BMW as I don't want idle hands from locking up the radio permanently.
Rode the bike around the neighborhood again with all the bodywork and seat etc. mounted back up. Still getting a bit of knock on acceleration so will dump some fuel system conditioner and better octane fuel in there.
Now to replace the tires and get her inspected so I can get tags. Or I may just get Historic tags (over 20yrs. old) and not worry about the inspection haha
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Well she's officially on the road! Haven't really taken any long rides as it's been cold .. and I'd like to replace the old tires. Just got some Honda Moly lube in the mail, gonna do the splines.
In the meantime, I've retired the old KZ1000 and pulled the cylinders off for new seals/gaskets.
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Is that a small BMW mechanic stored in the top box?
Regards Martin.
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The return of the rumble seat!
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Lovely pics, way to get em started when they are young and impressionable...
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Wow, sweet deal and super nice bike, Good luck with it! :clap:
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Is that a small BMW mechanic stored in the top box?
Regards Martin.
Yeah, it's a "Mini-Me"-canic :yes
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Congrads on the bike, what a great find! Very nice pics, looks like fun times for all.
As for that KZ...those are some fun bikes as well, hope that rebuild goes well for you.
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Thanks guys.
BMW dealer called last night with the code for the Radio! It works! But quality sucks. Prob the old speakers, or just the radio itself. But pretty decent at low-med volume.
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Just got new tires installed. Metzeler Z8 in 120/70-18 and 150/70-17 ... slightly wider but very slightly shorter too, may help me put my feet in the ground better when coupled with the Corbin low seat I got from a K100.
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Time to get groceries! A brick wall made a good photo op ... another brick near a wall?
All cleaned up and polished, but not detailed yet. Also the tragkorbs weren't ready to be put on. I may have to end op getting it all re-painted at some point cos almost every panel has blemishes and scratches as if it was owned by a family of crabs ... and then there's the fall on the left that's really scratched up the tragkorb, side mirror and cracked the upper fairing too. Maybe that's why I never got ridden, the previous owners sucked at it!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180401/93ca40476da0f3f78abe7dd60f728bf3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180401/833d194da09d1694bd026e206a3a125b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180401/32bdc889861d839f5c3e0129b7293d7e.jpg)
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greetings...
shiny...
is this your daughter...
j o
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greetings...
shiny...
is this your daughter...
j o
I'd then be married to my own daughter! [emoji38]
Lots of elbow grease ... swirl and haze remover, fine polish, wax, and then a sealer to all painted areas. Black restore on all the plastics and rubber treatment on the tires
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The bike cleaned up real nice! Love the color. Can you be more specific on the black restorer that you used, it seemed to work like a charm.
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Adam's VRT on anything Vinyl/Rubber
Adam's Under Carriage Spray for the black mechanical and hard to reach bits
Meguiar's Ultimate Black on all plastics. Be careful with this one, it WILL leave streaks on polished/painted surfaces that would need serious work to get off if it dries. I usually protect the painted surfaces with painter's tape or take parts off, restore, and install when dry; what I did with the luggage rack parts.
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Wow, that did clean up nice! What's that color called?
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What's that color called?
Mean Green.
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Wow, that did clean up nice! What's that color called?
It does look brighter in the pics. Actual color is 683 Pine green Metallic
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Mean Green.
Ha!
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Removed the front left fork and took it down to Bob's to get the seal replaced. It was literally pouring oil out haha. The right was fine. While there, I got a set of gaiters to protect the forks/seals and a rebuild kit for the rear master cylinder as it's developed a leak too. It was completely empty when I got her so it's been an issue while sitting for 10+ years.
There was some corrosion in the end of the bore, that I was able to get off using some fine steel wool ... made it into a cylinder like shape and stuffed it in and gently polished the inside of the bore by only moving it around gently (no aggressive scrubbing), then cleaned it really well and sprayed it out with brake cleaner, then installed the new internals. Hope it all holds up and doesn't leak again.
Put the new gaiter on the left fork while installing it, then pulled the right to install.
Question!!! How do you make sure you've set up the cross brace and axle to keep the forks absolutely parallel so they don't bind up during compression? I left it all loose, rolled the bike and hit the front brake a few times to make sure the suspension compressed and rebounded well and then put it back on center stand and tightened the axle and brace as it sat. Hope that'll work?
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Sounds like you have pretty much done what this video suggests which seemed to work for me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNEmOqY02EU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNEmOqY02EU)
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greetings..
new upper and lower fork bushings keep the innards properly aligned and will keep fork seals from going whack before their time...
once the innards are 100%... do what delboy is doing... then quit your freaking and commence motobricking...
j o
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Hope that'll work?
Hope. :hehehe If the tubes were equal height in the triple tree and you could push the axle into position by hand without pounding it in, it worked.
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Took her out this weekend with a friend. Turned over 10k miles..sniff* my baby is growing up(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180423/bd48eda28a375eda563580f517df54e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180423/6313e4d91054b9ec975c46d39ba83c10.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180423/a097dd28b7b37c594ba8182845de35e8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180423/56fa2648ec1f07796590279c85d6b7cb.jpg)
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