Post by: whiskywaterwine on July 14, 2017, 05:22:12 PM
I parked it because of a fuel pump, electrical issue. Going to use a new alternator and battery.
The help I need is basically a check list from anyone on what I should go through in the engine.
I want to get the old gas out of it of course.....what are some good procedures and advice?
Should I use a fuel stabilizer?
I dumped all the gas out of the gas tank, but I am sure there is still fuel
in the engine and lines.
What is the best possible way of getting old fuel out?
kind regards
Post by: Laitch on July 14, 2017, 09:22:08 PM
How about moseying on over to the Welcome to Motobrick.com section, posting a photo or two of your bike, telling us what you know about the history of the bike, telling us how many miles are on it and how many miles you have put on it. Did you go into the Repair Guidance section's Master List (http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,666.0.html)? Plenty of tips there on bike maintenance—check lists, too.
Put this phrase into a Google search window. clean fuel tank site:motobrick.com What comes up should answer all your cleaning questions.
Post by: The Mighty Gryphon on July 15, 2017, 09:21:05 AM
Too late for fuel stabilizer. That stuff goes in when you put the bike away. Now you want to run some no-corn gas with Techron fuel system cleaner through the engine to get out any varnish that may have formed in the fuel system.
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 21, 2017, 05:59:12 PM
replacing 4 pin on left side (under gas tank, pic included)
my actual wires (pic) are different from my replacement color wires (pic included. bought on ebay used)
Actual Wire Colors (pic, left to right)
#1 Brown Wire/ Yellow Stripe
#2 Brown Wire/ Black Stripe
#3 Green Wire/ Yellow Stripe
#4 Brown Wire
Replacement Pin Connector Wire Colors (Pic, according to clock reference)
2 o'clock Red Wire/ White Stripe
4 o'clock Green Wire/ Brown Stripe
7 o'clock Brown Wire
10 o'clock Green Wire
Im looking for the correct color matchup if possible...........
It is important to make wires matchup correctly? what type of problems occur?
Anything I need to replace?
This is the original problem of why I parked my 85 K100rs 3 years ago
Ive replaced all fluids....cleaned out injectors..new oil, new coolant, you name it.
bike just wont fire up.....fuel pump working, brand new practically
Its turning over fine.
I figured it had to do with this connector.........wire colors I need to match up
the pin connector itself I have described (by time clock) is how it actually plugs into connector in tank.
there is a cleft in connector at 6 o'clock
man, ive put so much work into this......
ive got free bottles of wine to anyone who can help
im a sommelier
thanks
Post by: rbm on August 21, 2017, 06:39:34 PM
#1 Brown Wire/ White Stripe = 4L fuel indicator input to Pin 7 on OEM gauge
#2 Brown Wire/ Black Stripe = 7L fuel indicator input to Pin 8 on OEM gauge
#3 Green Wire/ White Stripe = Power to fuel pump
#4 Brown Wire = Ground
The replacement pin connector looks to be the Optional Alarm Connector out of the relay box. Someone clipped it off to replace the original connector that probably wore out. Anyway, to figure out the wiring is straight forward.
1. Empty the tank of gas. You will now use an ohm meter set to resistance to test the 4 pins on the tank.
2. Clip a wire with alligator clips on its ends, one end to the pump positive terminal and the other end to the black lead on the ohmmeter..
3. Pick a pin and start testing the resistance with the red lead of the ohmmeter. You're looking for a pin with 0 ohms. Three of the pins will read around 600-800 Ohms but only one will read 0.
Once found, you've identified the pump power pin, mark it.
4. Move the alligator clip from the pump positive terminal to the pump negative terminal.
5. Pick a pin from the remaining three and start testing the resistance again. You're looking for a pin with 0 ohms. Again, two of the pins will read around 600-800 Ohms but only one will read 0. Once found, you've identified the ground pin, mark it.
6. The remaining two pins are the thermistors. I can't tell you how to find the 7L sensor or 4L sensor between the other pins but you'll find out once you test.
FYI, the inside of the fuel level sender looks like this:
(http://i71.servimg.com/u/f71/11/71/56/74/fuel_s10.jpg)
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 25, 2017, 12:31:28 AM
I followed the procedure....yet some things arose.....
on the fuel pump, I hope that I had the positive and negative terminals correct....
with your procedure, finding the 0.00 line was consequential in order, so I feel I got it correct.
the thing is now, I was charging my battery overnight, and it seems to run out of power.
it is a brand new battery.
my bike didnt go to ignition. It was turning over, but no ignition.
when the battery power went out, I heard loads of clicking sounds coming from the compartment
under the gas tank . Long series of clicks from the relays I assume.
Do I need to replace relays?
also, I decided to put my trickle charger on to my battery, instead of the battery charger.
I noticed that when connected to the negative battery post, my light indicator would not go on for my
trickle charger....
So, I disconnected the negative line connected to the negative battery post, and then my light would go on....
do I do something terribly wrong here?
im scared I blew something ........
thanks
thomas.wine@gmail.com
Post by: rbm on August 25, 2017, 12:43:00 AM
The relay clicking in the relay box is probably the starter relay. Search on this forum for "starter relay welding" to understand that too low of a battery voltage could potentially damage the starter relay. Luckily you haven't done that otherwise you'd be telling us that you couldn't turn off the motorcycle after cranking for a while. Don't crank with a low battery.
You've got to follow Bert's flowchart on K100-forum to systematically check for all the things that can prevent the motorcycle from starting: http://k-bike-knowledge.000webhostapp.com/electrical/EFI/bike-wont-start-EN.htm
Also, having a good schematic to hand and knowing how to read and interpret it will help: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3UPbNZRyr1ramNaQ19DM3Z6TTQ
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 25, 2017, 01:10:29 AM
1985 K100rs
I left my battery charging overnight on a charger.
I ran the battery dead the night before, turning engine over and over.
Starter works, new fuel pump.
Bike has been sitting for nearly 3 years....i replaced all fluids.
Oil, cleaned up injectors, cleaned fuel lines with compressor, startron in 92 octane fuel.
Cleaned carburetors,
the starter was working, then it didnt, I was getting series of loud clicks coming from relays
under the gas tank......
I couldnt hear the fuel pump working either......hope I didnt malfunction by cleaning fuel lines
with air compressor?
anyhow, the clicking from the relay compartment was loud and intermittent.
then I decided to put the trickle charger on my battery, instead of battery charger.
when I connected my trickle charger to negative battery post, the light would not come on for operation.
then I disconnected the cable going to the body of bike (from negative battery post), and the light came on.
did I do something serious here?
what should I be checking into?
Is my computer blown? Do I need new relays?
help
thanks
thomas.wine@gmail.com
Post by: K75Slark on August 25, 2017, 08:08:38 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: rbm on August 25, 2017, 08:31:05 AM
- disconnect the plug to the tank and put the multimeter set on DC Volts across the pump power terminals on the harness.
- try to start the bike. The voltmeter should be 0V when you first turn on the ignition, then +10V-11V while cranking and then +12V for 1.5 seconds after you release the start button. If it doesn't exhibit this behaviour, there are problems with the ICU or its wiring.
- The pump should have two binding posts for connection to the sender inside the tank. One wire should be white and connected to the larger of the two binding posts on the pump; this is positive. The other wire should be black and connected to the smaller of the two binding posts on the pump; this is negative.
- then, validate that the same wires you found to be positive and negative on your repaired connector correspond to the pump connections I wrote above.
Only once you know for certain your homemade repairs are corect then you can start to troubleshoot the no-start condition above. Otherwise you are shooting in the dark.
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 26, 2017, 02:42:21 PM
or battery requirements?
thanks
Post by: rbm on August 26, 2017, 02:53:18 PM
OEM Battery (Yuasa 53030)
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 325
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 20
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: N/A
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 186 x 130 x 171
- Weight (kg): 7.7
Suitable Aftermarket Replacements
Deka ETX16L
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 325
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 19
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: N/A
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 175 x 100 x 155
- Weight (kg): 7.7
Yuasa GYZ20HL
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 320
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 20
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: N/A
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 175 x 87 x 155
- Weight (kg): 7
Odyssey PC680-P
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 170
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 16
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: 24
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 181.5 x 76.3 x 167.8
- Weight (kg): 7
Yuasa YTX20HL-BS
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 310
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 18
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: ??
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 175 x 87 x 155
- Weight (kg): 7
Yuasa YTX20L
- Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 270
- 20Hr Nominal Capacity (Ah): 18
- Reserve Capacity Minutes: ??
- Metric Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 175 x 87 x 155
- Weight (kg): 7
Post by: johnny on August 26, 2017, 03:33:46 PM
ext20l... aka the 20lb powersports battery... make sure of your terminal orientation and physical size...
ext20l... (https://www.google.com/search?q=ext20l+powersport+battery&oq=ext20l+powersport+battery&gs_l=psy-ab.12...15002.17186.0.18703.2.2.0.0.0.0.148.243.1j1.2.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0.UcIfYMSC67Y)
20lb... (https://www.google.com/search?q=20l+agm+powersport+battery&oq=20l+agm+powersport+battery&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.0.71433.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0.KyNTH7D5fB0=)
this is what is in my rs eleven hundert... 310cca... 87 bucks... (https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/362985-duration-agm-powersport-battery.html)
duration20pounder.jpg (41.71 kB . 576x576 - viewed 527 times)ride dangerously...
j o
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 28, 2017, 03:35:37 PM
what if i were to get a battery with CCA: 420 & 22 (Ah) rating......would this be bad in any way?
Beyond searching for the *suitable recommended batteries (i.e. Yuasa GYZ20hl, Deka ETX16l, etc)
should I be searching for specs that match up to the OEM specs?
I noticed some batteries (i.e. Odyssey PC680-p) have a CCA rating of only 170.
Why is this?
How about GEL batteries......whats up with them? Are they suitable for motobricks?
thanks
thomas.wine@gmail.com
Post by: rbm on August 28, 2017, 03:46:05 PM
- correct terminal orientation - positive on the left, ground on the right side, terminals facing forward.
- correct size, especially height to prevent shorting against parts of the frame, etc. Absolute Maximum 168mm.
- minimum Ah rating depending on how many electrical accessories you plan to have, lighting, etc. 16Ah is about minimum.
Gel batteries will work but they are not necessarily deep discharge type, like AGM.
Post by: whiskywaterwine on August 28, 2017, 04:34:45 PM
check out this battery....and tell me what you think y'all.
https://www.apexbattery.com/apex-battery-apx12220-12-volt-22ah-battery.html
$32.99
(https://www.apexbattery.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/thumbnail/600x/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/a/p/apx12220_1.jpg)
Post by: rbm on August 28, 2017, 05:04:42 PM
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m3I7ILUWfl1DotIqUJb83hcBBZKy92vxX4u4igfIObCnIaDmRR_bH0imsEqkBpTPBaahTaNjcv3la4yjLo1Z3yI0TI2MmqTv0gJr5B7CtT5p9FEhHLL-qn_8kE_nWmg27do_tl1vEEyZ7XnWecNZj1xRAeEnkikJy5TII0rc2O9yV4tFvINcaKCUBUrPvYRGrNh5WoyiXNMgsjx1vKV9FL4KQIAXw9MZXrPqH8NdodmGMkMSMdGJiFJbchqAFKJvmsM6JoLFk15Es7gHKQybm5Zw7teR29VJc9iz13CQyoEOI0EV0zIVi76GzwZ1UX8ii8oEErrIdssMaMJMkelPBwfwOQhYU_1uuDpJ-_4fchU6bd7HQy8mYeeDscaSGYSwI1dQKsknHdCt516Y_Wp87yr60pRFMxwEfcBxLKw4mLgwy47BrPK6rSL1bNucNH4yxyTICKWo5PPkw1FZM9QD5zOO6M9Ry3EFzok6Rlsm8FqeRIub8aTadhvyvY_POzZFELEfZPWW9ZXo941wKb41tya1fxwJslqXTqLjQl50GUPvItQxlgrZXgk1W0s1kJNrF64b3P3arq_O9wBH7ZhmKmG90nRB1av597vdrjJeERBkXfQ8oB3Z=w194-h71-no)
You'd have to do some cabling surgery to make this battery fit. Besides, looking at those terminals, the old saying "you get what you pay for" really applies here. Check the beef on an Odyssey, Deka or Yuasa for comparison.
Post by: johnny on August 28, 2017, 05:50:12 PM
this is the proper orentation...
duration20pounder.jpg (41.62 kB . 576x576 - viewed 441 times)i gave you two search links above... use them if you want a battery...
and of course you can get one here for about $150... they only ship to usa... not the nation of texas...
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/westco12v30.html
j o
Post by: Martin on August 28, 2017, 05:56:01 PM
Regards Martin.
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Post by: stokester on August 29, 2017, 09:22:48 PM
How did you connect the wires? Butt splices? Soldered connections?
I comment because I see so many "twist & tape" fixes in my work that will eventually come back to bite. Be sure you connect it properly and use shrink tubing to insulate, the tape will eventually work its way loose.