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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Filmcamera on October 12, 2017, 01:08:42 PM
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I was just getting on the freeway five minutes after the start of the return trip home after a meeting when the bike died totally. I was able to coast to a gas station but have zero electricity going to the ignition switch. The battery is fine, the bike started and rode normally on the trip there and on the start of the trip back. I am currently stranded and waiting for a tow truck. I have not had time to do an exhaustive search of the forum so please forgive me if I ask something that has been covered. Is it likely to be the ignition switch? What else can cause a total loss of electricity. All the fuses are ok and the clock is working but nothing else. Even the hazards don't work
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What else can cause a total loss of electricity.
A loose Motronic plug could do that. Get out there and remove and reset the plug firmly, before the tow service personnel finish their mojitos.
Loose battery connections, frame ground connection could do it, too. You might have just enough connection to keep the clock going, or you could be hallucinating.
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If I was hallucinating I would be having more fun! I disconnected and reconnected the motroic a couple of times. No joy. My amazing long suffering wife is on the way with some tools and a multimeter so I will fiddle a bit more while Rome burns - I mean while waiting for the tow truck
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If I wanted to hot wire the bike to get it home does anyone know which wires I should splice together?
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If I wanted to hot wire the bike to get it home does anyone know which wires I should splice together?
Check the ignition switch connector under the front of the tank.
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It is connected ok. If I check between the red and green I get 12.14 v also between red and the blue next to it 12.14 v
O tried jumping them but that generates serious heat. Pretty sure it is the ignition switch. Time to see if I can field strip it...
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I can't so I will try when I get the bike home . But jumping the red and green on the ignition connector did allow me to briefly spin the starter motor.
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No promises, but if it's the ignition switch, you MIGHT be able to get it to work by cycling it a number of times. That is sometimes enough to dislodge whatever crap is blocking the current flow.
The contacts in the Kill switch on the right hand side could also be dirty. I had that problem last summer on my K100, and it kills a lot of the electrical system as well. Again, try cycling the switch a few times.
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I cycled umpteen times with no luck.
The bike is home now so tomorrow I will look deeper into the issue and see if I can get it running again.
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The Red wire is UN-Fused direct off of the battery.
The Green wire goes from the switch to the load shed relay coil and the Kill switch.
The Grey/Blue and Grey connect to each other when the key is ON, with no connection to the Red wire.
To "hot wire" it looks to me like, Red connect to Green and then Grey connect to Grey/Blue to simulate the switch.
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With a test light or multimeter start at the battery and trace your way out from it. A blown up laminated version of the version of the wiring diagram is handy for this. You can mark off the wires tested with a white board marker or chinographic pencil.
Regards Martin.
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It was the ignition switch.
I took it all apart and gave it a very good clean and have coaxed it back to life - sort of. The lights all come on and the bike starts but the key is super sensitive, the slightest jolt and the power dies again. I will take it off again and see what else I can do but it may be it is just better to try and find a second hand one.
I found a good post for those of us with 16 v K bikes, the ignition switch is different to the K75 and K100 2v.
http://www.k100-forum.com/t2391-ignition-switch
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It was the ignition switch.
I took it all apart and gave it a very good clean and have coaxed it back to life - sort of. The lights all come on and the bike starts but the key is super sensitive, the slightest jolt and the power dies again. I will take it off again and see what else I can do but it may be it is just better to try and find a second hand one.
What have you got to lose by attempting to fix it while you wait for a new one? If you document the process and are successful, it will be a beneficial instructional supplement here, moving you up the scale toward lionization. :yes
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Laitch will he be subjected to lionization or ionization.
Regards Martin.
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Can I vote for canonization? Saint Filmcamera??
Ok I will take it apart again tomorrow and take some photos and see where I get.
BTW does anyone know where I might get some of those tiny wee little springs that are inside the switch?? A car parts store did not have that small nor did a hardware shop, I am thinking maybe a Radio Shack or something?
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BTW does anyone know where I might get some of those tiny wee little springs that are inside the switch?? I am thinking maybe a Radio Shack or something?
I doubt they are the problem. Just don't let them jump the fence. Camera repair, clock/watch repair, gunsmith, dronemaker, spring hoarder, junked switches wherever they congregate.
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BTW does anyone know where I might get some of those tiny wee little springs that are inside the switch?
I just about always look at McMaster Carr when I need some kind of piece of hardware that's hard to find.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=19stza6
The problem is you may have to buy a lot more then you want. But the price is sometimes less then getting the OEM part anyway.
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Thanks [emoji4] I have already bookmarked that site for future use, it looks great. I am going to try and find something local for now - being in Costa Rica it is ten days to two weeks to get parts etc here.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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The spring from a ballpoint pen?
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+1 Bill I remember pulling apart four different pens to find the right diameter spring. :hehehe
Regards Martin.
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The springs in bic disposable lighters work in the light switch's . Maybe?
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Gazman, you sir, are a genius. What a brilliant idea and the spring is an exact match to the ones in the ignition switch. I used some and now the switch is like new again. I will post pictures etc in a new thread in the hope it might be added to the lieberry to help other 16v uses in the future.
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I just about always look at McMaster Carr when I need some kind of piece of hardware that's hard to find.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=19stza6 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=19stza6)
The problem is you may have to buy a lot more then you want. But the price is sometimes less then getting the OEM part anyway.
Ditto on that. McMaster Carr has an amazing inventory of little bits of hardware.
Damn, Wish I had seen this earlier. I just hot wired my ignition earlier this year to eliminate the ignition as the culprit from poor running issues. It is pretty easy to figure out how to hot wire it. I think there are only five wires in the harness connection. You have to run the wires out from the harness connector so can put your gas tank back on, and turn the ignition on remotely with the wires. Guess I should have documented it. At any rate, seems that you have got it isolated to the ignition switch if the key is that sensitive..................?????
OOPS....................two days late and $3 dollars short.......................my usual MO!
NOTE TO SELF: READ THE WHOLE THREAD BEFORE YOU POST! :nono
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Here is my write up on the whole process of cleaning the ignition switch.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10504.0.html
It is my first attempt at this kind of thing so sorry if it sucks!