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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: 67TigerMk11 on October 17, 2017, 03:19:24 PM
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Hi everyone, Haven't posted before but use the forum as a reference. I need help. Removed tank to drain water out, put it back on, started right up. Thought all was good. Went out the next day to ride turned the key and nothing. No power to gauges, headlight, starter. Only the tail light works, nothing else seems to work. Have checked the fuses. What's next? I don't see a sidestand switch, where is it? Why would only the tail light have power? Thanks, Jerry
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Check your kill switch, other than that, "backspin starter maintenance" in the tech stickies, would be a good next step.
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Thanks Scott, Did the roll back starter thing 3-4 times, but not very fast. I'm by myself so it was a slow rollback but I did hear the starter turn some. Took the kill switch apart sprayed contact cleaner then scrubbed with De-Ox. I also sprayed and and De-Ox ed the 4 pin connector under the tank, the ground, and the computer under the seat. I still have just taillight, nothing else. Any other Ideas?
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Clean and Deoxit the ignition switch, clean and check all battery connections, clean and check earths.
Regards Martin.
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Hi Martin, I assumed that because the tail light comes on when I turn the key on that the grounds and ignition switch were ok. Should I not assume that?
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Never assume anything with Brick electrics they can be quirky. Twenty years ago when I bought mine I was told by a ex BMW tech to go over all the electrical connectors clean them with Deoxit . I went a step further and smeared dielectric grease or heavy silicone grease around the connectors. I believe it would keep out water and air which cold lead to corrosion and bad conductivity. Some inmates believe applying grease can cause conductivity problems. Your call on the grease however the only electrical problem I have had was from the one connector that was hard to get to. After it played up twice I did the job properly.
Regards Martin.
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I'd suggest you now start with this flow chart.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,5067.0.html
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The diagram in the flow chart seems to show a ground to frame "#9". I only have one ground leaving battery and that goes to the side of the transmission. Where do I look for the frame ground. Thanks guys.
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On my 16v K100rs there is another ground under the tank on the LHS of the bike
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The major ground connection is on the left side of the backbone tube under the tank. There are about 6 or 7 brown wires connected there. It's probably one of the first places I would look if I have never cleaned it.
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Sorry, pretty stupid here. So, those grounds come from the battery? I only have one, to the transmission.
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Where do I look for the frame ground.
On the frame, like in the picture.
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The picture is deceiving, the bottom of the picture is the front of the bike.....
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The diagram in the flow chart seems to show a ground to frame "#9". I only have one ground leaving battery and that goes to the side of the transmission. Where do I look for the frame ground.
The picture is deceiving, the bottom of the picture is the front of the bike.....
The picture is of a frame and components within it—not of the transmission—so that should act as a clue that there is ground connection on the frame, too. That's no deception. The main tubes are depicted in their linear relationship to each other. That's no deception, either. The problem comes trying to find them and not having x-ray vision—a few components need to be moved out of the way. It appears to me 67TigerMk11 might not understand that ground wires can come from equipment to ground connections; they don't just come from batteries.
I can agree though; it's always helpful to know up from down, front from rear, above from below, especially in social situations and motorcycle riding. :giggles
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Hi again, Well the flow chart wasn't any help. I got to Bad tgip switch, but I don't think thats it, as there is no power anywhere except to tail light. No headlight, no starter, no horn, Nothing. Ideas?
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When my starter played up I lost everything, I tried the backspin and it worked enough for the starter to function. Within a couple of k's I lost the headlight and the indicators started acting funky. Tried back spinning again which gave a temporary cure, again after a few K's it started with the same symptoms. I decided to call it quits took it home, and spent an hour pulling out the starter and cleaning it.
The brush length was fine but the commutator was filthy once cleaned everything returned to normal. At the time the mileage was around 150,000 K's. For piece of mind I think starter maintenance should probably be on you maintenance schedule at least every 100,000 k's if not sooner.
Regards Martin.
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Clean and Deoxit the ignition switch, . . .Hi Martin, I assumed that because the tail light comes on when I turn the key on that the grounds and ignition switch were ok. Should I not assume that?
Never assume anything with Brick electrics they can be quirky. .
The brush length was fine but the commutator was filthy once cleaned everything returned to normal..
Clean the ignition switch either before or after you clean the starter.
Did you ever find the frame ground connection?
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OK, I have taken apart and cleaned the ignition switch, removed and cleaned the ground under the tank. I have tail light and radio power. Nothing else. Thoughts?
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Kill switch maybe? Have you tested for power on the Green and then power on Green/Yellow at the right hand switch cluster connector??
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No, but I will. Thanks. I know there is power to the starter relay, but none on the other terminal, even with starter button depressed. Could this be the issue? Thanks, jerry
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The main ground for your bike would be under the tank no 9 as in the fault finding process. These need to be removed and cleaned. Wire bush, emery or whatever your choice but must be corrosion free before refit.
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
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No, but I will. Thanks. I know there is power to the starter relay, but none on the other terminal, even with starter button depressed. Could this be the issue? Thanks, jerry
The other side of the starter relay connector (Brown/Green) is a ground so I wouldn't expect to measure any potential relative to frame ground. But, the ICU does get power through the kill switch so not turning over with the start switch pushed is possible.