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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: thetailwind on August 02, 2017, 09:19:36 PM
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Hello, I have an ABS Fault that I cannot clear. [/size]I have placed an LED in the middle pin of the 3 pin diagnostic clip and grounded the other lead. I got the following code:S= SolidB= BlinkS-B-B-B-B-B-B-S-B-B-B-B-B-B-S (Repeat)Do you include the last illumination in the sequence as a count? Ultimately, do I have a code 6 or 7?
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^Not sure what happened there^
Hello, I have an ABS Fault that I cannot clear.
I have placed an LED in the middle pin of the 3 pin diagnostic clip and grounded the other lead.
I got the following code:
S= Solid
B= Blink
S-B-B-B-B-B-B-S-B-B-B-B-B-B-S (Repeat)
Do you include the last illumination in the sequence as a count? Ultimately, do I have a code 6 or 7?
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I tried using an LED test light and found a DMM much easier.
My ABS I brain was repaired by Tosi -> http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com <- after I was confident that it was the problem using the IBMWR info along with what Tosi has on his site.
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I tried using an LED test light and found a DMM much easier.
My ABS I brain was repaired by Tosi -> http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com (http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com) <- after I was confident that it was the problem using the IBMWR info along with what Tosi has on his site.
Can you tell me your technique? The only thing I was able to make out from the DMM was the solids, but not the blinks.
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^Not sure what happened there^
You probably did a cut and paste operation into the editor. It converted your text into 2 point font.
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led's should only be used with an adequate resistor in the circuit.
analog multimeter much better.
pin should have constant 10v. count the times the voltage drops.
or if using an regular light bulb, count the "dim" points.
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analog multimeter much better.
Absolutely correct, I now remember trying to use the DMM and reverting to an analog meter to count.
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You probably did a cut and paste operation into the editor. It converted your text into 2 point font.
If this happens again, use the button in the far right (a set of red square brackets around a cursor; called Toggle View). When you press it, that will show you all the markup tags. You will see a bunch of size tags. Get rid of them and re-post.
Thanks, that's exactly what happend. Thanks for the tip.
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led's should only be used with an adequate resistor in the circuit.
analog multimeter much better.
pin should have constant 10v. count the times the voltage drops.
or if using an regular light bulb, count the "dim" points.
I am not very good with circuitry. I put the LED on with a resistor and it was significantly dimmer than I know it can be. I removed the resistor and it got a little brighter but the blink patter remained the same.
Initially I inserted the resistor lead into the middle pin on the diagnostic plug. I then attached the LED to the other side of the resistor. Using the other lead of the LED, I grounded it to the motor.
According to http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/, it states
"There are a lot of wrong info[/size] about how to connect diagnostic LED to the diagnostic plug pin#2.[/color][/size]The wrong info says, connect LED anode (or plus) to diagnostic pin#2 and LED negative to ground, [/color][/size]this is wrong.[/color][/size]Correct one is, LED anode (or plus) goes to Battery positive(+) and LED negative goes to diagnostic pin#2.
You need to put at least 1 kilo ohm resistor in series to protect LED."
This is different from every other guide I read. Which is correct?
[/color]
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According to http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ (http://bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/), it states
"There are a lot of wrong info about how to connect diagnostic LED to the diagnostic plug pin#2.The wrong info says, connect LED anode (or plus) to diagnostic pin#2 and LED negative to ground, this is wrong.Correct one is, LED anode (or plus) goes to Battery positive(+) and LED negative goes to diagnostic pin#2.
You need to put at least 1 kilo ohm resistor in series to protect LED."
This is different from every other guide I read. Which is correct?
I don't have a dog in this hunt but Tosi—the originator of the quote you have cited—is an ABS specialist with an excellent reputation so I'd tend to follow his lead if I had an ABS challenge to face.
Why don't you supply links to the sources you have consulted that you believe disagree with Tosi. That could be instructive also.
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greetings...
abs two... i have used this method to getts the codes and make repairs...
i think folks have their led leads reversed... as you know... they only work with proper polarity...
its clearing the codes you just have to stick with it...
donts let it defeat you...
"It's recommended that you use a 12V LED so you don't have to mess with resistors. Ground the negative lead for the LED and stick a wire from the positive lead of the LED into the center hole of the diagnostic plug. Turn the bike on. If there are no ABS error codes stored then the LED should remain solidly lit. If there is an error code then the error code is determined by counting the number of times that the LED flashes off. If you don't get it the first time then don't worry. The LED will go solid for a little while and then repeat the error code and keep cycling.
abouts reset...i posted this... true butts whack...
commence to resetting...
i tried every weekend for 6 months to reset the bug... then one sunday i decided defeat was looming on the horizon and i just couldnt take it anymore...
so i kept going... for hours.... at 300 i was ready to accept defeat... butts i said to myself just 1 more time and im done... it took... been no looking back since...
ride dangerously..
more later...
j o
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Regarding the error reading, it is the number of voltage drops the number to count, not the ups !. I did mine with a Fluke meter, and every time the voltage bar went down counted as one DIP. Total in my case: 7.
Tosi-san repaired it and it is ok now. Very happy with the service.