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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: parabrick on October 30, 2017, 10:27:17 PM
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Purchased 1997 K 1100 from older fellow who had aged too far the handle the beast. Rode for 2800 mostly commuting/ goof off miles with great joy until I noticed that I had a leak from the final drive seeming to emanate from the brake side of the wheel. Leaks more when on side stand then on center stand. Can this seal be replaced without removing the final drive? ( by removing rear wheel. brake calipers and then the 2 retaining screws that hold the disc to the final drive?) I have been successful in draining all the old fluids and replacing them with new, but this is something that could keep from riding her for a while if I cannot do so (limited expertise) I can get right to the point of the retaining screws but am reluctant to add too much heat to release the loctite for damaging other parts. Sorry to wax on, but this love affair with the brick is unreal. I owned another k bike when i lived in the islands but never could really let her go, so this new experience has me a bit hog tied! Is this something that I should turn over to a an expert( $$$) for repair until better acquainted with the machine? :dunno2: (I have just been constantly checking the fluid and topping up when necessary to keep riding her...) :dunno
Thanks very much in advance fro all the great information thus far, I love this bike!
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While the paralever swingarm is more complicated than the earlier monolever I am inclined to believe that removing the final drive requires less effort than trying to do the seal replacement with the final drive still installed on the bike.
Removing the final drive and doing some minor disassembly can significantly reduce the cost of having an expert do the work you don't feel up to doing. See if you can find an independent BMW mechanic rather than taking it to a dealer. The hourly rate will be lower, and quite possibly the mechanic may actually be more familiar with your job than a dealer's guys.
In any event, if you have a leak in the vicinity of the rear brake it's a good idea to address it before it messes up the brake pads. A real plus is that with the final drive removed, you have access to the splines on the drive shaft to do a spline lube.
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Brilliant thanx very much i will seek the help of an independent to keep the girl rolling!
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I think TMG is absolutely right. The best solution is to remove the FD, the only slightly tricky part being removing the pivot pins and locknut which should be very tight, and then refitting them correctly.
I have replaced the seal a number of times on my bike because the hub was pitted and the new seal leaked. It's not a bad job to do. I think you possibly could replace the seal without removing and dismantling the FD but damage to the new seal and the housing are possible. Much better to take the whole thing off, imho.
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Assuming your drain plug in the final drive is magnetized, take a look at the plug and see if there is any metal particles attached. This can give you a heads up if there is damage past the seal--like the large crown bearing. I personally don't know the longevity of this bearing on the K model bikes but I can attest to the fact they go bad on the R bikes. It's about a $700 repair assuming you carry the final drive in. if you are good with bearing pullers, etc, you can save yourself some labor cost but don't ignore the crown bearing and pinion seal.
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Purchased 1997 K 1100 from older fellow who had aged too far the handle the beast. Rode for 2800 mostly commuting/ goof off miles with great joy until I noticed that I had a leak from the final drive seeming to emanate from the brake side of the wheel. Leaks more when on side stand then on center stand. Can this seal be replaced without removing the final drive? ( by removing rear wheel. brake calipers and then the 2 retaining screws that hold the disc to the final drive?) I have been successful in draining all the old fluids and replacing them with new, but this is something that could keep from riding her for a while if I cannot do so (limited expertise) I can get right to the point of the retaining screws but am reluctant to add too much heat to release the loctite for damaging other parts. Sorry to wax on, but this love affair with the brick is unreal. I owned another k bike when i lived in the islands but never could really let her go, so this new experience has me a bit hog tied! Is this something that I should turn over to a an expert( $$$) for repair until better acquainted with the machine? :dunno2: (I have just been constantly checking the fluid and topping up when necessary to keep riding her...) :dunno
Thanks very much in advance fro all the great information thus far, I love this bike!
Yes you can. I have done it a year a go and no leaks or any trouble.
You will need to remove the rear wheel and nothing more.
I use a Dremel and a screw to pull the seal out. Then put the new seal with the help of a plain wood stick and a hammer. (Little by little)
Good luck!
I have a few pictures in this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/n_russell/shares/49sf82
Kind regards,
Nicolas
Enviado desde mi SM-J710F mediante Tapatalk
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Yes you can. I have done it a year a go and no leaks or any trouble.
You will need to remove the rear wheel and nothing more.
I use a Dremel and a screw to pull the seal out. Then put the new seal with the help of a plain wood stick and a hammer. (Little by little)
Good luck!
I have a few pictures in this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/n_russell/shares/49sf82
Kind regards,
Nicolas
Enviado desde mi SM-J710F mediante Tapatalk
Sorry, also you have to remove the brake caliper and brake disk.
Enviado desde mi SM-J710F mediante Tapatalk
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Thanx very much to all who replied. I have found that putting her up on center stand every time when not riding her she does not leak ( well, drops rather than stream..) Going to tera here down now that Oregon wet weather is in full force. Going to use torch to heat rear disc retaining screws to melt Loctite. Any better ideas out there? thanx again