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TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Simplemind on August 02, 2017, 01:32:10 PM
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A day of frustration. Fitted new clutch to 88 k100LT. All plates fitted and centred. Gearbox re-fitted but clutch feels sloppy and wont disengage the drive when pulled in. Gearbox out again, pushrod arm checked and is straight and operates with tension in the spring when the gearbox is out. When I put it back in the clutch is ineffective. It worked ok with the old clutch so it's clearly something I've done/disturbed. What should have been a routine job is turning into a right pain. Anyone had similar problems /any suggestions?
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A day of frustration. Fitted new clutch to 88 k100LT. All plates fitted and centred. Gearbox re-fitted but clutch feels sloppy and wont disengage the drive when pulled in. Gearbox out again, pushrod arm checked and is straight and operates with tension in the spring when the gearbox is out. When I put it back in the clutch is ineffective. It worked ok with the old clutch so it's clearly something I've done/disturbed. What should have been a routine job is turning into a right pain. Anyone had similar problems /any suggestions?
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A day of frustration. Fitted new clutch to 88 k100LT. All plates fitted and centred. Gearbox re-fitted but clutch feels sloppy and wont disengage the drive when pulled in. Gearbox out again, pushrod arm checked and is straight and operates with tension in the spring when the gearbox is out. When I put it back in the clutch is ineffective. It worked ok with the old clutch so it's clearly something I've done/disturbed. What should have been a routine job is turning into a right pain. Anyone had similar problems /any suggestions?
Are you sure that the pressure plate is installed correctly.
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I've had the clutch in and out 4 times now. I marked up the plate positions so it fits in the same way.
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Is it possible the Diaphragm spring is reversed?
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If I'd had my clutch out 4 times I'd probably be dangerous to be around...probably won't help much but I'll go ahead and toss out a couple ideas.
First, assuming the clutch pack is in the right way, there isn't much that can go wrong there. I'd be looking at the rest of the clutch activation mechanism. The puck at the rear end was a two-piece unit on earlier K-Bikes before they went to a one-piece -- so maybe you might want to take a look at that and make sure that' sin stalled properly. Besides that, there's the clutch cable and the adjustment issue. If it's not adjusted properly the clutch could easily be in the overly sloppy or overly tight range, especially after a clutch job and/or dinking with the cable. Routing of the cable through the bikes innards as also been known to cause issues. Did you reuse the clutch cable or get a new one, and did you follow the adjustment procedure to make sure you have the right free play at the lever? You didn't mention that in your original post...
One more thing -- if you've done multiple installations on the transmission and had the pushrod in and out several times, you may have put some wear on your clutch pushrod seal (or as the Germans call it, the infamous stupid 'pig'. You should think about replacing that while you're in the middle of the current nightmare, or else you might have another one not too far down the road. If that seal leaks, a greased friction disk won't be far behind -- it's basically the only thing keeping the gear oil out the the bell housing...
Good luck...I'd be suspicious of the peripherals more than the clutch itself at this point.