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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Custom Motobricks => Topic started by: Bee Em Dubbs on December 05, 2017, 03:14:42 PM
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First off, I have no experience whatsoever with working on bikes so what I want to do is very limited. I'm wanting to convert a k75 into a somewhat cafe racer esque bike. I do not need to do a bunch of mods, just basic for now. Would like to remove all the fairing, install a new seat, and new headlight. How difficult is all of this? I have no idea how the seat part will work and if I need a seat pan built. Also not sure how the tail light would be installed.
As for the headlight, I also have no idea how difficult it would be. I'd be fine with the original headlight for now but it seems like that's not possible if I remove the front fairing?
I see a 1994 k75s ABS with 65k miles on Craigslist for $2600. I'm wondering what a good deal would be. It looks to be in great shape, had been regularly dealer serviced, and is registered in "non-op" at the DMV because the collector has multiple bikes and doesn't ride this one often. The seller will also include a set of factory luggage.
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Here's the bike:
(https://images.craigslist.org/00S0S_d7chLzsi8Fn_600x450.jpg)
Here's the inspiration:
This is actually a k100. I would want a little longer seat for a passenger and handle bars not so low.
(http://www.pipeburn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/25_09_2017_Ironwood_Customs_BME_K100_cafe_racer_05.jpg)
This one is similar.
(https://i.pinimg.com/736x/39/cb/c0/39cbc0b970e553ba84e3cf6c0a9f5a7f--bmw-caferacer-bmw-scrambler.jpg)
(https://pinterest.com/pin/693272936361602121/?source_app=android)
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Welcome to the asylum. It looks like a very clean K75s which in my opinion are the pick of the litter in K's. There are lot of bricks around with damaged body work that make better choices for conversion. It seems a shame to strip it, you might want to ride it as is for a while you might like it. However your choice.
Regards Martin.
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Welcome! I agree with Martin that you may be better with an RT model. The $2600 asking price includes something for the limited edition color which is the first thing you will get rid of when you modify the bike.
If I was doing your conversion, I would be looking for a K75RT or a K100LT. These bikes are not very popular anymore, and their prices reflect that. The engines last almost forever if maintained properly so anything up to 60,000 miles will give many years of riding. Especially if being used as cafe bikes, as these conversions aren't known for being used to cover long distances.
As far as the details of the conversion, there are many here who have built these bikes who may chime in on this thread. There is also a section of the forum solely dedicated to documenting the various cafe projects of the members.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/board,38.0.html
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Here's an example of a minimally modified K100. I'd recommend you find a naked K75 to start with and do it in stages. That's what I did (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8956.0.html). Good luck!
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What's the difference with starting with a k75rt or k100lt or even a makes bike? I'm just assuming if I get picky about what I start with them it'll take a while to find one that's in good condition that's close by. I don't want to drive really far and it doesn't seem like these pop up left and right on Craigslist. If I can get this k75s as a good deal, is there anything wrong with starting with it? I might keep the yellow tank. And the fact this has ABS is a selling point for me.
Any opinions are helpful as I'm a noob here.
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What's the difference with starting with a k75rt or k100lt or even a makes bike? I'm just assuming if I get picky about what I start with them it'll take a while to find one that's in good condition that's close by. I don't want to drive really far and it doesn't seem like these pop up left and right on Craigslist. If I can get this k75s as a good deal, is there anything wrong with starting with it? I might keep the yellow tank. And the fact this has ABS is a selling point for me.
Any opinions are helpful as I'm a noob here.
For me, it just helped to minimize the work involved. I see your point in making the search more difficult if you were to narrow it down to a specific model. Have fun!
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Would like to remove all the fairing, install a new seat, and new headlight. How difficult is all of this?
. . . is there anything wrong with starting with it?
If you can do research, follow instructions and have patience, you should be able to complete your project. Countless threads here and elsewhere show various ways of doing those jobs. The bikes you have shown as examples do not have their original speedometer and tachometer instrument clusters. They have aftermarket instruments. If you choose to replace yours, you will be learning some basics of wiring and incur some additional expense for adapting the new instruments to the bike.
As has been indicated already, you should look through the Custom bikes section here to get a feeling of what can be involved and some of the obstacles to overcome.
If you buy that S, you should have no difficulty finding buyers here for some, or all, of its fairing and whatever else you might not want.
Before you start the bike and run it, you should know the bike's mileage and how often it has been ridden. If it has been well and recently run, there should be no problem. If that bike has been in storage with fuel in its tank, you won't be doing it any favors by trying to start and run it because decomposed material in the tank might infiltrate the rest of the fuel system. If it has been in storage for a few months or more, you won't really know how "clean" that K really is until you remove the fuel tank's filler cap assembly, all its fuel, then shine a light into its tank and have a look around in there.
It looks pretty good right now though. :giggles
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Thanks for the reply Laitch (and others). Here is what the owner said so it basically reaffirms what you said. Sounds like he has a huge collection of bikes.
"I occasionally start the engines and let the bikes warm up to keep things from getting gummed up. Batteries tend to go flat and gas loses it's volatility over time and both require replacement or refreshing as necessary. I try to keep the collection in operational condition but I don't always keep to a tight schedule. The K75S will need a new battery (which I will install before sale) and fresh gas. Other than a thin coating of dust, the K75S is as seen in the picture. I also have a set of the factory luggage that I'll include with the BMW."
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Thanks for the reply Laitch (and others). Here is what the owner said so it basically reaffirms what you said. Sounds like he has a huge collection of bikes.
"I occasionally start the engines and let the bikes warm up to keep things from getting gummed up. Batteries tend to go flat and gas loses it's volatility over time and both require replacement or refreshing as necessary. I try to keep the collection in operational condition but I don't always keep to a tight schedule. The K75S will need a new battery (which I will install before sale) and fresh gas. Other than a thin coating of dust, the K75S is as seen in the picture. I also have a set of the factory luggage that I'll include with the BMW."
Personally I would keep the fairing too. If you fitted drop bars rearsets and a custom seat it would make a very cool cafe style bike
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fU1s7j0pZWQ/Vfn6EyuK1aI/AAAAAAAAmZA/fyfy9ZZ_DyM/s1600/_N4B7106%2Bcopia.jpg
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Welcome ! :)
Would like to remove all the fairing, install a new seat, and new headlight. How difficult is all of this?
This is actually pretty simple and easy. I was wondering the same thing for my cafe project, as I did not have any power tools. And installing a new seat is not that difficult. Basically and aftermarket cafe racer seat will have mounting holes. They will just not match the holes on the frame of the bike. So I just use a plank of wood in between the 2, with holes for the seat to mount on, on one side, and on the other side, bolts to mount the whole thing on the frame. Super simple :)
Removing the fairings is as simple as removing bolts, and installing a new headlight is also super easy if you order those round headlight with fork brackets where you just have to clip the brackets on the fork.
Here is my project if you want to have a look : http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10572.0.html (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10572.0.html)
I also made a full timelapse video of my Cafe racer transformation, you can see how I mounted the seat : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oIFhkVYLLI&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oIFhkVYLLI&feature=youtu.be)
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That's a very fair price. I have the same model and color. go get it before someone else does, and have fun with your project.
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Looks good tahitianrider.
I'm hoping to check out the bike this Saturday. Most likely I'd ride it for a while without doing much to it. I think the first order of operation would be a new seat. I'll have to find something I like and figure out how the tail light will work. I'm hoping the bike is in great condition and we can reach a deal.
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Hello again. I've been watching videos about seats... I tried searching on this site for custom seats but I wasn't coming up with much.
Do people generally fabricate their own seats or are there some trusted vendors that sell seats?
I like the look of this:
(https://www.pinterest.com/pin/693272936361596529/?source_app=android)
(http://www.bespokemotorcycles.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/DO-8.jpg)
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But this looks more comfy and looks like a perfect fit for the BMW:
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/sh0.08/e35/24175264_1951724755081602_5889011298007515136_n.jpg)
And this one fits nice as well:
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/51/ee/26/51ee26c4a929e44449014b3d38550d3d.jpg)
There is no way I could fabricate my own seat so I'm trying to figure out how the unskilled go about doing it. Also, in looking for a long enough seat for a passenger. Will I need to modify the seat bar at all?
(https://www.instagram.com/p/BcDaRVyFwAi/)
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What you have there is a brand new Triumph t120 with a non standard seat, forks and oversized knobbly tyres. Have you considered looking for a bike that's already had the work done. In all honesty customising a K bike doesn't make it any more valuable and there are plenty of custom jobs for sale where somebody else has already spent the money and done the hard work. Otherwise there are companies like cafe4racer.eu who sell a seat made for the K bikes. For me it's about taking a bike which has been neglected and making it into something loved and hopefully cool. During my project I have taken on so many things I haven't done before, for example I have made my own seat. Iits as much about learning new skills as building a bike. I really can see why some of the people on here appear negative about people chopping up good examples because they love the bikes as they are and they appreciate the value of a good model.
http://cafe4racer.eu/en/upholstery-motorcycle-seats-cafe-racer-scrambler-custom/619-bmw-scrambler-seat.html
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I know that's a triumph but I just used it as a reference for the seat. I was actually looking at the Bonneville as my next purchase but fell in love with the k. I would consider a bike that had a lot of work done but sometimes people overdo it and the bikes look dumb. I like a lot of aspects on the k bike already so I'm not looking to swap out every part. There is one on Craigslist near me, the only one I can find, and I would never ride it. Allso, no ABS which I wanted.
Also, I've never looked at any vehicles as an investment. So I'm not worried about getting back what I put in. I'd just like a reliable bike that I can learn a thing or two on.
There is a shop near me that rents out their workshop spaces. The owners give advice and can help out build and weld for $40 a half hour. That might be good for things I don't know how to do myself.
Ffjf
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saw this on fleabay. cheap enough , maybe it could be modified for your project.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Black-Hump-Vintage-Cafe-Racer-Seat-For-BMW-R60-R75-R100RS-100R-GT250/391862123014?hash=item5b3ccd7a06:g:GsIAAOSwulBZjnNJ&vxp=mtr
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saw this on fleabay. cheap enough , maybe it could be modified for your project.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Black-Hump-Vintage-Cafe-Racer-Seat-For-BMW-R60-R75-R100RS-100R-GT250/391862123014?hash=item5b3ccd7a06:g:GsIAAOSwulBZjnNJ&vxp=mtr
I think you'll find that's Freabay :hehehe
At $37 dollars including postage I wouldn't expect quality. Chinese Child labour :nono
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I saw what looks like decent seats here:
http://www.texavina.com/k75-k100-k1100-late-80s-early-90s/
Also the eBay seller daytrader-07 has similar seats which it looks like texavina supplies. Texavina has their seats outsourced in Vietnam and that is also where the eBay seller is.
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The Triumph design works because the line of the seat flows smoothly into the line of the tank. The subsequent K-bike pic example you posted looks bad because the seat hasn't kept the line of the tank. The bottom edge of the tank flows upwards, as does the line of the seat, and they meet in a "V".
I helped a guy build his cafe interpretation. He pinstriped the tank and seat pan to emphasize the line and worked hard to make those visually parallel. He raised the seat pan a few cm in the rear and filled in the space with welded plates. Also, you can visually draw a curve along the top of the tank and smoothly intersect the curved tail. The result is pleasing.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/270-081217223754.jpeg)
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About that tank seat line; a year or so ago, I saw a German cafe conversion where it looked like the tank had been lifted at the front end so the line of the rear bottom of the tank was horizontal. Looked like a different bike.
I've also seen builders use two tone paint schemes with pin stripes to camoflage the tank angle.
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Looked at there bike today and it all checks out besides the gas tank. Some rust or something on the bottom of the left side. How big of a deal is this and can it be easily fixed or would I need to buy a new tank?
(http://imgur.com/yJUrTbt)
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https://i.imgur.com/yJUrTbth.jpg
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That's a typical long term damage area on these bikes, which will lead to fuel leaks unless addressed. It's a difficult problem to fix reliably using DIY techniques. Either a new tank or professional repair with aluminum welding.
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How big of a deal is this and can it be easily fixed or would I need to buy a new tank?
rbm has summed up the situation and the main approaches for remedy. The tank is leaking fuel from one or more pinholes, that's for sure.
Some owners have written that they've successfully repaired such tanks by correctly applying one of several compounds made for coating fuel tanks. That is a process having several steps that must be carefully performed but usually no special tools are required. I can't say if you'd consider such a process easy. Here is one product. (https://www.dimecitycycles.com/red-kote-fuel-tank-sealer-liner.html)
The seller makes it seem easy but a leaking tank on a K-bike probably contains some decomposed rubber and other debris that needs to be washed out. Vinegar solutions have been used for that purpose. The fuel pump and fuel sender would be removed and the fuel sender's opening would be plugged before application of the sealer. It isn't as easy as buying a fuel tank that doesn't leak, depending on the effort it took to earn the money that is being spent, of course.
:giggles
There are many threads here about cleaning and repairing tanks that are compromised.
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The bike didn't start and we suspect it's the battery. I would buy the Odyssey battery that everyone suggests but since I don't want to be stuck with it if the battery isn't the problem, I'd like to try a cheap battery. I've read through numerous threads on batteries but people are asking for the smallest batteries and other things and wondering if they will work.
Can anyone suggest a cheapish but not crappy battery that can fit the 1994 k75s ABS bike and get it running?
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Take a set of jumper leads and jump start it off your car. Check you cars manual for the correct procedure for jump starting, as some of the newer vehicles have a specific procedure that must be adhered to.
Regards Martin.
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Have you checked Walmart? While I've not bought a battery for any of my bikes there, I have bought batteries for autos, boats and lawn tractors. I have been quite happy with their batteries. Get an AGM battery if possible. It doesn't require that you add water, and if you happen to drop your bike it won't leak acid all over the place.
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The owner tried charging the battery but it wouldn't hold a charge.
And I haven't checked Walmart or anywhere yet because I'm not sure exactly what to look for. I don't know how big or small it needs to be, or how much power. I was hoping someone could just suggest a $50 battery I could easily find locally.
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It seems to me that if the seller really wants to sell the bike it should be in running condition, and that includes having a battery capable of starting the engine. Unless he is willing to subtract the cost of the battery from the selling price I would tell him to call you when the bike has a battery that can spin the starter.
The difference between a good battery and a crap battery isn't that much, until you figure how much per year the cheap battery is going to cost you when you have to replace it after just two years.
Regarding specs, you need at least 20 amp hours(AH) and 255 cold cranking amps(CCA).
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I got a Duracell from the Battery Plus store. It's one of the cheaper one out there for K-Bikes.
[/size]Model: DURDC12-20NB[/color]
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Thanks guys, both helpful answers.
And the guy is old, and already said he could sell the bike for $2200 instead of $2600. So I figured I could save him some trouble and get a battery.
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And the guy is old, and already said he could sell the bike for $2200 instead of $2600. So I figured I could save him some trouble and get a battery.
It seems unwise to spend money on a bike you don't own. I'm old, too. Send me via PayPal the $70 or so a new battery will cost and I'll give you three months worth of sound emotional and spiritual guidance. With either option, you probably won't have a bike you can ride any time soon. :giggles
Beyond that, unless you have a well-supplied tool box and an understanding of how internal combustion engines and their electrical systems work, you are setting yourself up for a difficult time. Bikes that leak from those seams tend to be bikes that have not been ridden very much or else stored for long terms with fuel aging in their tanks. Either condition can create problems that involve both the fuel and the electrical components of the bike.
Rescuing bikes is not like rescuing dogs either. The main difference is that bikes won't suffer without rescue but their new owners will suffer rescuing them. :giggles
I do believe that miracles can happen. :2thumbup:
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Not to throw water on your enthusiasm, but in my opinion, a '94 with 65K miles and not running is not a deal even at $2200.
With that corrosion damage you are looking at a tank repair that will require repainting the tank. Even if you do all the work yourself, the materials for a good job will set you back at least $150. The badges alone will cost you over $60.
Then add about $100 for a battery. Install it, and find out the bike has sat long enough to require the injectors to be cleaned. Another $75-100. Have you looked in the tank? If there is corrosion causing a leak, the bike has sat long enough to turn the fuel pump mounting rubber to black goo. If you have to replace the rubber, look at nearly another $100. Then there is also a good chance the fuel pump is toast. OEM is well over $200, and aftermarket pumps can be $75 and up.
How old are the tires? If the bike has sat for a number of years the tires can be over four years old and dangerous to ride on. A set of Shinko Tourmasters, which are the cheapest good quality tires you can find for that bike, will cost you about another $200. For "name brand" tires you can easily go for over $300.
Do the master cylinders leak? A bike that has sat can have corroded cylinder bores in the brake master cylinders(and possibly the calipers) that can cost a lot to repair. Just buying a rear master cylinder rebuild kit can set you back nearly $100. These bikes do not like to be idle for long periods. Long storage might be okay if there are service records showing maintenance during the storage period on time dependent items like brake fluid flushes. Unfortunately, I have never seen a bike stored for a long time that had service of any kind done during the storage period.
Find a jump box to get the engine to turn over, and possibly start. Ask the owner to let you remove the filler and look in the tank with a flashlight. You want to see a nice clean aluminum interior. If it starts and idles and can be revved, the interior of the tank is clean, and the brakes levers have a firm feel, the $2200 price might be fair if everything else is okay.
There are bikes out there in the $2200 price range that are being used daily and don't have the potential issues I have listed above so they can be started up and rode home. A high mileage daily rider is often a better deal than a low mileage bike that has been in the garage for a long time. This is especially true if you are not an experienced wrench and might need to hire out some of the required jobs.
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I know of a perfectly running K75 in Southern California that can be had for two-thirds of that price. (contact me off list if you want to know more) I wouldn't pay more than $1000 for a non-runner. If the owner wants more, they can get it running and show you how good it is.
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I would strongly recommend that you take the advice offered here and look for another bike. I bought a garage queen (non-running for 12+ years), but am relatively mechanically skilled and wanted THIS EXACT model of bike. Now I own a restored vintage motorcycle for the mere price of two normal K's :bmwsmile . I am not overly bothered though because my first bike was a toaster R60/5. I apparently have a weakness for unique bikes. Based upon you original post you would be better served by an operating machine. Good luck.
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That yellow non-op K75s has been on and off San Diego Craigslist for about 2 years.
I agree that a running bike would make a better cafe conversion.
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Thanks everyone for the sound advice, I'm no longer interested in the yellow brick and have had two members reach out offering to sell me their bikes which I will look into.
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Enjoy the hunt. It's a good way to learn about these bikes. Good luck!
Everytime I am looking for a K bike, it seems that they are all in southern California.
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Enjoy the hunt. It's a good way to learn about these bikes. Good luck!
Everytime I am looking for a K bike, it seems that they are all in southern California.
Ah Southern California, the land of the Rust Free..
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Ah Southern California, the land of the Rust Free..
Except for the salty sea air condensation along the coast (for bikes that spend some nights outside). Here in So Cal, we think of Arizona vehicles as being the rust-free examples.
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Rust free up here is the Prairies. There's no salt on the roads in winter because the salt water freezes, brrr. :yow
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Found this thread on a sleepless night. Kudos to my asylum- mates for the well measured, care filled feedback. K lovers come in many forms.
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