MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Motorhobo on November 15, 2017, 05:43:36 AM
-
Does anyone have one of these?
http://www.jt-c.com/product_info.php?info=p131_quick-coupling-petrol-hose-8mm.html
I think I'm getting a stiffie...
-
I have read of some riders using quick connects, and only the metal ones last.
-
60 Euros!!! :eek:
-
It seems too much money to add more places from where fuel can leak, particularly at high pressure.
-
a lot of the newer bmw's have disconnects standard from factory. several US beemer parts places sell aftermarket versions that are metal. they don't leak.
pretty common.
-
60 Euros!!! :eek:
I think I'll keep using an old rag to catch the dribbles.
-
60 Euros!!! :eek:
Well, I guess you really have to hate removing the tank, which I do, because I never get just a few dribbles, I get a steady dribble that lasts at least 10 minutes before it finally tapers off. Nobody here seemed to have a solution. Plus, the more times you pull that expensive molded hose off the nipple, the more it frays and you can't cut back too much of it before it doesn't reach any more.
a lot of the newer bmw's have disconnects standard from factory. several US beemer parts places sell aftermarket versions that are metal. they don't leak.
pretty common.
Yeah, but it looks like EME wants $38.95 for just one set, and you need one set for each hose. I'm pretty sure the 60 Euros is for the 2-pair kit, at least that's what's shown in the pic, which would make it a decent price -- given that it's a completely superfluous convenience item.
$38.95 is pretty durned steep, IYAM.
-
I just lengthened my hoses about 6". That lets me pull the tank back far enough and lift it high enough to get at the relay box and the cooling system filler. I don't even have to mess with the fairings.
-
Well, that's a solution for sure -- although I'm curious to know how you dealt with replacing that one molded hose -- FI rated hose doesn't seem flexible enough to be bending and turning and zip-tying up the extra slack.
On the other hand, nothing beats the ol' unhook-it-and-put-it-way-over-there method. Not saying I'll be dropping the $80 any time soon though, because although I'm a big fan of convenience, I'm still a cheapskate.
-
Well, I guess you really have to hate removing the tank, which I do, because I never get just a few dribbles, I get a steady dribble that lasts at least 10 minutes before it finally tapers off. Nobody here seemed to have a solution. Plus, the more times you pull that expensive molded hose off the nipple, the more it frays and you can't cut back too much of it before it doesn't reach any more.
Yeah, but it looks like EME wants $38.95 for just one set, and you need one set for each hose. I'm pretty sure the 60 Euros is for the 2-pair kit, at least that's what's shown in the pic, which would make it a decent price -- given that it's a completely superfluous convenience item.
$38.95 is pretty durned steep, IYAM.
i always drain the tank with a cheap fuel pump. only takes a few minutes. then you just pinch the hoses softly with needlenose vice grips. one set on each hose before disconnecting anything. no dribbles.
hmm, $39 x 2 is .....$78
60 euros for 2 is.......$71
then add shipping. price between the two is a wash.
-
None of my hoses are molded. I go to the NAPA store and get their 8mm/5/16" bulk fuel injection rated fuel line. It's really pretty flexible and easy to tuck out of the way when I slide the tank back where it belongs. Six extra inches isn't all that much to get in the way. Been doing it for a couple years now on three bikes and no problems.
-
I just lengthened my hoses about 6". That lets me pull the tank back far enough and lift it high enough to get at the relay box and the cooling system filler.
:2thumbup:
Well, I guess you really have to hate removing the tank, which I do, because I never get just a few dribbles, I get a steady dribble that lasts at least 10 minutes before it finally tapers off.
For quick procedures, I follow Chilton's instructions for depressurizing the system. A couple of drops are all that happens. If the tank is being removed for an extended time, I use a bulb syphon, empty the tank and run the fuel in the truck.
-
(https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N2127/thumb/4557427_lis_22850_pri_thmb.jpg)Lisle Hose Pinchers, part #22850, Advance Auto Parts, $7.99
-
If you start it up then disconnect the 4-pin plug under the right side of the tank to stop the fuel pump until the engine runs out of fuel you should have less pressure in the line and less fuel will leak out when you disconnect the hose to the rail. Removing fuse #6 (fuel pump/Kraftstoffpumpe) should do the same as disconnecting the plug and is easier.
-
I installed a set on both my bikes, they are worth the money though I paid no where near 60 euro.
I bought mine from local speed shop, quality stuff and they work well.
easy to disconnect, no drips or dribbles and make tank removal a snap.
I'm sure they're available on amazon, rockauto, auotpartswarehouse, etc.
I'm away from home right now, else I'd include the make/model.
no regrets, money well spent.
-
I installed a set on both my bikes, they are worth the money though I paid no where near 60 euro.
I'm away from home right now, else I'd include the make/model.
no regrets, money well spent.
Thanks to all for the info about stopping the dribbles -- but I want what kaopano's got.
Kaopano, when you get home could you please post that info here? Thanks...
-
Beemerboneyard has a set at $75.00 for a pair of CPC all metal disconnects with FI rated hose clamps: http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html)
-
The way I do it is to depressurize by disconnecting the fuel pump and running it, then gently pinch the feed line with some needle nose vise grips or hemostats, remove the feed line's lower connection, pinch and remove the upper return line connection, then quickly pop the feed line onto the return barb. Barely any drips, costs nothing. I have some doubled over and ziptied scrap fuel tubing I use to plug the feed barb on the fuel rail too.
-
I mostly do it like Gryph..............I just added some length to the hose's so I can move the tank out of the way when I need to get under it. Works great for no hassle, quick n easy access. But if the tank has to come off all the way, I depressurize the lines,(choose your own options here), Then plug the lines with a cork. Costs you pennies at the hardware store, in a vast array of sizes and tapers! :beer:
-
Thanks to all for the info about stopping the dribbles -- but I want what kaopano's got.
Kaopano, when you get home could you please post that info here? Thanks...
try putting
"fuel line quick disconnect"
into a google search. lots of options.....
-
Golf tees. :2thumbup:
-
try putting
"fuel line quick disconnect"
into a google search. lots of options.....
Hey, thanks mylytle. I didn't know you could do that! Really, what's this Google thing you speak of? That's really super cool, thanks again for the super useful information!
Alternatively, I could ask kaopano for the link to the one he had a good experience with and save me all the mind-numbing googling and sorting through millions of buying options, because that's what user forums are for :-)