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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Gurujimmy on November 22, 2017, 04:38:41 PM
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Ok, some of you have may have seen my first post "First Start in eleven years" the good news is, she is up and running, bad news is I seem to have some water in my oil. I have a small amount of white froth in the oil filler cap and the oil though the sight glass looks milky.
Reading bits and pieces off the google, the water/oil pump seemed a good place to start being that the bike has been sitting for around eleven years that seems reasonable.
So I ordered new seals and installed the in the pump, everything in the pump looks clean. So my main question is with new seals installed and the bolt center bolt tension to 33nm, I find that I can not turn the rotor/gear by hand only with a socket which takes a fair bit of effort, does this sound right?
any suggestions
K75S
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I find that I can not turn the rotor/gear by hand only with a socket which takes a fair bit of effort, does this sound right?
It doesn't sound right.
What year is your bike? It's helpful to put that in your profile, too, because different years might have different parts. Is the impeller cast or stamped?
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sorry should of said it's a K75s 1988.
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Is the impeller cast or stamped? When new style ceramic seals are installed, a stamped impeller should be installed with them.
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Is the impeller cast or stamped? When new style ceramic seals are installed, a stamped impeller should be installed with them.
And the bushing is a different size.
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Is the impeller cast or stamped? When new style ceramic seals are installed, a stamped impeller should be installed with them.
The impeller is of the cast verity.
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Just ordered a stamped impeller and spacer.
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The impeller is of the cast verity.
That might be one of your problems if you bought updated seals. With the ceramic seals, a stamped impeller and spacer bushing is required. The seal needs to be pressed into position rather than driven in. Installing new pump seals is a job many of us have failed the first time.
If your new seal looked like this one, you'll need to get another seal too. Was the gear's shaft corroded?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1601-221117200605.png)
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Read the links within this post. (http://www.k100-forum.com/t4749-oil-water-pump-seals-replacement#51074)
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That might be one of your problems if you bought updated seals. With the ceramic seals, a stamped impeller and spacer bushing is required. The seal needs to be pressed into position rather than driven in. Installing new pump seals is a job many of us have failed the first time.
If your new seal looked like this one, you'll need to get another seal too. Was the gear's shaft corroded?
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/1601-221117200605.png)
Yep it looked just like that one. The gear shaft look like new with no pitting.
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Yep It looked just like that one.
I suggest you go to this parts fiche (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51745&rnd=07242017), click on Diagram #11_1803, then review the parts list to be certain you have all parts that are recommended for the rebuild, if you haven't already done that.
A failing pump is usually indicated by fluid dripping to one extent or another from the weep hole on the bottom of the pump case. The milky froth on the site glass could have been created by years of water condensation within the crankcase mixing with new oil. Running the engine might have enabled its dissipation after a couple of oil changes in succession, but I don't get the sense that you had the bike running for very long.
At this point, the instructions in those links should help you complete the pump rebuilding job successfully. Be certain the small z-hose running from the crankcase to the air box is not loose or cracked. Failure of that hose can interfere with reliable starting and smooth running.
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Awesome thank you for the advice Laitch, I will have a good read when I finish work today.
The water in the oil still has me a little worried, I have run about the 8 liters of fuel since the bike has been up and running, mostly for for the purpose of tuning.
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I don't have the links but there are several good youtube videos on the water/oil pump rebuild for K bikes. I had to disassemble and reseal mine when I bought my bike. The videos saved me a lot of headaches I am sure.
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After reading the instructions super closely and failing with two of those fancy seals I gave up and bought a used K1200LT pump on ebay. Still going over 30k+
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Thanks guys for the great advice, I finally managed to compile all the parts required to have a second go at the pump rebuild, and all went very well.
Cheers for the great info once again.