It's good to know I'm not the only one who has WTF moments.

Of course you aren't; we even have an emoji here for the occasion. 

It's good to know I'm not the only one who has WTF moments.

When I found out that both coils on my brick were open circuit, I said to myself "WTF, but the bike starts and runs" So I said it again, I said "Daveson, what the fuck"

It was very difficult to start, but when warm it would start easy and run well.

Here's my guess, which may apply in your case as well. I guess there was a crack somewhere along the circuit. Depending on the location of the crack, sometimes the crack gets larger when warm, sometimes it gets smaller. The electricity can jump the gap, as it does at the spark plug. The Hall sensor problem could be opposite to the coil problem I had, therefore when it gets warm, the gap gets bigger, and it struggles to cope. I think the situation with my coils was very unusual, because every other time I've heard about coil problems, they failed when they got warm.

Maybe it's just the hall sensor plug. I would repeat the test on both sides of the plug. If the test result is good on the input side of the plug, then you need a new plug, because the test result was a fail on the output side.

Too early to start the party.

I was checking my pad thickness for the first time and realized I could not get the front pin out to check the rear pad thickness as it hits the rear shock.  Does the caliper need to be removed to change the pads or I’m doing something wrong?  Clunker stated to just remove pins. 

92 K75RT abs.

FWIW: This year, I've started migrating the Bridgestone BT46 for all of my bikes... I recently installed one on the rear of the K75 paired with a Bridgestone S11 that I installed on the front in 2022.  They are 'relatively' inexpensive and handle/grip well.  I can't speak to wear at the moment, but I was getting tired of the Avon Roadriders wearing quickly on the rear.