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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: jsngrimm on October 08, 2017, 04:02:03 AM
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I recently picked up my first flying brick! a 1987 K100RS in need of work and fairings are off, but running and driving pretty good :bmwsmile I have plenty of experience wrenching on a few bikes I have but this is the first BMW and first euro bike in general. Going pretty well so far but I had a few questions I couldn't seem to find solid answers to:
1) I am probably going to just completely remove the side stand, the bit that you catch with your foot to put it down has broken off, and the insane lean angle on it worries me a bit (has a Works Racer aftermarket shock that is probably longer than the original), how do I got about removing the clutch lever auto retraction cable/mechanism?
2) The coolant level sight tube on the expansion tank is very dirty and needs replaced, do I have to drain the cooling system to replace it, or can I just siphon out the expansion tank and re fill it? And does the tubing have to be a specific kind like the actual BMW part, or can any clear tubing be used?
3) I want to get a clutch spline lube done, and while it is something I could tackle myself I am thinking about just letting the professionals take care of this one, a local shop that has experience with K bikes quoted me $1000 + parts for a clutch spline lube? :mbird I know it is quite involved because a lot of the bike has to come apart, but that seems crazy high to me, is that a reasonable number if I were to have a shop do this for me?
Thanks for any help, I'm really liking the K100 so far and it should be an interesting project!
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Greetings...
#1, can't help you with that one. I've never had one.
#2, yes just siphon it empty and clean it. No special bmw part for the tubing.
#3, Wow, that sounds like a "they don't want to mess with it" price to me. It can seem intimidating the 1st time but if you can wrench on other bikes, this one is no different. It just amounts to splitting the transmission from the intermediate housing.
There are plenty of posts here already(search function is your friend) about how to do it, and what all to look at while you have it apart..... Most importantly, the rear drive shaft splines at the final drive need checked and lubed at the very least, then get yourself some throttle whacking yee haw time in yet this fall to help determine if you really need to do the clutch splines. Then they can be a winter project if you so desire.
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1) I am probably going to just completely remove the side stand, the bit that you catch with your foot to put it down has broken off, and the insane lean angle on it worries me a bit . . .
Welcome! Please post some photos of your bike.
- The lean angle is stable and makes knocking the bike over a challenge from either direction. Try it! Maybe lay a mattress next to the bike first. :giggles Dismounting, balancing the bike then raising it on the center stand without lowering it onto the side stand first might take some core strength and balance development from you. Scott_ seems to have that. It's a task that can be problematic for riders when fatigued. Weld a replacement kick-lever onto the side stand if that is all that's broken. How the kick-lever was broken might be an interesting story.
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Step 1. Locate the retraction actuator arm at the back of the transmission and specifically the square nut and threaded shaft. Manually push the retraction actuator arm towards the transmission to relieve pressure on the nut, and unscrew the nut completely from the shaft.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/270-081017095910-7391765.jpeg)
Step 2. Locate the sidestand retraction springs on the sidestand. Using a piece of 18GA wire (I use stranded picture hanging wire) as a spring hook, remove both springs from the side stand. Be careful, they are strong. This is best done with the sidestand fully retracted.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/270-081017095906-738537.jpeg)
Step 3. Locate the retraction cam mechanism on the pivot bolt for the sidestand. The top cam has a slot. Remove the cams from this pivot, which is easy now that all the spring pressure has been relieved.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/270-081017095911-7401683.jpeg)
Step 4. Remove the sidestand pivot bolt.
(http://www.motobrick.com/gallery/0/270-081017095905-7341340.jpeg)
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A sloppy stand contributes to the lean angle. A worn pivot bolt can contribute and it can be tightened up, also the fork on either side of the stand can wear and spread. This can be shimmed. Adding a hockey puck or a slice of rubber boat roller to the foot of the stand helps to get it back to a more reasonable angle. The greater footprint of the addition also helps on soft surfaces.
Due to driving on the correct side of the road the angle due to road camber lean angle in OZ can be even more alarming.
Regards Martin.
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Thanks! I would like to actually keep the side stand if possible, I'm not totally sure what I'm doing there yet, if I end up keeping it I will weld a new bit on to pull it down with and experiment with making some kind of foot for the bottom so the lean isn't so drastic. One more probably very stupid but honest question, I have replaced the front turn signals/headlight since the fairings are off (doing a naked build) and since the signals are LEDs they blink extra fast because it thinks the bulbs are burned out. Is the turn signal relay at risk of any damage if I just let them blink fast like that? I will buy some load resistors or different signals if I need to but I honestly don't mind it the way it is, just want to be sure it isn't going to mess up a probably very expensive relay
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Is the turn signal relay at risk of any damage if I just let them blink fast like that? I will buy some load resistors or different signals if I need to but I honestly don't mind it the way it is, just want to be sure it isn't going to mess up a probably very expensive relay
I don't think the cops will like it and you'll be visited by them more often than you'd probably enjoy. There is an extensive thread on the site about why LEDs do what yours are doing, and describes with photos the simple remedy for it.
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Thanks! I would like to actually keep the side stand if possible, I'm not totally sure what I'm doing there yet, if I end up keeping it I will weld a new bit on to pull it down with and experiment with making some kind of foot for the bottom so the lean isn't so drastic.
There is a soft steel bushing between the sidestand and its pivot bolt. You can replace that bushing with a new one, preferably bronze. These should be available from stores like Harbor Freight. Also, closing the gap on the forked portion of the side stand will eliminate a lot of up-down slop.
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Side stand extension post.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,8032.msg59301.html#msg59301
Regards Martin.
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I don't think the cops will like it and you'll be visited by them more often than you'd probably enjoy. There is an extensive thread on the site about why LEDs do what yours are doing, and describes with photos the simple remedy for it.
Thanks, why did they have to put the relay box under the gas tank though?? :dunno2: I read up on the flasher relay mod and that will be easy for me to do, just wish it wasn't such a pain to get at the relays.
Are turn signals required in your state? Here in Ohio motorcycles actually do not have to have them by law, I drive an old enduro with no signals from the factory all the time and have not been stopped about it
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I think it was the third time I dismounted without using the sidestand that I came to understand why so many motobricks have damage to their right sides resulting in a severe shortage of things like right side mirrors and virgin right side fairing lowers. For those of us of advanced age, the sidestand is a major part of the dismount process.
I suspect that part of the reason for the severe lean angle is to make it easier to swing a leg over the seat when the bike is on the sidestand. A somewhat begrudging acknowledgment of those owners who may be less blessed in the inseam.
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Removing the tank is easy. Make up a bit of wire with a small hook at one end and a finger loop at the other end. Remove the two fuel lines mark where they go then remove the two side covers. Using the piece of bent wire remove the two tank retaining "C" clips, lift up the back of the tank and move it to the rear and lift it off. It is a good idea to lubricate with rubber grease the two rubber grommets that the tank retaining pins go through, stops them drying out. Another inmate has attached two small cable ties to the tank "C" clips to help with removal. The bent bit of wire can also be used to remove the seat hinge pin "C" clips. I have the wire velcroed under my seat.
Regards Martin.
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I read up on the flasher relay mod and that will be easy for me to do, just wish it wasn't such a pain to get at the relays.
Are turn signals required in your state?
That's a prime example of First World pain, for sure. Stay strong! Tweet for support! :giggles
Anyway, turn signals are required here if the bike was manufactured with them. Turn signals aren't required if the bike didn't have them when new. It doesn't really matter because few drivers notice them. Loud pipes are what you really need.
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:beehive: Oh boy, here we go...
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:popcorm