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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: DavidATL on November 14, 2017, 06:33:50 PM
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The thin nylon(?) that retains the lock cylinder inside the top case comes loose. I think it's partially stripped.
BMW Motorrad Topcase Lock Barrel Nut M33x1.00mm 9062586 51259062586
Any solutions besides replacing the nut?
Any sources for parts in the US? Looks like some dealers may have it.
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I would go to a car lock shop. There must be something similar to that that you can use.
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The thin nylon(?) that retains the lock cylinder inside the top case comes loose.I think it's partially stripped.
Will it tighten snugly? Have you removed it to look at its threads? That latch system is untrustworthy anyway; it needs secondary security, like a hasp or cinched strap.
If the nut will snug then try applying a thin coat of silicone gasket maker on the face that contacts the box's interior wall. That might keep it from backing out.
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Home Depot :hehehe (I reversed the hinge side, they must have had reject engineers design the topbox)
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. . . they must have had reject engineers design the topbox)
They wanted built-in back padding for the pillion rider and they couldn't get that to work with the hinge cheaply enough. They didn't overbuild the latch because they reckoned some Teutonic backside would be holding the lid in position. It's actually an engineering marvel and a promotion of the security of property through connubiality. :giggles
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Max BMW shows the part you need. Trouble is, they want $19.57 for it. However, you might want to check with their parts guys about the lock housing which looks like it includes the $19.57 nut for $25.19, at least according to the photos on the fiche.
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51743&rnd=07242017 (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51743&rnd=07242017)
Go to page 46 "frame, fairing, cases" and go down to the "top case 22l" t see these parts.
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There also might be a conduit nut or plumbing fixture nut out in the world that would work.
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There also might be a conduit nut or plumbing fixture nut out in the world that would work.
I doubt it. M33x1 is a pretty fine thread. The standard pitch for that diameter is 1.5mm. There has to be another source for that latch. Have the folks in Deutschland found an alternate part?
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I don't think you're going to get it much cheaper than this from a 'reputable source'...
https://www.leebmann24.de/sechskantmutter-m33x1-51259062586.html
Then there's always Krautbay...
https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XSechskantmutter+%09M33X1.TRS0&_nkw=Sechskantmutter+%09M33X1&_sacat=0
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Mine had weak threads(nearly stripped), so I put silicone sealant/adhesive on the treads and it has worked for years now.
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Mine had weak threads(nearly stripped), so I put silicone sealant/adhesive on the treads and it has worked for years now.
:2thumbup:
An additional thin application of sealant could be applied to the face of the nut that makes contact with the box's interior wall. That also would help to inhibit the fastener's backing out, too.
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Thanks for all the replies and especially to The Might Gryphon for pointing me to Max BMW. Excellent online fiche!
I also like TX Brick's idea of using a sealant.
I removed and inspected both the male and female threads. There is no significant damage to either. Working with the lock assembly outside of the case, I confirmed that it is extremely easy to cross-thread. Since the male threads are not full circumference, you don't sense the resistance to turning that would normally accompany a cross threaded situation. There is some but not much.
When installed, the nut will go snug against the case body and hold. Inconsistently, I will find the nut loose after several top closure and latch actions. I am beginning to think that the lid retention hook is pushing the lock body in such a way as to cause the nut to skip one thread on just the top of the lock body creating a cross thread situation after proper assembly. This would be just enough to make it loose.
This top case lid requires about the same force to latch as my 88 k75s did but that was 20+ years ago now so my memory may be failing me. Both required me to press on the lid to complete the latch. Given my theory above, I decided to adjust the latch hook to reduce the force required to latch the top in the hopes that the nut would see less force.
As lid hook appeared to be at the limit of its adjustment, I removed the hook and bent it to drop its position about 3 mm. It now takes a slight press on the lid to get the hook to latch. During this closer inspection, I also found that the hook base plate was hitting the lower case body at the seal lip so I scrapped the lip's plastic down a bit to create clearance.
Twenty open and latch cycles later, the nut is holding firm. Fingers crossed!