MOTOBRICK.COM
TECHNICAL MOTOBRICK WRENCHING In Remembrance of Inge K. => The Motobrick Workshop => Topic started by: Doodaadog on June 27, 2017, 08:42:31 AM
-
Hello compardres...
Story so far...bought non runner (of 8 years) K1100 92....trying to resurrect it...
Going through fuel systen....cleaned tank...new filter and hoses.....pump removed...replaced rubber mount/anti vibe as mine had turned to gooey mess.
Cleaned tank and injectors.and rail.....
Tested 'loose' pump with 12v and it spins nicely
Once connected back up ...all my hopes were dashed.......the pump does not 'prime' when I crank
Checked current to 4 pin connector on loom...seems to have voltage
Reconnect + and - to pump....seems to be no voltage to yellow+ terminal....? The yellow wire seems to have no continuity from yellow on connector to yellow on pump?....bizarrly all the other pins on connector do?
Check earthing of black wire on pump and it has continuity to earth of bike...
Have not tried it with fuel...not sure if that makes any difference?
Hope what I have written makes some sense?
regards Greg
-
Try narrowing the yellow female end in the 4 pin connector so the connection to the male plug is tighter. If you have power on the yellow wire pin in the connector and the pump works, that's all it could be.
-
Do you have voltage/continuity up to the four pin connector, then lose it from there to the pump? Or does the connection fail in front of the 4 pin? If yes, try switching your pump relay with another relay and see if that works?
-
Reconnect + and - to pump....seems to be no voltage to yellow+ terminal....? The yellow wire seems to have no continuity from yellow on connector to yellow on pump?....bizarrly all the other pins on connector do?
Clarify this part a little...
No continuity between yellow (pump+) ring terminal TO yellow pin in 4 pin connector?? (This is a straight wire connection - there are no other connectors between these 2 points to troubleshoot.)
"all the other pins do" ??
All the other pins have continuity TO the yellow ring terminal (pump+)???
or
All the other pins have continuity TO the other ends of each wire inside the tank?? (Ground / Fuel sender / Fuel level switch)
Sounds like the wire is broken and shorted at the point where it comes through the fuel sender plate, which should have blown the 7.5 amp fuse (2nd from the bottom) for the fuel pump. The same thing that turned your rubber to goo, hardens the insulation on the wiring inside the tank, and can easily crack once you move it around a few times.
-
Check out my thread on the K100-forum - Messing with the In-tank Fuel Sender (http://www.k100-forum.com/t9265-messing-with-the-in-tank-fuel-sender).
There is no color continuity between the wires outside the tank and wires inside the tank, unfortunately. So, there should not be continuity between yellows. You should check the following:
- continuity between brown on the tank connector and the tank itself and also to the small ring terminal on the black wire that goes to the pump
- continuity between Green/White on the tank connector and the Large ring terminal on the yellow wire that goes to the pump
- resistance between the yellow wire on the tank connector and Brown wire on the same connector. This resistance should vary as the fuel float arm is raised and lowered
- connectivity between the White wire on the tank connector and Brown wire on the same connector. This connectty should make and break as the float arm is raised and lowered.
Check the following:
1. disconnect the tank from the harness.
2. Using clip leads, connect a voltmeter between the Green/White wire on the harness connector and ground on the bike.
3. Turn on the ignition. You should not measure any voltage
4. press the start button. The voltage should jump to about 11V
5. release the start button, and monitor the voltmeter. The instant you release, the voltage should jump from 11V to 12.4V or so, then 1.5 seconds later, drop to 0 volts.
If this test succeeds, then you have verified that the FI circuit is working. You can therefore eliminate that as a variable and concentrate on the tank internals as your problem area.
Most likely, you have a broken connection within the fuel sender that needs repair. Strangely enough, if so, this will be the second case of such that I have heard about this year.
-
Wow.....thank you all for the help...lots for me to try...