MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => Project Classic Motobricks => Topic started by: The Mighty Gryphon on December 04, 2017, 01:35:45 PM
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In the month following the accident, I've been stripping the bike and shopping for replacement parts. I've been really lucky in that nearly all the stuff I need is on the net for very good prices. So far, I have been able to get nearly everything I need for a complete restoration and I'm about $100 under budget fror the parts I have bought. I need to give a big thank you to all the guys stripping bricks to make cafe bikes.
The bike must have rolled a couple times before coming to rest and destroyed every piece of plastic except for the front mudguard. The swing arm, rear end of the frame, shock, seat and tank were destroyed.
I gotten some pretty good deals so far, like $50 shipped for a good fuel tank and $450 shipped for a complete K1100RS fairing with mirrors, headlight, all mounting parts, turn signals and belly pan. Got an R11RT rear wheel for $70 shipped and a set of city cases in almost new condition for $90 shipped.
I've been able to do a little work now that I can move around again, and have cleaned and painted the new rear wheel, swing arm, and final drive. Next in line is the crankcase and valve covers as well as the brake calipers. Hope to get to them later this week.
Checking the electrical system, the starter, instrument cluster, brake switches, and fuel pump all work properly. Can't test the turns signals right now, but I am pretty sure that when I replace the signals they'll work.
The "new" frame is in the mail and should be here later this week
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That was one big hit Gryph, how did The Honourable Senator for Finance and Recreation take it? Also how are you going to fit four Bricks in the garage, does this mean buying a car cover? Good to see you are picking up parts at a good price, hope the rebuild goes well.
Regards Martin.
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Martin, when it's finished, the plan is to ride it a bit to shake out any rough spots, and then put it up for sale. Not planning on making much on it, mainly it's something to keep me occupied over the interminable winter, and to keep a nice bike alive.
Went out to the garage this afternoon and found that the FedEx guy had been there. Looks pretty good, very little rust, not even around the rear loop under the tail cowl where there usually is a lot. One little problem though, the seller did not include the title. Hope they didn't lose it. email sent and am waiting for a reply.
Meanwhile, today I pulled the valve cover and spark plugs. Bike had been laying on the left side for almost three weeks and would not turn over because of oil getting into cylinder four and causing a hydraulic lock. With the plugs out I was able to turn the engine over and blow the oil out. Spins nicely now.
A clean up and a paint job on the valve cover and it's ready to go. Next is the crank case cover. Probably won't get to it until Wednesday.
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Don't you just love it when a plan comes together. I presume you will be painting it white? :popcorm
Regards Martin.
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The past couple weeks I've been searching for the last of the parts I need, Tank, bars, heated grips. I've decided to keep the Moby Brick. Had some issues with the seller of the replacement and the deal fell through.
Got a set of heated grips real cheap because the right one didn't work. Pulled the grip off and immediately saw the burned out wire. 15 minutes with a soldering iron and it's good as new.
Frame was pretty dirty, but showed hardly any rust. Took it to the car wash with degreaser, and once it was cleaned it shows hardly any paint damage or rust. Not quite new, but close enough for me. Still, I'm going to do a little touch up here and there with POR 15.
Got a tank almost for free when I figured the shipping. Got it cheap because it had a dent that looked like someone whacked it with an axe. Lucky for me, the dent wasn't in the spot where the double wall was. I was able to tap out most of it with a rod and a hammer through the hole for the level sensor. A bit of DuraGlass and it will pass even close inspection.
Was going to do the bike white again, but seeing the Special Ed paint job, going with it is a no brainer. I'll have the only RS with an 1100RS fairing and the Special Ed paint job.
The rest of the fairing parts are 600 grit wet sanded and ready for primer and glaze. Parts won't need much. They are in really good shape. I probably would have used them as I got them if they were any color but black. I hate the way black bikes always look dirty. It's bad enough I'll have all that dark blue in the paint job.
Transmission gear switch got messed up in the crash. I pulled it off, cleaned up the insides and reinstalled it with stainless allen screws after wrapping it with self amalgamating rubber tape to keep the water out. The allen screws are a nice touch if you have ever tried to get the hex head screws out. There isn't enough clearance to get a socket on the head. It's an ugly place down there, so the stainless will be nice.
Handlebars were a ittle rusty so I stripped them with a wire wheel. Going to do them with POR 15 along with the frame and the centerstand. I need to rework them for the grip wiring.
Man! All this stuff takes up a lot of room. I can hardly move in my shop. It will be great when I get the frame done and I can start putting all this stuff together.
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Forgive my ignorance, but there are some acronyms/phrasing that I'm not familiar with and cannot infer meaning based on context: POR 15, Special Ed Paint Job, DuraGlass?
Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!
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Forgive my ignorance, but there are some acronyms/phrasing that I'm not familiar with and cannot infer meaning based on context: POR 15, Special Ed Paint Job, DuraGlass?
Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out!
POR15 is a very tough rust converter/paint. DuraGlass is fiberglass-impregnated body filler. I think the Special Ed paint job is another forum member's custom paint. Not sure there.
Good luck Gryph, and thanks for the parts!
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In the late 80's the K100RS came with a special edition blue and white paint job. My new tank came off of one of those bikes. They were designated as K100RS SE for special edition.
I kinda like the abbreviation Special Ed as much as I like the paint scheme.
POR 15(Paint Over Rust) was recommended to me by a friend who restores old British cars so I thought I'd try it on the frame and handlebars. It's supposed to be super tough so I am hoping it won't chip on the centerstand.
I used a lot of DuroGlass when I worked in a boatyard. It's better than Bondo because it's a lot stronger, and more waterproof.
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Have got a little bit more done in the past week or so inspite of the holidays.
The frame and handlebars have two coats of Paint Over Rust and a satin black top coat. While the paint was drying, I prepped a few more parts of the fairing. The "new" fairing's air deflector and windshield had broken tabs that needed to be repaired. Cyanoacrylate glue worked well on the windshield tab and it was reinforced with a small screw on the deflector.
I've also been cleaning and otherwise prepping and restoring every part that will be used. I have a spray bottle of POR 15 Cleaner/Degreaser that is amazing at stripping the dirt and grease off of everything you spray it on. I use it to prep the fairing parts for wet sanding with 600 grit and cleaning everything that isn't going to get painted. It's super easy to use, just a quick spray, and wipe with a sponge followed by a good rinse. If the grease was really thick is might take a second shot. I work in the laundry tubs since it's too cold to go outside. I can do six or seven parts completely in about ten minutes. Nothing goes on the bike if it isn't cleaned first.
Got the frame off the engine a few days ago. Since then, the weather has gotten brutally cold and the garage was in the 10F temperature range which is too cold for even my heaters. Instead of working outside, I set up shop in the family room to get the harness cleaned up by removing the ABS wiring a rewrapping the wire bundles with new friction tape.
I also took all the switches and sub cables down to the laundry for a good clean. After an overnight dry I cleaned all the connectors and accessible switch contacts with DeoxIt. With the frame on the family room coffee table I started installing the main harness and and assembling a few things like the seat lock and the lower part of the tail cowl. I also went through the fasteners for a lot of parts and replaced them with stainless from my stainless stash.
With the frame ready to put on the engine I cleaned up the rear mudguard, and the radiator. With only 14,000 miles since I last cleaned out the fins I was amazed at how much dirt came out of them.
Took the forks off the old frame and cleaned up the top bearing. In the super cold garage the grease had hardened to the point where the forks could hardly be turned. I had to use a heat gun to warm the grease enough to be able to clean it out. Considering how everything else on the bike got bent and twisted in the crash I am really surprised and glad that the forks and triple clamps survived unscathed. Tomorrow I'll have to bring them in to get the grease out of the lower bearing, then they'll be ready to reinstall once the frame is put on the engine.
Next thing is to clean up the engine a little and removing the crank cover so I can paint it. With the cold in the garage I'm not sure when that will happen.
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Looking good Gryph. :popcorm
Regards Martin.
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Looks great :clap:
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I've enjoyed following this. I started browsing around here about the time the wreck happened. At that time I was looking at a K100RS that needed reassembled from the only worse fate (cafe conversion attempt). I passed/missed out on my deal but when you started saving Moby, I got to watch a similar job being done. It is easier watching, but it may make me try to save another one yet.
I'm just glad you're saving a motorcycle.
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Considering how everything else on the bike got bent and twisted in the crash I am really surprised and glad that the forks and triple clamps survived unscathed.
You were smart, getting rear-ended instead of running into something yourself. I'll try to remember that.
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. . . I'll try to remember that.
Another example of Motobrick.com discussions stimulating lifelong learning in its membership. :2thumbup:
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Have a little more done now, despite the deep freeze in the garage. Swapped the rear tire from the old wheel onto the new wheel. Before installing the tire I checked the wheels balance without a tire. Found the heavy spot was about 6" away from the valve stem which is the traditional heavy spot. Wheel was a hair over 1 ounce heavy there.
Installed the tire and found that the wheel was still heavy at the same spot by the a bit over 1 1/2 ounces. Looks like the wheel is more out of balance than the tire!?
Got the crankshaft cover off and out of the cold. It looks like a good portion of the sliding the bike did was on the cover. Lots of scratches and a couple deep gouges, but otherwise solid and not leaking any oil.
Spent the afternoon cleaning, and sanding the cover. Then a skim coat of filler sanded with 220 to fill in the scratches and gouges. A shot of high build primer and wet sand with 600 followed by three coats of black base coat and four coats of satin clear coat. The black took a while because of all the masking for the raw aluminum stripes and the logo.
The results were worth the effort, except for the realization that at least 3/4 of the cover is hidden by the fairing.
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That looks really good, I keep thinking about doing mine then have the same thought you did - it is nearly totally hidden by the fairing. Still it nags away at me so I am sure I will give up and do it one day... I will know it looks great under there at least!
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Outta control Gryph :bmwsmile an SE with 1100 fairing!...I am jealous already, and then the city cases for 90. Where do you find these things????
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I am jealous already, and then the city cases for 90. Where do you find these things????
I was wondering the same thing! Been really wanting a set, just not at the $500+ I had seen (once)
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I spend around 10 minutes in the morning with my coffee checking new listings on eBay. Good deals come up, but they disappear quickly when guys like me jump on them.
I have to admit I've been blessed getting the parts for Moby Brick. To find a complete fairing with good mirrors, turn signals and all the mounting brackets along with the airflow deflector is a once in a lifetime thing, especially at the price I got it for.
About the city cases. I did a part search at Max BMW and found that they were used on several other models. One of the models was the F650GS, so I started searching BMW F650 saddle bags and tragkorbs. The first time I searched I found them. Apparantly the guys who ride those bikes are into aluminum tragkorbs so when they upgrade their bike they just want to get rid of the plastic cases that came with it. Apparantly the guy who sold me mine didn't realize how cherished they are by other BMW riders.
The tank was a good buy because it had a 3/4" deep dent just above where your knee is, right on the curve of the tank. Most guys don't want dented tanks, so the prices run pretty low. I got really lucky in that the dent was not in a double walled part of the tank, and was accessible through the hole for the fuel sender. I was able to get the dent 90% pushed out in an hour or so of working on it which was pretty easy to finish with a little bit of filler.
Nearly everything I get on eBay has a problem. By being willing and able to make repairs means I can take a chance on really cheap parts. I've been burned a couple times like the instrument cluster that was totally destroyed inside by water, but normally I can make the part work.
I've been buying stuff on eBay for years, and have learned a few tricks like misspelling the name of a manufacturer or item. A wife or mother selling off a divorced husband's or adult kid's stuff can be a source of fantastic deals. To find them though you have to have a feel for what a clueless person is going to call things or misspell names. I'm a drummer and in the past used to buy and sell Ziljun simbols(actually Zildjian cymbals). Anyone who can't spell the name usually doesn't know what they're selling is worth.
The deals are out there, you just have to be persistant and become knowledgeable on the different models that use a part you're interested in. BMW is good in that so many of their parts are used for long periods of time on a lot of different models.
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With outside daily high temperatures stuck around 0F to +5F the garage is hard to work in more than an hour or two at a time. Nonetheless, I have been able to get a little more done out there.
I pulled the lower airbox off and cleaned out 25 years of oily sludge as well as cleaning the road dirt off the top of the block under the airbox. It was a really good time to remove the engine temperature sender and check it out. Got it cleaned up, Deoxed the terminals and reinstalled the riser with stainless screws. It was good to see how squeaky clean the internal cooling passages were after how caked up they were with mineral deposits when I got the bike.
With the frame off, it was a good time to service the non-functional "choke" switch. It hadn't been working for all of last year. It certainly wasn't critical, but since I will ride for an hour before I notice I left the choke on, the light is a good reminder. Shot some DeoxIt in it and worked it a bit until the switch functioned again. Worked some silicone grease into the plunger then reinstalled it on the throttle bodies and confirmed proper operation. Joy...
Another task I got to was to check the breather hose plumbing on the throttle bodies where it's hidden by the air box. Because I have a good spare the plumbing is in great shape and will probably last forever. I did have a loose hose clamp on one of the connections that I was able to correct with a new clamp.
I cleaned up the boots for the clutch and the transmission output shaft. As usual, it took me about an hour to get the boot attached to the swingarm. The connector for the sidestand switch broke off the cable. Found a "new" one on eBay and it should be here in a day or two.
Next was to install the swing arm and final drive. The drive shaft survived the assault and got cleaned well of the grit and dirt that got scooped up into the broken swing arm as the bike was skidding along the side of the road. Lubed the splines and confirmed that the u-joints worked smoothly through their full range. No slop or stickiness. More joy...
I assembled the swing arm and final drive after cleaning and lubing the bearings. With the swing arm in place, I can now see where I can install a grease fitting in the clutch arm shaft. With the temperatures in the garage running in the mid teens, laying on the floor to drill for the fitting will have to wait until Monday when the temperature is forecast to actually be above freezing for the afternoon.
With the rear wheel installed I tried to spin it in neutral to be sure that all was well in the drive train. Holy Mackeral! With the transmission and final drive lubes at 15F degrees that wheel was a bear to turn.
Looks like the drive train is ready to have the frame installed, but I'll wait until the weather gets a little bit warmer. In the meantime, I think I'll amuse myself with a little more prep work on the fairing and handlebars.
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Gryph it's better if you remove the clutch arm to drill and tap it, as you can then deburr the hole on the inside. Plus you are not drilling into the shaft.
Regards Martin.
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Martin, I've thought about that, but taking everything apart is a royal PIA. The clips are corroded and almost impossible to get at. I'm inclined to let sleeping dogs lie on that part of the job. Fortunately, right now the arm moves easily on the shaft.
Drilling the aluminum casting isn't such a big deal and the minor burr that is left at the break-thru point won't be a problem when the cavity is full of grease. No danger with damaging the shaft, it's easy to feel when the bit breaks through into the cavity for the shaft.
I'm using drive-in fittings that don't require threading the hole, just tap them into the properly sized hole(I have a dedicated drill bit for them). Makes installing them a 10 minute job.
The nice thing about doing it in place is that if you can get the drill in there, getting the grease gun on the fitting will be easy too.
This is how I have done the other two bikes, and have had no problems with them.
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:2thumbup: Ahh another advantage of living in paradise no snow= no salt = no corrosion= no pain. :clap:
Regards Martin.
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Just spent an hour writing up a blow by blow of the installation of the frame and checking the alternator brushes, but because one of the photo files was too big the whole thing has been trashed.
Here's all i'm posting: I put the frame on the engine and hooked up the wiring and radiator.
The alternator brushes were worn out. Ordered new and they will be here in a few days. No problem to install them while the alternator is in place as long as I haven't installed the battery.
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That's happened enough times to me that, if I'm composing a large posting, I always copy-paste the text into Notepad before hitting the enter button. That way, I can recall my work if something goes wrong. If all OK, I just discard the Notepad.
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Yeah, Rob, I usually do a copy of the text before I pull the trigger, but this time it slipped my mind. `
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Forks and speedo installed along with the new voltage regulator. Waiting on some stainless fasteners before I go any further on the bike itself.
Amusing myself this evening by doing a little cleanup and paintwork on miscellaneous parts for the seat and the bar end weights. I just managed to get a set of bar end weights that turned out to be a Throttlemeister cruise control. :2thumbup:
I wanted to clean up the discoloration on the header pipes. They were pretty bad with lots of dark brown spots and a deep yellow/light brown color to the stainless.
Looking on the interweb there were lots of references to metal polishes and lots of hard rubbing. Not exactly what I wanted to hear. I took the exhaust down to the laundry where I do my cleaning and saw the bottle of Naval Jelly that I use to clean the rust off of parts. Thought I'd give it a try.
Brushed some on one of the pipes and left it for about a half hour. When I came back I decided to wet sand with some 2500 wet or dry. Wow, a couple minutes and the nasty brown stain was gone. Did it on the pipes right up to the head and the results were very nice, especially considering it didn't require any really hard scrubbing. In the photos, I left one of the pipes uncleaned to show what they looked like before.
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Yesterday the UPS guy left a large box in the snow in front of the garage. It was the "new" exhaust to replace the one that got a little "tweaked" in the moto-altercation.
Spent a bit of time this morning shining it up a bit. Doesn't look too bad. When the garage gets a bit warmer, it will go on, along with the rear mudguard and rear shock which are also ready to go.
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That $30 chunk of rubber that keeps the stands from rattling against the muffler had one of the tits that are used to attach it broken off. No way I'm buying a new one.
Clamped the rubber bit in the vise and drilled a 1/8" hole for a M4 flat head screw. with a bit of vaseline on the screw I pushed it through and used a M4 nut to hold the rubber in place. By cranking down on the nut I was able to suck the head of the screw into the rubber so it won't contact the stand. The rubber is more secure now than before.
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good job. nice and neat.
as an aside I just ran a quick depravity logarithm over your last post.
tits, clamped, rubber, drilled, hole, vaseline, nut, screw, cranking, head
congratulations Gryph it says you are 95% Australian.
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G'day mate if you want me to source any Vegemite or Tim Tam's give me a Cooee.
See Ya's later.
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Having had the pleasure of knowing a few Ozzies over the years, I'm honored, but must draw the line at the Vegemite, at least for the time being. I also know for a fact that my ability to metabolize alcohol is somewhat lacking. I stand in awe of the ability of southern hemispherians to consume adult beverages.
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as an aside I just ran a quick depravity logarithm over your last post.
tits, clamped, rubber, drilled, hole, vaseline, nut, screw, cranking, head
congratulations Gryph it says you are 95% Australian.
. . . I'm honored . . .
I just processed this through a Kiwi interpretation app, Gryph. It indicates that you're being insulted. :giggles
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Strewth Laitch get fair dinkum. Gryph if you don't down a tinnie or two of the amber fluid you'll end up as dry as a dead dingoes donger.
See yuz ooroo.
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With the garage at a balmy 25F I decided to spend some more quality time with the Moby Brick.
New YSS shock installed with new stainless hardware. Rear mudguard and luggage racks installed. And the exhaust system. I hope I never need to do that again. Lining up all those cylinder head studs while getting the rest of the attachment points aligned was not a fun job.
Replaced the side stand safety switch that had broken wires and put a new bushing in the side stand pivot. Works nicer with less play, looking forward to seeing how far the bike leans on it.
It's time to celebrate closing in on the end of the mechanical work with a couple carbonated malt beverages.
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Gryph you need to slow down otherwise you'll have nothing to do for the rest of winter. :nono And I do hate Vegemite, it looks like axle grease and the grease probably tastes better. Don't tell any other Ozinians otherwise they might throw me out.
Regards Martin.
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Martin maybe you should try the real thing - good old Marmite from Blighty. I love the stuff, after 20 years in Costa Rica that and HP sauce are pretty much the only ex-pat things I still cling to!
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It seems the folks who sell Marmite are aware of how people feel about it...
I suppose it's an aquired taste thing, and you need to be exposed at a very tender age.
https://youtu.be/tjSER4WWaOs
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I suppose it's an aquired taste thing, and you need to be exposed at a very tender age.
Like tempeh and Ovaltine.
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Thanks I'll stick to two of OZ's best creations Tim Tams and Lamingtons, with the occasional Ozified éclair. :lets-eat: As stated you can stick your Vegemite Marmite and that other abhorrent creation Nutella. We Ozinians do tend to get carried away with the old Vegemite, they once had Vegemite flavoured ice-cream and while I was baching I came across Vegemite cheese and meat pies. :yow
Regards Martin.
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Nutella is great; not in the same class as Vegemite and Marmite. Everyone has different tastes. Do you do the Tim Tam Slam Martin??
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Do you do the Tim Tam Slam Martin??
Have you ever been given the Tim Tam Finger, Robert. :giggles
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Rob the answer is yes, but to go one better try Tim Tams dipped in port. A mate and I went on a two day 4WD camping trip, I brought along 3 packets of Tim Tams. The first day at morning smoko he pulls another 4 packets out of his bag. :clap: :hehehe We did not get through them all. :dunno2:
Regards Martin.
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I've had a couple productive days in the garage despite the frigid temperatures.
Got the front wheel rebalanced and installed. Got the "new" front fairing mount installed and found it was tweaked a tiny bit when I eyeballed it. Did a little straightening on it but not sure if it's right yet.
Handlebars are mounted and the wiring has been connected and tested. So far, everything works after making a few minor adjustments to things like the rear brake and "choke" switches and cleaning the turn signal cancel switch. Only things left on the frame wiring are to connect the wire for the fan override and the oil level check light on the side of the oil pan. The sub-freezing temperatures in the garage made handling the wiring harness and those big covers over the combination switch connectors a pain in the ass. Had to do a lot of heating with a hair dryer on high to get everything stuffed into where it needs to be. Sure was nice not to have the ABS wiring to contend with!
The front wheel was out of balance but adding a quarter oz. weight got it right.
Everything has been going well so far with the exception of the handlebars I got on eBay. First off, they were not set up for heated grips. I drilled them out and modified the ends to accept the heating elements, but there was some sort of obstruction that prevented feeding the wire on the throttle side. After spending over four hours trying, I gave up and decided I didn't need heated grips on this bike that badly.
Then when I put them on the bike I discovered that they were not really K100RS bars as they were quite a bit wider than the correct bars. They also have a slightly different bend that doesn't line up correctly with the dash pad. Not a big deal I thought, I'll just shorten them, but the bend doesn't allow the perches to be slid down the bar all the way to the ends of the pad. Looks like I will have to live with a 3/8" gap between the perches and the pad. I have the left end done, will have to do the throttle end this weekend.
Next up is to put the tank on and see if I can start the engine. I'll also have to tear down the Paralever to see what and why the drive shaft is rubbing the inside of the swingarm when the shock is at the full length of it's travel. The forecast is for balmy 40F temperatures for the next 4-5 days. I just hope it isn't too damp to cause a lot of condensation. It sucks having to work when everything you touch is wet.
Not much left to do on the frame/engine if it starts up. I should be done in the garage on this bike in about a week. Then it will be finishing up the paint prep on the bodywork and waiting until spring to shoot the paint. Then I can move on to the annual maintenance on Cheetos and Ilsa. Cheetos also needs a little body work from when a driver knocked it over last October. I will also be building a paint booth.
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:2thumbup:Looking good Gyph it looks like it is coming together really well with not too many headaches. Looking forward to seeing the end result.
Regards Martin.
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Looking good! Keep the updates coming, you will have Moby back on the road in no time at this rate. How on earth will you find the time to ride all your bikes!
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Hit the first functional snag this afternoon when I attempted to start the engine. I went to use the old tank, but found that the infamous four pin connector on the tank pigtail had been sheared off when the tank left the rest of the bike. I found an old connector and wired it onto the old pigtail and installed the tank.
Tried to start, nothing...
Tested connector continuity, and it was good. Tested fuel gauge and idiot light functions at the harness connector by jumping pins and got good functioning: idiot light when white wire is grounded, and full tank when yellow is grounded.
When I try to test the sender I only get results when the green/white wire of the tank pigtail is connected to the brown of the harness connector. I am suspecting that the tank pigtail's brown wire is broken because I see an open circuit between the brown wire and the tank which I think should be grounded or across the brown and the Green/white which I think should show something as the pump motor is across them.
Does anyone know where I can fing a schematic of the internal tank wiring? None of the manuals I have show it, and searching so far has turned up nothing. Otherwise, I will have to disassemble the tank and then put it back together just to run a quick engine test. Would rather not if I can avoid it.
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Its hard to find a good schematic of the fuel sender but luckily the fuel sender is pretty straight forward.
- Brown is ground and is attached through the gas tight connector to the main plate
- There is a solder lug on the main plate. The negative lead from the fuel pump goes directly to the solder lug on the main plate.The wiper on the float arm is electrically grounded through the main plate through its pivot.
- White is connected between an etched copper pad on a PCB and a lug on the gas tight connector
- Yellow is connected between one side of the rheostat and a lug on the gas tight connector
- Green/White goes directly to the fuel pump positive lead through a lug on the gas tight connector
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0oKVF-aloUbSMkJhvaMNJMqXJ5lav9XPdWyjGXEF0VYBHDfG8eGnIdQ1IWnMbpOxux_V7YcS3_AxvAjC7DWJA2wIQ3QMqKBwHkEuuZhpD3CL8CY9hQtitomGf19sLLc9uEtOvsLKwjT-SOxwkmL33YbsEVX1OYuherdEx--OS8swTs72FNA8zyYZZUyHqA8NkrU78UyaSef4ZxbfAh0JmOGH7Teag32C1wjEReQZ86tWOxFDdvsqhltSqt9Cr0bky2u4wC7nfChhqSy3Ou1DSUueYb_Y9FZqmpUsOcCNlLHHLYucDww_PX4ivHZr4rtNbKLV-wOhPebVmVFYhUEU1d4c6cZ45v6uT9ba9sEjTNUdzG4VaqgKgGC3Es8b4eCCdVq6sx0UNhOutWPbrBMX6pGqL-ci7_10r15BVUwBB6NWLacI9iL0zL-y_CPeT8SHZecMGU45eLyvCO1zBWWTf64cNr5GJ_0NYgjM-RVsUP0hxKUqY8tfrE-brmsr-Q4ViPk8UCyDbHjJEgpE5xuQ_VnVKdz-3JKxO3TGT8P2c5bTG1QlEA3LJFLGDEiruU0bkYq47-1jtiG--S9R520MIaf7VPI06FfOcwgVSiIc3g=w788-h1398-no)
If you see open circuit between the brown and tank, the break is likely inside the gas tight connector.
Verification test:
1. Use an alligator clip lead to extend the negative terminal of the pump to outside the tank to be safe against explosions.
2. Test continuity between the extension lead and plate. If you have continuity, the negative lead to the pump is intact. If you have open circuit, likely the negative to the pump is broken off.
3. Test continuity between the extension lead and Brown wire. If you have continuity, the gas tight connector is intact. If you have open circuit, likely the gas tight connector is toast.
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Rob, thanks so much for the detailed description.
My troubleshooting yesterday led me to believe that the problem might be in the brown wire or it's connection in the tank. What you have posted has confirmed this. I was hoping I could get the engine running before I took the tank and sender apart so I wouldn't have to reassemble a tank I wasn't going to use.
I'm thinking now that I can make a temporary ground lead with a ring terminal and attach it to the ground on the fuel pump bringing it up through the filler for the test.
I haven't been able to flip the tank over to look at it, but is that fuel-tight pass-through repairable if indeed I need to replace the brown wire.
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No, the fuel tight passthrough connector is not repairable.
Try to save the sender if possible. What you might try is to remove the sender from the tank and see if you can spot weld a small solder lug onto the bottom of the plate, without compromising the integrity of the plate (i.e. blow through the plate with the weld). That would then be used as a ground connection point to connect up a new Brown wire.
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Went out to the garage for a bit this evening and drained the tank so I could flip it over to inspect the connections a bit more closely. I was able to confirm that the connection between the brown wire and the grounding of the tank had failed. I was also able to confirm that the grounding inside the tank itself was still intact.
My solution was to solder a short piece of wire to the tank plug brown wire and connect it to one of the screws that fastens the level sensor plate to the tank with a crimp-on ring terminal.
This now has my fuel level light and gauge working properly(properly that is, if the idiot light circuit has a 10-15 second time delay in it which I suspect it does), but there is still a problem with the fuel pump, possibly two. When the ignition is turned on, there is 12 volts at the connector for the tank all the time. Being a Motronic system, I would expect it to only be present for a second or two to prime the rail and then shut off until the engine is turning with the starter.
The second problem is that the pump does not run. I am sure the pump wiring is good since I am able to confirm continuity through the pump between the +12v and ground terminals on the tank pigtail.
I guess the first order of business now is to remove the pump and do a bench test to see if it was damaged somehow when the tank was bouncing merrily down the road. Then I need to see if the fuel pump relay has been damaged as well. Maybe tomorrow, maybe later this week. Feeling a little nervous as this may indicate not only a pump, but a Motronic problem as well.
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It's alive!!!
Repaired the tank pigtail and moved all the internals from the old tank to the new. Set the choke, cycled the ignition switch a few times to prime the injectors and hit the starter. About one second of cranking later the engine coughed a few times and settled into fast idle at 1200rpm.
You know how bricks like to smoke when you park them for a while on the side stand? Imagine what it's like to have the bike laying on it's left side for three weeks. It took about two minutes of running to get the smoke out of the exhaust and over an hour to clear the garage because for the first time in a couple of weeks it has been dead calm.
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Congratulations on achieving that milestone Gryph! Well done. Quite the cloud of blue smoke there. One might think you've been vaping in the garage.
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Down to the short strokes now. Shorten the right end of the handlebars, connect the fan override and oil window lights, find out what is rubbing in the swing arm, and install some pretty stainless fasteners in the forks and triple clamps. From there I just need to finish prepping the bodywork for paint. Then there's nothing until the weather warms up enough to shoot the paint in the garage, probably May.
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:clap:Gryph good to see. At least now your garage will be fumigated and critter fee.
Regards Martin.
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Back on February 4th I picked up another(!) K100RS in pearl silver with 0nly 31,000 miles to ultimately be the new Moby Brick. Paint is in very good condition, so I will be swapping body parts to the old Moby Brick to ready it to be sold.
For the last couple days, I have been removing body parts from the new bike, cleaning, detailing and installing them on the old bike. So far, I have installed the tail cowl, tank and the front mudguard. I've also been working on the K1100RS fairing parts that are going onto the new bike. While the new bike has good paint, there was some serious peeling on the battery covers that needed to be repaired.
I took one of the covers to the auto paint shop where I get my paint supplies, and we sanded the cover I brought to reveal the base and mid coat paint films so they could match them. With the paint matched, I brought the cover home and did the prep work to getting the prime on. In a few days, I hope to have my let down card done and the weather will be warm enough to get the covers and a bad spot on the tank done.
With the covers prepped, I went out and worked on the old bike a bit more. Since fork boots are an acquired taste thing I figured that if I was going to sell the bike I should probably remove them. I also swapped out the switch pad which I had modified with aftermarket switches so the old bike would look more stock.
With all the other maintenance items covered, I set the idle position on the throttle position sensor by grounding pin #3 on the diagnostic plug and setting the sensor so the
temperature light goes out when the throttle is just opened from idle. Before doing the adjustment, I took the opportunity to clean the choke light switch so it worked properly again. Then I started the engine and after it warmed up I balanced the throttle bodies.
I have accumulated the tools for the tool kit, with the crap strap that holds the kit together falling apart, I have ordered some 1/2" webbing to replace it. I should have it tomorrow, and will get some rivets to put the new strap on the roll.
With the engine purring now, and most of the body parts ready to swap it is just down to a couple of details and the main fairing to have the Mighty Moby Brick ready for the road again.
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:2thumbup: Looking very good Gryph, looks a good as if not better than new. :clap:
Regards Martin.
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Right now it actually looks better than the new one.
Once the old one is finished and up on Craig's List I'll be throwing a bunch of love at the new one. It needs a really good cleaning and a complete fluid change. Then some little personal touches like manual fan switch, headlight relays, driving lights, oil sight glass light, and stainless fasteners. Then, there is the new special ed paint job that has to go on the body parts.
Not sure I'll get it all done for the summer riding season. My sailboat is 50 years old this year and needs a lot of work to bring up to how I want it. That's going to consume nearly all of my April and May. Fortunately, most of the fairing for the new bike is primed and ready for paint, but I still have to build my paint booth and wait for warmer weather before I can shoot. It's going to be a busy Spring.
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Two warm days here and I was able to do the paint work on the battery covers and tank.
Spent the afternoon installing the fairing yesterday and found out I had the turn signal wires for the front signals backwards! Took another hour or so to get the wires crossed back to where they should be. I can't believe how many times I thought about checking them and didn't.
Anyway, he's pretty much ready for the road. All I need to do now is get the blocks out from under the engine and install the engine fairing. I am pretty sure I am going to miss this bike. Wish I could talk the wife into parking her car out in the driveway...
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:2thumbup: :clap: Absolutely brilliant job, looks better than new. Maybe it's time to put a mezzanine in, or a cellar. :dunno It'll be cheaper than a divorce. The Honourable Ministers transportation has to be parked in the garage every night. I had to miss Dump Day Friday stuffed left shoulder and she won't let me take the car to the dump. It's sort of like demolition derby, I've had my mirrors clipped three times. I now park the brick were the tin tops can't get at it. :falldown:
Regards Martin.
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Motorbike Garage (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RN90DVW/ref=twister_B00RN90DFI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Nuff said... :eek: :2thumbup: :riding:
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Moby Brick seeks thee not. It is thou, thou, that madly seekest him!
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Moby Brick seeks thee not. It is thou, thou, that madly seekest him!
Laitch, truly a man of letters.
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Looking beautiful Gryph! Great rebuild.
Thanks for posting pics of your rebuild. I had no idea how easy taking the frame off the drivetrain was while working on a K. I'm definitely going to do that before I start rebuilding mine. It will make assembling the intake much easier. It was tricky getting the airbox and throttle body off the engine with it all in one piece. I was wondering how it was going to go getting everything back in there preassembled. :2thumbup:
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Then when I put them on the bike I discovered that they were not really K100RS bars as they were quite a bit wider than the correct bars. They also have a slightly different bend that doesn't line up correctly with the dash pad. Not a big deal I thought, I'll just shorten them, but the bend doesn't allow the perches to be slid down the bar all the way to the ends of the pad. Looks like I will have to live with a 3/8" gap between the perches and the pad. I have the left end done, will have to do the throttle end this weekend.
Do you need some RS bars? I believe they're from a K1100RS. I bought these and I'm not going to use them. Not sure if they will work for you but here they are:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2NMAAOSw7p5aaX-Q/s-l1600.jpg)
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Crap! If I had seen those a month ago it would have saved me at least two days of screwing around. Got the ones I had working pretty well but without heated grips.
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Moby Brick seeks thee not. It is thou, thou, that madly seekest him!
Every time I hear of Moby Brick I'm expecting Cap'n A-hub will be following ...
Great job BTW (you should have asked me for that NOS tank).
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It had crossed my mind, Ed, but I didn't think my rebuild was a good use for a NOS tank. Also, when I saw the one I will be using on Moby Brick Too I jumped on it because it had the Special Ed paint scheme that I could color match and get the correct striping layout from.
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Nice read, great job on the rebuild. Very well done.
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Thanks, Tim. Was just looking at your bike. It's gonna be a sweet ride. Good luck and enjoy the time you spend getting it running again.